spoilt_rs

I have just finished making modifications to my saph to make it stage 3. I have it running, but when i blip the throttle, i sometimes hear a sound like a mechanical wrattle. It is coming from around the turbo area, but i have removed the filter hose to check for play in the shaft, but it seems ok. There is minimal radial play, and no axial play at all. Is it possible for the turbo bearings to have failed, but still have very minimal play? Also, the amal valve is clicking when the revs increase, could this be faulty also?

The chip is an MSD, running an L8 bought secondhand, the turbo a t34 again bought secondhand.

Any help much appreciated, cheers.

105epwr

do you no the history of the turbo?did you prime it etc?

spoilt_rs

i dont know the history no, was bought of a member on here, and was assured it was running ok, and barely stressed at all on a stage 1 saph if i remember correctly. When i check the shaft play it feels good.
It was primed when fitted, checked the oil flow from the turbo feed, seemed fine, then cranked the engine over for a while without coil connected to prime. The noise seems more apparent when revved quite high, and then throttle released, on overrun. Also, rattles loud when the engine turned off. Is there any other part that could cause this noise? the followers were also replaced, and still not convined they have bedded in yet, the car has only been run on the driveway since.

Stakis

iTrader: (1)

i believe this is detonation, so you must go to the nearest tuner who have WBO, fuel pressure gauge and can correct the software you got.

Hope this helps.

tabetha

The amal valve should not be clicking, the ecu is teling it to though so look at that ecu/chip.
The rattle is not going to be turbo play, this would be a whine if gone far enough play wise to rattle it would have self destructed by now and eaten itself then gone in the engine.
Look at the turbo damper, and make sure the spring/bolt assmebly is not rattling as these often do when a bit loose, or some people forget to tighten the damper to head bolt!
tabetha

spoilt_rs

cheers for the help guys! from that i can gather the turbo should be fine, so thats a hugh releif. I dont suppose a very low battery could cause the amal valve clicking could it? reason i ask this is because im sure it wasnt doing it before yesterday, and i had to jump the car to get it started this time, and then removed the jump leads straight after, the interior light was very dim so very low power. I will check the turbo damper, i think i will remove it temporarily, just to run it and minimise the possibility of that causing the noise.
With regard to the detonation issue, if it is this i dont have this equipment at hand, im trying to get the fuelling close, then will have the pressure set when i get the cars mot, as i know the guy who will be doing it has a deasent gauge.

Stakis

iTrader: (1)

you can throw amal valve away. connect directly the hose from turbo to wastegate

spoilt_rs

if i remove the amal valve, i assume the chip will no longer control the boost, and i will have to set up on the rod yes? not really in a position to do this, not until i fit a boost gauge anyways..

Stakis

iTrader: (1)

the boost gauge is a must! maybe you run 2bar of pressure and the fueling is wrong, you get detonation and soon will have to rebuild your engine..

tabetha

Don't under any circumstances throw away your amal valve, doing it the bodgy way can have dire consequences, and on yours not needed to junk this piece of kit, keep the amal.
If you suspect the alternator, just take off the fan belts then run it to see if the noise is gone, you will be fine to do this for a minute or two, even on a hot engine(as no water pump running).
tabetha

spoilt_rs

have now diagnosed the fault, it was the wastegate penny rattling away due to actuator not being set correctly!

The amal valve stopped clicking once i had a newly charged battery on there, so everything seems good atm

Cheers for the help guys,

plus i had no plans to remove the amal valve, well not until i replace it with a greddy one anyways.

with regard to the boost gauge, i now have a racetech on order.

dom123

iTrader: (1)

good news!!! now hurry up and mot the bloody thing i want a brawl!!!

Stakis

iTrader: (1)

why you say to leave amal valve? i heard they stop working on high boost? why it is needed? I don't any powerful turbo car with such devices inline. Please explain. And what to do for the amal valve that could work on high boost pressure?

dom123

iTrader: (1)

i think its a case off having it jeted for higher boost... jtechsaph will know i read a post he did ages ago about this, i think he had it done on his old engine...

spoilt_rs

nearly there dom nearly there.

The reason i have chosen to leave it on is because i want the chip to control the boost, this map would have been created with the amal valve in use, so i will leave it that way. I'm sure it will be upto producing the 350bhp mark im hoping for.

Cheers.

tabetha

The std amal valve contains a small plug type bit that has a tiny hole in it, in the stub that returns to the airbox, it is whitish in colour, this can cause problems when running higher boost, insert a wood screw into it, use pliers and pull out job done.
tabetha

Stakis

iTrader: (1)

thanks tabetha

How to connect everything if I want to use electronic boost controler?