which clutch to go for with stage 3 yb
28-09-2008, 05:41 PM
#1
which clutch to go for with stage 3 yb
evening all just got back from taking my stage 3 3dr for spirited drive and have experienced some clutch slip,to be honest i thought i would be in need of a new clutch for a while now.
thing is i`m after advice as to which clutch to go for (had been told standard will handle quite a lot of power but dont want to fit a new one in couple of thousand miles) bearing in mind i have a t34 and greys to fit over the winter along with closed loop etc.
any advise on what to get where to get and who to get from will be greatly appreciated folks
cheeRS daz
thing is i`m after advice as to which clutch to go for (had been told standard will handle quite a lot of power but dont want to fit a new one in couple of thousand miles) bearing in mind i have a t34 and greys to fit over the winter along with closed loop etc.
any advise on what to get where to get and who to get from will be greatly appreciated folks
cheeRS daz
28-09-2008, 05:45 PM
#2
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
evening all just got back from taking my stage 3 3dr for spirited drive and have experienced some clutch slip,to be honest i thought i would be in need of a new clutch for a while now.
thing is i`m after advice as to which clutch to go for (had been told standard will handle quite a lot of power but dont want to fit a new one in couple of thousand miles) bearing in mind i have a t34 and greys to fit over the winter along with closed loop etc.
any advise on what to get where to get and who to get from will be greatly appreciated folks
cheeRS daz
thing is i`m after advice as to which clutch to go for (had been told standard will handle quite a lot of power but dont want to fit a new one in couple of thousand miles) bearing in mind i have a t34 and greys to fit over the winter along with closed loop etc.
any advise on what to get where to get and who to get from will be greatly appreciated folks
cheeRS daz
28-09-2008, 07:14 PM
#5
who do you suggest near me to map it,not bought lambda sensor or chip yet just l8 and 4x4 tps
was under the impression when running this state of tune closed loop etc will help my emmissions for mot time and mpg
Last edited by Cragrat; 28-09-2008 at 07:47 PM.
29-09-2008, 06:39 AM
#7
20K+ Super Poster.
I could tell you of people who have this and don't even get through emisssions, but they want to remain anon, that is thier choice and I have to respect it.
You will get better economy and emissions with a decent map session, but of course it has to be someone who can map the system you have.
I don't use the oe system,(as not a fan), but would personally trot over to NMS if it were my money.
I get when driving easy 350+ to a tank from my 2wd cossie, with 150,000+ miles on it, and it does regular dyno sessions all day long some days, 4 hours last monday for example.
Idle co is less than 1% and PERFECT as the igntion alters to suit and keep the idle stable, I have the capability to run CL and have the gear all wired up, it is ONLY a press of a keyboard button to do it, which I can do from my laptop in 5 minutes, but I don't, need to.
Depending on target afr set it can limit power and limit mpg, proper setting up/mapping will give you the best of both worlds.
The car can only be as good as it's components allow it, one of the reason I changed my ecu, you CAN get excellent results with the oe ecu, but you can also get more features, use from a aftermarket one, I have my fave, and he is about 1/4 mile away.
The resason I chose my ecu maker was because of that he makes them, he designed it too, so you get to speak to the people who know it better than anyone else.
Another point was future safeguard whenoe sensors are hard to get, I canuse any and calibrate myself simply free and easily.
tabetha
You will get better economy and emissions with a decent map session, but of course it has to be someone who can map the system you have.
I don't use the oe system,(as not a fan), but would personally trot over to NMS if it were my money.
I get when driving easy 350+ to a tank from my 2wd cossie, with 150,000+ miles on it, and it does regular dyno sessions all day long some days, 4 hours last monday for example.
Idle co is less than 1% and PERFECT as the igntion alters to suit and keep the idle stable, I have the capability to run CL and have the gear all wired up, it is ONLY a press of a keyboard button to do it, which I can do from my laptop in 5 minutes, but I don't, need to.
Depending on target afr set it can limit power and limit mpg, proper setting up/mapping will give you the best of both worlds.
The car can only be as good as it's components allow it, one of the reason I changed my ecu, you CAN get excellent results with the oe ecu, but you can also get more features, use from a aftermarket one, I have my fave, and he is about 1/4 mile away.
