Hello.

I am writing from finland, sorry my bad english

I have 87 rst, and my problem is that when accelerating 0.1 boost even car stops going, and bopping (misfire) in the exhaust.

Spark plugs are white?





I have tried other motorcraft ignition box and air tempeature sensor.
The car runs about normally when i limit the pressure that goes in ignition unit.
I think car runs lean, turbo is very hot and red when driven even little at boost 0.5 bar.




That filter and bleeder are needed it even works at 0.5 boost and half gas it misfire, but full throttle and lot of revs it works.

I think car should work normally without any limit of pressure in ignition unit?


The car has some modifications:

Dumpvalve
Larger intercooler
Kent cams cvh 31 camshaft
-34 actuator

I post some pictures of engine bay, help needed

i have not try new spark plugs and spark wires

 

Does your ECU have another chip in it?

You can't run a -34 actuator with a standard ECU
When the AMAL-valve (electric valve on top of the gearbox) starts working the boost is too high so it cuts the ignition

If you change to the original actuator it should be fine

 

I have removed amal valve already.

And the problems starts at 0.1 bar, not 0.7 or 1.0.

I think my -34 actuator is not problem.

 

One thing is for sure, multipoint spark plugs and turbos have never mixed well.

 

Has the ECU been chipped?
Is the boost guage known to be accurate?

PJay

 

Ecu is not tuned, it has no chip.
I have autometer boostgauge, think its ok.
I tried with compressor to put some pressure and it works ok.


Jesse:

Tomorrow gonna get some normal spark plugs.

 

Antti,

Perhaps a electrical problem.

Turbo glowing red under low boost suggest massive retard of the ingnition to me (causing detonation in the exhaust manifold and would explain the popping/backfire in the exhaust..
Is the ignition timing correct? Could the distributor have moved?.
The heat could do this to your spark plugs.

Matt

Let us know what the problem was.
check out this link and follow through there links to there diagnostic page http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/t.../diagnosis.htm
It has diagrams of plug fouling and its cause.

 

Hello and thanks for advices!

Today i tried with other distributor, nothing help.
I put in ecu pressure pipe chokescrew, and adjust it almost shut, so ecu wont get that much pressure that i have in intake manifold.
Car runs now ok, but something is wrong, i now it.

 

I remembered I had this problem too about 4 years ago, but not all the time like you

Changed everything possible AMAL-valve/plugs/leads

Checked everything electrical with the original Ford Workshop Manual and still nothing

Checked fuel pump feed/pressure/flow/fuelfilter

I eventually took it to the Ford dealer BIGGEST MISTAKE EVER!!!

Then I took it to a local motorsports company and he found it in 15 minutes

Problem: cracked MAP sensor inside the ECU!

Changed ECU et voila: problem solved

Annti,
Connect the AMAL-valve back up

Switch on the ignition

If you blow softly in the vacuumhose to your ECU, does the AMAL valve begin to click/rattle
If your AMAL-valve is blown/not there check if you get a pulse signal with a multimeter

If you don't get a signal or not a regular signal try changing the ECU.

Blown MAP sensorsare common (so they told me)NOT THE FORD DEALER BTW

Hopes this helps

 

Antti, my MAP-sensor was also broken, thats why I ran the car for half a year with the hose disconnected and the ignition retarded from the distributor. Now I have the Megasquirt and the EDIS waisted spark system to get rid of the original ESCII unit. You could use the Megasquirt as well. Perhaps just for ignition to keep it simple.

 

cossiemk2:



I dont know where my amal valve is, maybe my friends garage, maybe not

But i think it should work wihtout amal valve ok, because every s2 rst that i have seen been running without amal.

And i have tried 2 different ecu´s, and i dont believe that my map of ecu is broken.

My ecu works fine in other s2 rst.

jesse: Tomorrow to amw, lets see if they can find the failure

 

check out antti's latest updates: http://personal.inet.fi/private/antt...ST/tarina.html
language might be difficult but there are vids and a dyno sheet.

 

yepyep, we test car in dyno and car run ok, but go lean after 0.8 bar boost


Tuner recomended that i have to change fuel pump for more powerful and injectors.
I know bosch hi power fuelpumps, but where can i found some injectors for my rst, more fuel than original
At 15 psi boost car make 190 ps or something, but very lean.


I put dynoprint image here.

 

But do the ECUs from the other RST's work in your car?

 

Yep, i tried my friends ecu in my car, no any help.

So i believe that problem is not ecu.

 

A Standard RST fuel system once set up correctly should easily be able to supply fuel for 15psi of boost.

PJay

 

Thanks pjay.

I believe i have something wrong on my fuel ke-jetronic fuel distributor

I will buy air/fuel meter next week and install, then specialist must raise the controlpressure of the ke-jetronic?

Or any other ideas?

 

If it doesn't even run on low boost 0.1/0.2 bar as you said you probably have problems with fuel

I had a problem once, I was on the motorway doing 150 kph and then had to to lift off the throttle:engine cut and never fired up again.

The fuel regulator(black thing on the left side of the fuel distributor) had gone stuck while decellerating (fuel cut-off) so it didn't get any fuel

Changed the regulator and all was perfect again.

Maybe this is not working properly on your car.

Swap it with one of your friends cars and see how it does?

BTW have you checked the fuel pressure and capacity(how much it delivers)?



RegardS

Jurgen

 

No i dont have check fuel pressure yet.

Have to test fuelpump, and fuelpressure also.

 

Have u checked that the bottom boost hose isnt collapsing.
when the ford ones get soft the squash easier. it will be the hose from the metering head to the turbo as the vacuum sucks it in then blocking of the airfeed