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Supra diff fitting (MK kit) problems...

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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 06:24 PM
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Default Supra diff fitting (MK kit) problems...

Hi lads, I just wondered if anybody else was having as much ballache as me trying to fit their supra diff into their cosworth, as its started to really annoy me now.

Just wanted to make it known this hasn’t anything to do with the kit I used which was MK’s kit that I brought a while ago, as what I can see it’s a great quality kit.

Ok first of started mocking up the bits and found this –



Then found the new stud hidden at the bottom of the box, DOH!

But the back black bracket still wouldn’t fit flush so I had to file off four of the rear fins as shown in this picture with the slight different colour.

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Today on my only day off I attempted to fit in the rear hoop and found another bloody problem, after working out how the side brackets attach, well I think I have, is this right?



So I managed to get one side of the front of the diff fitted but when I tried to put the other side in, it was 5mm short, in the pic it isn’t very clear but the brass part should be inline with the black part at the top /

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After for the third time taking it apart, I noticed it’s the hoop that stopping the diff move forward as shown in these pics with the rubbage on the freshly powder coated hop, grr and the diff casing…

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So I left it like this as I was pretty fed up.

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So what do people think?

Anybody else had this trouble?

Should I grind some off the casing or bend the hop to make it fit?

I take it it’s the diff as the beam had a normal 7.5in in before no problem.

Or what ive seen people fit them while the hoop is still on the car, would this make a difference cause you can drop the rear down?

Do they fit level once fitted?
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 07:24 PM
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You need the whole beam in the car before you fit the diff, well it's the easiest way as you need to pry the diff down to tighten the front two diff mount bolts as they sit directly over the top of the two countersunk bolts (make sure they are proper flush too as they touch the diff mount bolts.

Your second to last picture, just above the brass coloured insert the casting thats 90 degree anticlockwise has to be cut off as it will fowl the exhaust system - most do both sides

Don't worry these are tight as fuck to get in, i had to shave the starting threads on the top right silver bolt as it was just a couple of mm out of line but caused massive issues and purely wouldn't go in.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 07:38 PM
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hi
we have been noticing that there can be a lot of differences in the diffs ,ie the fins and lugs etc ,so it can be a case of trimming fins and lugs etc on the diff
also leave everything loose until you have all the bolts etc started then tighten all bolts a bit at a time ,this kit was done as a bolt in kit which it is but can be a pain ,as were trying to fit something that is bigger than standard into the beam,it had to be in this position for drive shaft align and prop position ,so just take your time and have patience as there are lots of people how have them fitted so they do go in,plus people who are having there beams powdercoated seem to forget this can add 2/3 mm on faces and holes etc and looking at yours you haven cleaned it off faces or out of holes

mark

Last edited by MK MOTORSPORT; Nov 9, 2013 at 07:41 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 07:48 PM
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Diff casings do vary as I have two here and the rear covers are different in fin design.

Stick the kit up for sale mate....I need one lol

Steve
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 07:53 PM
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I think most have to shave the rear case fins, i'd take marks advice and clean every hole up as i said above i was a couple of mm out and believe me it only sounds a bit but it just wouldn't bit so there's modding to do but is expected due to the mass variation in diff casings
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 07:53 PM
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Yep I agree the beam in the car is the way, I had to trim the side of the diff to clear my beam.

I think the castings vary a lot as my rear case cleared the Mk mount by a few mm, and my mates cleared on the back and the side

Mine fitted all loose first then did it all up tight, positioned the diff to body mount, pinched with the two bolts you can still get to. Then dropped the diff back down and tightened the two that you can't get at ( front two ) then bolted the diff back up and bolt the diff mount up all loose, then tighten.

I have had my motorsport development diff mount counter sunk ( front bolts only ) as I only had 1 or 2mm clearance and didn't want the hassle of taking it out later if it did touch.

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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 07:57 PM
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Thats a good idea with the diff mount as mine was completely touching when i fitted so a countersunk bolt would make all the difference in fitting i think - is their enough material in there to do it so the bolt sits flush or not?
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 08:06 PM
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Yeah pretty much the same as the top Mk plate, its quite thick alloy it is about 1mm proud done up . It's left about 5mm between there now.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 08:43 PM
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Arh lads, your all legends!!!

Good point bout cap head bolts on the diff mount, hadn't thought about the part yet, lol

So the second and third last pic, think it be better to take off the lip on the hoop or take a little off the diff casing? I won't go into the actual diff champer will I? It feels pretty solid, ie just part of the casing.

And thanks mark for the heads up on cleaning off the paint.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 08:51 PM
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Yep.. Mine was a pig as well.
Fin shaving, exhaust re-routing etc etc. Had to bin the ARB on the 3dr as well. (TS kit)
Such a tight squeeze in the end!

Have you had the diff rebuilt mate? Mine was shagged . It's off being rebuilt at the mo.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 08:59 PM
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Oh yes, bara had mine, needed new bearings, seals etc etc

Big bill (
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bigluke200
Yep.. Mine was a pig as well.
Fin shaving, exhaust re-routing etc etc. Had to bin the ARB on the 3dr as well. (TS kit)
Such a tight squeeze in the end!

Have you had the diff rebuilt mate? Mine was shagged . It's off being rebuilt at the mo.

good call most of them will be well worn out by now probably.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by peteh
Arh lads, your all legends!!!

Good point bout cap head bolts on the diff mount, hadn't thought about the part yet, lol

So the second and third last pic, think it be better to take off the lip on the hoop or take a little off the diff casing? I won't go into the actual diff champer will I? .
I will get a pic for you mate, its the diff I ground off to clear the beam, then the diff moves forward fine to the bolt holes.

I was gonna see how mine goes as I fancy a 3.9 anyway and I have got to run in the new engine anyway then rebuild my fave with the weir products.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Ade500
I will get a pic for you mate, its the diff I ground off to clear the beam, then the diff moves forward fine to the bolt holes.

I was gonna see how mine goes as I fancy a 3.9 anyway and I have got to run in the new engine anyway then rebuild my fave with the weir products.
cheers mate, ill await the pic before i get my grinder out, lol
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:29 AM
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if anyone is having trouble sourcing a diff or fitting a kit speak to cochyn ,he was the one that started all this off so with out him this wouldnt be happening,the kit is very easy to fit in my opinion just a bit of tweeking on the diff

thanks mark
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by MK MOTORSPORT
if anyone is having trouble sourcing a diff or fitting a kit speak to cochyn ,he was the one that started all this off so with out him this wouldnt be happening,the kit is very easy to fit in my opinion just a bit of tweeking on the diff

thanks mark
so im best to take abit off the diff mark not the hoop mounting plates?

as mark said 'cochyn' actually emailed me shortly after posting this, thought who the f@k is that, then realised, doh.

so if anyone wants his email, pm me.
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