S1

Car is an FRST, there is no weight in the back and im running ST170 discs so therefore I need to fit a rear-bias valve and am in need of some advice. Am I right in saying that all you need to do is run a single rear line from the master cylinder and the valve is situated in the line? The front system is not changed at all.

Also the standard non-abs master cylinder has two outlets front and rear ie 4 in total. Would I be better in running an ABS master cylinder which has only one outlet each for F&R?

What is the better bias valve to go for, screw type or lever? Also Tilton or AP?

DUDE_SWEET_FRST

yeah, 1 line, then split it for the rear 2. put the bias valve in the engine bay somewhere

you need non abs cylinder, 2 for the front, 1 for the rear, then block the last one up with a bolt

S1

All the brakelines are being rerun anyway so why do i need to keep to outlets for the front. Surely i can use the single outlet ABS MC and split it down on the bulkhead somewhere? Also I want the bais valve near the drivers seat.

BigDave

Are you not better putting the bias valve between front and rear and having it adjustable from inside the car so it can be adjusted for different conditions? Or does this just work with bias pedal boxes? I am not up on all this abs talk so am genually interested to hear what the difference is for this application you lads are talking of?

CheeRS
Dave...

S1

BIAS pedal boxes dont need a bias valve as they run 2 seperate MC's and the bias is adjusted F&R between them. The normal MCs have seperate circuits F&R so if one fails then you still have some brakes. Car is non-ABS but the ABS MC's only have one outlet per circuit as opposed to two for the non-ABS.

BigDave

Oh right, err I think? I have a mechanical adjustable bias in my Mk2 direct onto the pedal adjuster bar, but my Mk1 has a Wilwood adjustabe valve fitted to the trasmission tunnel which is linked into the hydraulic system. Again this is adjustabel from in the car whilst driving.

Still no idea about how the modern stuff is set up?

CheeRS
Dave...

S1

The MK2 must a run a bias pedal box with seperate MC's front and rear. The knob you turn adjusts a threaded bar run between the two cylinders altering the point at which the pedal acts on the two cylinders, changing the pressure between the two cylinders. The Mk1 has a bias valve ij the rear line only then?

S1

BTTT

NUTS RuS

iTrader: (35)

Mine still has one in the rear line

Your thinking along all the correct lines S1

Obviously your going to need to re-plumb it front-front and rear-rear.

From 1 outlet on the m/c split the fronts, from the other outlet send it to the back, through a screw type adjuster then split it for the backs.

You can then reduce the pressure to the backs to stop it overbraking.

Im not a fan of the lever type, they sometimes dont have the notch in the right place and what you want is in betweeen two notches.

Go for a screw type one, but both them makes you mentioned are over priced - my mate sells them unbadged on ebay for £39.

BigDave

Yes the Mk2 has the thready type adjuster which is dead easy to set and understand as it just moves left to right and puts more pressure on the required piston. My Mk1 actaully has a valve that swaps hyraulic pressure between the front and rear calipers as required, better get my hands dirty and see where it all goes eh.. LOL!

S1

So really the valves are actually pressure limiting valves as opposed to a true bias valve.

What does your mate trade as on e-gay? I will most probably be running the brake lines this week so need one by the weekend.

NUTS RuS

iTrader: (35)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BRAKE-BIAS-PRO...QQcmdZViewItem

markk

iTrader: (2)

tony - PLEASE tel me these bits that are now appearing are NOTHING to do with felly ?

ozcos

This company I can recomend very helpful and good quality parts