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Reasonable labour price for removing/fitting a turbo?

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Old 25-01-2006, 10:25 PM
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boon
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Default Reasonable labour price for removing/fitting a turbo?

I'm gonna be ringing around tomorrow to get a price for replacing the turbo on my 4x4 saph. I'm supplying the turbo myself but whats a reasonable price for labour?

Can anyone recommend someone who could do this work in north east area?

Cheers
Boon
Old 25-01-2006, 10:57 PM
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Beach
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Why not have a crack at it urself its not the hardest thing to do, its quite easy on a cossy
Old 25-01-2006, 11:05 PM
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I'm too kak-handed mate.

I did have a look, but the bolts look well awkward to me It may be easy with good/correct tools, but I just don't have the tools nor the know-how.
Old 25-01-2006, 11:09 PM
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Yeah not having the tools is a big problem, i can see wheer your coming from, id imagine any trustworthy garage will take it on
Old 25-01-2006, 11:25 PM
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i'd expect them to charge 2 hours labour, although it is easily enough done in about an hour
Old 25-01-2006, 11:49 PM
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Thanks for replies guys, I might have another look at it tomorrow. If it's only an hour's job for a garage, surely i can do it over the course of a weekend

As it is, it's seized anyway so wouldn't be able to drive it to a garage - have to get it trailored - so even if i screw it up, i'll be no worse off.
Old 26-01-2006, 12:09 AM
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Borrow some tools of a mate and have a go yourself

If I can do it anyone can!!!
Old 26-01-2006, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by boon
I'm too kak-handed mate.

I did have a look, but the bolts look well awkward to me It may be easy with good/correct tools, but I just don't have the tools nor the know-how.
aint head that term in ages

I'm too kak-handed mate


Old 26-01-2006, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by boon
Thanks for replies guys, I might have another look at it tomorrow. If it's only an hour's job for a garage, surely i can do it over the course of a weekend

As it is, it's seized anyway so wouldn't be able to drive it to a garage - have to get it trailored - so even if i screw it up, i'll be no worse off.
Just make sure you undo the four bolts that hold the manifold and elbow together and not the manifold studs/nuts as its much easyer that way, you will need to borrow a 'e' prom bit for your ratchet its like a torx bit but external instead of internal. (thats providing these special bolts havnt been replaced with cheap ones) Cost me 9 quid each from PJ's

Then when your turbo and elbow are off the car split the turbo from the elbow with the other 4 bolts and there should be 4 locking tab washers aswell to move before you can do this and once its taken off replace with your new turbo.

Then just repeat what you done but in the oposite order and check it all over for any mistakes.

When the new turbo is fitted just make sure you prime the bearing with oil before starting the car, this can be done by disconecting the coil and turning the engine over for 15 seconds.

Job done
Old 26-01-2006, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Beach
Originally Posted by boon
Thanks for replies guys, I might have another look at it tomorrow. If it's only an hour's job for a garage, surely i can do it over the course of a weekend

As it is, it's seized anyway so wouldn't be able to drive it to a garage - have to get it trailored - so even if i screw it up, i'll be no worse off.
Just make sure you undo the four bolts that hold the manifold and elbow together and not the manifold studs/nuts as its much easyer that way, you will need to borrow a 'e' prom bit for your ratchet its like a torx bit but external instead of internal. (thats providing these special bolts havnt been replaced with cheap ones) Cost me 9 quid each from PJ's

Then when your turbo and elbow are off the car split the turbo from the elbow with the other 4 bolts and there should be 4 locking tab washers aswell to move before you can do this and once its taken off replace with your new turbo.

Then just repeat what you done but in the oposite order and check it all over for any mistakes.

When the new turbo is fitted just make sure you prime the beaqing with oil before starting the car, this can be done by disconecting the coil and turning the engine over for 15 seconds.

Job done
Nice reply Beach if he had a 2wd but he said 4x4

Steve.
Old 26-01-2006, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by cossie4i
Originally Posted by Beach
Originally Posted by boon
Thanks for replies guys, I might have another look at it tomorrow. If it's only an hour's job for a garage, surely i can do it over the course of a weekend

As it is, it's seized anyway so wouldn't be able to drive it to a garage - have to get it trailored - so even if i screw it up, i'll be no worse off.
Just make sure you undo the four bolts that hold the manifold and elbow together and not the manifold studs/nuts as its much easyer that way, you will need to borrow a 'e' prom bit for your ratchet its like a torx bit but external instead of internal. (thats providing these special bolts havnt been replaced with cheap ones) Cost me 9 quid each from PJ's

Then when your turbo and elbow are off the car split the turbo from the elbow with the other 4 bolts and there should be 4 locking tab washers aswell to move before you can do this and once its taken off replace with your new turbo.

