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re-maping a re-mapped FRS

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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 08:21 PM
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Default re-maping a re-mapped FRS

bought a FRS yesterday, really nice straight car it was just filthy :-( its got the following done

Pumaspeed de-cat
Uprated coil pack
Magnecore leads
K&N Gen2
AP 6 paddle clutch
Pumaspeed remap..

Now to me the car feels slightly poorly mapped, if you know what i mean? a bit lumpy and the boost just comes in in a big lump..

Today I have ordered a blueflame cat back system,
The things I want to know are the following,

What are the advantages of running the actuator pipe direct. (and do i have to leave the amal valve plugged in or unplug it)?

Is it worth buying the forge actuator with blue spring?

should I have it remaped again? or buy something like dreamscience?

what boost (roughly) should it be running?

Sorry for all the questions but just gaggin to do stuff to it..


Last edited by cozzymatt; Jun 21, 2009 at 08:25 PM.
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 08:30 PM
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Whoever will be able tuning it will answer those questions for you.
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 08:53 PM
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Get over to the FRS section on the RSOC site and they will sort you out with what you need regarding maps and running direct actuator wise.
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 09:03 PM
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tried registering on there, cant do it with hotmail, emailed them twice with no reply so thought i would ask on here...
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 09:50 PM
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Now to me the car feels slightly poorly mapped, if you know what i mean? a bit lumpy and the boost just comes in in a big lump..

Pumagreed, what can I say?

Today I have ordered a blueflame cat back system,

Decent enough, make nice Manifold's as well. But Milltek exhausts are just sex

What are the advantages of running the actuator pipe direct. (and do i have to leave the amal valve plugged in or unplug it)?

Leave the solenoid (amal) plugged into the electrical connector, this stops the engine management light from coming on the dash. Otherwise, nothing else needs to be connected to it. The difference in running a Forge actuator or a VERY good map is unbelievable. Setup the same as you would on an RS Turbo, straight from actuator to compressor. Wind the actuator arm fully before fitting, then turn opposit direction 2x 360 degree turns. This will give you a good basis to start with adjusting boost, but you must have a proper boost gauge installed to keep an eye on that rising pressure. Much more responsive and controllable drive, not so erratic.

Is it worth buying the forge actuator with blue spring?

Straight to compressor, yes the blue spring.

should I have it remaped again? or buy something like dreamscience?

Taking the solenoid out of the loop, means the fueling is no longer controlled as efficiently. So to have a actuator setup, you need a decent remap like Bluefin or better still, dreamscience, Unichip etc. to pump enough fuel in to compensate.

what boost (roughly) should it be running?

GT2560 21psi max, a lot push them further, but if you're planning on nailing it around frequently, set the actuator to peak 21 and it'll drop and hold at 19psi....DO NOT fit a bleed valve or anything silly to the actuator hose like a tuning company in this country did to so many FRS'

Hope that helps
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 10:02 PM
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thats a massive help mate, thankyou very much

it just seems so irratic all the boost comes in together and there is a slight stutter/flatspot around 5k.. would be a lot nicer to drive if it was smoother..

I have posted another thread but i will ask the question here aswell,
If i bought a second hand bluefin could i use it on my car or will it only work on the one it was bought for?
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 10:06 PM
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You'll have to send it back to Bluefin to have it reprogrammed, only works on one car I'm afraid. Worth going elsewhere if you want some serious performance out of the car, but if you're just going to do the odd track day etc. Bluefin is more than fine

The flat spot is down to the standard mapping, unless its very jerky and can be classed as a missfire. But the 5k cough is a common occurance on the Ford map. Look up AE and AF maps. You really need to go on the RSOC, millions of threads of the same titles posted every week.

