fao glass fitters
02-10-2013, 04:54 PM
#1
fao glass fitters
quick question for ya
I need to get the glass removed from the frame as I need to repair the metal frame, would i just get a windscreen fitter to cut through the bonding or is it something I can do myself without special tools?
Pic of the rust i need to deal with
ive got a spare rusty sunroof that I intend in using to chop sone repair bits from then get it zinc coated and the painted as they all seam to rot
any help hints or tips will be much appreciated
Cheers
Matt
I need to get the glass removed from the frame as I need to repair the metal frame, would i just get a windscreen fitter to cut through the bonding or is it something I can do myself without special tools?
Pic of the rust i need to deal with
ive got a spare rusty sunroof that I intend in using to chop sone repair bits from then get it zinc coated and the painted as they all seam to rot
any help hints or tips will be much appreciated
Cheers
Matt
02-10-2013, 05:28 PM
#3
I looked into taking the original glass outta the sunroof on my saph to keep the glass all matching with the etching. I chickened out of doing it tho as I didn't want to break it. But saying that I reckon you could get the glass out using cheese/music wire and cut it out that way.
02-10-2013, 05:32 PM
#4
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Mine was that bad it literally just came apart when i pulled it! It is only just bonded on like the rear quarter ones on a 3dr, just use a sharp blade to start it then like u say cheese wire. Hope that helps 
02-10-2013, 06:03 PM
#5
While I've never actually taken the actual bit of glass out of a sunroof frame before (typically, new sunroofs come in frames, so it's just a bolt job) I see no reason why you can't remove it, provided there's access to the bond to cut through.
Pics aren't really clear, but if there is room to get to the bond all the way round, from the inside, then I'd do it using one of these;
But with non-segmented blades (as they are crap and keep breaking apart when you put too much pressure on them).
Protect the glass best you can, both inside and out, as it will be easy to scratch it. I'd advise sticky back plastic (the thicker the better) on the outside, and lay it flat on a bench on a towel. That way, the plastic protects from scratches, the towel acts as a soft surface, and should the worst happen and you blow the glass up, the plastic will keep it all together, bit like window tints. On the inside I'd plastic it again, then get some card or something to go between it and your hand / knife handle.
Get a squirty bottle (with jet spray, rather than fan spray) and fill it will screen wash. Use this to squirt along the bond line where you're cutting; acts as a lubricant. Don't use silicone spray or grease, as it's a nightmare to fully clean off, and if it's not all gone, it'll make rebonding it a nightmare. Spray 4-6" at a time, and use long, sweeping strokes with the blade - don't try to cut through the bond completely each time. The name of the game is let the blade do the work, not your arm. Bit like drilling; less pressure, and let the bit do the drilling. Don't be afraid to go through a WHOLE pack of blades either. Nothing worse than trying to cut out glass with a blunt blade.
Neil mentioned the wire - this will work, but only if there is clear access between the glass on both the outside AND inside. You fit the wire all the way round the outside, feed it through the bond and inside the frame, and you cut inwards. Not gonna be easy to do on your own with it out the car on a bench, and very easy to get the angles wrong, snap the wire, and either punch yourself in the chest, or knuckle-bump the inner frame, loosing your knuckles! If you don't have clear access to the bond line, forget it. You'll just chew through whatever seal there is around it, and probably catch the wire on a lug or bolt inside and it'll snap.
I'd really need to see it in person, but I'd say the knife is probably the best bet
Pics aren't really clear, but if there is room to get to the bond all the way round, from the inside, then I'd do it using one of these;
But with non-segmented blades (as they are crap and keep breaking apart when you put too much pressure on them).
Protect the glass best you can, both inside and out, as it will be easy to scratch it. I'd advise sticky back plastic (the thicker the better) on the outside, and lay it flat on a bench on a towel. That way, the plastic protects from scratches, the towel acts as a soft surface, and should the worst happen and you blow the glass up, the plastic will keep it all together, bit like window tints. On the inside I'd plastic it again, then get some card or something to go between it and your hand / knife handle.
Get a squirty bottle (with jet spray, rather than fan spray) and fill it will screen wash. Use this to squirt along the bond line where you're cutting; acts as a lubricant. Don't use silicone spray or grease, as it's a nightmare to fully clean off, and if it's not all gone, it'll make rebonding it a nightmare. Spray 4-6" at a time, and use long, sweeping strokes with the blade - don't try to cut through the bond completely each time. The name of the game is let the blade do the work, not your arm. Bit like drilling; less pressure, and let the bit do the drilling. Don't be afraid to go through a WHOLE pack of blades either. Nothing worse than trying to cut out glass with a blunt blade.
