cossi wont start
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cossi wont start
ive got it turning over and it tries to fire but just wont grab hold and some times tries to fire on iduction stroke. ive checked the timing over and over and set it to the book please help.
Bam
Bam
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was the car running and then this happend or have you done something and now it won't start?
to start you could check your crank pully has 4 teeth and make sure the sensor gap is between 0.6-1mm 0.8 is what I use.
HTH
to start you could check your crank pully has 4 teeth and make sure the sensor gap is between 0.6-1mm 0.8 is what I use.
HTH
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could be lots of other things, does the engine sound good? when you say set it up by the book what do you mean?
Check your crank sensor as I said above it might get you out of trouble.
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had injectors out there all fireing not had no dealings with injectors they spat fuel out in no pattern at all is this correct and number 3 spark was a little week
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is there any way of checking this without lending or buying an other one
what i mean is i set it to the book how it reads align all marks on pulleys and check for tdc in number 1 plug hole im a car painter not mechanic so i have to read and do what it says in the manual lol.
what i mean is i set it to the book how it reads align all marks on pulleys and check for tdc in number 1 plug hole im a car painter not mechanic so i have to read and do what it says in the manual lol.
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Hi When ya checked the timing was the lug on the bottom pulley lined up with the mark as thats tdc not the groove on pulley, also check rotor arm in dissy is exactly in middle of mark on dissy casing. Good luck.
Cheers steve.
Cheers steve.
#11
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As said check the alignment with the camwheels pointers pointing towards each other and in line with the join between head and rocker cover, the crank pulley must be on the LUG nearest the "V" groove, NOT the groove itself(this is just for checking ignition timing, though not adjustable).
The phase sensor(dizzy) must be 100% in line of the centre of the rotor arm with the scribe mark on the dizzy body metal top where the cap goes down, about the 1 o'clock position.
If the phase was out it would still start no problem but would overfuel chronically, as it would go to batched firing as it does when cranking(I beleive).
As everyone seems to have missed it, check your PLUG GAPS, and set to 0.6mm, my own cossie would not even fire at the "correct" gap that ford specified on the sticker on the intercooler.
tabetha
The phase sensor(dizzy) must be 100% in line of the centre of the rotor arm with the scribe mark on the dizzy body metal top where the cap goes down, about the 1 o'clock position.
If the phase was out it would still start no problem but would overfuel chronically, as it would go to batched firing as it does when cranking(I beleive).
As everyone seems to have missed it, check your PLUG GAPS, and set to 0.6mm, my own cossie would not even fire at the "correct" gap that ford specified on the sticker on the intercooler.
tabetha
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yer i noticed the groove and the mark so checked and set it with the mark its getting on my wick now taking longer to start the engine than it did to build the whole front end up lol thanx to all you lot on here ive a few things to check today cheers all Bam
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are you replacing the engine in a cossie for a cossie or are you swapping an engine into anotehr car that's not originally a cossie?
and, if it's the first, did you get the engien from the same year cossie as yours as if the ecu's are different this may be your end reslut problem
and, if it's the first, did you get the engien from the same year cossie as yours as if the ecu's are different this may be your end reslut problem
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are you replacing the engine in a cossie for a cossie or are you swapping an engine into anotehr car that's not originally a cossie?
and, if it's the first, did you get the engien from the same year cossie as yours as if the ecu's are different this may be your end reslut problem
and, if it's the first, did you get the engien from the same year cossie as yours as if the ecu's are different this may be your end reslut problem
yes my car is a gen rwd saf cossi the engine is a rwd out of nearly same age and is the ecu it very nearl fires then goes a little tight end tries to spin back a turn
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I've had a very similar problem with mine before, which turned out to be a bad earth on the ignition amplifier. Might be worth checking.
Also, another common one is getting the plugs on the dizzy and crank sensor mixed up. They're both in the same place on the loom but one is grey and one is green, make sure the grey one goes to the dizzy and the green one goes to the plug on the end og the crank sensor.
Also, another common one is getting the plugs on the dizzy and crank sensor mixed up. They're both in the same place on the loom but one is grey and one is green, make sure the grey one goes to the dizzy and the green one goes to the plug on the end og the crank sensor.
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I've had a very similar problem with mine before, which turned out to be a bad earth on the ignition amplifier. Might be worth checking.
Also, another common one is getting the plugs on the dizzy and crank sensor mixed up. They're both in the same place on the loom but one is grey and one is green, make sure the grey one goes to the dizzy and the green one goes to the plug on the end og the crank sensor.
Also, another common one is getting the plugs on the dizzy and crank sensor mixed up. They're both in the same place on the loom but one is grey and one is green, make sure the grey one goes to the dizzy and the green one goes to the plug on the end og the crank sensor.
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