Graceland

As you will of read yesterday, i put a question about the voltage on the taxi reading 13.2 volts at hot idle with the aditional earthing strap and a rewire the alternaotr feed and re-terminalling of all the terminals on the battery.

Today my quest for greater voltages, and more reliability, led me to start re-wiring my fuelpump, using the original wires as the trigger wires for a 70amp relay (an ignition relay from any ford sierra, fiesta, escort etc etc).

What i found when i removed the wires from the fuel pump was shocking - black and crusty copper inside the sheithing which obviously had been getting rather hot

Instead of stripping back to find good wire, i untaped the loom in the boot and took nice fresh wire from there for my relay - all is good

Now with the new fuel pump wires (not totally finished, just waiting for my 044 fuel pump now as the original one is as old as the car - preventative maintenance ), and new wiring for the battery and alternator etc etc, the SECS monitor is reading a healthy 13.9 volts at hot idle and cold idle with all electrics off, and this drops to 13.6 volts with the headlights on, and then drops again to 13.1 volts with everything switched on, rising to 13.4 volts if the engine speed is raised to 2000rpm


Pictures of the rewired parts are below


Aditional earth strap using gold plated terminals that are crimped and then soldered to the wire



Positive terminal on the battery showing the new feed from the alternator and other re-terminalled feeds



All connections to the battery - the big fuse holder ontop of the battery is not for an amplifier, but is infact the positive feed for the fuel pump with a 40 amp fuse. The negative feed is of the same size also



This is where the feeds for the fuel pump come thru the boot floor, protected by rubber grommits - they are purposefully left looped like this as i am waiting on an 044 fuel pump been delivered, once this is fitted, along with new filter in a new cradle, i will trim the wires to the correct length and terminate them with gold plated terminals onto the fuel pump



SECS monitor showing hot idle voltage (950rpm, the monitor shows 500rpm due coilpacks, Simon says he will update the software for me soon )




So there you go boys and girls - check those fuelpump feeds as the more work the fuelpump does, the more current it draws and the more chance of the old wiring failing

lamb chops

Great read really must do mine..

Sticky.

iTrader: (4)

lamb chops

So have you wired the secs monitor to the fuel pump wiring?

AlexF

that battery terminal is horrible!!!!

Run ONE cable to a break out point and go from there... it'll be more reliable and safer!

Alex

bud-weis

i believe it connects to the engine/ecu loom

Graceland , how much are 044's nowadays??

BlueSmoke

Man what's with the spaghetti junction going on on your positive battery terminal?

For a guy who always used to tell me he hates talking about his car, you don't do a bad job

R4N SS

iTrader: (6)

mine fuel pump needs rewiring

good thread

Graceland

its informative for other people


the multiple connections on the battery are going to be sorted soon - i'm waiting on a big distribution block arriving


the secs monitor has all 7 wires that it posesses soldered to the terminals in the back of the ECU plug



The 044 pump is costing me a nice figure, i believe a member on here has 4 left now, he may be willing to part with one for a good price too

lamb chops

Yes I realize that’s where they go as standard but sounded like he had it monitoring the fuel pump circuit which I believe is separate.. could be wrong..

Graceland

the fuel pump circuit is controlled by the ECU so thats all good, and with big chunky wires like i have just fitted, i can be assured that the fuelpump is seeing full battery voltage all the time

My secs monitor monitors the voltage to the ecu, and a seperate voltage gauge monitors the rest of the circuits,

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

The fuel pump is originally fed from the ecu power circuit and as such, a bad set of wiring and a poor pump can drop the voltage of other important management items down, so you score two goals with one rewire.

Heres a topic i did about fuel pump issues to keep this topical...
https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=163279

Well done Gracy.

Neil S

iTrader: (1)

Nice one Paul. My re-wire is Here

My cable runs are all as per standard, so nothing hanging down and no redundant wiring anywhere.

I also replaced the fuselinks and re-wired the ECU feeds at the same time

Neil.

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

VERY good advice...

Neil S

iTrader: (1)

Stu, I'm confident the wiring to the ECU and the pump is cock on now, but I'm a little concerned about the voltage still.

I only get 13.5 at the battery with everything off at idle. The alternator reads 14.1V.

