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who knows about saff cosworth wiring?

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Old 19-07-2013, 01:45 PM
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ajamesc
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Default who knows about saff cosworth wiring?

Right my problem is sometimes my car looses power totally dead!
or as im driving along the radio dies then it will come back on and the ignition lights will come on like you have just turned the key! also its looses its clock memory so im guessing its a main power supply fault.
What I want to know is how dose the battery power get to the ignition system?
is there a main fuse in the fuse box that supplies the ignition switch as this wiring may be at fault or I may have a ignition switch problem.
Or I could have a switch to ignition relay or relay fault? any wiring diagrams would be helpful
Old 19-07-2013, 04:18 PM
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There are apparently fused links in the battery cables that can cause this.

My mate had the same problem in his and sorted it by apparently removing the fused links and hard wired to the battery terminal.

Last edited by Gazzonator; 19-07-2013 at 04:19 PM.
Old 19-07-2013, 04:33 PM
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As said, there are two fusiable links which are known to corrode, one supplies the fusebox, and the other the ignition I think, hardwiring them is not ideal though, as obviously then the circuit is not protected!

I suspect it's a bad connection.

There is no ignition relay.

Martin
Old 19-07-2013, 04:38 PM
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Wear do these live then as all my wiring go,s to a junction box then to an isolator then the battery! Are the fused links close to the fuse box? Any one have a pic of what they look like as I can't say I noticed them when I sorted out the wiring around the battery are they inline in the main power wire to the fuse box?

Last edited by ajamesc; 19-07-2013 at 04:40 PM.
Old 19-07-2013, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by martysmartie
As said, there are two fusiable links which are known to corrode, one supplies the fusebox, and the other the ignition I think, hardwiring them is not ideal though, as obviously then the circuit is not protected!

I suspect it's a bad connection.

There is no ignition relay.

Martin
Number 1 relay in the fuse bored is the ignition relay according to the hand book
Old 19-07-2013, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ajamesc
Number 1 relay in the fuse bored is the ignition relay according to the hand book
So it is, just checked myself.

However, this will not affect the radio and clock, therefore it's more likely to be a connection problem.

Martin
Old 19-07-2013, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by martysmartie
So it is, just checked myself.

However, this will not affect the radio and clock, therefore it's more likely to be a connection problem.

Martin
Not to sure about that to be honest if the ignition was loosening power due to that realy being at fault or the wiring bad then the clock and radio will loose power. It's as if the ignition is turning its self off and on!
Ill have a good look round it all tomorrow I'm guessing the fused link was the block all the power wires went to on the plus side of the battery that was chopped out years ago now
Old 19-07-2013, 04:58 PM
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I'd be investigating the chopped out bit you mention
Old 19-07-2013, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbosystems
I'd be investigating the chopped out bit you mention
Na that's fine mate its a all the plus side wires go into a junction box then from there to the battery ( so the same as them going to battety as they wear really ) it's been like that for years this is a new fault
Old 19-07-2013, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ajamesc
Not to sure about that to be honest if the ignition was loosening power due to that realy being at fault or the wiring bad then the clock and radio will loose power. It's as if the ignition is turning its self off and on!
Ill have a good look round it all tomorrow I'm guessing the fused link was the block all the power wires went to on the plus side of the battery that was chopped out years ago now
It won't, the relay will only be for ignition pos 2, the auxillary (pos 1) on the ignition is just a switched feed, if you remove the relay you will find the clock/radio still have power!

The clock/radio constant are on the interior light circuit.

Martin
Old 19-07-2013, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by martysmartie
It won't, the relay will only be for ignition pos 2, the auxillary (pos 1) on the ignition is just a switched feed, if you remove the relay you will find the clock/radio still have power!

The clock/radio constant are on the interior light circuit.

Martin
Right cool I really need my self a diagram lol
Think ill check over all the main wires tomorrow one thing I have noticed is the battery light is dim now as well
Old 19-07-2013, 05:18 PM
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I assume you mean when the ignition is on, re the light?

Martin
Old 19-07-2013, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by martysmartie
It won't, the relay will only be for ignition pos 2, the auxillary (pos 1) on the ignition is just a switched feed, if you remove the relay you will find the clock/radio still have power!

The clock/radio constant are on the interior light circuit.

Martin
but like I say the clock and radio going are just part of it it's like the hole ignition is switching off! Then come back on and all the dash lights come on including the abs one like when you first turn the key on!
Maybe I'm looking at a ignition switch fault
Old 19-07-2013, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ajamesc
Wear do these live then as all my wiring go,s to a junction box then to an isolator then the battery! Are the fused links close to the fuse box? Any one have a pic of what they look like as I can't say I noticed them when I sorted out the wiring around the battery are they inline in the main power wire to the fuse box?
Yes, inline near the battery.

Martin
Old 19-07-2013, 05:24 PM
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Mate's Sierra based Sebring kit car had similar problems, was ignition switch.

To prove it I put a switched wire from the permanent feed to the switched side of the switch.

Does yours have a block connector along the steering column for the switch? Check that to see if it's got hot too.
Old 19-07-2013, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by GVK.
Mate's Sierra based Sebring kit car had similar problems, was ignition switch.

To prove it I put a switched wire from the permanent feed to the switched side of the switch.

Does yours have a block connector along the steering column for the switch? Check that to see if it's got hot too.
I've not looked mate to be honest.
It's a fault that has only happened a few times now but just no it's going to catch me out some wear lol
Old 19-07-2013, 05:37 PM
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His had been an issue for some time and he'd put an alternator on it and all sorts.
Old 19-07-2013, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by martysmartie
I assume you mean when the ignition is on, re the light?

Martin
Yes ignition on
Old 19-07-2013, 06:38 PM
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I had a similar problem and it turned out that the small wire on the alternator was corroded so I cleaned it up and wired a new connector to it. all is working okay.
Old 19-07-2013, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Danny555
I had a similar problem and it turned out that the small wire on the alternator was corroded so I cleaned it up and wired a new connector to it. all is working okay.
Ill give that a check over mate the alternator loom is a bit tired to be fair and is on my to do list
Old 20-07-2013, 10:24 AM
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As above, it's the ground for the light which will be causing it to be dim, the trouble is the heat from the turbo cooks the wiring over time, or you could just have a dirty/poor connection.

In addition, this is what can cause a big discrepancy between the output vs the output at the battery (that being less than the former in the latter case)

Martin
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