MK6 escort "back to mint" - *updated 23/08/05*
24-05-2005, 12:52 PM
#1
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
MK6 escort "back to mint" - *updated 23/08/05*
Just to prove that I do have an interest in cars - not just music and ripping the p**s out of madmac! 
I bought this R reg Amparo Blue Si off of my sisters boyfriend. Its a well straight car with a mint (and I mean mint!) interior and good bodywork..... well some of it!
The car has potential to be brought back to mint so first off I decided to, with the help of my old man, make a start on the body work.
Before we started as you can see below the front bumper was f*cked and theres some surface rust on the car as well - out first job though was to fix the bumper!
Bumper Repair
---------------------------
First off we drilled the ends of the cracks to stop them spreading:
Then using a metal file fettled down the edges of the crack:
Chipping out all the hard foam at the back was a pain in the arse!
Crack!
Cutting some aluminium mesh to size:
My old man is convinced ally mesh would be best to use - along with filler. I personally think he knows it too - I reckon he cant fibreglass! But anyway we layed down a layer of filler over the crack, put the messh on top of this and then more filler.
On the Business side of the bumper we added another layer of filler:
and started rubbing down when dry using very course sandpaper!
After initial layers and sandiong:
After a bit more:
Now at this point my camera died and couldn't find the charger!
During this time we filled and sanded using progressivly finer grades of wet and try and filling putty.
BUT I found the charger just in time after the second layer of primer went on!
First layer of blue going on tonight! wooohoooo!
ta for reading
ST
I bought this R reg Amparo Blue Si off of my sisters boyfriend. Its a well straight car with a mint (and I mean mint!) interior and good bodywork..... well some of it!
The car has potential to be brought back to mint so first off I decided to, with the help of my old man, make a start on the body work.
Before we started as you can see below the front bumper was f*cked and theres some surface rust on the car as well - out first job though was to fix the bumper!
Bumper Repair
---------------------------
First off we drilled the ends of the cracks to stop them spreading:
Then using a metal file fettled down the edges of the crack:
Chipping out all the hard foam at the back was a pain in the arse!
Crack!
Cutting some aluminium mesh to size:
My old man is convinced ally mesh would be best to use - along with filler. I personally think he knows it too - I reckon he cant fibreglass! But anyway we layed down a layer of filler over the crack, put the messh on top of this and then more filler.
On the Business side of the bumper we added another layer of filler:
and started rubbing down when dry using very course sandpaper!
After initial layers and sandiong:
After a bit more:
Now at this point my camera died and couldn't find the charger!
During this time we filled and sanded using progressivly finer grades of wet and try and filling putty.
BUT I found the charger just in time after the second layer of primer went on!
First layer of blue going on tonight! wooohoooo!
ta for reading
ST
24-05-2005, 07:13 PM
#4
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got the first coat of colour on! I was a bit worried at first as it seemed a bit bright!
First give it a wash down with water and fine grade wet n dry!
Then a wife over with meths and leave to dry:
Then let the spraying commence!
Only the first coat of colour and so far so good. A slight run in the paint but no orange peel type finish - yet!
More to come!
I was a bit worried at first as it seemed a bit bright!First give it a wash down with water and fine grade wet n dry!
Then a wife over with meths and leave to dry:
Then let the spraying commence!
Only the first coat of colour and so far so good. A slight run in the paint but no orange peel type finish - yet!
More to come!