But after fitting the actuator, you'll immediately feel a great difference, the power delivery is still immense, but more gradual

Last edited by COCHYN; Jun 21, 2009 at 10:07 PM.
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Old May 29, 2017 | 10:53 AM
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i dont know what is worse - my spelling, Jacking old threads or starting new ones about subjects already discussed LMFAO

here goes;

Running forged engine, K&N, Decat, Mild race exhaust, Standard turbo, Blue spring Forge actuator, standard injectors, ap paddle clutch, massive front mount intercooler, T250 pipework (turbo facing downwards) and denso ITV24'S - will blue fin or Dreamscience increase my bhp more than the advertised 25%

cheers guys - iknow iknow with all these mods i should get it live mapped - been quoted Ł599 for stage 2 plus dyno time poss thats nearly a Ł1000 - id be happy pushing 300bhp - with mods and Generic map

Also 2 more things - how the feck do u remove ECU security bolt and how do i tell which map my ecu has (AE or AF ETC) am using FORSCAN -
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Old May 29, 2017 | 03:26 PM
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To remove the bolt from the shield just cut a slot in it with a dremell and unscrew it. It's easier if you can get a spanner on the screwdriver to crack it loose. Don't get if to hot.

I would love to know if you can tell if it's been mapped ?
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Old May 29, 2017 | 03:57 PM
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take it so Sabre.

My mate had a re-map done there a few weeks back. 300bhp on 97 RON fuel, with no mods other than a new actuator and Forge dump valve, all for Ł800ish

It's a different car now...
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Old May 29, 2017 | 04:08 PM
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fuck me a 8yr old thread bump

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Old May 29, 2017 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 1-PD
fuck me a 8yr old thread bump
Not the first either Steve. They wring the shit out of them

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Old May 30, 2017 | 01:38 PM
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problem is any tuning company will say as they never built the engine its not their problem.

been there done that
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Old May 30, 2017 | 06:32 PM
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well,, now im really in the dark with mappers....so many contradicting stories......
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Old May 30, 2017 | 08:39 PM
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It's always the same chance you take wherever you go. You're putting more power into an engine that you don't know the history of.
better in my opinion to take it to someone with a good reputation of mapping the FRS than plugging a DIY Dreamscience map on and taking your chance.
Personally, having seen my 3dr and my mate's FRS mapped at Sabre, I'd say you're in as safe hands as anywhere.
I've known people spend thousands on rebuilding an engine, only for it to shit itself on the rollers during a mapping session.
At the end of the day, you pays your money and takes your chances
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Old May 31, 2017 | 06:39 PM
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He must be really laid back to just accept it and fork out loads more money for the 2nd time!

Last edited by STeve; Jun 4, 2017 at 12:44 PM.
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Old May 31, 2017 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cossynut2
He must be really laid back to just accept it and fork out loads more money for the 2nd time!
more money than sense
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 12:36 PM
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i think if your car is going on rollers it is at your own risk TBF......
its a well known engine - from the t250-

im pondering between DPC sabre and Dreaming...either way gonna fork out 4-700...so migh aswell get my ass ready for open wallet surgery!
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 02:16 PM
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DPC is where i'd be spending my money. They're spot on
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Old Jun 11, 2017 | 06:02 PM
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.bhjjjjnnn

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Old Sep 9, 2017 | 08:59 AM
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ok so what i did in the end was buy a DPC stage2 ecu and fob....wacked that in and well the cars fly's now...did some research on the mods (actuator , injectors, fuel pump etc) all matched up but mine is plus fully forged and k&n

plans are now to get a bugger turbo , manifold and downpipe plus i have a 3" Haywood and Scott exhaust also waiting to go on....

Need to pop on to DPC and get an AFR check and/or remap/dyno make sure everythang is tickerty boo's
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Old Sep 9, 2017 | 08:16 PM
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I am running dreamscience race plus and forge actuator running direct can't fault it. I know it's a big old school now but it makes the car so much more drive able
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Old May 17, 2018 | 12:04 AM
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Well well well.....when i finally got the car to the Tuner all the cracks are starting to appear! Car has been in limp mode all this time - conversation went like this:

Tuner: " Have you not noticed any loss of power?"

