Tell me what you think... CVH engine now WITH CLAY!
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Tell me what you think... CVH engine now WITH CLAY!
Disassembly and inspection:
Block still in place
Very nice con rod bearing’s… NOT!
The 3rd con rod bearing “spinned” inside the housing (lower in the pic)
Thankfully there was no need resurface the housing!
‘81 block in a ‘89 car…
1978 part inside my engine!
Very polished cylinder liner with some scoring
Camshaft in bad condition
Note that the clean metal was the only part of the cam in contact with the follower!
This is why the cam was worn like that. 1mm less in the center of followers.
‘90 EFI head
Oil cooler in wrong position
Had no idea that the oil cooler had a no-return valve built-in…
A bit rusty flywheel
Water pump in an unbelievable state, note the rust blister’s on the vane’s surface!
Clutch (still good…)
Gearbox after cleaning a bit
THAT’S a lot of part’s!
Feel free to post questions or comments!
Block still in place
Very nice con rod bearing’s… NOT!
The 3rd con rod bearing “spinned” inside the housing (lower in the pic)
Thankfully there was no need resurface the housing!
‘81 block in a ‘89 car…
1978 part inside my engine!
Very polished cylinder liner with some scoring
Camshaft in bad condition
Note that the clean metal was the only part of the cam in contact with the follower!
This is why the cam was worn like that. 1mm less in the center of followers.
‘90 EFI head
Oil cooler in wrong position
Had no idea that the oil cooler had a no-return valve built-in…
A bit rusty flywheel
Water pump in an unbelievable state, note the rust blister’s on the vane’s surface!
Clutch (still good…)
Gearbox after cleaning a bit
THAT’S a lot of part’s!
Feel free to post questions or comments!
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New parts from shop
After some time going around, store after store, asking prices for new parts (tight budget…), I finally found the “right” price at a nearby shop… Only after a fair bit of problems like I couldn’t get an oil pump ANYWHERE in this country (ford, parallel market, whatever…), and mixed head gasket set’s.
New 0.29mm oversize pistons, gudgeon pins and rings
0.5mm conrod big end bearings
0.75mm crank bearings (the limit!!!)
Another crank bearing
Much needed new water pump
Normally when you ask, in a common shop, for head bolts they sell ford’s spec special stretch bolts. I got 10.9 strength common bolts… They are not designed to stretch at all, and are a bit on the heavy duty side… NICE!!!
Some other important parts for a reconstruction, oil filter, oil pressure sensor and thermostatic water valve…
After some time going around, store after store, asking prices for new parts (tight budget…), I finally found the “right” price at a nearby shop… Only after a fair bit of problems like I couldn’t get an oil pump ANYWHERE in this country (ford, parallel market, whatever…), and mixed head gasket set’s.
New 0.29mm oversize pistons, gudgeon pins and rings
0.5mm conrod big end bearings
0.75mm crank bearings (the limit!!!)
Another crank bearing
Much needed new water pump
Normally when you ask, in a common shop, for head bolts they sell ford’s spec special stretch bolts. I got 10.9 strength common bolts… They are not designed to stretch at all, and are a bit on the heavy duty side… NICE!!!
Some other important parts for a reconstruction, oil filter, oil pressure sensor and thermostatic water valve…
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Part mods…
Continuing the porting started a year ago…
When I was porting the head, I left it outside over a towel… The dog pulled the towel and head on floor!!!
After the 2nd resurface, clean valves…
As the valve seats were a bit deep into the head, there was a very sharp step between the cc and the valve seat, so I’ve machined it to prevent flow losses.
Inlet port straightned also slightly enlarged.
Exhaust port roof raisened.
Inlet valves after a 2 angle regrind, 45º seat and 30º above it.
The left one was polished with 50 grit sandpaper, then 280, 600 and finally 600 with WD-40.
Same treatment here… I’ve polished them not in search of more hp, but to prevent carbon adhering so easily.
Same thing to the exhaust valves… Not so polished because the steel is much harder compared to the inlet.
Note the lightened piston. I’ve managed to take 4 grams out but it still remained to heavy compared to rest of the pistons (weight in grams with the gudgeon pin)…
I’ve put them in order so that the rotating equilibrium is not very disturbed by different piston weight’s (not the order in the pic…)
About 600g were taken out of the flywheel (400g near the ring gear)
Ground and polished crank (fillets respected)
Continuing the porting started a year ago…
When I was porting the head, I left it outside over a towel… The dog pulled the towel and head on floor!!!
After the 2nd resurface, clean valves…
As the valve seats were a bit deep into the head, there was a very sharp step between the cc and the valve seat, so I’ve machined it to prevent flow losses.
Inlet port straightned also slightly enlarged.
Exhaust port roof raisened.
Inlet valves after a 2 angle regrind, 45º seat and 30º above it.
The left one was polished with 50 grit sandpaper, then 280, 600 and finally 600 with WD-40.
Same treatment here… I’ve polished them not in search of more hp, but to prevent carbon adhering so easily.
Same thing to the exhaust valves… Not so polished because the steel is much harder compared to the inlet.
