clutch ratchet on s2 turbo *fixed*
#1
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clutch ratchet on s2 turbo *fixed*
my clutch ratchet broke last week so got a new 1 and got it fitted but the pedal is still soft and the fork on the gearbox isnt moving much and when i lift the pedal its rite at the top before it moves. tried driving it and just revs.
so i put a new cable on it yesterday and now it wont move when i lift the clutch. but can just feel it nuging slighly but will just rev
the fork on the gearbox is sittin in its original position, not pulled forward with the cable.
any ideas wot could be wrong?
thanks
so i put a new cable on it yesterday and now it wont move when i lift the clutch. but can just feel it nuging slighly but will just rev
the fork on the gearbox is sittin in its original position, not pulled forward with the cable.
any ideas wot could be wrong?
thanks
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yeah ive replaced everything. the ratchet is rite back as far as it will go on the pedal. ive tried pushing the fork on the gearbox forward and pressing the pedal to ratchet it up abit but then when i put it in gear and lift the clutch it wont move at all and i can put it in gear without pressing the clutch.
i got told that the fork anside the box could have broke
i got told that the fork anside the box could have broke
#6
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If you can put it in gear without pressing the clutch something is SERIOUSLY wrong...
Is the fork on the gearbox pulled back out of its normal position?
Is the fork on the gearbox pulled back out of its normal position?
#7
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the fork is sitting in its normal position its not pulled forward with the cable.
when its like that and lift the clutch it nudges forward so slightly but wont drive. it will just rev.
it will only go into gear when i ratchet the clutch up
the ratchet wont go loser off any more its rite up and the fork is sittin in its normal position
when its like that and lift the clutch it nudges forward so slightly but wont drive. it will just rev.
it will only go into gear when i ratchet the clutch up
the ratchet wont go loser off any more its rite up and the fork is sittin in its normal position
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#9
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tried that m8 and still wont work
the ratchet cant go bk any further. its rite at the top.
i put a new cable on it aswell so its a bit tighter but even with the old cable it was the same. i was just trying to elminate things
the ratchet cant go bk any further. its rite at the top.
i put a new cable on it aswell so its a bit tighter but even with the old cable it was the same. i was just trying to elminate things
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Originally Posted by murdoch1.7zs
yeah ive replaced everything. the ratchet is rite back as far as it will go on the pedal. ive tried pushing the fork on the gearbox forward and pressing the pedal to ratchet it up abit but then when i put it in gear and lift the clutch it wont move at all and i can put it in gear without pressing the clutch.
i got told that the fork anside the box could have broke
i got told that the fork anside the box could have broke
u need 2 poeple to do it like this though 1 to hold the fork out and 1 to press the ratchet a ltille
#11
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The ratchet resets everytime the clutch pedal is at rest.....but if the teeth wear out when you push it the slack gets taken up before the clutch operates, i reckon theres summit wrong with the quadrant or pawl personally.
Do a MK6 pedal conversion, much better
Do a MK6 pedal conversion, much better
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HONRNETS7 ive tried that and done it to about 2clicks but when i do that the car doesnt move at all.
how do you do that mk 6 conversion and wot parts are needed?
how do you do that mk 6 conversion and wot parts are needed?
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Basicaly you need a MK6 pedal, and quadrant, and thats it. It fits onto the shaft the same but it has a long screw through it and that adjusts the quadrant instead, aswell as the quadrant being slightly bigger which both makes the pedal softer and gives higher lift
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The quadrant is the same part on a manual or auto pedal.
You can get the parts new from ford. Pedal is about Ł10 i believe, and the quadrant won't be much.
I took one off down the scrappy and for the struggling i did i would just buy a new one now.
You can get the parts new from ford. Pedal is about Ł10 i believe, and the quadrant won't be much.
I took one off down the scrappy and for the struggling i did i would just buy a new one now.
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kl. is the cable the same then. dont wanna buy another one lol.
so when you put it in you just hook the cable on and adjust the screw on the quadrant to get the rite tension on the cable?
so when you put it in you just hook the cable on and adjust the screw on the quadrant to get the rite tension on the cable?
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The cable you have should work yes.
