My WRC Escort Zetec/Cosworth Build
25-04-2008, 04:58 PM
#122
will hopefully have an update for you lot soon, i've been busy lately doing more porting work! the head is currently at work ready to have the exhaust guides bashed in and seats cut.
if its a nice day tomorrow, i'll be outside working on the car, probably getting the recaros in
if its a nice day tomorrow, i'll be outside working on the car, probably getting the recaros in
03-05-2008, 01:36 AM
#123
just a quick one, my head has now had new exhaust guides mashed in and has been welded again to get rid of any corrosion that might affect the cometic gasket from sealing properly. while i was playing on our SERDI, i decided to give the head 5 angles on the inlets and exhaust seats
also managed to semi-bolt the drivers seat in and bolt the passenger side runners to the seat. i'll hopefully get some more of the interior done this weekend, weather permitting... and if the missus lets me!
i'll get some pics up soon
also managed to semi-bolt the drivers seat in and bolt the passenger side runners to the seat. i'll hopefully get some more of the interior done this weekend, weather permitting... and if the missus lets me!
i'll get some pics up soon
02-07-2008, 04:38 PM
#127
right... a complete change of direction for this project! i've ditched the cossie engine and am now going for a big power zetec turbo! my reasons for this are pretty simple really, the cossie parts are getting horrendously expensive now, also they're getting a bit harder to find in descent condition. i can pick up new parts for the zetec from the states, or even from the local scrappy
so far i have picked up a blacktop engine from a FSH low miler mondeo, stripped it down to a bare block and have taken it to work ready for machining.
some parts have arrived already for the build, these are:
JayRacing Billet steel main caps and ARP main bolts
Eagle 'H' section rods and ARP bolts
JE forged pistons
the JE's will be slightly modified for lower CR, as will the head, but not massively
i'm thinking of machining a custom flywheel to take a skyline twin plate clutch, but thats just in the planning stages at the moment.
everything is looking good so far, i hope the new engine will make over 500bhp
so far i have picked up a blacktop engine from a FSH low miler mondeo, stripped it down to a bare block and have taken it to work ready for machining.
some parts have arrived already for the build, these are:
JayRacing Billet steel main caps and ARP main bolts
Eagle 'H' section rods and ARP bolts
JE forged pistons
the JE's will be slightly modified for lower CR, as will the head, but not massively
i'm thinking of machining a custom flywheel to take a skyline twin plate clutch, but thats just in the planning stages at the moment.
everything is looking good so far, i hope the new engine will make over 500bhp
02-07-2008, 04:49 PM
#129
it won't be the first, or the last i'm sure
by the way, engine cost so far (so you can compare with a cossie build)
Engine Ł100
Main caps + arp's Ł300 (+Ł40 import tax)
Pistons and rods Ł550
so basically, i've got a very strong bottom end for under a grand!
by the way, engine cost so far (so you can compare with a cossie build)
Engine Ł100
Main caps + arp's Ł300 (+Ł40 import tax)
Pistons and rods Ł550
so basically, i've got a very strong bottom end for under a grand!
03-07-2008, 10:59 PM
#131
the pistons are supposed to be 9:1 CR, but will be more like 8:1 by the time i'm finished with everything hopefully
right, tonight i've been back to work to machine my billet main caps. we came up with an ingenious way of boring them on our cylinder boring bar... we do have a line borer, but it was deemed easier on the boring bar
first we had to check that the block was sitting true on the machine, so i bolted the old main caps on, then set the guage to check we were central on the ID. ui then moved the guage down into the other mains to check taht they were also straight and true. with a bit of fine adjustment, it was spot on
all set up:
we then had the dilemma that we'd never bored steel before... only ally or iron, so we had to set the machine to take small cuts off at a time, with a slow feed speed and high spindle speed, to try and keep it from smashing a tip, or moving the block. we got it sorted and set it going:
Smokin'. We then made the cuts bigger and bigger until we were 2 thou under final size.
onto the next machine... the line honer! this makes sure that the caps are completely true and all honed to the correct final size.
here's a pic of the machine:
after a few licks with the hone, and a bit of measuring, this was the end result:
Spot on
. hopefully i'll be able to bore and face the block tomorrow (all done on the boring bar i used on this). i hope this has helped some people understand what these jobs entail, as i know everyone on here isn't an engineer or mechanic. i'll hopefully be doing some more step-by-step guides as i do more machining
let me know what you think
right, tonight i've been back to work to machine my billet main caps. we came up with an ingenious way of boring them on our cylinder boring bar... we do have a line borer, but it was deemed easier on the boring bar
first we had to check that the block was sitting true on the machine, so i bolted the old main caps on, then set the guage to check we were central on the ID. ui then moved the guage down into the other mains to check taht they were also straight and true. with a bit of fine adjustment, it was spot on
all set up:
we then had the dilemma that we'd never bored steel before... only ally or iron, so we had to set the machine to take small cuts off at a time, with a slow feed speed and high spindle speed, to try and keep it from smashing a tip, or moving the block. we got it sorted and set it going:
Smokin'
. We then made the cuts bigger and bigger until we were 2 thou under final size.onto the next machine... the line honer! this makes sure that the caps are completely true and all honed to the correct final size.
