Water rising in header tank
01-02-2007, 01:14 PM
#1
Water rising in header tank
ive replaced my head gasket, put a new thermostat in, repaired the cracked turbo water feed pipe, new header thank, and new temp sender..
and same as before i had done all this, the water in the header tank is still rising when i rev the car!!!!
its really doing my head in now, what is causing this!!??
could it just be a blocked pipe?
any help appreciated..
and same as before i had done all this, the water in the header tank is still rising when i rev the car!!!!
its really doing my head in now, what is causing this!!??
could it just be a blocked pipe?
any help appreciated..
01-02-2007, 01:37 PM
#5
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Well if you let it get hot and rev it up the water will rise, by keeping the cap on you pressurise the system.
Pressure in the breather system doesnt sound good though........you may have a bit of a suspect gasket there mate!
Did you change the stat because it was overheating?
Pressure in the breather system doesnt sound good though........you may have a bit of a suspect gasket there mate!
Did you change the stat because it was overheating?
01-02-2007, 01:55 PM
#6
i changed the thermostat as a precaution, the wierd thing is that it doesnt over heat.
i changed the original head gasket because of the pressure in the head and the rising water in the header tank.
i also changed the oil breather.
when the head was off i put a metal ruler along the bottom of the head and it wasnt warped. ive put a new felpro head gasket on and the sympom is still there!
the water rises in the header tank even when the lid is on tight??!!
i changed the original head gasket because of the pressure in the head and the rising water in the header tank.
i also changed the oil breather.
when the head was off i put a metal ruler along the bottom of the head and it wasnt warped. ive put a new felpro head gasket on and the sympom is still there!
the water rises in the header tank even when the lid is on tight??!!
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01-02-2007, 03:31 PM
#10
theres ever so slight oil contamanation in the water.
it has all the symptoms of a cracked head/block
just cant beleive that after checking for cracks, warped head etc. that this is what it is. because its not over heating im hoping theres some sort of other answer.. but i dont think there is.
after so much money and work, when you think you've got it, theres always something (big in this case) that takes you back to square one. i feel like poo
lol
it has all the symptoms of a cracked head/block
just cant beleive that after checking for cracks, warped head etc. that this is what it is. because its not over heating im hoping theres some sort of other answer.. but i dont think there is.
after so much money and work, when you think you've got it, theres always something (big in this case) that takes you back to square one. i feel like poo
lol
01-02-2007, 03:41 PM
#11
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As you say, they aren't always evident.......
I know its easy to say now but you should of had a pressure test done
I know its a pain in the ass but i expect relaistically it will be the head and its an easy change on a CVH.
Just keep an eye on it for now......if theres oil in the water, water WILL appear in the oil too.
I wouldn't rely on it for time being though you don't wana be driving it too much otherwise it will be bottom end and a new turbo aswell
I know its easy to say now but you should of had a pressure test done
I know its a pain in the ass but i expect relaistically it will be the head and its an easy change on a CVH.
Just keep an eye on it for now......if theres oil in the water, water WILL appear in the oil too.
I wouldn't rely on it for time being though you don't wana be driving it too much otherwise it will be bottom end and a new turbo aswell
01-02-2007, 03:59 PM
#12
i know, pressure test should have been exactly what i should have done. was after i checked for cracks and it was straight and didnt need a skim i thought it would be fine. lessons always learnt the hard way
as you say its an easy swap. just means i gotta save up more money now so can get a new head (or current one repaired), and new head gasket and bolts (they were group A ones too )
tah for all your help tho mate
as you say its an easy swap. just means i gotta save up more money now so can get a new head (or current one repaired), and new head gasket and bolts (they were group A ones too
)tah for all your help tho mate
01-02-2007, 04:26 PM
#16
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Standard gaskets are meant to be the best anyway mate 
And bolts are only about Ł8
Run it up on the drive for a short while and see if you get contamination in the oil.
Not too sure if you would see anything on a compression test but it wouldnt go a miss!!!
And bolts are only about Ł8
Run it up on the drive for a short while and see if you get contamination in the oil.
