Well after owning my 2nd sapphire for a year I sold it as I wasn't using it as much due to using my van,but after a month nearly of it gone I have the bug for a fast car again
I'm looking into buying a escort cosworth but want to no are all the same signs of buying a sierra the same as the escort.really want a red one but are hard to find IMO .is the small turbo or big turbo the one to go for?

 

Just check them all over for rust matey.

I would love an escort cossie myself. I just love the look of them.

 

I had one but prefer a saff if I'm honest .
Test drive one first

 

Ive got one of each and id say the saph is a better drive

 

BT really IF you plan on tuning in the future, the ST you is more drivable which was what it was designed to do, but it does limit the tuning scope.

Yes, the engine and running gear are the same.

Martin

 

The fuse boxes can cause all sorts of trouble too.

 

As far as what to look for, I would say the same as all old performance cars. Make sure it's had money spent in the right areas and not just to make it go faster. Check for rust everywhere including bottom of doors and tail gate along with the other areas.

I would say big turbo is the one to go for if given a choice, although personally I would buy on condition and credentials if I had both side by side.

I loved mine and am looking to get another next year in either imperial blue or gloss black.

Good luck with your search.

 

theres a few around at moment at pretty decent prices, I'm off with a pal on saturday to look one over with him as he is after his 5th cossie to add to his fleet, and knowing him I will be driving it back as he asks the right questions and requires evidence before even going to look

 

The EsCos is a nice looking car but the fuse boxes would scare me away, even if its reliable apart from that. The Saff is bullet proof both in electrical and technical.

 

Nick I would love an imperial blue escos. The best colour imo.

Steve do you not fancy a cossie.

 

i was fortunate enough to buy a stage 3 BT model in pacifica blue this year and love it, its an experience all grown men should go through

 

I try mate and will be at yours early as Im sure it will be coming home with us, history and condition are reported as top drawer and been looking for a decent big turbo for ages

 

the fuse box if it does go tits up is not that hard to fix,if you get a new one its a 30 min job,they can be fixed if you are good with a soldering iron and have a bit of time
cheeRS gary

 

I brought mine last year and to be honest, so far its been nothing but a head ache...

I did see a few before I brought my one. Its had a fair few owners but know a couple of them only owned the car for a month. It did have money spent in te right places, 6 long studs, wrc head gasket etc and a magazine feature. Engine ran sweet, no smoke, knocks or taps.

First thing is turbo needed a rebuilded. Car had a slight oil leak so changed gaskets and seals. Also needed to have a couple of threads repaired. I then change inlet cam for ab07, a brand new standard exhaust, new followers, had to again repair threads, 5 of them I think.

I brought all new sensors and wasted spark set up with new spark plugs and full service. Also needed 2 new lower arms as ball joints were on last legs.

The clutch release bearing was a little noisy and had a 6 paddle clutch so brough new ap organic and hydraulic clutch convesion. Also brought a spare gearbox and fly wheel so that could be skimmed and hydraulic fitted to do an easy swap over. I ordered new exhaust studs and again had to repair threads as well as chisal out all 4 front prop bolts. Everything I have touched all bar gearbox and subframe has had new bolts, washers and nuts.

Whilst doing this work I also brought an ecu monitor and fitted that, when car was up and running again it showed low oil pressure, so I ordered a new high flow oil pump and was hoping to change that and the bearings leaving the engine in the car, how wrong I was. I thought I need to do compression test before doing the work, lucky I did as one cylinder is low. I am now waiting for a leakage tool to arrive so I can do a leakage test and try find the problem.

Even now the engine runs perfect, without doing the tests I have done you would never know that theres a problem, its just how far do you go when going to look at a car???

Now I feel I asked the right things, looked for the right things and spent my money on the right things, do I regret buying it.... HELL NO, I just need to go look at her, it was the car of my era, always wanted one. The few times I have driven it, people love it, its something you see less and less of, people just stop what they are doing to check out the car, I dont like the attention myself but I remember getting excited like them when I used to see escorts and sierras all those years ago

All I would say is be prepared to work on the car or have money to pay for it to be repaired, dont cut corners with anything, do it right and do it once..... cant wait to be driving the old girl again.... very soon

 

I would expect nothing less from a grove garage and turbosystems maintained car the fact its £21k is besides the point

 

I had a fuse board go on my Escort. Just changed the whole board

 

The thing with most performance cars they have had hard life. Plus cossies are old technology.

 

RS2000 has the exact same fault, cost me £140 for a complete rewire of the fuse box but that was a while back. Sadly a water trap where they sit

 

Is the rs2000 one the same then ? Got two in my work shop lol

 

indeed, and further the "normal" MK5/6 escorts suffer from cold solder joints, not sure about the MK7. The Scorpio 1 Facelift and Scorpio 2 (the Scorpio 1 pre-facelift til 1991 is bullet proof). If your fuse boxes are still in good working order I would use car body sealant around the boxes. It won't stop the cold solder joints, but ingress of water from below. And keep the water outlet always clean...... cause the fuse boxes on the mentioned cars are only bad sealed from below.

 

Could you not put grease over the soldered joints to stop them going dry.