Whats needed to make a zetec rev to 8500rpm
15-10-2005, 10:45 PM
#1
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
Whats needed to make a zetec rev to 8500rpm
just wondering what needs to be done to a zetec engine to safely rev it highly, to say 7500-8500rpm.
assuming its being fed enough air and fuel
ARP bolts in the bottom end
steel rods
all lightened and balanced with shot peened crank
is it a simple case of doing the above?
or is there more to it than this ?
assuming its being fed enough air and fuel
ARP bolts in the bottom end
steel rods
all lightened and balanced with shot peened crank
is it a simple case of doing the above?
or is there more to it than this ?
16-10-2005, 09:38 AM
#4
just finding my feet
think the rods stroke is a factor in the zetecs too i belive, dont quote me on that but sure its to do with th power band, as in why rev a car to 9k when the power is reached at 5500 
think cams/headwork are also a factor
think cams/headwork are also a factor
Trending Topics
16-10-2005, 11:04 AM
#13
DEYTUKURJERBS
Originally Posted by b19bal
Steve thats why i like the vvt idea
Its the turbo size needed for top end flow that will give it bugger all low down, nothing else.
16-10-2005, 11:04 AM
#14
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Essex
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Freddy_mercury_magic
PMSL Dave!!!!
Why the
Originally Posted by essexrsturbo
Originally Posted by Cliff S1
Solid lifters?
You worried that Radders and I are going to kick your arse
You worried that Radders and I are going to kick your arse
16-10-2005, 11:08 AM
#18
just finding my feet
Originally Posted by * Rudey *
Originally Posted by b19bal
rudey a little more info i think he wanted
may aswell reply 6k
may aswell reply 6k
that ok for ya
16-10-2005, 02:32 PM
#21
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
was just wondering really always nice to know more than you need to
yeah Dave, im shite'ing myself at the thought of you and radders going for my arse
will deffo have headwork and some form of non standard cam, but im unsure of turbo yet, i got a t34 but could fancy a t38. really just trying to get a few things sorted in my head cos i really dont know what spec i want yet
always nice to know more than you need to yeah Dave, im shite'ing myself at the thought of you and radders going for my arse
will deffo have headwork and some form of non standard cam, but im unsure of turbo yet, i got a t34 but could fancy a t38. really just trying to get a few things sorted in my head cos i really dont know what spec i want yet
16-10-2005, 02:57 PM
#22
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As well as the above sugestions you might want to look at inlet and outlet manifolds especialy if you want power peaking in the areas that your talking about. If done correctly LAG will be reduced creating greater drivability low down.
There is a point where the RST manifolds strangle the ability to make the power high up.
Good luck with your build
hth
There is a point where the RST manifolds strangle the ability to make the power high up.
Good luck with your build
hth
16-10-2005, 03:15 PM
#23
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
im not using standard manifolds, will be tubular exhaust with turbo mounted over the gearbox. as for inlet im not sure yet, got a modified rover m16 but am tempted to ditch that n go for a custom one.
17-10-2005, 11:38 AM
#26
PassionFord Post Troll
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 2,879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There are several elements that need to be addressed correctly here. One of them being you have to make sure the engine will consume the air just aswell as forcing it in with massive turbo's. If this isn't done properly with a correctly spec'ed engine you will be in the wonderful world of compressor surge which is a b!tch and the last thing you need. In essenence it's not just the wonderful bolt-on powder coated aftermarket inlet manifolds and fancy exhaust manifolds that will play the main role in achieving this. The actual engine spec and cylinder head is where you need to look at first and then look at whats the best way of putting the air in and out of the engine with inlets and exhaust manifolds etc. It will leave you out of pocket as you would of spent a shed load on a big turbo and perhaps custom exhaust manifold and ext wastegate depending on the spec of the turbo + the cost of doing what you should of done correctly in the first place again.
What sort of power are you looking to achieve? You don't nessesarly need to go maaaassive turbo to get good peak power and an engine that revs late. My old zetec turbo rev'ed upto 8500 rpm however on that setup I never went about 8200rpm for safety. My new engine on the other hand...... Lastly why do you want to rev to 8500rpm?
Thanks - Sunny.
What sort of power are you looking to achieve? You don't nessesarly need to go maaaassive turbo to get good peak power and an engine that revs late. My old zetec turbo rev'ed upto 8500 rpm however on that setup I never went about 8200rpm for safety. My new engine on the other hand......
Lastly why do you want to rev to 8500rpm?Thanks - Sunny.
17-10-2005, 04:53 PM
#29
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Freddy_mercury_magic
Originally Posted by Red16
As for inlet im not sure yet, got a modified rover m16 but WILL to ditch that and go for a custom one.