Then just repeat what you done but in the oposite order and check it all over for any mistakes.

When the new turbo is fitted just make sure you prime the beaqing with oil before starting the car, this can be done by disconecting the coil and turning the engine over for 15 seconds.

Job done
Nice reply Beach if he had a 2wd but he said 4x4

Steve.
Fuggin hell yet again i get carried away

Think i need my eyes checking, still that makes it easyer doesnt it ??#

Theres only four bolts instead of 8 in total
Old 26-01-2006, 07:34 AM
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Beat me to it Steve!

Where abouts in Cleveland are you mate?

Neil.
Old 26-01-2006, 07:54 AM
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The 4WD turbo can be a complete sod to take off in the car you nearly always end end removing the complete manifold to be able to uindo the rear bolts which hold the turbo in place,its OK saying it will only take an hour,in a perfect world this may be true but what happens if you find broken studs that need re alloycoiling or sezed nuts ?? at a garage at say £25 an hour expect a bill for at least £100 + VAT
Old 26-01-2006, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Pete,RS Specialists
The 4WD turbo can be a complete sod to take off in the car you nearly always end end removing the complete manifold to be able to uindo the rear bolts which hold the turbo in place,its OK saying it will only take an hour,in a perfect world this may be true but what happens if you find broken studs that need re alloycoiling or sezed nuts ?? at a garage at say £25 an hour expect a bill for at least £100 + VAT
This is the case with any work undertaken with cars you never know what you will find when you strip things down, the manifold may be cracked asthe 4x4 ones do a lot.

Didnt realsise you had to take the manifold off on the 4b
Old 26-01-2006, 09:53 AM
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Thanks to all for replies. On reflection, I think it's safer all round to leave it to a pro. I'll end up breaking something and causing more damage/expense.

Neil, I live out in the sticks, halfway between Whitby & Guisborough. Where are you mate and do you know anyone local who's good with cossies?

I've posted a couple of pics of the turbo - the invoice I have calls it a "hybrid turbo" and that's it. I realise it's probably impossible, but can anyone identify what it is from these pics as I'd like to replace it with a same-spec item.




Cheers,
Boon
Old 26-01-2006, 09:54 AM
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i don't take the manifold off when doing a 4x4, granted it's awkward but not impossible. the nut/bolt at the rear is the awkward one but with the exhaust downpipe off you can get at it, bent spanners always help
Old 26-01-2006, 09:55 AM
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agree with Pete - 50 quid if it all goes to plan.
Old 26-01-2006, 09:56 AM
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it's a t34 but not sure on exhaust housing size? what numbers are written down the side ( can't make out in the photos )
Old 26-01-2006, 10:47 AM
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Thanks bud, had a dig around for some numbers. I can just make out at the bottom (not visible in photos) /B - 48 or something. I've heard this .48 branded about a bit on the forums so guess that's what it is???

Out of interest, how can you tell it's a T34? It would have had a T3 as standard right?
Old 26-01-2006, 11:05 AM
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sounds like you have a T34.48 then, a good punchy turbo

the main difference you can see is the size of the compressor housing and the 'square' casting on the face,for the i.d. tag

this is a normal 4x4 t3

https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=167971
Old 26-01-2006, 11:15 AM
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Thanks Martin, you've been a great help!

It was a punchy turbo until it seized up. Think i'll buy another one just like it. Anywhere you'd recommend to buy from?
Old 26-01-2006, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by boon
Thanks Martin, you've been a great help!

It was a punchy turbo until it seized up. Think i'll buy another one just like it. Anywhere you'd recommend to buy from?
I would also change the oil feed pipe if the turbo seized, don't want that to happen again

Steve.
Old 26-01-2006, 11:35 AM
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Cheers Steve, will do mate. Presumably the return pipe should be changed too?

Anyone, would a T34.63 a better buy than a T34.48 ???
Old 26-01-2006, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by boon
Cheers Steve, will do mate. Presumably the return pipe should be changed too?

