who knows about saff cosworth wiring?
#1
cossie fan (unluckerly)
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Right my problem is sometimes my car looses power totally dead!
or as im driving along the radio dies then it will come back on and the ignition lights will come on like you have just turned the key! also its looses its clock memory so im guessing its a main power supply fault.
What I want to know is how dose the battery power get to the ignition system?
is there a main fuse in the fuse box that supplies the ignition switch as this wiring may be at fault or I may have a ignition switch problem.
Or I could have a switch to ignition relay or relay fault? any wiring diagrams would be helpful
or as im driving along the radio dies then it will come back on and the ignition lights will come on like you have just turned the key! also its looses its clock memory so im guessing its a main power supply fault.
What I want to know is how dose the battery power get to the ignition system?
is there a main fuse in the fuse box that supplies the ignition switch as this wiring may be at fault or I may have a ignition switch problem.
Or I could have a switch to ignition relay or relay fault? any wiring diagrams would be helpful
#3
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As said, there are two fusiable links which are known to corrode, one supplies the fusebox, and the other the ignition I think, hardwiring them is not ideal though, as obviously then the circuit is not protected!
I suspect it's a bad connection.
There is no ignition relay.
Martin
I suspect it's a bad connection.
There is no ignition relay.
Martin
#4
cossie fan (unluckerly)
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Wear do these live then as all my wiring go,s to a junction box then to an isolator then the battery! Are the fused links close to the fuse box? Any one have a pic of what they look like as I can't say I noticed them when I sorted out the wiring around the battery are they inline in the main power wire to the fuse box?
Last edited by ajamesc; 19-07-2013 at 04:40 PM.
#5
cossie fan (unluckerly)
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As said, there are two fusiable links which are known to corrode, one supplies the fusebox, and the other the ignition I think, hardwiring them is not ideal though, as obviously then the circuit is not protected!
I suspect it's a bad connection.
There is no ignition relay.
Martin
I suspect it's a bad connection.
There is no ignition relay.
Martin
#7
cossie fan (unluckerly)
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Ill have a good look round it all tomorrow I'm guessing the fused link was the block all the power wires went to on the plus side of the battery that was chopped out years ago now
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#9
cossie fan (unluckerly)
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Na that's fine mate its a all the plus side wires go into a junction box then from there to the battery ( so the same as them going to battety as they wear really ) it's been like that for years this is a new fault
#10
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Not to sure about that to be honest if the ignition was loosening power due to that realy being at fault or the wiring bad then the clock and radio will loose power. It's as if the ignition is turning its self off and on!
Ill have a good look round it all tomorrow I'm guessing the fused link was the block all the power wires went to on the plus side of the battery that was chopped out years ago now
Ill have a good look round it all tomorrow I'm guessing the fused link was the block all the power wires went to on the plus side of the battery that was chopped out years ago now
The clock/radio constant are on the interior light circuit.
Martin
#11
cossie fan (unluckerly)
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Think ill check over all the main wires tomorrow one thing I have noticed is the battery light is dim now as well
#13
cossie fan (unluckerly)
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Maybe I'm looking at a ignition switch fault
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Wear do these live then as all my wiring go,s to a junction box then to an isolator then the battery! Are the fused links close to the fuse box? Any one have a pic of what they look like as I can't say I noticed them when I sorted out the wiring around the battery are they inline in the main power wire to the fuse box?
Martin
#15
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Mate's Sierra based Sebring kit car had similar problems, was ignition switch.
To prove it I put a switched wire from the permanent feed to the switched side of the switch.
Does yours have a block connector along the steering column for the switch? Check that to see if it's got hot too.
To prove it I put a switched wire from the permanent feed to the switched side of the switch.
Does yours have a block connector along the steering column for the switch? Check that to see if it's got hot too.
#16
cossie fan (unluckerly)
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Mate's Sierra based Sebring kit car had similar problems, was ignition switch.
To prove it I put a switched wire from the permanent feed to the switched side of the switch.
Does yours have a block connector along the steering column for the switch? Check that to see if it's got hot too.
To prove it I put a switched wire from the permanent feed to the switched side of the switch.
Does yours have a block connector along the steering column for the switch? Check that to see if it's got hot too.
It's a fault that has only happened a few times now but just no it's going to catch me out some wear lol
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I had a similar problem and it turned out that the small wire on the alternator was corroded so I cleaned it up and wired a new connector to it. all is working okay.
#20
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#21
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As above, it's the ground for the light which will be causing it to be dim, the trouble is the heat from the turbo cooks the wiring over time, or you could just have a dirty/poor connection.
In addition, this is what can cause a big discrepancy between the output vs the output at the battery (that being less than the former in the latter case)
Martin
In addition, this is what can cause a big discrepancy between the output vs the output at the battery (that being less than the former in the latter case)
Martin
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