Note the lightened piston. I’ve managed to take 4 grams out but it still remained to heavy compared to rest of the pistons (weight in grams with the gudgeon pin)…
I’ve put them in order so that the rotating equilibrium is not very disturbed by different piston weight’s (not the order in the pic…)
About 600g were taken out of the flywheel (400g near the ring gear)
Ground and polished crank (fillets respected)
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Performance parts
Since my budget is very limited, this section is quite small…
Schrick camshaft kit, with new valve springs and lower valve spring retainers
Cam info: 288º inlet/ 280º exhaust (28º-80º, 69º-31º)
Cam lift: 6,5mm (10,6mm at the valve)
Valve lift at TDC: 1,4mm, 1,8mm (important for good idle at low speed and the ability to pass in emissions test) below 1,9mm for 2 valve engines with hydraulic followers.
Very good machining (CNC), tight fit in head and lobes coated to aid break-in.
For those of you that never heard of this company, they are the makers of the Bugatti Veyron’s engine block and cylinder head (as many precision parts for F1, etc.)
And also the makers of this:
16 valve conversion kit for the CVH!
Here’s one thing you don’t see everyday on a CVH cam, a hole in each lobe to lubricate the follower… Very nice!
The new valve springs are approximately the same geometry as the old ones.
3,5mm spring retainer and guide
Since my budget is very limited, this section is quite small…
Schrick camshaft kit, with new valve springs and lower valve spring retainers
Cam info: 288º inlet/ 280º exhaust (28º-80º, 69º-31º)
Cam lift: 6,5mm (10,6mm at the valve)
Valve lift at TDC: 1,4mm, 1,8mm (important for good idle at low speed and the ability to pass in emissions test) below 1,9mm for 2 valve engines with hydraulic followers.
Very good machining (CNC), tight fit in head and lobes coated to aid break-in.
For those of you that never heard of this company, they are the makers of the Bugatti Veyron’s engine block and cylinder head (as many precision parts for F1, etc.)
And also the makers of this:
16 valve conversion kit for the CVH!
Here’s one thing you don’t see everyday on a CVH cam, a hole in each lobe to lubricate the follower… Very nice!
The new valve springs are approximately the same geometry as the old ones.
3,5mm spring retainer and guide
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for a bit more info on the 16v CVH:
http://www.rs1600i.net/phpBB2/viewto...158320570ce63d
"Schrick engineerd them in 1984 and ford tested them in 2 fiestas in cologne and Saarlois. Schrick build 4 of the Zylinderheads. After a time of testing ford says that the dont make it, to Ford part, but still want to sell the heads over the tuning-shops (like eichberg or gerstmann). But this will never happens and schrick gave the order to ford to scrap all heads... One guy will put my head in his work bench, and gives me the head few years later...."
http://www.rs1600i.net/phpBB2/viewto...158320570ce63d
"Schrick engineerd them in 1984 and ford tested them in 2 fiestas in cologne and Saarlois. Schrick build 4 of the Zylinderheads. After a time of testing ford says that the dont make it, to Ford part, but still want to sell the heads over the tuning-shops (like eichberg or gerstmann). But this will never happens and schrick gave the order to ford to scrap all heads... One guy will put my head in his work bench, and gives me the head few years later...."
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Re: Tell me what you think... CVH engine rebuild
Originally Posted by paconassa
Camshaft in bad condition
Note that the clean metal was the only part of the cam in contact with the follower!
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Originally Posted by paconassa
forgot this pics.....
1mm short in diameter...
That’s 5,17mm of cam lift (should be 6,13…)!
1mm short in diameter...
That’s 5,17mm of cam lift (should be 6,13…)!
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Originally Posted by Maki
Originally Posted by paconassa
forgot this pics.....
1mm short in diameter...
That’s 5,17mm of cam lift (should be 6,13…)!
1mm short in diameter...
That’s 5,17mm of cam lift (should be 6,13…)!
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Some important verifications…
I’ve put some children’s modeling clay on the top of the piston in TDC to measure:
-Squish area thickness (1,7mm)
-Valve distance to piston (minimum 1,5mm) ~5mm inlet, ~4mm exhaust
Exhaust valve impression
Inlet valve…
Work in progress!
I’ve put some children’s modeling clay on the top of the piston in TDC to measure:
-Squish area thickness (1,7mm)
-Valve distance to piston (minimum 1,5mm) ~5mm inlet, ~4mm exhaust
Exhaust valve impression
Inlet valve…
Work in progress!
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Originally Posted by paconassa
Of course it is the right way... But not the only right way.....
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Originally Posted by Maki
Originally Posted by paconassa
Of course it is the right way... But not the only right way.....
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Originally Posted by zetec turbo mk4
really cant see the point in that 16valve head so you may as well donate it to me
#22
Hi there, If you want more details and information visit my homepage(the 16V is mine) www.rs1600i.de
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so if theres only 3 of these heads is there any other way to convert a cvh to 16V? zetec head for example as u can put a zetec bottom end on a cvh head so y not zetec head on cvh bottom end? plus hows the build going any new updates? and what sort of power and torque you hoping to get from this conversion. my 1600 cvh EFI is one that produces 108bhp so much more than that? i love my cvh but i really want some 16V power without chukin a 2litre zetec in like everyone else lol
#26
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Nice project something different
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iTrader: (2)
so if theres only 3 of these heads is there any other way to convert a cvh to 16V? zetec head for example as u can put a zetec bottom end on a cvh head so y not zetec head on cvh bottom end? plus hows the build going any new updates? and what sort of power and torque you hoping to get from this conversion. my 1600 cvh EFI is one that produces 108bhp so much more than that? i love my cvh but i really want some 16V power without chukin a 2litre zetec in like everyone else lol
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