However, if I run a jump lead between the alternator and battery, it doesnt raise the battery voltage at all can't get my head around it, but I assume this proves the alternator wiring is OK?

Is my battery voltage sufficient, or should I be re-conditioning the alternator?

Cheers!

Neil.

Graceland

that i also did as the origional wires were looking a bit black close to the battery

RobS

iTrader: (3)

ive run same wire direct from battery to a relay switched by the original wiring, also run big wires from the alternater to battery, starter and new earths to engine & body.

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

Engine/alternator earth suspect is option 1. (Painted brackets?)

Option 2 is battery is poor and taking a permanent current to sustain its life.

rsnissan

iTrader: (9)

interesting read i am also in the middle of doing my fuel system at the mo wiring, quiped lines and an 044.

Replaced my ECU feeds when i did my loom last year.

i am running AWG 8 to the pump fused at the battery etc etc
and use the stock wiring as a trigger.

Neil S

iTrader: (1)

I get the same voltage at the alternator output if I use the battery earth, so I guess I'm looking at option 2

Cheers Dude!

Neil.

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

Bingo.

_DAN_

Interesting read mate.

Lee_R21Turbo

iTrader: (1)

Are these suitable to helping with situations like Gracie has on his + ive battery terminal....

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...lation&doy=7m2

Anonymous

After you have done the mods you suggest, fit an accuvolt system & supply up to 16v (adjustable) to your pumps at all times. Will supply 16V even if the alternator fails & the battery volts drop to 9.6v. I would not atempt a Topspeed run without it.
Rod

pee vee

So the -ve from the pump, does that just go to the body of the car in the boot?
or right back to the battery too?

Anonymous

To the battery of course helps to have battery in the boot.

pee vee

thanks rod
sadly, dont have that feature in my motor! lol

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

grace


I had my wireing upgraded ahwile ago now form the relay to the feul pump and i have only got 10.8 volts while the car is running

now when i put the voltage tester on the battery while the engine is running i have got 13.9 volts it earthed in 3 places .......i was thinking would i need to up grade my fuel pump relays to something higher because i recon my fuel pump /ignition relays are working that good

just thought i would ask the question ?

the car feuling ok even with th 10.8 volts and i have got grp a pump on it aswell

cheers Marco

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

10.8volts is worrying Marco, best get her checked out as when she starts drawing big current (On boost) your in danger of the pump stalling mate.

pee vee

Stu @ M Developments

just as a definative answer, could you tell us
what voltages are optimal/ideal at

Altenator
Battery
Fuel pump
SECS/ECU

would all be 14v ideally at idle?

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

Correct, but hard to achieve, but in reality, 13.3 is a minimum ideally.

pee vee

ok thanks!
will check mine at the weekend

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

Hi Stu

would i be better off changing the fuel/ignitions relays to a higher ampage or something like that ?

the car is off the rd at the min because of the diff so it wouldn't take too long to sort out

cheers Marco

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

Impossible to say as i dont know how its been rewired pal.

Ideal is a live, fused, direct from battery to pump and this being activated by a single stand alone relay thats operated by the existing wire.

DazC

iTrader: (1)

The relays are not the problem Marco. It's the wiring and everything that the wiring feeds.

3 door pump wiring is the worst out of the entire Cossie range from my experience.

twitchyrear

good read

Matt

100% good advice to sort this on your old shitters!

i feel sure mine reads 14.2 volts at idle (at ecu) per the secs monitor (total new engine loom, new fuel pump loom with twin relays, extra earth straps, 90amp alternator)

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

Hi Stu

mine it's not wired directly from the battery

it has been re wired from the original exhisting wire that come after the relay basicaly cut the old wire and up graded thicker wire to the pump


so i would be better off in sending a new wire from the battery to the pump on a switch or something like that

i'm shite with electrics

DazC


10.8 was good it was only 9.8 before that


cheers Marco

Csm

Brilliant topic peeps

I know for a fact my wiring at the pump is cack an dthat cheap fordy conector plug is seriously gash that breaks

Im on a mission to get mine all sorted this year

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

Matt

does your moniter read the voltage coming from the fuel pump or is that genral voltage ??

Marco