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Old 25-12-2005, 03:34 PM
  #41  
ryan_belfast
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Originally Posted by steven720
it would break your heart if you made a slight mistake and then had to pay somebody anyway
No it wouldnt, worst than can happen is i fuck it up and i have to take it to someone to fix, at least i tried....

If i read up loads on it and do a load of test pieces first i dont see any reason why i cant do a god job, its just a matter of practising
Old 25-12-2005, 03:59 PM
  #42  
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Wise up, Your garage isnt even big enough to work the whole way round your car with space never mind spray it in there. What about oven to bake the paint after you spray it.

Only think that will happen is you have all the equipment with no use for it and a car thats got f**ked paint job and make it even harder for a pro to fix it.
Old 25-12-2005, 04:21 PM
  #43  
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abuse from dunlop?lol

and his isn't even an RS....lol
(only jokin dave)
Old 25-12-2005, 04:21 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by daviddunlop83
Wise up, Your garage isnt even big enough to work the whole way round your car with space never mind spray it in there. What about oven to bake the paint after you spray it.

Only think that will happen is you have all the equipment with no use for it and a car thats got f**ked paint job and make it even harder for a pro to fix it.
Wise up? My garage? Who said it was going to be painted in my garage lol it doesnt take a genius to figure out my garage isnt big enough for that lol. Oven to bake it, i wont have one of them.

Whether a car has a fucked paint job or not, its ALWAYS going to be fixable so it doesnt really matter. Obviously im not gonna get everything right the first time but im not gonna jump straight into spraying the car. Your problem along with your friends is you dont give people a chance to prove themselves, you instantly try and put people down.
Old 25-12-2005, 04:28 PM
  #45  
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You dont have to over bake paint...


So long as the booth is around 20şc the paint will be fine
Old 25-12-2005, 04:36 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Freddy_mercury_magic
You dont have to over bake paint...


So long as the booth is around 20şc the paint will be fine
Too right, i'm fed up of hearing people say that if you dont bake a paint job it wont cure properly or the colour wont be right etc. I sometimes paint cars last thing at night and dont bake them, and they are always fine in the morning.

At the end of the day if you fuck it up you have got 2 very easy choices, try and flat and polish it or block it down and do it again.

Its not the end of the world
Old 25-12-2005, 04:38 PM
  #47  
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I spelt oven wrong

Not over LOL


Cheers for backing that up tho
Old 25-12-2005, 04:50 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Matt_B
Originally Posted by Freddy_mercury_magic
You dont have to over bake paint...


So long as the booth is around 20şc the paint will be fine
Too right, i'm fed up of hearing people say that if you dont bake a paint job it wont cure properly or the colour wont be right etc. I sometimes paint cars last thing at night and dont bake them, and they are always fine in the morning.

At the end of the day if you fuck it up you have got 2 very easy choices, try and flat and polish it or block it down and do it again.

Its not the end of the world

exactly, and im not expecting to get it right first time.
Old 25-12-2005, 04:58 PM
  #49  
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Old 25-12-2005, 05:23 PM
  #50  
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Give it a go ,im trying myself and getting very good results ,Radders has given me lots of advice along the way ,cheers fella.
My bonnet which i have been working on ,and just sprayed in 2k paint .
Old 25-12-2005, 05:27 PM
  #51  
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Excellent mate, good to see im not the only tit game enough to give it a try, have you any advice?
Old 25-12-2005, 05:33 PM
  #52  
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Cheers dave


Was quite impressed when I come round and see your engine bay


Ryan if you havent seen Look at Daves resto

https://passionford.com/forum/viewto...824&start=1440
Old 25-12-2005, 05:37 PM
  #53  
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Thanks again for that link, its good to see people actually explaining what they are using and what they are doing makes it a lot easier for others like myself...
Old 25-12-2005, 05:51 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Ryan_Belfast
Excellent mate, good to see im not the only tit game enough to give it a try, have you any advice?
Hopefully the thread will help you ,but make sure the prep work is spot on and dont try to cut corners .If it does go wrong flat it down and have another go ,not the end of the world ,and keep things at a nice temp
Old 25-12-2005, 05:56 PM
  #55  
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Old 25-12-2005, 08:23 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Freddy_mercury_magic
You dont have to over bake paint...


