cosworth tuning guide
#41
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That's interesting. Would it be possible to improve the YB fuel consumption during cruise by opening the waste gate? I know that with the standard amal valve and actuator it's not possible, since it needs pressure to open. But with a different controller I guess it should be possble in some way.
yes it would be possible, something I will be looking into but the controllers are not easy to find for the vac system, and they need to be quite clever in how they operate to ensure the gates close when they need too, so would need quite a lot of inputs for data.
#42
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my last engine was -
Standard bottom end
Standard head
Grp A HG
Standard Head bolts
Standard cams
72lb blacks
SCS Spec RB T38
L8
New Engine Loom and Sensor Kit
Live mapped at NMS, karl said it was in the region of 420bhp when i collected it ( this was 3yrs ago, im on a different spec now)
Standard bottom end
Standard head
Grp A HG
Standard Head bolts
Standard cams
72lb blacks
SCS Spec RB T38
L8
New Engine Loom and Sensor Kit
Live mapped at NMS, karl said it was in the region of 420bhp when i collected it ( this was 3yrs ago, im on a different spec now)
#43
PassionFord Post Whore!!
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That's interesting. Would it be possible to improve the YB fuel consumption during cruise by opening the waste gate? I know that with the standard amal valve and actuator it's not possible, since it needs pressure to open. But with a different controller I guess it should be possble in some way.
Mark
#44
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come on then peeps, lets see some realistic build specs then.....................
ok, so lets say, 400hp target.
assume bog standard car.
lets see what people can come up with, if you spec it i'll price it.
list all that will be required i.e turbo, management if changed, loom etc etc
i have no idea of whats what as im more comfortable tuning cvh's
ok, so lets say, 400hp target.
assume bog standard car.
lets see what people can come up with, if you spec it i'll price it.
list all that will be required i.e turbo, management if changed, loom etc etc
i have no idea of whats what as im more comfortable tuning cvh's
Mark
#46
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
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Interesting thread, i will be trying to build an engine later in the year with about 450BHP i am looking at an Emtron ECU, what other stuff would i need to do to the engine to achieve this kind of power. The engine has a 205 block, would that be OK? Havenet stripped it yet so dont know how good it is was thinking of installing it 1st to test all the other circuits and upgrades.
#47
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Correct. 4x4 engine, 200 block. That is it. Mark swapped the green injectors out for 1000cc ones so we had nice new ones for reliability and future proof for upgrades.
With head, cams and pistons along with long studs my engine will do another 50bhp so 530bhp, after that the turbo will run out of puff and 570 ish would be possible on the next turbo up.
Last edited by Caddyshack; 29-05-2015 at 01:19 PM.
#48
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Thread Starter
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Glad you're here Mark shead. The price isn't really a factor as I know that with performance it comes at a price.
If I said £2k or 5k the spec would be changed to suit so I would rather have a spec and budget accordingly.
If I said £2k or 5k the spec would be changed to suit so I would rather have a spec and budget accordingly.
#49
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Chris
What year is your escort ?? You might be running the late engine management which you would need to change as it's only capable of producing 350 BHP unless you have an early model or the previous owner has installed a level 8 or p8
What year is your escort ?? You might be running the late engine management which you would need to change as it's only capable of producing 350 BHP unless you have an early model or the previous owner has installed a level 8 or p8
#50
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Can you please supply a cost breakdown then.
£700 Ecu, does that come with the sensors? if no how much to add them. How much would it be for someone to build the loom. How much would it cost for someone to install it. how much to add wasted spark (coilpack and leads ect).
I don't think 2.5k is high, I was including mapping with in that price.
£700 Ecu, does that come with the sensors? if no how much to add them. How much would it be for someone to build the loom. How much would it cost for someone to install it. how much to add wasted spark (coilpack and leads ect).
I don't think 2.5k is high, I was including mapping with in that price.
Going off my recent ECU swap, very rough prices off the top of my head
New ECU - £700
New Coilpack £40
New custom HT leads £50
Knock sensor £10
Wideband Lambda (if you dont already have one fitted) £150
Boost Solenoid £50
Wiring and plugs (DIY starting from bare loom supplied with ECU) £150ish
Mapping £250
Use existing TPS, ECT, ACT,
Sell old 3 bar MAP sensor and use ECU internal one -£100
Sell old L8 CU £200
Sell other old bits, loom, coil, leads, amal valve....
Probably forgotten something there but that's a net outlay of roughly £1100 so even if you pay someone say £300 to build you an engine loom you are still under 1.5k
Last edited by fraser9764; 29-05-2015 at 03:31 PM.