17-10-2005, 05:01 PM
#30
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by sunny
There are several elements that need to be addressed correctly here. One of them being you have to make sure the engine will consume the air just aswell as forcing it in with massive turbo's. If this isn't done properly with a correctly spec'ed engine you will be in the wonderful world of compressor surge which is a b!tch and the last thing you need. In essenence it's not just the wonderful bolt-on powder coated aftermarket inlet manifolds and fancy exhaust manifolds that will play the main role in achieving this. The actual engine spec and cylinder head is where you need to look at first and then look at whats the best way of putting the air in and out of the engine with inlets and exhaust manifolds etc. It will leave you out of pocket as you would of spent a shed load on a big turbo and perhaps custom exhaust manifold and ext wastegate depending on the spec of the turbo + the cost of doing what you should of done correctly in the first place again.
What sort of power are you looking to achieve? You don't nessesarly need to go maaaassive turbo to get good peak power and an engine that revs late. My old zetec turbo rev'ed upto 8500 rpm however on that setup I never went about 8200rpm for safety. My new engine on the other hand...... Lastly why do you want to rev to 8500rpm?
Thanks - Sunny.
What sort of power are you looking to achieve? You don't nessesarly need to go maaaassive turbo to get good peak power and an engine that revs late. My old zetec turbo rev'ed upto 8500 rpm however on that setup I never went about 8200rpm for safety. My new engine on the other hand......
Lastly why do you want to rev to 8500rpm?Thanks - Sunny.
i probs wont have it revving that high but its always nice to know more than you need to i cant ever remember this kinda topic being discussed on here so thought i'd start a thread on it, to see what sort of things people have been doing to achieve this.looking to achieve 400 bhp with similar torque as ball park figures, or somewhere there or there abouts
presently i have a t34 but im tempted to change it for something else. other than the rover inlet which radders says i WILL be changing, nothing else of the engine has been purchased yet. so i have a blank canvass 
18-10-2005, 02:48 PM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by sunny
Yo Rudez - all is well at this end mate. Long time no speak. Vice versa....hope you and your ladies are well. 
red just abit of info for ya when speccing mine i was quoted near 7k this was 350bhp i then asked to go 400 whats needed he said another 2.5- 3k so its all down to your walet really cheif 3k for 50 horses dont sound worth it does it and that was the exact reason i ditched my 1900 as to go anyfurther ment about the same money and same bhp gain
18-10-2005, 03:16 PM
#32
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: In front of computer
Posts: 3,638
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you fit a 400bhp, 400lb/ft engine to a 14+year old car, dont forget you will need a lot of other work done to the car, ie poss shell strength mods, proper brake setup, proper suspention kit, poss new bushes all round, and dont forget the biggest problem, the gear box.
As rudey says Ł7000 for your build, then gearbox of maybe Ł1100, etc.. you could easily spend Ł15000 on the upgrades.
As rudey says Ł7000 for your build, then gearbox of maybe Ł1100, etc.. you could easily spend Ł15000 on the upgrades.
18-10-2005, 03:22 PM
#33
PassionFord Post Troll
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 2,879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tony - as with anything...if your going to do it 'do it properly'. ie a 300bhp CVH will need exactly the same if your going to do it properly.
Most people don't realise but a genuine 300bhp is a monster....but like I said a genuine 300bhp.
Rudez
Most people don't realise but a genuine 300bhp is a monster....but like I said a genuine 300bhp.
Rudez
18-10-2005, 03:54 PM
#34
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: In front of computer
Posts: 3,638
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thats it Sunny, I think people sumtimes forget how old these cars are and a lot of components are ready to fail, things often over looked are, brake lines, servos, bushes, steering coloumes, alignment, rear arms, shell strength, electrics etc..
All imortant if your gonna put Ł5000+ into any old car. No point spending Ł10000 on your car and dodgy electrics causes a fire, or your fuel pump bracket has rusted off.
All imortant if your gonna put Ł5000+ into any old car. No point spending Ł10000 on your car and dodgy electrics causes a fire, or your fuel pump bracket has rusted off.
18-10-2005, 03:57 PM
#35
PassionFord Post Troll
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 2,879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thats only half of it. Even if all of the standard items were brand new...if they're not up to the job there's no point skimming it as accidents are bound to happen and at these levels when they do.....more than often there could be more involved than just a few scratches....safety first.
18-10-2005, 05:02 PM
#37
10K+ Poster!!
Thread Starter
tonyk
have a read of the thread in my signature, my rs is being rebuilt, seam welded shell, 6 point cage, front and rear weld in strut braces, rose jointed suspension, cossie 4 pots, rear disc conversion, the car will be quite solid... honest
as said above i was curious as to what was involved, didnt say i was going to go for 8500rpm
thanks for the input tho
have a read of the thread in my signature, my rs is being rebuilt, seam welded shell, 6 point cage, front and rear weld in strut braces, rose jointed suspension, cossie 4 pots, rear disc conversion, the car will be quite solid... honest
as said above i was curious as to what was involved, didnt say i was going to go for 8500rpm
thanks for the input tho