So long as the booth is around 20şc the paint will be fine

I didnt say u had to bake it but professional painters bake it for a reason!

Fair enough if you were to do a bonnet or something but a whole car on first try.
Old 25-12-2005, 08:27 PM
  #57  
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@ ryan, right i'm not trying to start hassle, but spraying is way harder than it may seem as is the prep work. To be honest you'd be better learning on something less valuable to start then progress on from there.


Originally Posted by steven720
abuse from dunlop?lol

and his isn't even an RS....lol
(only jokin dave)
How about you wind your neck in?
Old 25-12-2005, 08:32 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by daviddunlop83
Originally Posted by Freddy_mercury_magic
You dont have to over bake paint...


So long as the booth is around 20şc the paint will be fine

I didnt say u had to bake it but professional painters bake it for a reason!

Fair enough if you were to do a bonnet or something but a whole car on first try.
What do you class as a Professional Painter, I have an NVQ Level 3 which is the best for my job, In the forces or civvie street

Ive painted a Beetle in a non-bake oven booth, Still as glossy as it was when the paint was wet, and as far as i know, the paint is still there


Car painters only bake the paint as after your vehicle is finished in the spray booth, it is moved to the bake oven. 40 minutes at 140 degrees gives your vehicle the equivalent of a 21-day cure

Its a time thing, as the car will more than likely need to be polished and waiting for 21+ days to do that is pointless....

Paint dont need to be baked for a perfect finish

Next.........
Old 25-12-2005, 08:33 PM
  #59  
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comments removed cause i dont know how to spray
Old 25-12-2005, 08:37 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Freddy_mercury_magic
Originally Posted by daviddunlop83
Originally Posted by Freddy_mercury_magic
You dont have to over bake paint...


So long as the booth is around 20şc the paint will be fine

I didnt say u had to bake it but professional painters bake it for a reason!

Fair enough if you were to do a bonnet or something but a whole car on first try.
What do you class as a Professional Painter, I have an NVQ Level 3 which is the best for my job, In the forces or civvie street

Ive painted a Beetle in a non-bake oven booth, Still as glossy as it was when the paint was wet, and as far as i know, the paint is still there


Car painters only bake the paint as after your vehicle is finished in the spray booth, it is moved to the bake oven. 40 minutes at 140 degrees gives your vehicle the equivalent of a 21-day cure

Its a time thing, as the car will more than likely need to be polished and waiting for 21+ days to do that is pointless....

Paint dont need to be baked for a perfect finish

Next.........
You know what you are doing, painting a whole car when you have never used a spray gun before in your life is stupid.
Old 25-12-2005, 08:41 PM
  #61  
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comments removed cause i dont know how to spray
Old 25-12-2005, 08:42 PM
  #62  
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Why is it, How esle do you learn to spray


And Ryan has said that hes not jumping straight onto a car.....

That beetle i mentioned, Was probably the 5th maybe 6th job i ever done and was the biggest i had at the time! ( Wish i had pictures )

I learnt by spraying chopped up wingtips of aircraft, Rubbed down and repainted until I and the intructors was happy!

Its the prep thats the hard part, Trust me
Old 25-12-2005, 08:44 PM
  #63  
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rsturboo


Ive mentioned all that....


And the man seems happy to take it on
Old 25-12-2005, 08:54 PM
  #64  
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comments removed cause i dont know how to spray
Old 25-12-2005, 08:58 PM
  #65  
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Old 25-12-2005, 08:59 PM
  #66  
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comments removed cause i dont know how to spray
Old 25-12-2005, 09:00 PM
  #67  
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Old 25-12-2005, 09:09 PM
  #68  
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comments removed cause i dont know how to spray
Old 25-12-2005, 09:33 PM
  #69  
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Right where have i said that I am going to completely do a full respray on my car?? I havnt said that... Im interested in learning and the only way to learn is to get hands on experience and do it. You guys can sit and gang up on me, tell me im a ballbag, tell me its going to turn out pink/orange whatever, i dont really care, in the long run im just trying to give myself a bit of experience...

