just bought an orion 1600e with rst running gear, just had engine rebuild etc, seems a homegrown conversion but all is there, the only problem seems a complete lack of boost, the car is reasonably quick but there's nothing coming from the dump valve, no wastegate chatter or anything to suggest its boosting at all, it has a superchip and bleed valve. I've been playing with it this afternoon and cured a couple of vacum leaks but still nothing. Any ideas???

 

have you checked you actuator have you tried changing it?

 

as above seems like a few pipes are either not connected or not going where they should be

 

if the pipes are not connected it would not idle, here is a little help to get you going

the problem i had was the waistgate penny had 'disappeared' if all else fails check that



BOOST PROBLEMS

Right before I go into this, make sure you have the right ECU for the right car. Some tuning companies won’t touch the car if it has the wrong ECU on it, and some will. Best to check if you don’t want to be turned away.

Blue-Red-Blue = Series one cars (B, C, D)
Blue-Red-White = Early series two cars, with no knock sensor, mainly the first D plates
Blue-Red-Black = Series 2 cars with a knock sensor (E, F, G)
Hearts & Diamonds = 90 spec cars, with a knock sensor (G, H)

If you are wondering what the knock sensor is, it is a green plug that is on the right hand side of the inlet manifold.

Right to test the boost on the car, the first thing to check are the boost hoses and jubilee clips, this will cost you nothing. Moving on from there the next thing to check is the Amal valve. It is a small electric solenoid, and it is attached to the gearbox, if you look below the water thermostat housing you should see it sat there with three hoses running to it. When you switch the ignition on, it should click. If it doesn’t it might well be dead.

The easiest way to check the boost is by a boost gauge, and that’s why most people fit them to their cars. A standard RST should be boosting at 7 – 8 PSI. If not then there are a few reasons why it might not be.

First up the actuator. This might be worn, or it might be set up wrong. To adjust the boost you have alter the length of this rod. To increase the boost shorten the rod, to lower the boost lengthen the road, and don’t forget the clip for the end of it either.

Another reason the boost might be wrong are the hoses that run from the turbo to the Amal valve. Check they are OK and that they are secured tight. Another hose to check is the one that runs from the ECU itself to the inlet manifold. Don’t run a car without this hose!

Another reason why the car might not be holding the boost is that the turbo might be dead. It might have worn internally and so it can’t create any boost at all, or debris might have got inside and damaged something. But only assume it’s the turbo as a last resort, as it’s the most expensive part to replace.

 

ok the amal valve is bypassed as there's a bleed valve fitted (but it is still plugged in) there is a vacum hose blanked off from the turbo and the hose to the actuator is run via the bleed valve, as this is a conversion into the car i'd imagine the ecu was taken from the donor vehicle too. i'm going to check the preload on the actuator tonight as i wasnt in the right clothes to go crawling under the car yesterday