Fitting an MTX75 to an RST ZVH
#1
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Fitting an MTX75 to an RST ZVH
Is it an easy job ? simple straight swap for a IB box ?
have drive shafts as well.... anything else required ?
have drive shafts as well.... anything else required ?
#2
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Which MTX75? newer focus cable type or older RS2000 rod type? The n/s inner wing/arch will need cutting out, will need either a modified rod linkage or the focus cable linkage, Modified/shortened drive shafts, and modified gearbox mounts, I belive Jano at Oddkidd does a conversion (will hopefully be seeing him this week) which uses the Series 1 antiroll bar gearbox mount. If you are using a Zetec bottom end you may be able to utilise the three piece drive shaft setup.
Me personally I'm using the Focus MTX75 Box complete with Cable linkage, Hydrolic clutch, three piece driveshafts and Focus engine mounts.
Its by no means an easy conversion! Good luck!
Me personally I'm using the Focus MTX75 Box complete with Cable linkage, Hydrolic clutch, three piece driveshafts and Focus engine mounts.
Its by no means an easy conversion! Good luck!
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#10
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MTX75 is THE daddy for a FWD setup. The box takes around 300-350 bhp around 400 flbt. Great gear ratios The box can be found for as little as Ł100 and
many extras are easy to fit like ATB, Different gears etc...
A 2 shaft setup and 3 shaft setup are cheap compared to a Uprated gearbox made by a few companies across the UK
Loads of info is available on fitting, mounts, shafts, brackets etc...
Regards
Jano
many extras are easy to fit like ATB, Different gears etc...
A 2 shaft setup and 3 shaft setup are cheap compared to a Uprated gearbox made by a few companies across the UK
Loads of info is available on fitting, mounts, shafts, brackets etc...
Regards
Jano
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#28
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Originally Posted by glenis
http://members.lycos.co.uk/oddkidd/
erm the link is naff
If you right click on the page and click on properties you will get the correct link
should be summin like yours above then
viewtopic.php?t=486&start=15
Couldnt post the full link
And a pic to follow check the castings on the block also
Regards
#33
just finding my feet
oranoco thats a very blinkered comment there mate
what jano and others are doing is the same as what bernie has done, thinking about the problems and addressing em
BUT the ratios of the mtx75 are higher so ya may loose acceleration ( belive in you car its called wheel spin steve ) and gain lower revs at higher speeds like a cossie has ect so ya not reving the pants of it at 80 but cruising nicley
after looking into this i actually think its a good conversion just for the ratios, alot of newer cars have better ratios remember
what jano and others are doing is the same as what bernie has done, thinking about the problems and addressing em
BUT the ratios of the mtx75 are higher so ya may loose acceleration ( belive in you car its called wheel spin steve ) and gain lower revs at higher speeds like a cossie has ect so ya not reving the pants of it at 80 but cruising nicley
after looking into this i actually think its a good conversion just for the ratios, alot of newer cars have better ratios remember
#34
just finding my feet
the conversion aint cheep though BUT its cause theres alot of outlay for stuff
but then sell ya box for 150 quid, buy the brackets for 250 and then shafts for 300 and get a box for ????
the bit im not a fan of is haviong to get a S1 roll bar, why is that, any pics for the reason for it
also whats the price for ya modded linkage or whats the price of the parts to mod it
im posting on here as i dont use ya forum much and i hate the black dull background
also im sure a few people on here are interested and as others mention products from there tuners then im sure me mentioning prices of a product im thinking of dont make a difference either
oh and the bernie does this and that is a pointless argument as there not the same box !!!!
its like someone mentioning a 16v conversion and replying " a 1.6 will do 250bhp"
when its actually true, its of no relevence
by the way im not a oddkid groupie but i do know a good idea when i read one
but then sell ya box for 150 quid, buy the brackets for 250 and then shafts for 300 and get a box for ????
the bit im not a fan of is haviong to get a S1 roll bar, why is that, any pics for the reason for it
also whats the price for ya modded linkage or whats the price of the parts to mod it
im posting on here as i dont use ya forum much and i hate the black dull background
also im sure a few people on here are interested and as others mention products from there tuners then im sure me mentioning prices of a product im thinking of dont make a difference either
oh and the bernie does this and that is a pointless argument as there not the same box !!!!
its like someone mentioning a 16v conversion and replying " a 1.6 will do 250bhp"
when its actually true, its of no relevence
by the way im not a oddkid groupie but i do know a good idea when i read one
#35
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Originally Posted by b19bal
im posting on here as i dont use ya forum much and i hate the black dull background
Originally Posted by b19bal
by the way im not a oddkid groupie but i do know a good idea when i read one
I copied and pasted this off our site.
"Ratios are very important for the type of drive you want and expect from our cars...
As we have been set industry standard ways for years, people forget the amount of mods and difference these ratios make to our motors. Lets face it 98% of the Escort RST's have the same (ish) box's i.e Mk3/4 or even the mk5/6/7 escort petrol or diesel boxes. Most of these metioned have the same ratio's or at least very similar, which in turn means that anyone driving these box's will need to change gear at the same time depending on boost and setup etc...