#52
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
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chemical cleaned, new cores, checked bores/redone, new pistons wi cutouts, abo8 cam, mild head,fully rebuilt,multilayer gasket, decked block an head, long screwed. regrind and new shells. new water,oil pumps+ belts. oh and aftermarket ecu,new loom and TWINSCROLL, external wastegate and two stage boost control. with a screen type control to check on sensors etc.
so i guess thats blown the budget, especially if you have to get it professionally built(only a plonker wouldnt with this spec)
below is copy/paste form mike rainbird thread.
As has been pointed out, you're on a slippery slope. If you go for more power than you already have, then you WILL need to do the transmission (or you will be scared to use it properly).
If you don't want the expense of this, then you really have no choice but to stay below 400lbft.
However, I would point out that there is a HUGE difference between generic guestimated 380bhp off the shelf chip and a true live mapped, engine dyno confirmed 380bhp.
If you want a lovely ROAD car, this would be my spec:
Roller-bearing T34 with 0.48 a/r turbine.
Siemens 55s
Nice inlet cam
+ Option 2
+ Live mapped
It won't be the quickest car on track, but there won't be many cars on the road that will keep with it - purely because it will be making full boost at around 3000rpm.....
so i guess thats blown the budget, especially if you have to get it professionally built(only a plonker wouldnt with this spec)
below is copy/paste form mike rainbird thread.
As has been pointed out, you're on a slippery slope. If you go for more power than you already have, then you WILL need to do the transmission (or you will be scared to use it properly).
If you don't want the expense of this, then you really have no choice but to stay below 400lbft.
However, I would point out that there is a HUGE difference between generic guestimated 380bhp off the shelf chip and a true live mapped, engine dyno confirmed 380bhp.
If you want a lovely ROAD car, this would be my spec:
Roller-bearing T34 with 0.48 a/r turbine.
Siemens 55s
Nice inlet cam
+ Option 2
+ Live mapped
It won't be the quickest car on track, but there won't be many cars on the road that will keep with it - purely because it will be making full boost at around 3000rpm.....
#53
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
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THIS SOUNDS LIKE YOU LOL....(also robbed from cosy owner)
I need some help!! I'm currently going round in circles and failing to make any decisions.....
My engine needs a rebuild. Spoke to one of the well known outfits last week, but don't want to keep hassling them while I can't make my mind up.
My engine was totally standard BT with light blues and airtec 62mm intercooler, running probably 380bhp ish.
I don't want to throw too much money at it to then be disappointed or frustrated. My options (with rough prices) seem to be:
1) rebuild to standard spec with a ybp head gasket. Guess this will restrict me to c.400bhp whatever turbo I fit due to the head gasket. Cost of this would be roughly £4,200.
2). As above, but fit 6 long studs and wrc head gasket. Cost would be c. £4,800. In the future I coul have the option of changing the turbo and get up to maybe 450bhp before the lack of a ported head stopped anything more.
3). As 2, but add a ported head, uprated cams, vernier pulleys. Cost now up to £6,200. Presumably up to about 500bhp would then be possible with the right turbo.
My gearbox is currently standard, and given what the engine is going to cost, it's going to have to stay standard for the time being.
My current thinking is to go for option 2. I'll then have a bottom end which I wouldn't have to touch again for only £600 more than option 1. I could also up the power at some point to mid 400s (and if I used a T38 could probabky get away with sticking with the standard gearbox). If I then got sucked into the "I NEED 500bhp, I'd only need to het the head removed and ported.
The car is road use only btw. What do people think I should do???
I need some help!! I'm currently going round in circles and failing to make any decisions.....
My engine needs a rebuild. Spoke to one of the well known outfits last week, but don't want to keep hassling them while I can't make my mind up.
My engine was totally standard BT with light blues and airtec 62mm intercooler, running probably 380bhp ish.
I don't want to throw too much money at it to then be disappointed or frustrated. My options (with rough prices) seem to be:
1) rebuild to standard spec with a ybp head gasket. Guess this will restrict me to c.400bhp whatever turbo I fit due to the head gasket. Cost of this would be roughly £4,200.
2). As above, but fit 6 long studs and wrc head gasket. Cost would be c. £4,800. In the future I coul have the option of changing the turbo and get up to maybe 450bhp before the lack of a ported head stopped anything more.
3). As 2, but add a ported head, uprated cams, vernier pulleys. Cost now up to £6,200. Presumably up to about 500bhp would then be possible with the right turbo.
My gearbox is currently standard, and given what the engine is going to cost, it's going to have to stay standard for the time being.
My current thinking is to go for option 2. I'll then have a bottom end which I wouldn't have to touch again for only £600 more than option 1. I could also up the power at some point to mid 400s (and if I used a T38 could probabky get away with sticking with the standard gearbox). If I then got sucked into the "I NEED 500bhp, I'd only need to het the head removed and ported.
The car is road use only btw. What do people think I should do???
#54
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My 36,000 mile gearbox lasted under 100 miles once I went over 400 ftlb. It is a 4x4 though. The solution is expensive whichever route you go down when you do box and diffs
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