The resason I chose my ecu maker was because of that he makes them, he designed it too, so you get to speak to the people who know it better than anyone else.
Another point was future safeguard whenoe sensors are hard to get, I canuse any and calibrate myself simply free and easily.
tabetha
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29-09-2008, 09:06 AM
#8
Jamie @ Fast Ford
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I could tell you of people who have this and don't even get through emisssions, but they want to remain anon, that is thier choice and I have to respect it.
You will get better economy and emissions with a decent map session, but of course it has to be someone who can map the system you have.
I don't use the oe system,(as not a fan), but would personally trot over to NMS if it were my money.
I get when driving easy 350+ to a tank from my 2wd cossie, with 150,000+ miles on it, and it does regular dyno sessions all day long some days, 4 hours last monday for example.
Idle co is less than 1% and PERFECT as the igntion alters to suit and keep the idle stable, I have the capability to run CL and have the gear all wired up, it is ONLY a press of a keyboard button to do it, which I can do from my laptop in 5 minutes, but I don't, need to.
Depending on target afr set it can limit power and limit mpg, proper setting up/mapping will give you the best of both worlds.
The car can only be as good as it's components allow it, one of the reason I changed my ecu, you CAN get excellent results with the oe ecu, but you can also get more features, use from a aftermarket one, I have my fave, and he is about 1/4 mile away.
The resason I chose my ecu maker was because of that he makes them, he designed it too, so you get to speak to the people who know it better than anyone else.
Another point was future safeguard whenoe sensors are hard to get, I canuse any and calibrate myself simply free and easily.
tabetha
You will get better economy and emissions with a decent map session, but of course it has to be someone who can map the system you have.
I don't use the oe system,(as not a fan), but would personally trot over to NMS if it were my money.
I get when driving easy 350+ to a tank from my 2wd cossie, with 150,000+ miles on it, and it does regular dyno sessions all day long some days, 4 hours last monday for example.
Idle co is less than 1% and PERFECT as the igntion alters to suit and keep the idle stable, I have the capability to run CL and have the gear all wired up, it is ONLY a press of a keyboard button to do it, which I can do from my laptop in 5 minutes, but I don't, need to.
Depending on target afr set it can limit power and limit mpg, proper setting up/mapping will give you the best of both worlds.
The car can only be as good as it's components allow it, one of the reason I changed my ecu, you CAN get excellent results with the oe ecu, but you can also get more features, use from a aftermarket one, I have my fave, and he is about 1/4 mile away.
The resason I chose my ecu maker was because of that he makes them, he designed it too, so you get to speak to the people who know it better than anyone else.
Another point was future safeguard whenoe sensors are hard to get, I canuse any and calibrate myself simply free and easily.
tabetha
What ECU are you running then mate?
30-09-2008, 07:12 AM
#10
20K+ Super Poster.
There are many excellent aftermarket ecu's.
The one that was the best for me, by pure chance is the Emerald,
WWW.EMERALDM3D.COM
If you want one all I can say is order now, they have doubled thier order each time this year, as they can't get them quick enough, although they used to be made in house, they are now made by a electronics firm, as they would need a factory on it's own to make enough.
I have just ordered my 7th one this year, this one being for my dad, and even though I live there have to wait, I am not even on the list yet, they have a cancellation list for RR time for mapping, all day they are rung up with people asking for cancellations.
Last night for example there was a guy from Reading, there with a 4 litre V8 TR7 rally car, although he has a emerald dealer near him wanted it done at emerald itself, he has never heard his car run since fitting new ecu, interestingly this used 2 x cossie throttle housings!!
A lot of time people do not align the tps, and this causes havoc on new installs.
My iscv keeps sticking around 1500 rpm, so it is coming off, and I am using a mondeo one with a little air bypass plate to make it work.
My tps was missing the first 1/4 range of movement jumping from full throttle to nothing and back, I couldn't even feel it on the oe ecu, just thought it was ok, it of course played havoc on the emerald(and prevented it from starting), bollocks I thought where can I get a new cossie tps right now ?, and at what price ?