24-05-2005, 11:10 PM
#5
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Join Date: May 2003
Location: SE
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dont take this the wrong way mate... but IMO If you have used just filler and mesh, the crack will reappear/filler will fall out more than likely... What you couldve done was use a hot knife (gas/eletric type) or soldering iron with a flat end to melt the mesh into the bumper from behind this would be stronger, ideally you would use a strip of plastic welding ribbon also to fill the crack on the front ... or use the poly urethane "cold" welding kit (bit like araldite) then use the filler to smooth... But it may be a bit to late now sorry
Plus as the blue is just a base coat you only need to put that on in lots of thin coats just to cover, you wont get orange peel on basecoat, try helping it to flash off (loose the wetness) by flicking a hot air gun across it, use the air movement rather than heat to help it on ts way... that way it wont run, and will cover nicely, then before fully dry blow the clear laquer over 1 coat leave to flash off for 10 minutes then a double wet coat... but be careful as that will run like a bitch 
Plus as the blue is just a base coat you only need to put that on in lots of thin coats just to cover, you wont get orange peel on basecoat, try helping it to flash off (loose the wetness) by flicking a hot air gun across it, use the air movement rather than heat to help it on ts way... that way it wont run, and will cover nicely, then before fully dry blow the clear laquer over 1 coat leave to flash off for 10 minutes then a double wet coat
... but be careful as that will run like a bitch
25-05-2005, 07:13 AM
#6
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Damo V
Dont take this the wrong way mate... but IMO If you have used just filler and mesh, the crack will reappear/filler will fall out more than likely... What you couldve done was use a hot knife (gas/eletric type) or soldering iron with a flat end to melt the mesh into the bumper from behind this would be stronger, ideally you would use a strip of plastic welding ribbon also to fill the crack on the front ... or use the poly urethane "cold" welding kit (bit like araldite) then use the filler to smooth... But it may be a bit to late now sorry
Plus as the blue is just a base coat you only need to put that on in lots of thin coats just to cover, you wont get orange peel on basecoat, try helping it to flash off (loose the wetness) by flicking a hot air gun across it, use the air movement rather than heat to help it on ts way... that way it wont run, and will cover nicely, then before fully dry blow the clear laquer over 1 coat leave to flash off for 10 minutes then a double wet coat... but be careful as that will run like a bitch
Plus as the blue is just a base coat you only need to put that on in lots of thin coats just to cover, you wont get orange peel on basecoat, try helping it to flash off (loose the wetness) by flicking a hot air gun across it, use the air movement rather than heat to help it on ts way... that way it wont run, and will cover nicely, then before fully dry blow the clear laquer over 1 coat leave to flash off for 10 minutes then a double wet coat
... but be careful as that will run like a bitch Its the first time i've done a project like this. The "plastic welding" seems a great idea but I know my oldman would have sacriificed a soildering iron for that!
Seriously would it be ok to use a hairdryer at a distance when doing the point?
25-05-2005, 08:24 AM
#7
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Join Date: May 2003
Location: SE
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
could probably blow a hairdryeron hot around 10 inches away... remembere though its the movement not the heat as a rule.... move it as though you are spraying
Trending Topics
25-05-2005, 09:04 AM
#9
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Damo V
could probably blow a hairdryeron hot around 10 inches away... remembere though its the movement not the heat as a rule.... move it as though you are spraying
What we will do is go over that base coat with a fine wet and dry - wash down - then spray again!
ta for the advice
25-05-2005, 09:05 AM
#10
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Damo V
could probably blow a hairdryeron hot around 10 inches away... remembere though its the movement not the heat as a rule.... move it as though you are spraying
What we will do is go over that base coat with a fine wet and dry - wash down - then spray again!
ta for the advice
25-05-2005, 11:39 AM
#11
Virgin
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I always use a soldering iron to repair cracks. One point to add is that if you do need to weld new plastic in make sure the two types of plastic are the same. The plastic can usually be identified by a code on the back. It will be something like "ABS", etc.
If you can't find the code just make sure you use a piece from that same source - ie a piece of bumper to repair a bumper , a piece of side molding to repair a side molding etc etc .
If you can't find the code just make sure you use a piece from that same source - ie a piece of bumper to repair a bumper , a piece of side molding to repair a side molding etc etc .
31-05-2005, 08:01 AM
#14
Virgin
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sitting at my computer
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
looks very very nice, i'm glad i found this actually cos i have a couple of similar cracks in my front bumper and a crac / hole in the rear to be sorted......
reading this is almost like a guide for how to do it
good to see another mk6
reading this is almost like a guide for how to do it
good to see another mk6
05-06-2005, 12:29 PM
#15
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
cheers for all the tips peeps
Unfortunatly after that last pic was taken disaster struck!
When applying the second coat of laquer it ran - BADLY
So we had to wait for it to harden and then take it all off again right back to the bumper plastic!
So we started again with the filling etc...
And we used grey rather than white primer.
So far its looking like this! Yep its finshed! Just needs to go back on the car now and a fooking good wash!
After a week or two I'll give the whole thing a good autoglymin'
ta
ST
Unfortunatly after that last pic was taken disaster struck!
When applying the second coat of laquer it ran - BADLY
So we had to wait for it to harden and then take it all off again
right back to the bumper plastic! So we started again with the filling etc...
And we used grey rather than white primer.
So far its looking like this! Yep its finshed! Just needs to go back on the car now and a fooking good wash!
After a week or two I'll give the whole thing a good autoglymin'
ta
ST
16-08-2005, 06:54 PM
#19
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Been in the process of bringing my escort Si back to mint
Here's a few pics of what ive been doing
This arch was rusted and dented pretty bad. I took it back to bare metal and managed to even some dents out and filed any damage. (No comments about the ad's of my local paper!
