hi there, ive heard people mentioning having a dump valve that can be turned on and off but ive never been able to find, in detail, how to do this and its something i really really want to do on my erst s2. ive heard someone mention using an amal valve but then ive read elsewhere else that an amal valve isnt any good................someone out there must have managed to make there dump valve turn on and off as ive heard it can be done so i was wondering if someone can give me step by step instructions and a list of whats needed please. thanks in advance everyone



dave

 

It can be done

Basically using an amal valve to give you a switchable bypass of the vacume hose connecting to the dump valve.

However it gives you the same effect of having a dump valve plumbed into your system but without the vacume hose attached. I guess this means you dont get the positive pressure closing the valve when the car is on boost. When we did it we didnt notice any problems but its something to be aware of - you might have to get clever with some kind of boost switch that turns the amal valve on when the car is on boost to keep the pressure in dump valve while on boost. Then turning it off before the car comes off boost so that there is no vacume to open the dump valve.

 

I would have thought that some kind of one way switchable valve (if such a thing exists) would work, it lets pressure from the manifold pressurise the DV and so keeps it closed, when the pressure is releaved, it closes due to its one way nature. If such a thing existed and it could be turned on/off electrically I guess you'd have it sorted.

The other way I suppose is to plumb a valve between the inlet hose and the DV itself, rather than off the plenum feed. Closed would stop any air dumping, open, it would dump through the DV as per normal

 

hey, good feedback so far, any chance of actually having a guide of some sort on how to actually to do it though...................essexboyracer, so youve actually done this before ????. if so did it work perfectly ????.

cheeRS guys

dave

 

We tested the theory and yes it works, but never had a perminant installation.

although I did even have a switch all ready! (4th switch from the left was for the dumpvalve)

 

mate thats a nice tidy installation by the looks of things ....................one step closer to a guide lol.............what reason wasnt the installation perminant mate ?????. do you think you could maybe go more indepth with regards how its done because as i said its something im really serious about having on my rs but something i havent got a clue about . great progress though, atleast i know it CAN be done.

cheers

dave

 

It's easy peasy to do, i'm guna do mine when the car is back on the road, then i might make a quick how to....

EssexBoyRacer: Where are those switches from??? I want....

 

easy peasy eh.....................fancy sharing before you do it to yours buddy lol

 

well the reason i worded it like that is cos u know how simple things aren't so simple to describe without pretty pictures

The idea i have is very simple and in theory should work......this is why i was going to try it also before i tell u how to do it just incase it doesnt go to plan

 

ahhhh i got ya mate, how long do you think itll be until you attempt it ????.

 

back to the old how long is a piece of string question lol

hopefully fairly soon....i'm not sure if the amal valve will be suitable for the job either.....

 

lol yeah i know what ya mean mate, thought id ask though, always good to hear of different ways of doing summin though, then hearing the results and then choosing the best way. fair play though mate.

whats with the wank force uk anyway lmao !!!!!

dave.

 

hello mate there is a electronic valve that sits on the bulk head with two vacume hoses that goes to it on a mk3 and mk4 xr3i this is what i used b4 i fitted a twin piston dump valve to my rs turbo the valve has two black wires that comes out of it.

 

I'm not sure if that will do the job though because as mentioned its still a wise move to keep the boost pressure going to the dump valve

 

It's not a wise move, it's necessary , otherwise the D/V will be constantly open

 

I had the wiring all plumbed in and the amal valve was even mounted and connected up. But I hadnt got round to connecting up the vacume hoses as I didnt have long enough hose so was just on a to-do-list. Anyway to cut a long story short, in a totally unrelated incident I blew the engine up and decide to break the car up for spares - so it never actually got finished!

I'll have to do you a diagram of how to connect it up but its fairly straight forward

 

The switches were from www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk they come in a kit form, you buy the base of the switch according to what type of switch you want, then buy the rocker bit and the lense and the bulbs! But they are costly! That lot set me back a LOT of money!

I then got a m8 who works in a sign shop to make me up the symbols

The way I had them wired was so that when I turned on the lights, the bottom row of lighs on the switch (where the symbols are) would light up as part of hte dash lights. Then if I turned a switch to the ON position the top light would come on to indicate it was on (the boot release didnt have one because these are momentary switches - it doesn lock in the on position)

 

Sorry you're wrong there, the dump valve only opens when the vacuum pressure exceeds that of the spring in the dump valve, you can run it without the boost pressure but as previously mentioned you run the risk of the boost pressure forcing the dump valve open at high boost. Therefore i consider it a wise move.......

EssexBoyRacer I had every belief you were going to say they look expensive, to be honest i would love to use original switches which i can doctor, but its the symbols that prove a problem, but you may have just given me an answer to the problem (hint hint nudge nudge )

 

lol good luck pal

 

Indeed, one of my lesser moments, and one of there for me

 

No worries it happens

1 - 0 to me

 

essexboyracer thatll be great if you could draw out a diagram for it including whats needed ie parts etc. all ideas and comments welcome by the way everyone, keep em coming !!!!

cheers

dave

 

ok sorry for the real crapness of the diagram but its late and Im tired!



Im not 100% sure that the markings are correct on the Amal valve. You might have to experiment! or someone else can confirm? But I think with the switch on the dump valve works. When u switch it off the dump valve will stop working.

If you swap pipes R and W around it will work the other way. I.e. with the switch off the dump valve works, with the switch on the dump valve doesnt work.

 

EssexBoyRacer: That diagrams ok, im glad you put that up before i ended up having a go and making myself look like a spaz

2 things though:aren't the amal valves jetted (so won't it increase the pressure needed to open the dumpvalve), and that won't allow the boost pressure to still go to the dump valve will it?

 

Good point I forgot about that. I had no jets in mine. Just remove them

 

Pfffffffffft, that would be far too easy.....there must be a much more complicated and frustrating way, just wouldn't be right otherwise

One question ive always had over my head, the amal valve does a straight switch between the W and R connections yeah? So when one is open the other is closed and vice versa?

 

lol, nope think thats about as complicated as it gets this time

yeah your right it switches between one or the other. The way the ECU varies this is by pulsing the supply to the amal valve so that it is constantly switching between the two ports.

 

I thought so, i had to check once and for all though, what a FUCKING shit idea, but then, its a Ford........Nuf said!!

 

http://www.osaka-autodesign.com/prod...ail.asp?ID=841 <<<-----

 

 

Sorry but i cant stand it any longer what does that Emoticon mean??????

 

bttt, i think...lol

 

???????????????

That was 3 months ago Lee