Me: "No , Since my ownership of any RS / Zetec Turbo , I've had so many problems I dont actually know what full power feels like!"

Tuner: " LOL - if i put it on the rollers we would be lucky to get 200 BHP"

Oh man!

Ill post results once its mapped!
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Old May 17, 2018 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by t230
Well well well.....when i finally got the car to the Tuner all the cracks are starting to appear! Car has been in limp mode all this time - conversation went like this:

Tuner: " Have you not noticed any loss of power?"

Me: "No , Since my ownership of any RS / Zetec Turbo , I've had so many problems I dont actually know what full power feels like!"

Tuner: " LOL - if i put it on the rollers we would be lucky to get 200 BHP"

Oh man!

Ill post results once its mapped!
If you thought it was performing well in limp mode once the car is sorted out properly what will you think! Over the moon won't come close to it!!
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Old May 17, 2018 | 09:37 AM
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Are you on the Frs ecu or did you go back to aftermarket ?

Where have you taken it, Sabre ?

I am interested how you get on, cheers.
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Old May 20, 2018 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by big_wasa
Are you on the Frs ecu or did you go back to aftermarket ?

Where have you taken it, Sabre ?

I am interested how you get on, cheers.
Big_wasa hey mate - you bought the engine plate of me on ebay

Yep went to Sabre

The results are amazing - i will explain everything

So due to health reason could not work on car anymore - so it was time to let them sort issues re map and dyno -

Got a call while the car was there and they explained that they couldnt remap as there was an issue. The problem was that there was a charge cooler pump circuit error - and thus the car has been in limp mode since ive taken ownership (as above never knew real power cause i had so many probs) but these guys are top notch!

Basically my FRS MK1 was a reshell at some point - so when the guy built it up he added ST170 luxeries which in fact a good idea , you get climate control and front heated screen etc - and to do this the person who built it ( i think they are on here) used ST170 engine fusebox loom, dashboard loom but with FRS ecu engine loom and FRS loom to Lambda etc.

Now to bypass this a circuit had been built for this (i know this now ) with a relay when i first bought the car i noticed but thought "what bodge is this" thought it was for a amp or something so i removed it at the time. That then put the car in complete limp mode with no errors , well no engine light anyway. so im driving around doing mad trips to Istanbul and back lol thinking im running 280bhp lol no siree bob!

So anywho - the point is Sabre cudnt get the FRS firmware on there but then they could so that was good news! And yes is stuck with FORD ECU .

SO the finals result were 360 bhp on a hybrid turbo with front mount, 660cc injectors, dw pump, nice reliable with launch control , pops and bangs, real power!

APOLOGIES they achieve 360 bhp but had to back off because of DET . This was due to the engine being rebuilt at some stage, head being skimmed with no thicker gasket gave slightly higher compression ( engine health check was good though) so they backed off to 340 bhp.

Very happy for a daily driver, instant power, top top guys at Sabre.

Whats the situ with your @big_wasa - sorry for essay just had about 3 Dowe Egberts or whatever its called lol - mm might try some coffee eye drops lol
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Old May 20, 2018 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by cossynut2
If you thought it was performing well in limp mode once the car is sorted out properly what will you think! Over the moon won't come close to it!!
Picked the car up Friday - MOT was booked in Saturday at my local (not pub!) i didnt actually sleep Friday night as I was so excited to drive it -

Just imagine

2003 bought T230 - cutting out stalling on the way home , problematic ever since till i broke it 2016- never felt full power ever!