)
The arch on this side was pretty bad. Ive basically had to reconstruct the whole bloody thing and I think I've done a fookin good job
Just needs a light 1200 wet and dry then ready for the top coat.
Just gotta do the rear bumper now and then its good by escort hello new car
ta
ST
Here's a few pics of what ive been doing
This arch was rusted and dented pretty bad. I took it back to bare metal and managed to even some dents out and filed any damage. (No comments about the ad's of my local paper!
)The arch on this side was pretty bad. Ive basically had to reconstruct the whole bloody thing and I think I've done a fookin good job
Just needs a light 1200 wet and dry then ready for the top coat.
Just gotta do the rear bumper now and then its good by escort hello new car
ta
ST
21-08-2005, 06:13 PM
#23
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After giving the 'dercoat a rub down with some P1200 and a wash lol I thought id have a go with a top coat and heres the results:
I think its looking pretty good. Just needs another rub down then a top coat then maybe some laquer?
Any comments and suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
The last new jobs are to repair the tailgate bumper (will probably just buy new ones) and repair these poorly repaired stone chips on the bonnet! (not my doing btw!)
Again, any help or suhhestions greatly apprecaited
Many thanks
Si
I think its looking pretty good. Just needs another rub down then a top coat then maybe some laquer?
Any comments and suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
The last new jobs are to repair the tailgate bumper (will probably just buy new ones) and repair these poorly repaired stone chips on the bonnet! (not my doing btw!)
Again, any help or suhhestions greatly apprecaited
Many thanks
Si
23-08-2005, 06:28 PM
#24
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
after a quick wet p1200 down I put on what I hope is the last top coat:
two questions:
1) In some areas I have a touch of overspray and the panel looks very dull. What can I do here?
2) Putting the laquer on what do I have to do? wet p1200 the top coat first or just spray straight on?
cheers guys
ST
two questions:
1) In some areas I have a touch of overspray and the panel looks very dull. What can I do here?
2) Putting the laquer on what do I have to do? wet p1200 the top coat first or just spray straight on?
cheers guys
ST
23-08-2005, 07:32 PM
#27
Professional Waffler
ok, if you have left the base coat for a while, flat it of with 1200. Then give it another quik flash coat(acts as a key) then apply a few coats of laquer. Let that harden for about 48 hours, then flat that laquer off with 1200 to remove any rippling and dust specs and then buff up with a good cutting polish...
HTH
ps dont go mad flatting the laquer off, just lightly does it with plenty of water
HTH
ps dont go mad flatting the laquer off, just lightly does it with plenty of water
27-08-2005, 06:31 PM
#30
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Join Date: May 2003
Location: SE
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just to add a note to Lee's advice, personally on aerosol clear I would use 2000 wet n dry not 1200 as it will be piss thin, also to remove the bits on the bonnet, use a little standard thinners on a cloth
30-08-2005, 10:40 AM
#31
Professional Waffler
Originally Posted by Damo V
just to add a note to Lee's advice, personally on aerosol clear I would use 2000 wet n dry not 1200 as it will be piss thin, also to remove the bits on the bonnet, use a little standard thinners on a cloth
Must be like paper
30-08-2005, 03:50 PM
#33
Professional Waffler
I think so 
TBH i have always used 1200.... But its only a hobby thing as you know...so if you say its the stuff...then its the stuff..
Mates never mentioned it either when ive asked for advice...unless its just different peeps ways of doing things?
TBH i have always used 1200.... But its only a hobby thing as you know...so if you say its the stuff...then its the stuff..Mates never mentioned it either when ive asked for advice...unless its just different peeps ways of doing things?
30-08-2005, 03:57 PM
#34
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Join Date: May 2003
Location: SE
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah it takes longer thats all, I personally hate flatting paint with 1200 especially if its fresh, scratches are very hard to remove....
Alot of bodyshops I go into actually DA frsh paint using 1500 pads then mop em lol!!
Alot of bodyshops I go into actually DA frsh paint using 1500 pads then mop em lol!!
30-08-2005, 04:04 PM
#36
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Join Date: May 2003
Location: SE
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you wouldnt flat a whole panel with 2k grade though would take forever.. some people use 1200 then 15 then mop less chance of it fading over time... but 2k would be perfect on a small repair as above, I use it ALOT in SMART repairs, as Im only doing little areas
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post