here's a pic of the machine:
after a few licks with the hone, and a bit of measuring, this was the end result:
Spot on
. hopefully i'll be able to bore and face the block tomorrow (all done on the boring bar i used on this). i hope this has helped some people understand what these jobs entail, as i know everyone on here isn't an engineer or mechanic. i'll hopefully be doing some more step-by-step guides as i do more machining let me know what you think
05-07-2008, 11:45 PM
#134
i've ordered my valves today... 1mm oversize on inlet and 3mm on exhaust. they should arrive in the week so i can start porting
then there's the dilemma of which head to use... i CC'd the blacktop head today and it came out at 45cc... 3cc down on what i was expecting
. however, the silver top head looks as if it'll be a fair bit bigger... but i haven't cc'd that yet, so i can't tell. i may also CC the st170 head, just to see what i make it 
.
as far as information on the net goes, the ST head is 40cc and the other heads are 48cc, but obviously i've found that to be false so far.
i'll update in the week when i've cc'd the heads
then there's the dilemma of which head to use... i CC'd the blacktop head today and it came out at 45cc... 3cc down on what i was expecting
. however, the silver top head looks as if it'll be a fair bit bigger... but i haven't cc'd that yet, so i can't tell. i may also CC the st170 head, just to see what i make it .as far as information on the net goes, the ST head is 40cc and the other heads are 48cc, but obviously i've found that to be false so far.
i'll update in the week when i've cc'd the heads
06-07-2008, 08:43 AM
#136
Colossal Pervert
It's nice to see someone actually testing/measuring rather than just listening to bullshit on the web 
Good work chap..
Any particular reason you're running these billet mains? I've never seen a standard one break!
Good work chap..Any particular reason you're running these billet mains? I've never seen a standard one break!
07-07-2008, 04:54 PM
#139
cheers for the comments everyone
neither have i, but the yanks are paranoid about it... so i thought i'd best be cautious and got them as a safety measure the standard ones on the blacktop do seem very small compared to the silver top ones.
i cc'd my silver top head today and found it to have a 48cc chamber... so ideally it would be the one to use, however, the belt setup would cause me more headaches
.
i'm going to do a mock build soon and work out the comp ratio properly. there is a fair bit of material that can come out of the chamber and off the pistons before it harms anything.
the standard ones on the blacktop do seem very small compared to the silver top ones.i cc'd my silver top head today and found it to have a 48cc chamber... so ideally it would be the one to use, however, the belt setup would cause me more headaches
.i'm going to do a mock build soon and work out the comp ratio properly
. there is a fair bit of material that can come out of the chamber and off the pistons before it harms anything.
07-07-2008, 11:06 PM
#140
right, i've been back to work tonight! while i was there, i decided to finish the machining to the block. here's what i did:
firstly, i set the block on the boring bar and clamped it down. the fly cutter was already on the machine, so i decided to face the block first. i had to make sure it was sat squarely on the paralells first by using a dial guage on the fly cutter and moving it across the block face. after a bit of fine tuning, it was set within 1 thou all over
i then set a cut of .05mm (2 thou roughly) and let it go across the face:
finished face on the right, unfinished on the left:
a perfect finish. next, i had to change the machine to use a boring bar:
i then had to set the boring bar in the centre of the bore using the dial guage and finger attachment on the machine (sorry for the blurry picture, my friend dick was at the control of the camera, still, it saves my ugly face from smashing your monitor):
after it was set, we measured all of the pistons and set the cutter to just below the tolerance set by JE to allow us to hone something out of it. we then sent it down all of the bores:
and here's the block after boring was completed:
next, its onto honing! we're old fashioned and do it all by hand, but it gets the job done, and does it well. here's a pic of the block being honed:
and here is the finished block, 84.99mm bores all round, giving it a final capacity of 1998.2cc:
all this means i can now do a mock build ond work out how much i need to lose off the pistons or out of the head to get to my desired CR
i remeasured the black top head today, made it 44cc this time (i cleaned the face properly). if i intend to get anywhere near my desired CR, i need to lose at least 10cc from somewhere
thats all for now, hopefully my valves will arrive tomorrow so i can start cutting chunks out of my head
firstly, i set the block on the boring bar and clamped it down. the fly cutter was already on the machine, so i decided to face the block first. i had to make sure it was sat squarely on the paralells first by using a dial guage on the fly cutter and moving it across the block face. after a bit of fine tuning, it was set within 1 thou all over