Neil mentioned the wire - this will work, but only if there is clear access between the glass on both the outside AND inside. You fit the wire all the way round the outside, feed it through the bond and inside the frame, and you cut inwards. Not gonna be easy to do on your own with it out the car on a bench, and very easy to get the angles wrong, snap the wire, and either punch yourself in the chest, or knuckle-bump the inner frame, loosing your knuckles! If you don't have clear access to the bond line, forget it. You'll just chew through whatever seal there is around it, and probably catch the wire on a lug or bolt inside and it'll snap.
I'd really need to see it in person, but I'd say the knife is probably the best bet
02-10-2013, 06:50 PM
#6
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i did mine of my escort and just used my knife like the one in the pic above. plenty of lube to help it on its way. watch out you dont slip and cut ya guts open as you cut towards you. theres not enough access to use wire without it keep snapping or causing damage to the frame
02-10-2013, 09:31 PM
#7
Helpful that cheers mate, im gunna have a go tomorrow I think!
Cheers
The 1 I removed from the car was falling to bits this is the best I could find from looking at approc 10/12 cars today
Cheers Im going to go get a few knives and have a go, good tips thank you for taking the time will cover it in gaffer tape as I've got loads kicking about so if the worst happens that should contain it..... I hope
cheers if I'm not on here tomorrow its cos I've cut meself in half lol
need to get it sorted before it has the front screen fitted as then i can ask the fitter to rebond it for a little drink
Or would tiger seal/ stickaflex be alright?
I looked into taking the original glass outta the sunroof on my saph to keep the glass all matching with the etching. I chickened out of doing it tho as I didn't want to break it. But saying that I reckon you could get the glass out using cheese/music wire and cut it out that way.
While I've never actually taken the actual bit of glass out of a sunroof frame before (typically, new sunroofs come in frames, so it's just a bolt job) I see no reason why you can't remove it, provided there's access to the bond to cut through.
Pics aren't really clear, but if there is room to get to the bond all the way round, from the inside, then I'd do it using one of these;
But with non-segmented blades (as they are crap and keep breaking apart when you put too much pressure on them).
Protect the glass best you can, both inside and out, as it will be easy to scratch it. I'd advise sticky back plastic (the thicker the better) on the outside, and lay it flat on a bench on a towel. That way, the plastic protects from scratches, the towel acts as a soft surface, and should the worst happen and you blow the glass up, the plastic will keep it all together, bit like window tints. On the inside I'd plastic it again, then get some card or something to go between it and your hand / knife handle.
Get a squirty bottle (with jet spray, rather than fan spray) and fill it will screen wash. Use this to squirt along the bond line where you're cutting; acts as a lubricant. Don't use silicone spray or grease, as it's a nightmare to fully clean off, and if it's not all gone, it'll make rebonding it a nightmare. Spray 4-6" at a time, and use long, sweeping strokes with the blade - don't try to cut through the bond completely each time. The name of the game is let the blade do the work, not your arm. Bit like drilling; less pressure, and let the bit do the drilling. Don't be afraid to go through a WHOLE pack of blades either. Nothing worse than trying to cut out glass with a blunt blade.
Neil mentioned the wire - this will work, but only if there is clear access between the glass on both the outside AND inside. You fit the wire all the way round the outside, feed it through the bond and inside the frame, and you cut inwards. Not gonna be easy to do on your own with it out the car on a bench, and very easy to get the angles wrong, snap the wire, and either punch yourself in the chest, or knuckle-bump the inner frame, loosing your knuckles! If you don't have clear access to the bond line, forget it. You'll just chew through whatever seal there is around it, and probably catch the wire on a lug or bolt inside and it'll snap.
I'd really need to see it in person, but I'd say the knife is probably the best bet
Pics aren't really clear, but if there is room to get to the bond all the way round, from the inside, then I'd do it using one of these;
But with non-segmented blades (as they are crap and keep breaking apart when you put too much pressure on them).
Protect the glass best you can, both inside and out, as it will be easy to scratch it. I'd advise sticky back plastic (the thicker the better) on the outside, and lay it flat on a bench on a towel. That way, the plastic protects from scratches, the towel acts as a soft surface, and should the worst happen and you blow the glass up, the plastic will keep it all together, bit like window tints. On the inside I'd plastic it again, then get some card or something to go between it and your hand / knife handle.
