crank sensor fault..
30-05-2006, 10:50 PM
#1
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crank sensor fault..
hello ppl..
i have posted many posts about my on going problem...lol an belive me it has been on going, but i am going to sort it..hahah
anyway i have a fault wiv my saphire cosworth the thing still wont start..as from my last posts i have got futher on with it, I have now changed the engine bay loom as i could not find the other fault which was the phase sensor.
so anyway i have changed my loom and got rid ov one ov the faults now i just get crank sensor on the led tester, all the wiring is ok the crank sensor is brand new, so i am stumpt again. i do not get a spark when the phase sensor/crank sensor are at the right gap. But when i move the crank sensor closer to the pully i get a spark BUT its very weak and defo not right cos it wont start.
IF ANYONE HAS HAD THE B4 PLEASE MAIL ME...
MANY THANKS..JON@WORK I STILL AVNT GOT IT GOIN..LOL
i have posted many posts about my on going problem...lol an belive me it has been on going, but i am going to sort it..hahah
anyway i have a fault wiv my saphire cosworth the thing still wont start..as from my last posts i have got futher on with it, I have now changed the engine bay loom as i could not find the other fault which was the phase sensor.
so anyway i have changed my loom and got rid ov one ov the faults now i just get crank sensor on the led tester, all the wiring is ok the crank sensor is brand new, so i am stumpt again. i do not get a spark when the phase sensor/crank sensor are at the right gap. But when i move the crank sensor closer to the pully i get a spark BUT its very weak and defo not right cos it wont start.
IF ANYONE HAS HAD THE B4 PLEASE MAIL ME...
MANY THANKS..JON@WORK I STILL AVNT GOT IT GOIN..LOL
31-05-2006, 12:40 AM
#3
so you've done this ?
Crank Sensor Checking - info courtesy of Simon @ SECS
1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
5) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V.
Crank Sensor Checking - info courtesy of Simon @ SECS
1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
5) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V.
31-05-2006, 12:49 AM
#4
PS for argument's sake, let's say that you tested the continuity of the crank sensor wiring. Just because you have got continuity, it doesn't mean that the wiring isn't damaged or rotten, it just means that at least one strand of wire was OK at that particular moment - the above tests (and ALL of the previous post's diagnostic testing) should be performed.
Let us know if there are any discrepancies between the diagnostic resistances/voltages/whatever specified, and what your loom/ECU/sensors are producing.
For those not familiar with Simon @ SECS basic fault finding guide, here it is again ......
BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS
NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)
1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20.
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30.
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15.
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at
least 2V.
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at
least 1.5 - 2V.
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V.
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
Unplug the ecu and turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump runs the relay has been wired to run permanently or the relay is jammed.
However, if the pump is running continuously, this WILL NOT stop the car from starting.
Some chips don’t drive the fuel pump relay output properly as this is used for other features like ALS etc.... (PECTEL/AHMED chips mainly). In these situations, the pump is rewired to run continuously.
If however, the pump is wired correctly and working properly, if it runs continuously when the ecu is plugged in only, then the ECU and/or chip may have failed.
The pump is ok to run continuously
Let us know if there are any discrepancies between the diagnostic resistances/voltages/whatever specified, and what your loom/ECU/sensors are producing.
For those not familiar with Simon @ SECS basic fault finding guide, here it is again ......
BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS
NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)
1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20.
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30.
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15.
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at
least 2V.
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at
least 1.5 - 2V.
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V.
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
Unplug the ecu and turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump runs the relay has been wired to run permanently or the relay is jammed.
However, if the pump is running continuously, this WILL NOT stop the car from starting.
Some chips don’t drive the fuel pump relay output properly as this is used for other features like ALS etc.... (PECTEL/AHMED chips mainly). In these situations, the pump is rewired to run continuously.
If however, the pump is wired correctly and working properly, if it runs continuously when the ecu is plugged in only, then the ECU and/or chip may have failed.
The pump is ok to run continuously
31-05-2006, 08:23 AM
#6
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hey jon
YES I AM BACK HA HA GET UR TIN HAT ON>>>LOL
Jon i have done that full check again from secs post, but i was thinkin of that last night, about the wires being faulty i didnt think of it because i changed the loom. But i know what ur saying, i am going to fit some temp wires of the crank sensor and bypass the loom ones. an see how this pans out..
cheers.. i will be back on later to let u know..
30 posts later hahaha
when i got my ECU checked they gave me a sh** hot wiring drawing so if anyone needs an easy drawing to look at mail me..