i then set a cut of .05mm (2 thou roughly) and let it go across the face:
finished face on the right, unfinished on the left:
a perfect finish
. next, i had to change the machine to use a boring bar:i then had to set the boring bar in the centre of the bore using the dial guage and finger attachment on the machine (sorry for the blurry picture, my friend dick was at the control of the camera, still, it saves my ugly face from smashing your monitor
):after it was set, we measured all of the pistons and set the cutter to just below the tolerance set by JE to allow us to hone something out of it. we then sent it down all of the bores:
and here's the block after boring was completed:
next, its onto honing! we're old fashioned and do it all by hand, but it gets the job done, and does it well. here's a pic of the block being honed:
and here is the finished block, 84.99mm bores all round, giving it a final capacity of 1998.2cc
:all this means i can now do a mock build ond work out how much i need to lose off the pistons or out of the head to get to my desired CR
i remeasured the black top head today, made it 44cc this time (i cleaned the face properly). if i intend to get anywhere near my desired CR, i need to lose at least 10cc from somewhere
thats all for now, hopefully my valves will arrive tomorrow so i can start cutting chunks out of my head
07-07-2008, 11:15 PM
#143
top secret
nah, i'm going for around 8:1, its in the middle of what can be run. i've asked a very well known ford/mitsi tuner his advice on it and he advised that if he were to build another one, it'd be in the 8's
turbo choice will be gt3076r to keep it fairly sensible
nah, i'm going for around 8:1, its in the middle of what can be run. i've asked a very well known ford/mitsi tuner his advice on it and he advised that if he were to build another one, it'd be in the 8's
turbo choice will be gt3076r to keep it fairly sensible
07-07-2008, 11:34 PM
#145
10K+ Poster!!
@ top secret C/R's, not another one LOL, he still won't tell me either I'll have to give him a ring so he knows what I want doing, don't diss the GM badge to much as you'll be sick when I overtake you
07-07-2008, 11:53 PM
#148
i get to hear all the gossip from the other side of the fence
. its good really, we bounce ideas and theorys off eachother all day long i'm surprised he's not bored of it by now, although i think he enjoys arsing about with engines even more than i do 
.has deek's Ł1200 head made it onto his car yet?
08-07-2008, 12:18 AM
#151
10K+ Poster!!
mental in comparison to Gavs head but I felt its a massive overkill for what I need when Speckys done so well with his.Clearly Andys heads are doing the business on the let engines, I do however know these other heads have been giving some ridiculous numbers on xe's, I can't comment on Neils work as I only hear about it through others but they should do the job.
08-07-2008, 12:48 AM
#152
i think there's more to be had out of specky's head, aside from the porting, its pretty basic tbh! lets hope gav makes some good figures on his!
just to make you feel better... my head will be costing me the price of a set of valves and possibly some cams and springs... so under Ł600 hopefully
just to make you feel better... my head will be costing me the price of a set of valves and possibly some cams and springs... so under Ł600 hopefully
08-07-2008, 12:54 AM
#153
10K+ Poster!!
I'm sure it can go further, wether he needs to is another matter lol
I've just done Ł450 on solids, shims, springs and retainers
Oh well, so much for building something cheap
I've just done Ł450 on solids, shims, springs and retainers
Oh well, so much for building something cheap
08-07-2008, 04:32 PM
#154
isn't it proven that you don't need special cams or solid lifters to achieve the power you're after? guess what arrived today....
my valves!:
3mm oversize on the exhaust and 1mm oversize on the inlet:
Many thanks to Autosprint for supplying these to me at the right price and getting them here in double quick time
now the hard work begins
08-07-2008, 04:57 PM
#155
10K+ Poster!!
Valves look nice mate.
Its proven that you can't rev any engine hard on stock springs and hydraulic lifters, the retainers are there simply for safety as if a 100k old one broke I can say bye to my engine or atleast one cylinder. Reliability is the key, Jus the drive to Germany will be more miles than Speckys engine ever does
I'm not building it to be a one trick pony although I don't expect it will be amazing at everything, I just want to enjoy it
Its proven that you can't rev any engine hard on stock springs and hydraulic lifters, the retainers are there simply for safety as if a 100k old one broke I can say bye to my engine or atleast one cylinder. Reliability is the key, Jus the drive to Germany will be more miles than Speckys engine ever does
I'm not building it to be a one trick pony although I don't expect it will be amazing at everything, I just want to enjoy it
Last edited by JonnyBravo; 08-07-2008 at 04:59 PM.