Yes the first few attempts are probably going to turn out shite, that is to be expected, the world wasnt made in 24hrs, its going to take months/years to learn how to do it properly, but im willing to learn, so what has it got to do with any of you?

You can all sit there and have a giggle and say oh i cant wait until he fucks it up so i can laugh at him, really its a sad way to live.

Of all people, paul has actually put up a very constructive point, which is exactly what im going to do. Im not starting off straight into the cosworth ffs, that would be the stupidest thing ever. Ive already purchased a gun off ebay that will do me, compressor i will get at halfords during the week and im gonna buy a shitter car for about Ł50 and learn on that.

You all just need to get off my back a little, im wanting to learn and all your doing is being dicks!
Old 25-12-2005, 09:35 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by rsturboo
actually i really dont care what happens to this car its paint is crap anyway and its only a small turbo too.
You really cant comment on the condition of anyones car, remember your rs turbo.
Old 25-12-2005, 09:39 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Ryan_Belfast
Right where have i said that I am going to completely do a full respray on my car??

I said that but they didnt listen

Ive already purchased a gun off ebay that will do me, compressor i will get at halfords during the week

Have you got a link for the gun, Wouldnt mind a butchers


im gonna buy a shitter car for about Ł50 and learn on that.

, Best way mate, Put the car into sections aswell, 4 quarters id do, one quarter id brush paint so its all uneven, better practise for prep, another quarter with stone chips, etc etc you get what i mean


You all just need to get off my back a little, im wanting to learn and all your doing is being dicks!
Wouldnt let it get to you, I say fair play for wanting to try
Old 25-12-2005, 09:43 PM
  #72  
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if your gonna do it yourself mate,practice on scrap panels first to get yourself used to it!plus wot paint you gonna use?solvent based?water based?its not something that comes to you overnight,drying times vary depending on wot make of paint you use aswell,who you using?personally id use water based paint,the best paint ive worked with are glasurit and spies hecker!good luck to you though mate,and dont get any runs!
Old 25-12-2005, 09:44 PM
  #73  
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Gotta love ppl that think they know what their talkin about

Radds is right u dont need need 2 bake fuck all!!!!!!!! the reason cars are baked is bodyshops especially insurance ones have to get cars in painted and fooked off as quick as poss to make any profit, every min a cars on the premises not sprayed ur loosing money as insurance companys only pay a set amount of time so u go over it its ur loss!!! most big places sometimes have to do 50cars a day and you'd be lucky 2 get any done if u left them 2 air dry

As far as guns go ive only used devilbiss Gtis and their very good BUT ive bought a couple cheap ones on ebay and theres been problems with them had 2 replace bits (which luckly i borrowed from work )but still always best 2 get new if u can afford it!!! theres a company in germany doing Gti's for about Ł170 which is good as they retail at Ł300 odd!!! But as Damo said u dont need a Gti to get a good job and the budget lines they do like the finishline give a good finish 2, its the person putting it on half the time that fooks it up

Setup wise if ur going straight colour ie high solids (which u dont need 2 laquer) you prob want a 1.4 fluid tip and the same for laquer, if u wanna use basecoat same as really althou alot of ppl prefer a 1.3 tip as thats what we use at McLaren on all colours bar the main silver which has a course Aluminium in it

Conrtary to popular belief the isocynates arnt linked 2 cancer i found out when we had a medical a while back but............ the fumes are still fookin bad for u!!!!!!!!!! especially from laquer/high solids and solvent basecoats. Waterbourne stuff is alot safer hence them wanting everyone 2 be using it by 2007

But pretty much everything radders has said is spot on!!!