Not too sure if you would see anything on a compression test but it wouldnt go a miss!!!
01-02-2007, 04:29 PM
#17
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Someone is selling a fiesta rs head in the parts room
frst head fully built with spare new valve seals Ł50
https://passionford.com/forum/viewto...asc&highlight=
frst head fully built with spare new valve seals Ł50
https://passionford.com/forum/viewto...asc&highlight=
01-02-2007, 04:46 PM
#18
antony215 cheers for that mate. gonna think of what my options are. but will most prob get a head off him.
Ł50 a good price. not sure if its worth taking the risk on a used one though?
tempted to go for the Ł110 unused/rebuilt head he has.
SafeChav i just ran the car for half an hour and it didnt over heat and water is still barely contaminated? i still keep thinking there is hope it could be something else?
it didnt smoke last time i started it up too?SafeChav
Ł50 a good price. not sure if its worth taking the risk on a used one though?
tempted to go for the Ł110 unused/rebuilt head he has.
SafeChav i just ran the car for half an hour and it didnt over heat and water is still barely contaminated? i still keep thinking there is hope it could be something else?
it didnt smoke last time i started it up too?SafeChav
01-02-2007, 04:49 PM
#19
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Don't buy anything too hastily you can get heads easily being as they are the same as XR2i's & XR3i's (ive got 2 in the garage lol)
Have you checked to see if you have any blocked pipes?
And to be honest i woulnd't expect a CVH to overheat in 30 mins they take long enough to get up to temperature in this cold weather
Have you checked to see if you have any blocked pipes?
And to be honest i woulnd't expect a CVH to overheat in 30 mins they take long enough to get up to temperature in this cold weather
01-02-2007, 04:58 PM
#20
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I just put that one up as it looks cheap if it has had a rebuild. If you do need a head ive got 3 XR2i ones if your not botherd about it being a frst one i'll sell you one cheap but you'ed need to come and pick it up unless you wanted to pay the postage on it
01-02-2007, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by antony215
I just put that one up as it looks cheap if it has had a rebuild. If you do need a head ive got 3 XR2i ones if your not botherd about it being a frst one i'll sell you one cheap but you'ed need to come and pick it up unless you wanted to pay the postage on it
01-02-2007, 05:09 PM
#23
lol na the car was already up to running temp as i had it running bout 45mins earlier.
dunno if im just clutching onto straws here but i do feel it just be a blocked pipe. guess the only way to find out is when its daylight 2mor take all the water pipes off and check them. (another wasted Ł10 worth of coolant )
dont worry not gonna purchase anything yet untill i know ive eliminated all other possibilities.
fingers crossed
dunno if im just clutching onto straws here but i do feel it just be a blocked pipe. guess the only way to find out is when its daylight 2mor take all the water pipes off and check them. (another wasted Ł10 worth of coolant
)dont worry not gonna purchase anything yet untill i know ive eliminated all other possibilities.
fingers crossed
01-02-2007, 05:11 PM
#24
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by antony215
I just put that one up as it looks cheap if it has had a rebuild. If you do need a head ive got 3 XR2i ones if your not botherd about it being a frst one i'll sell you one cheap but you'ed need to come and pick it up unless you wanted to pay the postage on it
01-02-2007, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by antony215
Who's that with then not royalmaill is it???
I sent one in the summer, it didnt have a cam though so that may take it over weight, but yeah Ł12 something
ram, the ones down the back can block up, the one from the head to the oil cooler etc
Ł10 for coolant, buy anti freeze mate! Its cheaper!
but as said try everything else first.
01-02-2007, 05:18 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by antony215
Who's that with then not royalmaill is it???
I sent one in the summer, it didnt have a cam though so that may take it over weight, but yeah Ł12 something
01-02-2007, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by antony215
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by antony215
Who's that with then not royalmaill is it???
I sent one in the summer, it didnt have a cam though so that may take it over weight, but yeah Ł12 something
02-02-2007, 07:20 PM
#37
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LIQUID EXPANDS AS IT GETS HOT END OF, this is why we have a EXPANSION TANK.
