Track day car Focus 2.0 or St170?

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19-04-2012, 03:32 PM

#81

Straight_4_N/a

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Chip

Its things like length and pathway of lines that is critical.

When its all back on, take some pictures, and whip the jets out and let me know the numbers on them.

When its cold it will go richer, when its hot it will go leaner.

So if its setup in the winter, in the summer its likely to melt.

well from what ive seen my setup is diffrent from most, where most people have there soleinoids together my nos one is on the top right hand side of the engine bay and the fuel solenoid is on top of the engine with what looks like a preusse switch bolted into where the fuel is ment to go but theres an adpotor thing there to alow the fuel to go in to. im confused why won sold me a kit where it has 2 nos feeds and only one fuel feed

well the engine and nos kit is currently in my house so i could set it all up as a test fit to show you (i do need some new lines i broke the fuel and second nos line lol)

thanks for the help nobody seems to know anything about it and ive been thinking about just buying a new one as mines years old now.

im off to bed now (ive got to be up in a few hours for work) but ill be looking forward to see what you say.

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19-04-2012, 03:37 PM

#82

Chip

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Best bet is to post the pictures on the forum that me and trev run:

http://forum.nitrous-advice.org/

You can get input from multiple people then not just me.

Trev in particular is a wealth of knowledge, I dont think there are any 2 other people in the world who if added together that could come close to his knowledge of the subject of nitrous!

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19-04-2012, 07:01 PM

#83

Madgit

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Straight_4_N/a

Engine
Kent Vern Pulleys
Stage 2 Head
CFM Crank Pulley And Water Pump Pulley
TTV Flywheel
FSE Power Boost Vaule
CFM T/B
BMC Sealed Intake Box
90mm Cold Air Feed
Ford 4-2-1 Exhaust Manifold
LongLife De-Cat
LongLife 2.5 Bore Cat Bk Exhaust
1 Litre Oil Catcher Tank
Mocal 19 Row Oil Rad

Transmisson
1.8 IB5 Gearbox
Custom Short Shifter
PolyBush Toqrue Link

Brakes/Wheels/Tyres
300mm ST170 Front
280mm ST170 Rear
Custom Drilled Front Discs
ECB Green Front Pads
Std Rear
Pro Race 15x7 Alloys
Buget Tyres

Suspension
Polybush Front
Gmax Fixed Shocks
Gmax 40mm Springs
E-Tech Front Upper Strut Brace
OMP Front Lowwer Strut Brace
12.5mm Rear Axle spacers
10mm Front Wheel Spacers

Interior
Corbeau Bucket Seat
Striped Interior
6 Point Bolt-In FIA Roll Cage
1.5 Litre Fuel Swirl Pot

Exterior
Bonnet Lightened With WRC Bonnet Scoop And Bonnet Pins Fitted
Carbonfibre Wings
Poly Windows
de-wipered

And all it needs to be done now is a nasty set of cams and ive got one extra thing thats not on the list for an added 50bhp+ if i need it

So you've spent loads of money and time to improve the performance.....
Then chuck remoulds on it?
AFPMSL

Last edited by Madgit; 19-04-2012 at 07:03 PM.

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20-04-2012, 01:25 AM

#84

Straight_4_N/a

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Madgit

So you've spent loads of money and time to improve the performance.....
Then chuck remoulds on it?
AFPMSL

Well the car is beening beening rushed to be built to be ready for the track before june and that list is only the current items i have and the suspension and tyres are just to get it working at the min and will be the first things changed the second i have funds free for them but as said at the min im just putting all my spare funds in just to get it running, which i think the car has come a long way from 2 months ago when it was just a std 1.6 which ive done all the work my self and spending less than 20 hours so far building it.

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20-04-2012, 01:39 AM

#85

alexno1dj

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stripped out puma would be a no-brainer for me, they start at 500 quid, cheap parts and revvy engine. Not very fast but enough poke to have fun, then when you want more power a set of throttle bodies (165 bhp), or a turbo (up to 230 bhp)

Good base car with potential, coil overs and 300mm brake upgrade would be the best starting point