30 minutes later and £20 lighter I had a BRAND NEW TPS fitted a universal one, had to take off bracket around throttle spindle drill two 3.2mm holes, tap to 4x0.7mm put sensor on back on car laptop connected TPS zeroed in, job done, how easy ?
The point is the oe ecu is so crude at chucking fuel in(IMO) that it didn't even notice a loss of tps signal,just carried on giving max fuelling at just above idle.
I didn't even look to see how much a oe tps was as wanted one that day, these are off the shelf bits that I used, it is basically mk3 granada(think they're the ones ?) with a lug missing, as supplied by makers.
A new universal ECT any that fits, 2 minutes to calibrate any you want to use.
ISCV any you want to use, if it flows air it will work.
The ecu can be used to run more than 1 car as there is more than 1 map, Roosie(off here) is using one on his track car cossie(2wd), and the same ecu on his mk2 escort track car(ST170 engine), it's just a flick of a switch.
I have one of my maps as bang bang, flames pops bangs etc, F**K it's loud!!, although any time I want to take off the limiter and have a normal map there already.
I am drilling a 3mm hole in the front of the exhuast, just behind the lambda(used for mapping) so it lets more air into exhaust for louder bangs/pops bigger flames.
tabetha
The one that was the best for me, by pure chance is the Emerald,
WWW.EMERALDM3D.COM
If you want one all I can say is order now, they have doubled thier order each time this year, as they can't get them quick enough, although they used to be made in house, they are now made by a electronics firm, as they would need a factory on it's own to make enough.
I have just ordered my 7th one this year, this one being for my dad, and even though I live there have to wait, I am not even on the list yet, they have a cancellation list for RR time for mapping, all day they are rung up with people asking for cancellations.
Last night for example there was a guy from Reading, there with a 4 litre V8 TR7 rally car, although he has a emerald dealer near him wanted it done at emerald itself, he has never heard his car run since fitting new ecu, interestingly this used 2 x cossie throttle housings!!
A lot of time people do not align the tps, and this causes havoc on new installs.
My iscv keeps sticking around 1500 rpm, so it is coming off, and I am using a mondeo one with a little air bypass plate to make it work.
My tps was missing the first 1/4 range of movement jumping from full throttle to nothing and back, I couldn't even feel it on the oe ecu, just thought it was ok, it of course played havoc on the emerald(and prevented it from starting), bollocks I thought where can I get a new cossie tps right now ?, and at what price ?
30 minutes later and £20 lighter I had a BRAND NEW TPS fitted a universal one, had to take off bracket around throttle spindle drill two 3.2mm holes, tap to 4x0.7mm put sensor on back on car laptop connected TPS zeroed in, job done, how easy ?
The point is the oe ecu is so crude at chucking fuel in(IMO) that it didn't even notice a loss of tps signal,just carried on giving max fuelling at just above idle.
I didn't even look to see how much a oe tps was as wanted one that day, these are off the shelf bits that I used, it is basically mk3 granada(think they're the ones ?) with a lug missing, as supplied by makers.
A new universal ECT any that fits, 2 minutes to calibrate any you want to use.
ISCV any you want to use, if it flows air it will work.
The ecu can be used to run more than 1 car as there is more than 1 map, Roosie(off here) is using one on his track car cossie(2wd), and the same ecu on his mk2 escort track car(ST170 engine), it's just a flick of a switch.
I have one of my maps as bang bang, flames pops bangs etc, F**K it's loud!!, although any time I want to take off the limiter and have a normal map there already.
I am drilling a 3mm hole in the front of the exhuast, just behind the lambda(used for mapping) so it lets more air into exhaust for louder bangs/pops bigger flames.
tabetha
30-09-2008, 01:35 PM
#13
20K+ Super Poster.
Less than a modded oe ecu that has a lot less features.
I think retail are around £600, loom can just have new end put on which you get, the software is so user friendly that even I can do it, and I don't do computers!!, but all included as well, and nothing fancy needed at all.
I took my lower dash out and mounted it where the speaker normally goes behind the grille part of dash, on side of glovebox, so lose no room in glovebox etc, still easy to get to, I had a new loom made but friend does these for a living.
tabetha
I think retail are around £600, loom can just have new end put on which you get, the software is so user friendly that even I can do it, and I don't do computers!!, but all included as well, and nothing fancy needed at all.