Get a squirty bottle (with jet spray, rather than fan spray) and fill it will screen wash. Use this to squirt along the bond line where you're cutting; acts as a lubricant. Don't use silicone spray or grease, as it's a nightmare to fully clean off, and if it's not all gone, it'll make rebonding it a nightmare. Spray 4-6" at a time, and use long, sweeping strokes with the blade - don't try to cut through the bond completely each time. The name of the game is let the blade do the work, not your arm. Bit like drilling; less pressure, and let the bit do the drilling. Don't be afraid to go through a WHOLE pack of blades either. Nothing worse than trying to cut out glass with a blunt blade.
Neil mentioned the wire - this will work, but only if there is clear access between the glass on both the outside AND inside. You fit the wire all the way round the outside, feed it through the bond and inside the frame, and you cut inwards. Not gonna be easy to do on your own with it out the car on a bench, and very easy to get the angles wrong, snap the wire, and either punch yourself in the chest, or knuckle-bump the inner frame, loosing your knuckles! If you don't have clear access to the bond line, forget it. You'll just chew through whatever seal there is around it, and probably catch the wire on a lug or bolt inside and it'll snap.
I'd really need to see it in person, but I'd say the knife is probably the best bet
i did mine of my escort and just used my knife like the one in the pic above. plenty of lube to help it on its way. watch out you dont slip and cut ya guts open as you cut towards you. theres not enough access to use wire without it keep snapping or causing damage to the frame
need to get it sorted before it has the front screen fitted as then i can ask the fitter to rebond it for a little drink
Or would tiger seal/ stickaflex be alright?
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02-10-2013, 10:18 PM
#8
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No it will need to be bonded properly using the special primer as well which i'm sure thrush will tell you.
What are you doing about the seal? I managed to buy the only genuine ford new one i've ever seen come up on ebay and it cost me well into three figures
What are you doing about the seal? I managed to buy the only genuine ford new one i've ever seen come up on ebay and it cost me well into three figures
03-10-2013, 10:31 AM
#12
What car is it on? If it's one with a bonded front screen and you're getting a screen fitted, slip the guy a drink and hell bond the sunroof glass back in. As said, really needs the correct primers and glue, otherwise you'll just have proba in the future. Just make sure all the surfaces are clean and decontaminated - but if he's anything like me , he'll clean them himself before primering and bonding anyway
03-10-2013, 06:39 PM
#13
What car is it on? If it's one with a bonded front screen and you're getting a screen fitted, slip the guy a drink and hell bond the sunroof glass back in. As said, really needs the correct primers and glue, otherwise you'll just have proba in the future. Just make sure all the surfaces are clean and decontaminated - but if he's anything like me , he'll clean them himself before primering and bonding anyway
Was thinking I'll ask matey when they fit the front screen as that way it should be done right!!
Had a go at cutting the bonding and gave up lol so my mate has take it to work (he works in a bodyshop) to cut out with an air cutter reckons his guy will have it out in a few mins
Saves me sweating my tits off struggling with it
03-10-2013, 07:05 PM
#14
Yeah, slip him a few quid and I'm sure he'd bond it back to the frame for you. As for the air cutter - I'm not keen on them. Typically they're oscillating cutters, and often need a fair bit of pressure to cut through. They also require a decent amount of space, and angle, so I'd be worried more about blowing the glass up - or at least scratching it. Hopefully it'll be fine though. It's hard to say what will or won't work without having it in front of me
04-10-2013, 08:30 PM
#15
Well matey got them apart but said it was a right fucker to do and blunted 3 blades, so I'm glad i got someone else to do it lol
have chopped the frame about and replaces the rot with good metal from the other frame
Should be fine with the glass refitted and a lot stronger the wanky thing i removed
have chopped the frame about and replaces the rot with good metal from the other frame
Should be fine with the glass refitted and a lot stronger the wanky thing i removed
04-10-2013, 09:31 PM
#18
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Ahh man thats a proper fucker 
East kent trim supplys are the only place I can think of that might be able to help with the seal, if i remember right its flocked on one half of it aint it?
East kent trim supplys are the only place I can think of that might be able to help with the seal, if i remember right its flocked on one half of it aint it?
04-10-2013, 09:38 PM
#19
have been looking all afternoon and my misses has been sending emails will see if shes emailed east kent, 1 company that the might be able to do it but it would need to be an order of 100 meters have asked for a price ask it might be the way to go
04-10-2013, 09:41 PM
#20
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Yeah I"m not all that happy atm yeah its flocked on the outside
have been looking all afternoon and my misses has been sending emails will see if shes emailed east kent, 1 company that the might be able to do it but it would need to be an order of 100 meters have asked for a price ask it might be the way to go
have been looking all afternoon and my misses has been sending emails will see if shes emailed east kent, 1 company that the might be able to do it but it would need to be an order of 100 meters have asked for a price ask it might be the way to go
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