What this means for our cars is, even if you are the same spec as the car next to you in a race. The car with the MTX will be further forward than the car next to it by the time it needs to change gear. NOW think if you have a mighty engine and the MTX75 your gonna be well away"
As we have been set industry standard ways for years, people forget the amount of mods and difference these ratios make to our motors. Lets face it 98% of the Escort RST's have the same (ish) box's i.e Mk3/4 or even the mk5/6/7 escort petrol or diesel boxes. Most of these metioned have the same ratio's or at least very similar, which in turn means that anyone driving these box's will need to change gear at the same time depending on boost and setup etc...
What this means for our cars is, even if you are the same spec as the car next to you in a race. The car with the MTX will be further forward than the car next to it by the time it needs to change gear. NOW think if you have a mighty engine and the MTX75 your gonna be well away"
#36
just finding my feet
your welcome
but please need a reply why a S1 roll bar is needed as im prob gonna do this on my cabrio hence i need the info, im only doing it for the ratios btw as if it was strength only a bernie box would be my choice, but ratios are soooooo needed on the erst is untrue
but please need a reply why a S1 roll bar is needed as im prob gonna do this on my cabrio hence i need the info, im only doing it for the ratios btw as if it was strength only a bernie box would be my choice, but ratios are soooooo needed on the erst is untrue
#37
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Sorry b19bal, missed that question.
The reason is partly because my brackets and mount etc are designed with the S1 or 16i roll bar or even a Mk3 rol bar
The reason i used this type of rollbar is because it is by far better for the Handling (obviously not the STD MK3 one) these rollbars have a seperate tie bars to the roll bar, Whicch means you can adjust where the wheel sits in the arch, Easy to change box's, dont break mounts all the time, have better mountings to the gearbox, uprated bushes are by far better compared to the mk4, can be fabricated even more to become simply THE BEST ROLL BAR FOR ANY MK3/4. Also i have a few extra items i have designed for the roll bar and mtx which adds to strength, like a support bar that make an extra mounting point and stops even more movment and clamps which seperate the tie bar and the roll bar even more to stop the twist.
The craddle for the std mk4 fittment is very crude and was designed to save money! It has crap supports for the box think about where the actual nuts are that hold the mount in place.... The roll bar on a mk4 can be twisted by hand when on the floor with nothing attached now think of it with a 1000kg car turning The corner brackets for these roll bars crack and snap even on std cars. The bushes are shite even when uprated. The roll bar is different in shape each side of it which in my books must mean that the twist each side is different.
I could think of loads more small things that add up to a CRAP ROLL BAR
Dont get me wrong if you really want to use the std roll bar , i could make new mounts to work with it. But after reading the above surely you would agree that the pro's and con's add up to the S1/16i etc roll bar.
Regards
Jano
The reason is partly because my brackets and mount etc are designed with the S1 or 16i roll bar or even a Mk3 rol bar
The reason i used this type of rollbar is because it is by far better for the Handling (obviously not the STD MK3 one) these rollbars have a seperate tie bars to the roll bar, Whicch means you can adjust where the wheel sits in the arch, Easy to change box's, dont break mounts all the time, have better mountings to the gearbox, uprated bushes are by far better compared to the mk4, can be fabricated even more to become simply THE BEST ROLL BAR FOR ANY MK3/4. Also i have a few extra items i have designed for the roll bar and mtx which adds to strength, like a support bar that make an extra mounting point and stops even more movment and clamps which seperate the tie bar and the roll bar even more to stop the twist.
The craddle for the std mk4 fittment is very crude and was designed to save money! It has crap supports for the box think about where the actual nuts are that hold the mount in place.... The roll bar on a mk4 can be twisted by hand when on the floor with nothing attached now think of it with a 1000kg car turning The corner brackets for these roll bars crack and snap even on std cars. The bushes are shite even when uprated. The roll bar is different in shape each side of it which in my books must mean that the twist each side is different.
I could think of loads more small things that add up to a CRAP ROLL BAR
Dont get me wrong if you really want to use the std roll bar , i could make new mounts to work with it. But after reading the above surely you would agree that the pro's and con's add up to the S1/16i etc roll bar.
Regards
Jano
#38
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Just to add, if you look in the pic of the engine bay you can see the two bars on the rollbar if you have a S1 compare the distance they are apart. The bottom one in the pic (TIE BAR) is made from Stainless steel and is NOT hollow like the std item. It is also oversized for strength with an adjustable tie rod end.
Regards
Regards
#39
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what work would be fitting one of these to a fiesta with a cvh?
is there any way of having the starter mounted at the front rather than at the back like normal for these box's?
is there any way of having the starter mounted at the front rather than at the back like normal for these box's?
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xrsi, the starter is at the front!
I am making mounts for the FRST as i have a person/car who i would like to use it in his FRST, he is a member of this site also, and has great curves for the torque and bhp so would be VERY interesting to see what sort of extra MPH he could get and how much lower his times would be for the 1/4 mile.
Regards
Jano
I am making mounts for the FRST as i have a person/car who i would like to use it in his FRST, he is a member of this site also, and has great curves for the torque and bhp so would be VERY interesting to see what sort of extra MPH he could get and how much lower his times would be for the 1/4 mile.
Regards
Jano