I took my lower dash out and mounted it where the speaker normally goes behind the grille part of dash, on side of glovebox, so lose no room in glovebox etc, still easy to get to, I had a new loom made but friend does these for a living.
tabetha
30-09-2008, 02:12 PM
#14
Less than a modded oe ecu that has a lot less features.
I think retail are around £600, loom can just have new end put on which you get, the software is so user friendly that even I can do it, and I don't do computers!!, but all included as well, and nothing fancy needed at all.
I took my lower dash out and mounted it where the speaker normally goes behind the grille part of dash, on side of glovebox, so lose no room in glovebox etc, still easy to get to, I had a new loom made but friend does these for a living.
tabetha
I think retail are around £600, loom can just have new end put on which you get, the software is so user friendly that even I can do it, and I don't do computers!!, but all included as well, and nothing fancy needed at all.
I took my lower dash out and mounted it where the speaker normally goes behind the grille part of dash, on side of glovebox, so lose no room in glovebox etc, still easy to get to, I had a new loom made but friend does these for a living.
tabetha
i was quoted £2k for aftermarket ecu earlier this year !!!!! which is why i got l8 etc
30-09-2008, 04:26 PM
#15
20K+ Super Poster.
Even with a brand new loom and set up you will only be looking at around £1200.
I have just been on the phone to Kim(in the office) she says there is JDM DYNO
(07766224910), in WIGTON, if that is any good.
If not I would just order one install it, then do a cheat with AA/RAC and get transported there(just get mate to tow you a few miles from home, unless you have home start) say it just broke down night before etc, or just borrow trailer etc.
The only things apart from installing you need to do is, grind one lobe off of the dizzy so it becomes single instead of two lobes, doesn't matter which one, and doesn't matter in which postion the dizzy goes from then on either, it can't be out of line as it can't be wrong!!
The other thing is you need to mod the front pulley to take a different trigger pattern, 36-1 being the most common, although will run 22 different ones, but I used a 36-1 trigger at a cost of £20 cut(lathe) off the 4 oe lugs, machined back slightly then welded on the new trigger wheel, or you can do it the non tight way!!, and buy a blingy one already done, just I'm too tight.
You don't even need to space out etc the cps, I didn't even need to adjust mine.
You do away with the two igntion amps needed for coilkpack, as ecu runs coilpack direct.
I machined the shaft of my dizzy to get rid of end bit that locates the rotor arm, then made a plywood disc to sit in the end, put in with sealnt to waterproof it, so now no higher than the body itself, although not fitted it yet still borrowing Roosie's, but I'm sure he'll forget.
The looms I get are pro built, by a guy been doing them over 30 years at all levels of m'sport for very famous names.
tabetha
ps pm sent
I have just been on the phone to Kim(in the office) she says there is JDM DYNO
(07766224910), in WIGTON, if that is any good.
If not I would just order one install it, then do a cheat with AA/RAC and get transported there(just get mate to tow you a few miles from home, unless you have home start) say it just broke down night before etc, or just borrow trailer etc.
The only things apart from installing you need to do is, grind one lobe off of the dizzy so it becomes single instead of two lobes, doesn't matter which one, and doesn't matter in which postion the dizzy goes from then on either, it can't be out of line as it can't be wrong!!
The other thing is you need to mod the front pulley to take a different trigger pattern, 36-1 being the most common, although will run 22 different ones, but I used a 36-1 trigger at a cost of £20 cut(lathe) off the 4 oe lugs, machined back slightly then welded on the new trigger wheel, or you can do it the non tight way!!, and buy a blingy one already done, just I'm too tight.
You don't even need to space out etc the cps, I didn't even need to adjust mine.
You do away with the two igntion amps needed for coilkpack, as ecu runs coilpack direct.
I machined the shaft of my dizzy to get rid of end bit that locates the rotor arm, then made a plywood disc to sit in the end, put in with sealnt to waterproof it, so now no higher than the body itself, although not fitted it yet still borrowing Roosie's, but I'm sure he'll forget.
The looms I get are pro built, by a guy been doing them over 30 years at all levels of m'sport for very famous names.
tabetha
ps pm sent
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