Anyone, would a T34.63 a better buy than a T34.48 ???
What's the rest of your spec?? and how do you like to drive? the .63 takes much longer before it starts to spool, but once it does gives a really good kick and pulls well right up the rev range. so i'd say if you like to travel over 120mph regularly then a .63 helps pull you past there easily. but for the best driveable turbo i'd stick with the .48, it pulls well from low down and responds quickly

Danny@RADesigns is good, he posts on here
Old 26-01-2006, 12:26 PM
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or have the best of both world and get yourself a T34 with a 0.55 housing like mine
Old 26-01-2006, 12:39 PM
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bent spanner needed - but nothing specialised - about an hour and its off.... more room aswell on a saph as the turbo is a lil bit smaller


see my rebuild.....






Old 26-01-2006, 01:04 PM
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Martin, I'm gonna go for a .63 seems the best choice for the way I like to drive. Thanks again for all your help.

I'm running Ahmed chip on 803's, RS500 spec intercooler so should be ok. I'm thinking of moving to greys later in the year so the .63 will definately be better then i think.

Dave, thanks for the pics very informative. LMFAO at that spanner!
Old 26-01-2006, 01:09 PM
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no problems, good choice
Old 26-01-2006, 01:20 PM
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Hi Mate,

I'm near Marton. Just being nosey really as I saw you were from round this way but I didn't recognise the car.

I tend to do all my work myself, never had the car to a garage round here really. Dave Alwood in Marske knows his stuff, but I've only ever bought parts from him, never had him do any work for me.

I'd have a crack yourself - It's only nuts and bolts, just make sure you prime it properly and get any air out of the cooling system

Neil.
Old 26-01-2006, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bud-weis
i don't take the manifold off when doing a 4x4, granted it's awkward but not impossible. the nut/bolt at the rear is the awkward one but with the exhaust downpipe off you can get at it, bent spanners always help
I sorted that. Now have a special bent 17mm spanner for that ( amazing what frustration, anger, kerb stone and a big hammer can achieve )
Old 26-01-2006, 03:09 PM
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Hi Neil

I've had the car since Aug 1995 so you may well have seen it around at some point. Done a few 'test runs' along the parkway in my time.

Was good friends with Dave Alwood, but we fell out many moons ago. Shame really, he is quite knowledgeable I think, just a bit of attitude at times.

Cheers,
Boon
Old 26-01-2006, 03:29 PM
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LOL me too!

I know what you mean about Dave.

I'm struggling to think of anywhere thats any good... Automark in Stokesley? He has a good rep?

Neil.
Old 26-01-2006, 03:39 PM
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Ive got the .55 t34 its the grp a turbo technics item, cossiecrews dad has one on his 4x4 and its mint
Old 26-01-2006, 03:57 PM
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Mine is also a .55

What bhp do you think yours will make at PE next week Beach ?

Steve.
Old 26-01-2006, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by cossie4i
Mine is also a .55

What bhp do you think yours will make at PE next week Beach ?

Steve.
Its funny you say that ive done this thing at work called Predict the power with the people i work with, we all chip a quid in and predict a bhp on one of our white boards. The one who gets the closest wins all

Ive gone for 340 as thats what Karl said it should be around but it will be good to see, shame i cant get my block wire ringed in time for that as running 2 bar to the limiter instead of tailing off to 26 would be nice

Only time will tell
Old 26-01-2006, 04:11 PM
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Im hope to get about 350bhp and 330lbft

Steve.
Old 28-01-2006, 06:17 PM
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Right, got the turbo today and made a start getting the old one off. I've loosened the front two nuts no problem, just leaving the back two.

Can I buy one of these 'bent spanners'?

Other option is to go out tomorrow and buy a couple and try bending them meself. But I have no vice or anything, just sounds like i'm gonna lose an eye or something!
Old 28-01-2006, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete,RS Specialists
The 4WD turbo can be a complete sod to take off in the car you nearly always end end removing the complete manifold to be able to uindo the rear bolts which hold the turbo in place,its OK saying it will only take an hour,in a perfect world this may be true but what happens if you find broken studs that need re alloycoiling or sezed nuts ?? at a garage at say £25 an hour expect a bill for at least £100 + VAT
what pete said when we removed the 1 off my dads there was snapped studs,studs that were seized ones with no thread turned out an expensive turbo change
Old 28-01-2006, 06:43 PM
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Yeh but the front two have come off easy (i know they're the easy ones) so if i could just get a spanner on the back two i'm sure i can manage to do this myself leaving the manifold in situ.

All i need is a "Dave Henshall spanner" or similar and i'm sorted.
Old 29-01-2006, 09:52 AM
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