If you take off the cap you lower the boiling point of the water/afreeze mix, and the lack of pressure will allow it to expand easier.
The level needs to be JUST ABOVE MINIMUM, as it designed for expansion not contraction, the colder the water the lower it wioll be but it does not get cold enough here to matter.
Oil in water could simply be that you have inadvertantly allowed some to go down oil drain holes when takinghead off, this will evaporate.
The easy way to tell is to first allow it to get up to temp on driveway so fan comes on then leave it until fan goes off again.
If it does take it for a drive come back do same, same result it is ok.
Any pressure in crankcase could just be blcoked PCV system, have you checked.
tabetha
If you take off the cap you lower the boiling point of the water/afreeze mix, and the lack of pressure will allow it to expand easier.
The level needs to be JUST ABOVE MINIMUM, as it designed for expansion not contraction, the colder the water the lower it wioll be but it does not get cold enough here to matter.
Oil in water could simply be that you have inadvertantly allowed some to go down oil drain holes when takinghead off, this will evaporate.
The easy way to tell is to first allow it to get up to temp on driveway so fan comes on then leave it until fan goes off again.
If it does take it for a drive come back do same, same result it is ok.
Any pressure in crankcase could just be blcoked PCV system, have you checked.
tabetha
02-02-2007, 07:25 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by tabetha
LIQUID EXPANDS AS IT GETS HOT END OF, this is why we have a EXPANSION TANK.
If you take off the cap you lower the boiling point of the water/afreeze mix, and the lack of pressure will allow it to expand easier.
The level needs to be JUST ABOVE MINIMUM, as it designed for expansion not contraction, the colder the water the lower it wioll be but it does not get cold enough here to matter.
Oil in water could simply be that you have inadvertantly allowed some to go down oil drain holes when takinghead off, this will evaporate.
The easy way to tell is to first allow it to get up to temp on driveway so fan comes on then leave it until fan goes off again.
If it does take it for a drive come back do same, same result it is ok.
Any pressure in crankcase could just be blcoked PCV system, have you checked.
tabetha
If you take off the cap you lower the boiling point of the water/afreeze mix, and the lack of pressure will allow it to expand easier.
The level needs to be JUST ABOVE MINIMUM, as it designed for expansion not contraction, the colder the water the lower it wioll be but it does not get cold enough here to matter.
Oil in water could simply be that you have inadvertantly allowed some to go down oil drain holes when takinghead off, this will evaporate.
The easy way to tell is to first allow it to get up to temp on driveway so fan comes on then leave it until fan goes off again.
If it does take it for a drive come back do same, same result it is ok.
Any pressure in crankcase could just be blcoked PCV system, have you checked.
tabetha
03-02-2007, 07:23 AM
#39
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If he is filling to the MAX mark with a cold engine then leaving the cap off it will easily overflow.
This is one of the reasons it has a MAX mark, and it assumes that people leave the cap on the tank, as this is what it is for.
A corvette I fixed years ago had a HEADGASKET GONE according to CORVETTE SPECIALIST near yarmouth, so owner was told it would help if he removed seal from rad cap.
Long story short, I put a new cap on and cured the BLOWN HEADGASKET!!
One of the other reasons the water is rsing more is because of CAVITATIONas the air thus created pushes the water away as it has little resistance due to not being confined, normally this air laden water disperses into the tank, air is compressible water is not, this is alos why there is air pressure in the tank when you release the cap.
tabetha
This is one of the reasons it has a MAX mark, and it assumes that people leave the cap on the tank, as this is what it is for.
A corvette I fixed years ago had a HEADGASKET GONE according to CORVETTE SPECIALIST near yarmouth, so owner was told it would help if he removed seal from rad cap.
Long story short, I put a new cap on and cured the BLOWN HEADGASKET!!
One of the other reasons the water is rsing more is because of CAVITATIONas the air thus created pushes the water away as it has little resistance due to not being confined, normally this air laden water disperses into the tank, air is compressible water is not, this is alos why there is air pressure in the tank when you release the cap.
tabetha