Although there has been some controversy over Ford not actually stocking the correct MK4 cables anymore, too long/too short something like that.
This could be your problem now if you have fitted a new cable?
Although there has been some controversy over Ford not actually stocking the correct MK4 cables anymore, too long/too short something like that.
This could be your problem now if you have fitted a new cable?
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WTF shorter???? That shouldn't be a problem at all, only really the cable being longer should be a problem, because then adjuster wouldnt be able to soak up the slack in cable.
Have u got in underneath the dash and pushed the pedal, and watched what the quadrant is doing?
Have u got in underneath the dash and pushed the pedal, and watched what the quadrant is doing?
#20
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ive been underneath the dash since last thursday
had the pedals out about 6 times.
wot u mean watch wot the quadrant is doing its still the ratchet on it just now
had the pedals out about 6 times.
wot u mean watch wot the quadrant is doing its still the ratchet on it just now
#21
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The ratchet is the quadrant.
Lyiny underneath when you push the pedal the quadrant should move with the pedal, if you can push the pedal without the quadrant moving then its not working correctly.
Lyiny underneath when you push the pedal the quadrant should move with the pedal, if you can push the pedal without the quadrant moving then its not working correctly.
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the full thing is moving together.
wots hapening is when i put the clutch down its soft when it goes down till about half way. the fork on the box is pulling forward. but doesnt seem much. it will go in to gear but when i lift the clutch it will just nudge slightly and not move and i can just rev it sitting on the spot. so it seems as if the clutch isnt realesing enough.
so i then push the fork on the box forward and push the pedal down so it clicks twice then let the fork back. put the clutch down and put it in gear and lift the pedal it wont move at all. as if its been ratcheted up to far thats its pulling the clutch right off the flywheel when the pedal is up but its only like 1 or 2 clicks weve tested it. so its seems there is sumthing else wrong.
wots hapening is when i put the clutch down its soft when it goes down till about half way. the fork on the box is pulling forward. but doesnt seem much. it will go in to gear but when i lift the clutch it will just nudge slightly and not move and i can just rev it sitting on the spot. so it seems as if the clutch isnt realesing enough.
so i then push the fork on the box forward and push the pedal down so it clicks twice then let the fork back. put the clutch down and put it in gear and lift the pedal it wont move at all. as if its been ratcheted up to far thats its pulling the clutch right off the flywheel when the pedal is up but its only like 1 or 2 clicks weve tested it. so its seems there is sumthing else wrong.
#24
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the clutch is slipping a little.
i gave it sum cuming off a round about in 2nd and put the clutch down to go into 3rd and heard the teeth slipping and the rachet pinging back and the pedal was light and couldnt get into gear.
when i started it in second to get it home once it got going i heard a sort of ratling from the engine bay then got it into 3rd using the revs and kept it there all the way bk.
i gave it sum cuming off a round about in 2nd and put the clutch down to go into 3rd and heard the teeth slipping and the rachet pinging back and the pedal was light and couldnt get into gear.
when i started it in second to get it home once it got going i heard a sort of ratling from the engine bay then got it into 3rd using the revs and kept it there all the way bk.
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I reckon ur clutch has disintegrated then aswell mate
Seems odd what you are describing and now you say the clutch was slipping its probably finished it off
Seems odd what you are describing and now you say the clutch was slipping its probably finished it off
#26
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just before it happend i raced a guy i know in his civic type r(and beat it by the way ) so maybe that was the cause of it. usualy when i blast it across the dualy that we were on i can get to like 125mph and when slowing down you can smell it reallybad but thats the only time it really smells. so maybe ive just fried it then
how hard is it to change the clutch on them. still got the abs
and will i change it to the mk5 pedal aswell then
how hard is it to change the clutch on them. still got the abs
and will i change it to the mk5 pedal aswell then
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alright murdoch1.7zs, just posting as i had major problems with my ratchet on my old rs. Basically mine snapped when I was trying to change gear,the car was off the road for a month because i could not get it to work like it should do. tried both clutch cables abs and non abs, got a new ratchet and quadrant from ford, new clutch and gearbox and only then did it get back to a drivable state. but coming home from work it snapped again.