2015 bought T250 - again felt full power then actuator started going , never felt full power

2016 tried FRS MK1 ecu with zetec turbo - again nice, got rid of my idle problems but no power lol

2016 buy an RS reshell - near vgc , Limp mode everyday - so thats like 14 years of no power - now BOOM i have 340 so im being really really careful! I can finally start concentrating on handling and looks rather than worry isit gonna cut out on th M25 in traffic...ive enjoyed cleaning her too!
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Old May 20, 2018 | 01:19 PM
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Cool, the more info the better mate. I did know about the charge cooler thing. There are a few circuits that the ecu monitors.

My party trick is using the Oem ford ecu, I work out the pin outs so you can use them anyware. My other pattion is kitcars even though I am to tall and fat for it to be safe or practable. So loads of people have installed zetecs of all flavours into all sorts bassed on the pin outs. As an example other than kitcars, moggy minors, mgb’s, boats and all sorts.
This is a cheap and cheerfull way of running a Zetec. It starts on the button and is reliable and mot emissions ready from the getgo. You just have to except they are limited in power by the mapping. This is where the Rs comes in.

215bhp out of the box the sky / wallet is the limit. I just need to fit it into to something now.

I fitted the plate this morning, I am after the bracket that bolts to the top of it if you have one kicking about.





Cheers warren

Last edited by big_wasa; May 20, 2018 at 07:51 PM.
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Old May 20, 2018 | 04:06 PM
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This is looking favouret
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Old May 21, 2018 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by t230
Picked the car up Friday - MOT was booked in Saturday at my local (not pub!) i didnt actually sleep Friday night as I was so excited to drive it -

Just imagine

2003 bought T230 - cutting out stalling on the way home , problematic ever since till i broke it 2016- never felt full power ever!

2015 bought T250 - again felt full power then actuator started going , never felt full power

2016 tried FRS MK1 ecu with zetec turbo - again nice, got rid of my idle problems but no power lol

2016 buy an RS reshell - near vgc , Limp mode everyday - so thats like 14 years of no power - now BOOM i have 340 so im being really really careful! I can finally start concentrating on handling and looks rather than worry isit gonna cut out on th M25 in traffic...ive enjoyed cleaning her too!
Glad you have finally got your car running right, sometimes you have to let the experts sort things out! Its nice when you have confidence in your car and you only have to clean it!
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Old May 23, 2018 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by cossynut2
Glad you have finally got your car running right, sometimes you have to let the experts sort things out! Its nice when you have confidence in your car and you only have to clean it!
Yes! Thank You! I have wasted my time doing stuff, changing sensors, trying pectel monitors etc etc and for what lol i was just too tired and fedup both physically and mentally - best thing now leave it to the PRO's....

Im still gonna whip out my engine and box myself lol to get it forged at sum point but everything good for now!
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Old May 23, 2018 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by big_wasa
Cool, the more info the better mate. I did know about the charge cooler thing. There are a few circuits that the ecu monitors.

My party trick is using the Oem ford ecu, I work out the pin outs so you can use them anyware. My other pattion is kitcars even though I am to tall and fat for it to be safe or practable. So loads of people have installed zetecs of all flavours into all sorts bassed on the pin outs. As an example other than kitcars, moggy minors, mgb’s, boats and all sorts.
This is a cheap and cheerfull way of running a Zetec. It starts on the button and is reliable and mot emissions ready from the getgo. You just have to except they are limited in power by the mapping. This is where the Rs comes in.

215bhp out of the box the sky / wallet is the limit. I just need to fit it into to something now.

I fitted the plate this morning, I am after the bracket that bolts to the top of it if you have one kicking about.





Cheers warren
https://youtu.be/s6QkQ7U7toY

The way i Forged my first zetec turbo engine was " Ye Olde backstreet/ back alley jobbe" LOL

Basically (on a standard zetec 2.0) we used thicker gasket, skimmed the pistons, heat treated & peen shotted the conrods and added uprated valve springs oh and ARP conrod bolts -

That engine was sold on ebay and the guy has mapped to 250bhp but is having clutch issues so i dont know whats going on with that - so yeah that is a budget way of lowering compression for turbo application
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