on a RST, when you remove the oil cap
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10-10-2005, 02:30 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
If the breather system is connected in any way with the metering unit as they are as standard, the engine will stall unless its VERY badly setup.
10-10-2005, 02:42 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
If the breather system is connected in any way with the metering unit as they are as standard, the engine will stall unless its VERY badly setup.
What if you don't have a metering unit ??
10-10-2005, 02:46 PM
#15
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Originally Posted by starturbo
Ive had three rs turbs and theyve all stalled when you do that.They even stall when you pull the dipstick out?God knows why?????
10-10-2005, 02:57 PM
#16
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If you don't have a metering unit, it won't stall! 
It's all related to the vacuum drawn by the engine and the fact that the breather is piped into the vacuum side of the metering unit. If you remove the breather from the meter unit, it won't stall as the vacuum is unaffected.
It's all related to the vacuum drawn by the engine and the fact that the breather is piped into the vacuum side of the metering unit. If you remove the breather from the meter unit, it won't stall as the vacuum is unaffected.
10-10-2005, 02:57 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by Stealth Bomber
Originally Posted by starturbo
Ive had three rs turbs and theyve all stalled when you do that.They even stall when you pull the dipstick out?God knows why?????
10-10-2005, 03:01 PM
#18
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Stealth Bomber wrote:
starturbo wrote:
Ive had three rs turbs and theyve all stalled when you do that.They even stall when you pull the dipstick out?God knows why?????
That's silly.
Might be silly but its true.I didnt design the bloody thing.
starturbo wrote:
Ive had three rs turbs and theyve all stalled when you do that.They even stall when you pull the dipstick out?God knows why?????
That's silly.
Might be silly but its true.I didnt design the bloody thing.
It's because the crankcase is part of the breather and plumbed into the metering head.
10-10-2005, 03:04 PM
#19
Lets throw an interesting scenario into it then....
I had a car towed here from another tuners that wouldnt idle after having Ł350 of injection parts thrown at it unsucesfully... after much pissin around and head scratching I fitted a crankshaft rear oil seal. Problem solved
Be carefull out there chaps
I had a car towed here from another tuners that wouldnt idle after having Ł350 of injection parts thrown at it unsucesfully... after much pissin around and head scratching I fitted a crankshaft rear oil seal. Problem solved
Be carefull out there chaps
10-10-2005, 03:08 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
after much pissin around and head scratching I fitted a crankshaft rear seal oil. Problem solved
Be carefull out there chaps
Be carefull out there chaps
10-10-2005, 03:10 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
Lets throw an interesting scenario into it then....
I had a car towed here from another tuners that wouldnt idle after having Ł350 of injection parts thrown at it unsucesfully... after much pissin around and head scratching I fitted a crankshaft rear seal oil. Problem solved
Be carefull out there chaps
I had a car towed here from another tuners that wouldnt idle after having Ł350 of injection parts thrown at it unsucesfully... after much pissin around and head scratching I fitted a crankshaft rear seal oil. Problem solved
Be carefull out there chaps
10-10-2005, 03:21 PM
#22
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i wouldnt say, that - but if probably indicates that u HAVE a seal of somesort...
Stu, im guessing it was big power MFi and the petrol in the oil had eaten the seal
Stu, im guessing it was big power MFi and the petrol in the oil had eaten the seal
10-10-2005, 03:21 PM
#23
Originally Posted by keithG666
Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
after much pissin around and head scratching I fitted a crankshaft rear seal oil. Problem solved
Be carefull out there chaps
Be carefull out there chaps
Originally Posted by starturbo
So thats a good way of knowing all your seals are ok then Stu?
10-10-2005, 03:54 PM
#24
Crank case/dip stick/breather/metering head are all connected on a standard car. Thus removing the oil filler/dipstick or any of the breather hoses will induce an unmetered air leak. If the cars not running SUPER rich then the chances are it will stall due to being to lean.
If you block the feed to the metering head this wont happen. However the breather system wont have the vacum its designed to have. Also if you remove the one way valves from the left hand nippled ontop of the inlet manifold the dipstick often blows out because the crank case receives boost pressure.
RW
If you block the feed to the metering head this wont happen. However the breather system wont have the vacum its designed to have. Also if you remove the one way valves from the left hand nippled ontop of the inlet manifold the dipstick often blows out because the crank case receives boost pressure.
