a cheap, simple, manual boost controller using parts from RS Components.

it allows a max boost pressure and controls how early you want the boost to come in.

some pics to start with..

a scematic...



and some instaled pics...




part numbers and setup procedure to follow....

 

pic of it before i fitted it to the car:


3 main parts as from RS components...

regulator: G1/4 pneumatic miniature regulator
RS Stock no: 122-655 £16.56


blow off valve: G1/4 pressure relief valve
RS Stock no: 398-9114 £19.27

non return valve: Pneumatic in line non-return valve,G1/4
RS Stock no: 384-7666 £17.85


plus the other bits, elbows, stems, nipples, push on fittings etc which were free issue as i had them lying abuot at work anyway

to follow: how to set it up once installed....

 

finally...

how to setit up once on the car...


Manual boost controller setup

Properly setting up is critical, it may take an hour of full road testing to get it set exactly as you want it.

1. screw the relief valve fully anti-clockwise so air can pass through with no restriction.
2. screw the pressure reg fully clockwise again so air can pass straight though.
3. road test the car, boost should be standard or below standard if the car used electronic boost control before – they have a weaker wastegate spring
4. unscrew the pressure reg step by step testing the car each time to see what peak boost holts at.
5. when the boost level rises to the desired level, push the knob down locking it in place,

if you cant adjust the boost make sure that:
- you have pulled the know upwards firstly
- you are turning the knob in the right direction, (anti clockwise for high boost)
- the pressure reg and relief valve are piped u the correct way
- all hoses are fitted correctly and are tight
- the pressure relief valve is fully open(fully anti clockwise


once you have set the pressure reg, to the right max boost level, you can set the wastegate creep control, that’s the pressure relief valve.

1. screw clockwise the pressure relief valve step by step with road tests in-between each adjustment
2. as you screw it down the initial boost will rise more and more quickly.
3. set it so that boost rises quickly as possible to the max level you want BUT does not overshoot the max level set in the points above.
4. when you are happy with this push the knob down to lock it.
5. you may need to make a minor adjustment to the pressure reg at the end to just to ensure that the boost is not going above the max desired pressure.

You can adjust the relief valve so that you get an initial over boost if set aggressively or you can make it very progressive and the onset of boost will be much smoother. You should keep the lengths of the hoses from the nipple through the controller and back to the wastegate as short as possible for the best throttle response to be obtained.

 

after some testing yesterday at mad, we found that the boost controller does,'t work quite as expected, doh

 

oh, why dont it work as you thought.

 

with the stg 1 and original wastegate actuator, i set it up as per the instructions and i had a 1.5 peak with 1 bar held dropping off slightly to 0.9 at the top, which i though was pretty goood, its only when we tried settin git up to give a 1.9 peak with 1.5 held, that the problems arose, we wound it all the way bar half a turn and it made no difference, then literally the last half a turn took it to just over 2 bar peak, back it off a smidge and back to 1,5 peak,

after many ajustments we came back to msd and checked the pressure on teh wastegate actualtor, as it was the original one (12 years old) it was very weak in deed, so stu fitted a -34 and plunbed back up the factory boost piping with a bleed valve in the bleed off pipe to give us some ajustment, spot on -( anyone would think he did stuff like that for a living... ) up the road and the boost levels were spot on as was the fuelling all teh way through the rev and up the gears.

no doubt though you could have got the sameresult with the reg setup with enough time, but i was paying for stus time at the time and just wanted the car to run right,,, so i opted for the easy option and went back to closed loop boost control with the factroy lectron valve, that way, if a fault does occur, boot will be limmited as per the program on the chip.

 

,

so your scrapped the idea completly? are you goin to try and get it workin?

 

might set it up on the bench and with a gauge on the output to see if i can get it to hold a steady output from a varying input, with more pressure on the input side, but i suppose when the car coses on boost teh ammount of back pressure against the actuator increases hence the reason why older weal actuators cant hold boost so i guess it would be quite hard to test other than on the car.

i know how mine is plubed up at the moment gives me what the chip needs/wants.

so i suppose i could just remove the wastgate and compressor nipple connection , reconnect the manual one in and play safe in teh knowledge i can go back to a working system wheni want to.

dan, as you are running a p8, you should be able to run closed loop boost anyway, all you need is a boost contol solenoid like the esocs lectron valve (and the jetted T piece)

 

i'm not intrested in this for my car, as not stayin with the p8, as either gonna get a s8 if simon sorts it out, or t6.

also be goin to twin port actuator, if still have back pressure problems on my turbo.

just was wondering how you got on,

 

it seems the accuracy of the pressure reg is the key, maybe if a finer rage reg was used , a better resolution could be found, ie, the norgren reg says 0-6 bar, when we only need 0-3 say.

 

Dave,

Might not be any use to you now, but i remember way back talking about this with you, as i'd got all the articles off the same austrailian site (cant even remember what it was), but i do remember them doing a follow up, and saying they changed one of the regulators as it didn't perform as well as they'd wanted.
From what i remember they had the exact same problem you've had, and switched to a slightly more expensive one which had much better control.....

 

a haa

might give it a whirl when ive got some free time,

cheers, dave.

 

I'll have a search around and see if i can find the article part II........

 

you have Email

 

i have indeed, cheers bud