Does anyone know what they cost new?

Been offered one, brand new & unused.

JP.

 

3.5k i think thats what burton sells the 500 205 block.

Paul S had one for sale not long back dunno if it sold tho.

 

3.5k that's mad Ł
i wonder how many of them they have sold
i wonder wot the price from ford was back on the day
it's the next mod for my focos a 200 block but not at them prices

 

3400 for the new alloy block,prob plus vat but still the one to go for

 

The alloy block does de value a new 200 block but any decent one has to be worth Ł2k but that would just convince me to pay the extra for the alloy one. (I plan to go 2.2 or 2.4 depending on how mr Shead wants to spec it)

 

 

I'd never pay that in a million years lol I got a used 200 block from my motorsport for 500 then had liners fitted far cheaper

 

so this was a good deal then you think?

Brand new cosworth 200 block standard bore,brand new ggr pistons standard size & compression ,new arp main cap stud & nut kit,new arp head stud & nut kit,new 2wd 80psi high pressure oil pump,kent bd14 inlet cam useD but mint.

Ł1700.

 

That's a good deal for sure. I've seen used 200 blocks on standard bore fetch Ł1000. If it's a Turkish 99 cast block you could get them for Ł800 new a few years back run one in my car for a while, their not as strong as an original 200 block but only break when silly power are put through them.

 

great price....who sold it..is there any left?

 

Yes it's a 99 cast but only plan to put 400/400 through it anyway.

 

Good price but when you pick it up put the arp head studs in the bin.

 

For that price I would just dig a bit deeper
And go for a alloy block

 

Lol

My mate is selling a fresh un run ( built by xpower ) engine
Minus cams and in/outlet for a little more than that with no joy

 

Can I have his number then please ?

 

My low miles, standard bore, bare production block sold for Ł1500 recently, took a while to go but the buyer was over the moon when he found my advert.

Alloy is the way to go these days but I would say that is the going rate now for a new 200 block with the extras in the deal

 

I will message you later his number

Off the top of my head the spec is as follows

200 block
Squirt jets
6 long studs
( think it .5 over size )
Balanced crank
Spot peened rods
Cosworth racing pistons
( can't remember if it's a 2wd/4wd or dry sumped )
Either way they can be changed but think it did end up
Wet sumped
Wrc h/gasket
4x4 head
Fully ported by Neil roper
New guides
Re cut seats ( either that or new ones )
I have prob missed something

He had a few Messers so please be sure its
Along the lines of what your after please

 

Good spec, I would have thought that would be 4-5k

 

Alloy blocks not quite so simple lol. I bet with the long studs crank pistons and rods you don't get much change from 7 grand if not more

 

was that the rs500 block? did the guy who had the car buy it in the end?

 

The amount of used 2wd engines I've seen forsale for 4K ect is crazy

 

It is cheap to have squirt jets and studs in them, those are options but you are right, I guess you would need another Ł2k for an arrow crank and the rods n Pistons. Plus head work, cam(s), new oil pump and someone to bolt it together....plus gaskets and other little bits.

 

Going on the assumption you wouldn't bolt 20 year old pinto parts in it lol crank 2-3 grand pistons a grand rods a grand long studs depending what you use 300 to a grand. Adds up fast.

 

No that one was someone elses 500 block that was found in Europe, I don't think it went back to the original car.

 

Apples for apples a new alloy block is about Ł2k more than the same spec new 200 block, after that all the add ons apply to both anyway!

So a fully built up like for like engine is just Ł2k more going the alloy route.

They weigh half that of a 200 block, in my single seater 25kg is a massive saving which is why I sold my 200 one and plan to replace it with an alloy version.

 

Be more than 2 grand if done properly soon adds up. I payed 500 for a block 1500 for liners 250 for a standard crack. 2 grand for pistons and rods 700 for long studs I think and about a grand for machining that included a line bore on the crank journals. That's 5 1/2 grand that block will be good for 650-700 bhp im told. With out doubt the alloy is far better you can have more cc and go strocker. But will cost a fair bit more than 2 grand extra or I'd be doing it.

 

Surely everything you mentioned above could be used on a alloy block if you wanted to? What am I missing?

 

i can't see the point myself in using an alloy block without a proper crank. I stopped at changing my crank as standard is good for what I want. Others who can afford it fair play as then you have more options.
That's the extra oil sray jets crank them two are expensive

 

I get what you are saying but you could keep it all the same. I must admit that the crank cost puts me off and if you are going large on most of it you might as well build the ultimate. Odd thing is, I don't want any more power but love the concept and my YB is a little smokey, despite having good leak down and compression.

 

I'm happy with my block it will very very fast as a road car when back. If it was a track car or mark said really you need a better crank then I'd consider it as an option but for me I have to draw the line somewhere as all in all it's very expensive iver way mate

 

Totally mate, you are going for much more power than me and Marks engines have proven this power without the need for the block, I am not dissing yours at all. To be honest the attraction for me is the weight saving. I love the idea of 2.2 but don't need it, I just feel that if I rebuild it I want something interesting to try. 500bhp is easily enough for my little road car.

 

If I could justify it I'd do it but I think realistically it works out a fair bit more if you use a proper crank. Yours will be a very very serious bit of kit with the development going into it

 

So that 12k all alloy new engine forsale a while back was bargain.

What pistons Andy thats a lot of dosh for them.

 

I've cp pistons to marks spec to suit the longer rods.

 

That not even taking into account the smith and jones
New Head as well
A nice piece of kit tho that works

 

As I said, a like for like spec build with only the alloy block being the difference then it simply now adds Ł2k to my budget, but saves 25kg in weight.

 

The alloy block doesn't work out much more than buying a 200 block at current prices and having it linered. In the long run when a linered 200 block needs the liners replacing, it's another Ł1400 to buy and for them, the alloy block the liners are Ł100 each and u can fit them yourself. Alloy is the way forward for sure.

 

I just went and bought 2 boxes of cat litter, 16kg in each. I had to carry them from the shop to the car, probably 300 meters away...32kg at the end of that I was thinking hmmm 25kg saving on the front axle is a massive amount of weight, by the time I put on the rear carbon fibre boot lid I am over 32kg saved.

The thing I cannot get my head around is if you go for 2.2 or 2.4 then you are not going to rev it that hard, do you therefore need cams and pocketed pistons? I get that you don't want a really old crank in there but my car has only done 36k on the engine...?

I expect I just need to be patient and save up for the full spec engine, cams, crank, Rods and Pistons and hope that I can re-use my head after it has had some porting done and a rebuild.

Would a 2.2 or 2.4 ever be revved above 7,000 rpm?

 

Totally agree with this.
A linered 200 block and decent crank all in good condition would be fine for 6/700hp

Cheers Paul

 

Jenspeed used a stock rods and crank for over 800bhp in his mk2 escort.

Hmmm do it !!!!!!