RW
10-10-2005, 05:07 PM
#25
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just last week my car decided it didnt wanna idle at all just cut out, was fine if you give it a little revs and driving was ok to ( felt a little slugish ) so after checking pipes and anything else i could think of i changed the R/C gasket finding the old one had a hole in it no massive but big enough to cause me agro! BLOODY RST's lol
CheeRS
Craig
NYRSOC
CheeRS
Craig
NYRSOC
10-10-2005, 06:59 PM
#26
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R/C gasket
10-10-2005, 07:13 PM
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Anyone want to shed some light on why mine starts then stalls immediately? Then have to crank for about 40 seconds before it starts again??
Been driving me nuts, and I WILL keep this car in it's current form if someone CAN help me, please??
Been driving me nuts, and I WILL keep this car in it's current form if someone CAN help me, please??
10-10-2005, 07:21 PM
#30
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And why would I have that
Only ever started being a bitch when I tested the battery, was actually starter motor
Was fine uptil that point
Only ever started being a bitch when I tested the battery, was actually starter motor
Was fine uptil that point
10-10-2005, 07:24 PM
#31
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dunno mate
all it is, i had EXACTLY same prob on my fezzy, if it started and i revved the TITS off it for about 30-40 secs or so it would be ok
if i just started it, let it cut out, it could take MINUTES of cranking to get it to work.
It happened one night while a mate of mine who is more mechanically minded than me (hi tony), and all he could put it down to was the above reply.
take my reply with a pinch of salt tho matey
all it is, i had EXACTLY same prob on my fezzy, if it started and i revved the TITS off it for about 30-40 secs or so it would be ok
if i just started it, let it cut out, it could take MINUTES of cranking to get it to work.
It happened one night while a mate of mine who is more mechanically minded than me (hi tony), and all he could put it down to was the above reply.
take my reply with a pinch of salt tho matey
10-10-2005, 07:26 PM
#32
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Well, If I give my car ANY throttle it won't start full stop after the stall incident
If I just crank it's ok and will start after about 30 seconds...
If I just crank it's ok and will start after about 30 seconds...
10-10-2005, 08:05 PM
#33
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Mine will start, and then cut out, then it wont start, so i just get someone to hold the metering flap down a few mm and it'll fire up, run, but cut out if i give the throttle a jab, if i want i to rev from cold idle i need to bring the throttle on very slowly. . . i dont know if it will start without the metering flap being held down as i can be arsed cranking it to find out as it's just easier to hold the flap, i disco'd the cold start valve and it seemed to help a little at first, car doesnt get started often, so this prob the reason, but it done a 100 mile round trip, and iirc it struggled to start again the next day. but starts perfect if its been run, then left to cool down, just overnight it's a coont
p.s. mine cuts out when removing oil cap.
p.s. mine cuts out when removing oil cap.
10-10-2005, 08:31 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by vroooom ptssssh
Mine will start, and then cut out, then it wont start, so i just get someone to hold the metering flap down a few mm and it'll fire up, run, but cut out if i give the throttle a jab, if i want i to rev from cold idle i need to bring the throttle on very slowly. . . i dont know if it will start without the metering flap being held down as i can be arsed cranking it to find out as it's just easier to hold the flap, i disco'd the cold start valve and it seemed to help a little at first, car doesnt get started often, so this prob the reason, but it done a 100 mile round trip, and iirc it struggled to start again the next day. but starts perfect if its been run, then left to cool down, just overnight it's a coont
p.s. mine cuts out when removing oil cap.
p.s. mine cuts out when removing oil cap.
10-10-2005, 09:30 PM
#37
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James, im pretty sure u have the same problem as Linsay did. When u crank the engine, the vacume pulses the metering flap which allows it to start. Problem is, as the engine wears (urs has done a fair bit hasnt it?) the rings don't seal very well at such low cranking speeds, and it doesn't depress the flap. If u continue to crank and crank, eventually u build up enough fuel to fire the engine - the increase in speed draws the flap open further and keeps her running.
What sort of CO u running? Turn the CO screw 1/8 turn clockwise and see if this helps.
Rick.
What sort of CO u running? Turn the CO screw 1/8 turn clockwise and see if this helps.
Rick.
10-10-2005, 09:33 PM
#38
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VROOM and JAMES .....
check your fuel accumilators. little pots on the inner wing with a feed and return on top of it..
had the same problem on my xr2 turbo
check your fuel accumilators. little pots on the inner wing with a feed and return on top of it..
had the same problem on my xr2 turbo
10-10-2005, 09:41 PM
#39
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it will be the fuel press switch on side of the metering uniit i bet the wire is damaged!! saying that take the plug for the fuel ecu off and see if its starts better
