When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Something will break. You have rubber/plastic in the engine mounts and box mounts andca rotating shaft with a floating center mount bearing, of course you have movement and movement creates misalignment in any driveshaft.
I never speak without having experience. Been there done that.
Makes sense, I assumed the rest of the movement in the slider and uj along with the rubber centre bearing would take up any movement. I didn't think the donut / doughnut was supposed to be used to take up any flex like a uj as that would lead to it failing? (I think...but may be wrong). I thought it was only there to take up shunt for nvh.
I have the new donut so I can bolt it in as standard....just wanted to remove a possible point of future failure, I assumed the big torque had lead to the premature failure of the last one....that and also the previous mis alignment when my engine mount broke up and allowed the engine to lean over a bit.
I do appreciate all comments though as I appreciate most of you on here have far more experience than me and know much more....this is a learning project for me.
It is all back together and on its wheels. Rears are toeing out loads so need to check the geo.
Went to drive it around the block and it won't start...I had already had the intlet and exchaust manifolds off along with the injectors and fuel rail so it will be a case of re-checking everything. I will whip the plugs out to and check for spark, probably something silly. I may have just flooded it.
I fort I was the one that had the bad look mate .
it will be something simple I bet
Yeah, neither of us have been lucky. I have a feeling that I flooded it but will check the plugs in the morning, if not then it will be something daft.
After I bought it I did realise that I have never even used a lathe before, I guess I will be watching lots of you tube vids. I don't think the motorsport world has much to worry about in reality....I don't even know where to buy the metal.
OMG Toby you do no they use sharp tools lol
you will love it mate that's me out off a job lol
Been watching a few you tube guides and learning lots already, got a lot to learn before I have even a small % of what you know.
I think I have found the problem as to why the car won't start. Mark Shead gave me a few pointers and I have found that now the engine is back exactly where it should be the crank sensor is pushing on the anti roll bar, I think it has moved the sensor. I will check it tomorrow and hope the pulley has not hit the sensor.....more little things to sort in the development.
Awesome mate i'll have an alloy block please ���� hope you suss the problem
Lol, you might need to wait a bit longer on the block....I haven't watched the second part of the how to on you tube yet...I expect that is near the end.
It wasn't the crank trigger after all, it was the little plug in the dizzy cap that has the hall sensor on it, the plug had come off whilst I had put the hart inlet back on...starts on first click of the key now.
Will take it out briefly later...even though the rear geo is out.
Well I have now driven it with the 6 degree in there......what a load of old rubbish, wish I hadn't bothered...........
NOT, It is brilliant, even though it is on nothing more than base settings the camber is closer to where it should be, it doesn't squat as much and feels very well planted. No knocks or noises. I am looking forward to dialling in the settings and seeing what it can really do. Just need to work out what feels best after I set the ride height and then get it corner weighted and setup properly.
Well I have now driven it with the 6 degree in there......what a load of old rubbish, wish I hadn't bothered...........
NOT, It is brilliant, even though it is on nothing more than base settings the camber is closer to where it should be, it doesn't squat as much and feels very well planted. No knocks or noises. I am looking forward to dialling in the settings and seeing what it can really do. Just need to work out what feels best after I set the ride height and then get it corner weighted and setup properly.
Very impressed.
told you I didn't think it was going to be all that either lol but it is night and day and the amount of understeer you loose is brilliant
Grabbed an hour tonight, set the rear ride height and checked the geo, it was 2 deg neg camber and over 1 degree tow out, so have adjusted and current is at 1.6 neg and 30 degrees toe in now, will get it to 1 deg neg camber and 25 degrees toe In to see how that feels, that should be 3mm overall toe in based on 16 inch wheel. Just need to re centre the wheel in the arch then measure and re set then test. I like how easy the 6 degree is to adjust.
Today I got the rear tracking to the desired 3mm toe in (about 25 degrees on a 16 inch wheel). 1.3 deg of neg camber to they that and the wheels look nice and centred in the arches. Went for a run out and it no longer squats under full power, had only one little slide but that was due to a less than straight bit of road, full power in 2nd and it didn't even really need any oppo, it just pulled out of it.
Very impressed with the 6 degree beam, Mark Shead, Jay and MK plus others said they are night and day different, I guess it could also benefit me more due to the short wheel base?
Just need to fix the 4th gear jump out but I think the box will need to come out and go to Bara.
I suppose you mean 25 minutes instead of degrees, otherwise the wheels would almost be perpendiculair under the car.
Good that you've happy with the 6 degree beam. It indeed makes the car understeer a lot less and also makes it more predictable. I wouldn't think that it makes it squat less though. Perhaps you have set the ride height higher now, which does reduce squat.
I was going to contact you, Ian. The bloke that sold it to me turned on the switch and then pulled the lever to tighten and engage the drive belt, this seems odd to me as you are reaching over the chuck then moving your hand back over the turning chuck. Is there a reason not to engage belt and then turn on switch or is it too much load on the switch? It was supplied new to his dad in 1951
As I don't no this lathe I could not say but on
my lathe I have to reach over the top to engage the drive to the chuck in my photo it's the top lever on the left witch I then pull to the right and the fun begins 😀😀
Last edited by COLEYST200; Feb 19, 2017 at 01:33 PM.
I guess I will be watching lots of you tube vids. I don't think the motorsport world has much to worry about in reality....I don't even know where to buy the metal.