Basically any repairs ie filler work u do make sure its on bare metal and not over paint, when u block it down ALWAYS use a block 2 do it or it'll never be right (some ppl can do it with a DA if they've been doin it a long time) and make sure u use guide coat on it or lightly dust some matt black paint (trade spray) as it shows u any high/low spots as ur blocking.

With the primer, you want to do a few coats but each one make it a full coat and give it time 2 flash off before applying the next or it will blister up if u bake it. Then again when ur rubbing it down make sure u use a block and guide coat it up so u get all the orange peel out and get the shape ok!!

During each stage make sure u use a good degresant to clean it to make sure its free from grease, and if ur using waterbase u have to clean it with a 2nd degresant after escpeically for waterbased paints

When it comes 2 top coat if ur using high solids(straight colour) you want to do a light coat, then a full one and that should be enough, leave it for a few mins and if ur not happy with it or its 2 peely you can give it another full coat just not 2 heavy or you'll get waves/runs!!! then once its dry any bits ur not happy with u can rub out with some 1500 grit and mop it which is something else it'd be handy 2 have/borrow!!!!! a mop and polishing compound.

If u want to use basecoat and laquer with solvent basecoat you will prob need 2 use 2-3coats 2 get good coverage with the last being a drop coat which is a light coat over it again to make sure its not patchy anywhere!! Silvers are notorious for being patchy when u laquer them.

With waterbase basecoat they say you should only need a couple of coats and usually 1 light and a full should work ok but if not as many to get it looking right

Then with laquer a grip coat which is basically a light one, then a full coat, and just like high solids if need be another full coat if ur not happy with it

Then either bake it if ur using an oven or leave to air dry.


The BIGGEST thing i can reccomend is use a booth if poss, if u try and spray in a normal size garage all the overspray is a fookin nitemare to see thru sometimes and its also illegal to do these days!!! but u can get away with it if ur careful

If u feel u can do it mate go for it, all ur gonna loose out on is money at hte end of the day and if u dont mind then it dont mean fook all but beware if u have to take it somewhere after they can get funny and charge more 2 fix fuckups!!!

Biggest thing is get a decent mask, ur lungs will apreciate it air fed are the best but cartridge ones arnt 2 bad. and the biggest compressor u can as small ones can run out of steam part way thru spraying which is a fookin cooooont!! and use decent paint if u can as cheap stuff is cheap for a reason unless u know what ur lookin for

I did this in my first week at college mate its hard work, but not rocket science Good luck if u do it mate






and for any clever fucker that notices i know their different but i didnt have a before of the finished wing
Old 25-12-2005, 09:44 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by JezSierra
dont get any runs!
A run is better than a dry spot
Old 25-12-2005, 09:45 PM
  #75  
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comments removed cause i dont know how to spray
Old 25-12-2005, 09:45 PM
  #76  
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one like this one

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DEVILBISS-GRAV...QQcmdZViewItem
Old 25-12-2005, 09:48 PM
  #77  
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IMO mate a 1.5 tip is 2 big really for a decent finish might be ok for high solids but a deff no no really for basecoat u want a 1.4 max or 1.3!!!

I ususally use a 1.5 for primer...............
Old 25-12-2005, 09:49 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by rsturboo
yep my car was a peice of crap.

but you'll notice that it was my car, i got rid of it cause it was crap. and because i thought for a while i could fix it up myself in my garage then realised i was wrong and it needed to be done by a pro.

so i thought seeing as i tried a resto myself i'd give you some advice but sure have a dig, i dont mind at all. sticks and stones...

have fun painting your car it wont be the first time its been painted.
The maturity of you is mindblowing.

Sorry you didnt do any resto yourself, you left it all to your uncle to do!
Old 25-12-2005, 09:52 PM
  #79  
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I can see if i can change tips or anything.... Im gonna make a trip over to homebase 2moro and see if i can pick up some overalls and some facial protection.
Old 25-12-2005, 09:54 PM
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Toe Knee thanks for all that, very imformative!


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