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1.6 cvh head gasket change

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Old 19-08-2008 | 08:45 PM
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Default 1.6 cvh head gasket change

HELP! i have a mk4 escort van, its been a bit of a project and my mate fitted a 1.6 prtrol cvh engine, today i noticed it was smokey so i opened the bonnet and there is a load of fresh oil down the block and white scum round the oil cap, gaskets gone! i took out the dipstick and my dickhead m8 has overfilled with oil theres twise as much oil as there should be this is wot i think made the gasket fail. dont really want to ask my m8 to do it caus he`l probly fuk summet else up, ANY1 NO IF ITS A BIG JOB DOIN THE GASKET MY SELF, ive never done a gasket b4 but surely it cant be that hard on a simple 1.6 cvh!!!! PLEASE HELP..... ANY1

ALSO THIS WAS THE FIRST TIME I STARTED THE VAN IN NEARLLY 2 YEARS IV HAD A LOOK ABOUT THE ENGINE BAY, I SQUEEZED ONE OF THE WATER HOSE`S AND IT MADE A CRUNCHING NOISE ASIF THERE WAS A LAYER OF SUMMET ON THE INSIDE OF THE HOSE! ANY1 NO IF THATS ANYTHING 2 WORRY ABOUT
Old 19-08-2008 | 09:31 PM
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Firstly, i would check that hose. It might be corroded on the inside or full of gumf.

The head gasket can be done by removing the exhaust manifold studs and drop the exhaust. Then, diconnect and plugs (throttle pos, cold start etc.) Remove the accelarator cable. Remove fuel feed. Then remove rocker cover bolts, inside you will find 10 13mm head bolts, crack them off and remove. Lift the head off (watch the dowel's) Remove the old head gasket. Clean the surfaces then fit the new gasket. If you can, check the head for warping, use a straight edge long ways with feeler gauges and check there is no gap. If there is the head will need skimmed. Replace all parts in reverse of removing. Set the head bolds to specified torque setting (dont have this to hand) Usually till the treads are taken up then around a quarter of a turn.

Give this a try.

Might be a couple of other things to come off the head aswell, be carefull. Make sure you place the dowels back in the right place if they come out. You dont want to drop them in the oil port or water. Do an oil flush and water flush after this to obtain full efficiancy of the system.

Make sure the cooling system operates properly, im sure the fan should kick in a around 80degrees off the top of my head.
Old 20-08-2008 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by peachy
Firstly, i would check that hose. It might be corroded on the inside or full of gumf.

The head gasket can be done by removing the exhaust manifold studs and drop the exhaust. Then, diconnect and plugs (throttle pos, cold start etc.) Remove the accelarator cable. Remove fuel feed. Then remove rocker cover bolts, inside you will find 10 13mm head bolts, crack them off and remove. Lift the head off (watch the dowel's) Remove the old head gasket. Clean the surfaces then fit the new gasket. If you can, check the head for warping, use a straight edge long ways with feeler gauges and check there is no gap. If there is the head will need skimmed. Replace all parts in reverse of removing. Set the head bolds to specified torque setting (dont have this to hand) Usually till the treads are taken up then around a quarter of a turn.


Give this a try.

Might be a couple of other things to come off the head aswell, be carefull. Make sure you place the dowels back in the right place if they come out. You dont want to drop them in the oil port or water. Do an oil flush and water flush after this to obtain full efficiancy of the system.

Make sure the cooling system operates properly, im sure the fan should kick in a around 80degrees off the top of my head.

Cheers thats a big help sounds prety strait forwud, do u no if there is any other tools il need 2 hand accept a socket and screw driver set, also i was thinkin of changing valve stem oil seals while im at it, any advise in that area.
p.s wats the timing like to do on cvh`s
Thanks again m8 very big help

rsvmad
Old 20-08-2008 | 12:41 PM
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Now, this is the part i forgot. The bottom pulley has a V cut out, line that with the 0 mark on the black pulley cover. Its easier to mark the V with some TIPEX. The top pulley arrow will now (or should be) inline with a small dimple on the head. You can line these up using a spanner and turning the pulley clock wise. It will Feel tight but will go. When these are lined up un tension the pulley tentioner. NOW! Remember how the pulley tentioner sat as this is vital and can be put back incorrectly, take photos if unsure.

The valve steam seals are pretty easy too. You WILL need a valve steam spring clamp at this point (usually around Ł10 from motor factors) Its straight forward, remove the rocker for each valve. This is done by removing the nut which holds it in place. Each rocker will feel loose at TDC (top dead centre) this is achieved by turning the crank like before when setting timing. When the rocker feels loose by shaking loosen that nut. Clamp the spring then remove the seal and replace. Its been a while since i last did this too so take your time incase i missed a step. DO EACH ONE AT A TIME SO NO CONFUSION IS OCCURED.
Old 20-08-2008 | 12:46 PM
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easy mate.if the head is ok.,could be done in a hour.i did an xr3i engine in 35minutes lol
Old 20-08-2008 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by peachy
Now, this is the part i forgot. The bottom pulley has a V cut out, line that with the 0 mark on the black pulley cover. Its easier to mark the V with some TIPEX. The top pulley arrow will now (or should be) inline with a small dimple on the head. You can line these up using a spanner and turning the pulley clock wise. It will Feel tight but will go. When these are lined up un tension the pulley tentioner. NOW! Remember how the pulley tentioner sat as this is vital and can be put back incorrectly, take photos if unsure.

The valve steam seals are pretty easy too. You WILL need a valve steam spring clamp at this point (usually around Ł10 from motor factors) Its straight forward, remove the rocker for each valve. This is done by removing the nut which holds it in place. Each rocker will feel loose at TDC (top dead centre) this is achieved by turning the crank like before when setting timing. When the rocker feels loose by shaking loosen that nut. Clamp the spring then remove the seal and replace. Its been a while since i last did this too so take your time incase i missed a step. DO EACH ONE AT A TIME SO NO CONFUSION IS OCCURED.

Cheers m8, u defo no ur stuff! just ordered the gasket set of ebay im gona give it a go! the gasket has defo gone, had all the water hose`s of 2day and the crunching sound was a layer of rust coloured shite! ive cleaned them all out put back on filled water an all seem ok. I did an oil change removing the over filled oil, started her up an just 10mins later the oil cap was full of white scum again. But hopefully i should have it sorted it seams easy enough altho doin the timming will prob be the hardest bit 4 me dont realy no the pros an cons on TDC, im gona get the head skimmed tho just to be safe... Anyways ill let u no how i get on thanks again
Old 21-08-2008 | 01:07 PM
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No probs, all the best
Old 21-08-2008 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by peachy
No probs, all the best
hello again, jus 1 more qustion! hope u dont mind, do i change the stem seals b4 i take the head off?
cheers m8

rsvmad
Old 21-08-2008 | 05:22 PM
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Before or after mate, do it with the head insitue
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