My advice would be to get all genuine parts from ford i.e ratchet, quadrant, clutch cable and get a competent mechanic to fit it or just as safechav says do the mk6 conversion. if u still have problems and u r still on the original clutch get the clutch changed and when the gearbox is out get them to have a good look at the fork. Even the older ford mechanics i had contact with hated doing the clutch ratchet because is one of the most useless,fiddly things on a RS.i sold mine with the ratchet broken because i had really had enough of it. The 1st time mine got fixed it never released the clutch properly, so upon changing gear the clutch slipped all the time, ending up with my clutch being fecked.
My advice would be to get all genuine parts from ford i.e ratchet, quadrant, clutch cable and get a competent mechanic to fit it or just as safechav says do the mk6 conversion. if u still have problems and u r still on the original clutch get the clutch changed and when the gearbox is out get them to have a good look at the fork. Even the older ford mechanics i had contact with hated doing the clutch ratchet because is one of the most useless,fiddly things on a RS.i sold mine with the ratchet broken because i had really had enough of it. The 1st time mine got fixed it never released the clutch properly, so upon changing gear the clutch slipped all the time, ending up with my clutch being fecked.
#28
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Hmmm, well this could be an opportunity to kill 2 birds with 1 stone and bin the ABS at the same time.
If your clutch is slipping its going to need doing sooner or later. Its not tooooooo bad doing a clutch, hardest part for me as always is popping the N/S drive shaft out and getting the main shaft relocated.
It would probably benefit you in the long term to fit an uprated clutch and the MK6 pedal, should be all good then
If your clutch is slipping its going to need doing sooner or later. Its not tooooooo bad doing a clutch, hardest part for me as always is popping the N/S drive shaft out and getting the main shaft relocated.
It would probably benefit you in the long term to fit an uprated clutch and the MK6 pedal, should be all good then
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Eck RFC. cheers for the info
safechav. i would love to fit an uprated clutch but sadly ive not got the funds at the moment for a paddle 1 at nearly Ł300.
how do you get the abs belts off. do you just undo the top pulley and come off?
safechav. i would love to fit an uprated clutch but sadly ive not got the funds at the moment for a paddle 1 at nearly Ł300.
how do you get the abs belts off. do you just undo the top pulley and come off?
#30
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You don't have to buy the daddy of clutches, why not just get a mild uprated clutch, you are only going to munch up a standard one again and its a pain in the arse doing clutches.
Belts - you wish, driveshafts out im afraid
Belts - you wish, driveshafts out im afraid
#31
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wot clutch do you recomend i get and a price got a price from ford 2day for a std clutch Ł62 inc vat
so when i pull the shafts out the belts will come loose and then unbolt the modulators and thats about it ?
so when i pull the shafts out the belts will come loose and then unbolt the modulators and thats about it ?
#32
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I really don't know about which clutch, put a post up
You will need to loosen the modulators first, but basically yeah thats the principle behind it, or if you are going to bin the ABS just cut them
You will need to loosen the modulators first, but basically yeah thats the principle behind it, or if you are going to bin the ABS just cut them
#33
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i will be putting it back on
im going to do it this weekend so if i have any problems i will give you a shout
cheers for your help again
im going to do it this weekend so if i have any problems i will give you a shout
cheers for your help again
#35
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you have
i just found this about doing the mk5 pedal.
dont like the look of this cutting bits off the quadrant that how you done it
http://www.apracing.com/roadcar/clutch/epmods.htm#
i just found this about doing the mk5 pedal.
dont like the look of this cutting bits off the quadrant that how you done it
http://www.apracing.com/roadcar/clutch/epmods.htm#
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clutch pedal
yep thats how you do it, just buy a junior hacvksaw and it is very simple. Mind you some people have to cut off more teeth then specified because there pedals sit to high i cut off three extra and now mine sits fine
#38
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got the gearbox out yesterday to put the new clutch in and this is how it looked.
no wonder it didnt move
one side of the clutch plate had nothing on it wot so ever and the other side had a big chunk missing
no wonder it didnt move
one side of the clutch plate had nothing on it wot so ever and the other side had a big chunk missing