Jon i have done that full check again from secs post, but i was thinkin of that last night, about the wires being faulty i didnt think of it because i changed the loom. But i know what ur saying, i am going to fit some temp wires of the crank sensor and bypass the loom ones. an see how this pans out..
cheers.. i will be back on later to let u know..
30 posts later hahaha
when i got my ECU checked they gave me a sh** hot wiring drawing so if anyone needs an easy drawing to look at mail me..
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31-05-2006, 10:54 AM
#8
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way hey///yiphee..hahah
WELL JON I DONE THAT CHECK AGAIN FOR THE CRANK SENSOR, THE OHMS VALUE WAS WELL WITHIN TOLL, BUT I WAS NOT GETTING A FULL 2VAC IT WAS ONLY PULLING 1.3VOLTS..SO I JUST BYPAST THE LOOM WITH TO FRESH WIRES...AM THE BUGGA STARTED FIRST TIME...YEAH I TELL U WHAT ENGALND ARE GOIN T WIN THE WORLD CUP..
SO HOW MAD IS THAT I BOUGHT A LOOM OF BOOSTMAD AN THE SAME THING MUST HAVE BEEN WRONG WITH THAT LOOM..OR IT MIGHT OV BEEN A DIFF PROBLEM.YEAH BOOSTMAD YOU SOLD ME A BAD LOOM..LOL IT MIGHT OV WENT FAULTY WHEN U PULLED IT OUT OV THE CAR.ANYWAY SORTED NOW ITS ONLY TOOK 2500000 POSTS HAHAHA.
CHEERS TO ALL YOU GUYS WHO PUT ME ON THE RIGHT TRACK..AN A VERY BIG THANKS TO JON@WORK FOR BEING VERY VERY HELPFULL..
SO HOW MAD IS THAT I BOUGHT A LOOM OF BOOSTMAD AN THE SAME THING MUST HAVE BEEN WRONG WITH THAT LOOM..OR IT MIGHT OV BEEN A DIFF PROBLEM.YEAH BOOSTMAD YOU SOLD ME A BAD LOOM..LOL IT MIGHT OV WENT FAULTY WHEN U PULLED IT OUT OV THE CAR.ANYWAY SORTED NOW ITS ONLY TOOK 2500000 POSTS HAHAHA.
CHEERS TO ALL YOU GUYS WHO PUT ME ON THE RIGHT TRACK..AN A VERY BIG THANKS TO JON@WORK FOR BEING VERY VERY HELPFULL..
01-06-2020, 12:29 PM
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Cosworth no spark
PS for argument's sake, let's say that you tested the continuity of the crank sensor wiring. Just because you have got continuity, it doesn't mean that the wiring isn't damaged or rotten, it just means that at least one strand of wire was OK at that particular moment - the above tests (and ALL of the previous post's diagnostic testing) should be performed.
Let us know if there are any discrepancies between the diagnostic resistances/voltages/whatever specified, and what your loom/ECU/sensors are producing.
For those not familiar with Simon @ SECS basic fault finding guide, here it is again ......
BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS
NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)
1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20.
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30.
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15.
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at
least 2V.
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at
least 1.5 - 2V.
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V.
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
Unplug the ecu and turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump runs the relay has been wired to run permanently or the relay is jammed.
However, if the pump is running continuously, this WILL NOT stop the car from starting.
Some chips don’t drive the fuel pump relay output properly as this is used for other features like ALS etc.... (PECTEL/AHMED chips mainly). In these situations, the pump is rewired to run continuously.
If however, the pump is wired correctly and working properly, if it runs continuously when the ecu is plugged in only, then the ECU and/or chip may have failed.
The pump is ok to run continuously
Let us know if there are any discrepancies between the diagnostic resistances/voltages/whatever specified, and what your loom/ECU/sensors are producing.
For those not familiar with Simon @ SECS basic fault finding guide, here it is again ......
BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS
NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)
1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20.
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30.
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15.
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at
least 2V.
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at
least 1.5 - 2V.
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V.
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
Unplug the ecu and turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump runs the relay has been wired to run permanently or the relay is jammed.
However, if the pump is running continuously, this WILL NOT stop the car from starting.
Some chips don’t drive the fuel pump relay output properly as this is used for other features like ALS etc.... (PECTEL/AHMED chips mainly). In these situations, the pump is rewired to run continuously.
If however, the pump is wired correctly and working properly, if it runs continuously when the ecu is plugged in only, then the ECU and/or chip may have failed.
The pump is ok to run continuously
Where do the ac voltages come from
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