blueskies85

Girlfriend bought me a toad ai606 alarm to keep me busy for a few days and I can well and truly say i dont know where to start.
I have read through the installation guide printed off the net and have labelled all the relevant wires accordingly, so i dont have to keep looking at the guide and to also give me an idea of how the alarm works.
Well i dont know where to start guys, I have been in there with a multimeter sorting the open door and close door circuits and think i need one wire on the microswitch and one on the light switch when door is open.
I sure on the obvious like, +12v and earth points but as for the rest its a mystery.
Have worked out the door locking system too I think, well i am going to connect one wire to door open and one to door closed but i dont know where the central locking door relay is so am a little stuck there.
Then we come to the immob system, need a live while cranking and am going to use the starter motor for that i think, then a few others. Toad have supplied a 4 branch connector plug for the immob system and was wondering which socket i plug each out put into.

If anyone can give me a hand on this Id be most appreciative, the sooner i get the alarm installed the better

iansoutham

Door circuit is EITHER positive or negative. Green for negative, yellow for positive. Depends where you take your feed from. Also, pickup point depends on whether you have a lights-on buzzer or not as the drivers door will be isolated to that circuit. Best place would be A-post.

Central-locking: what car? Some are positive-locking, some are negative-locking. Makes a difference.

Immobiliser wires. Square plug with 4 black wires on it. Two wires have a blue band @ the end, 2 have a white band. Blue band normally goes to starter circuit. White band goes to an ignition-sensed circuit. Do not tape the individual circuits together (blue to blue, white to white) as a thief will see where each one goes easier. Loom them into the main loom as a bundle.

If your one has an oblong white plug @ the end where the connections go to the car, you can cut the plug off as that is designed to work with different Toad systems, i.e. upgrade ones.

If you get into trouble, pm me.

tabetha

ai606 immobilisers wires are just two loops of wire which are cut to form then four ends, this is merelt inserted into a circuit after you cut the wire to the circuit, I would suggest main feed to ignition and starter feed from ignition.
Do NOT under any circumstances mix up the loops with each other, maybe just lable till you have done these.
As said the central locking will be neg or pos on fords, all you need to do is probe each wire coming from either front door looking for a short burst of current, use a test light NOT a multimetre, as this will be a lot easier to see, if you don't find a trigger looking for pos do the same looking for a neg, find which wire triggers a pulse on lock and which one on unlock.
As for door switch just be sure there is no diode between connection point and door switch, as said above.
NB, I would for safety sake replace all the door switches for new ones, about Ł3 each from ford, most of the ai606 are sent out with autolock enabled, if the door switch is a bit grotty, and it has not sensed door opening it will autolock, so if you are outside the car at the time!!, however if started with door open it will not autolock.
The alarm will not be in BEEP mode when arming/disarming but can be enabled easy enough, but even on it's lowest of three settings(volume) it is still very loud.
tabetha

blueskies85

lovely job and thanks for the instructions specific to ford Tabetha!

iansoutham

I would be a little more wary about just using a test light. Firstly, a test light can "backfeed" a lot easier than a multi-meter.

Secondly, a test light will show (+) or (-) depending on the input polarity. It will NOT show you what the actual voltage or amperage is. You could end up putting 12V and whatever amperage through something that only needs to see 500mA. Result = not work afterwards.

blueskies85

I have got a multimeter, i dont use test lights as i dont have one.

tabetha

Do it anyway you want, I am just saying from 25 years experience it is a shed load easier to see a flash than a reading that is so quick that it won't even register on the test metre, the test lights are only a few watts and never damaged anything yet that I have fitted cat 1 alarms to, but your choice.
tabetha

Aaroncast

wont be recognised by insurance unless installed by approved fitter/certificate needed!!!!!!!!

Phil2002

iTrader: (3)

what car you got?

blueskies85

escort s2 rs turbo mate, im selling my grey one and have bought a mint white one. Anyone got any instructions specific to the car? that would be mega handy... i know people say that this is an easy installation but i am honestly not finding it so... im colour blind with grey, green and some reds so its a pain in the arse lol.

Phil2002

iTrader: (3)

Door locking can be found behind the drivers side speaker on a red plug the locking wires are yellow and white not sure which is which but they are neg controlled. door trigger from drivers side door pin(and is linked to to the passenger side) wire is brown/red boot wire is brown/white can be found at the boot light. indicators can be got from a number of places back of the indicator stalk they are black/green and black/white main ignition feed from the back of the barrel is a heavy black and the starter feed is black blue. If you take the clock set out you can get to the ignition barrel loom and cut out a good 10" of loom for you immobiliser cuts. there is also a heavy red ther which will be suitable for your main supply under the drivers side sill is a black/red this is the fuel pump wire which you can use as another point of immobilisation.

I'm a VSIB/MESF approved installation technicaian so if you need any tips PM me.

Cheers,
Phil

Phil2002

iTrader: (3)

Just to add using a test light on your car will cause you no problems.

Test lights and power probes will only cause you a problem on cars with CAN bus and other data networks on them.

cheers,
Phil

blueskies85

lovely job mate i appreciate that help and ill print them instructions off. Just one question about the immobilisation section. When i cut the wires on the car where do i put the other end of the wires of the car that have been cut and does it matter which section i put them in the alarm block? I mean they are all black and they go into a terminal of 4, does it matter which immob wire goes to where? Let me explain a little more; I cut the relevant wires on my barrel, i put one end in the alarm block, but where does the other end of the car side go? hope this is understandable lol... cheers!

blueskies85

oh in fact that goes for all the wires... do they just go into the alarm and not get connected to the other end of the wire or do the alarm ones get bridged into the system... like the door locking etc.

Phil2002

iTrader: (3)

indicators, door triggers and locking wires will just be patched in to ther car wires just strip back a small section of the car wire strip the end off the alarm wire and wrap it around the car wire solder it together and insulate it using balck electrical tape or self amalgamating tape.

The immobilser cuts on the alram should be in pairs (two blue and two white i think)
so cut the ignition wire and put one wire from one pair to one side of the cut wire and the other one of the pair to the other end of the cut wire. so the two blues will be on the ignition wire and the two whites on the other immobilisation cut (starter or fuel).

Phil2002

iTrader: (3)

blueskies85

lovely job mate, thank you very much... ill get cracking with that next week! you are a star mate... i feel confident i can get on with the alarm now!

Phil2002

iTrader: (3)

No probs good luck.

blueskies85

cheers mate!