TDDi transit wont start
#1
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Glennvestite
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From: Darlington county durham
TDDi transit wont start
Right guys this is the story.
A van at work come in with a knocking noise.It sounded like diesel knock.I got the fault codes and im sure they were cam timing?? and fuel solenoid??(eve got them written down at work).So i asked one of the lads at worked who worked on fords for years,he said it was the sensor/solenoid inbetween the fuel pipes on the pump.So i took the inlet manifold and the fuel pipes to get at this sensor.The fuel solenoid valve came and it looked nothing like the one inbetween the pipes.I noticed there was a sensor at the back of the pump.I took it out and it was the same as the new one.I repaced the sensor and joined the wires together.
I rebuilt the engine back up and it wont start now.Ive put an electrical pump between the fuel filter and the fuel pipe to suck the fuel through.Im sure it must have an air lock.If you squirt some easy start down the inlet pipe the engine will run.Ive been doing this and was hoping it would help suck the fuel through.
Ive also cracked the injector pipes off to get the air out.Should the fuel squirt out??
I was thinking about taking the new sensor out and refit the old one.
Any info would help.Thanks.
A van at work come in with a knocking noise.It sounded like diesel knock.I got the fault codes and im sure they were cam timing?? and fuel solenoid??(eve got them written down at work).So i asked one of the lads at worked who worked on fords for years,he said it was the sensor/solenoid inbetween the fuel pipes on the pump.So i took the inlet manifold and the fuel pipes to get at this sensor.The fuel solenoid valve came and it looked nothing like the one inbetween the pipes.I noticed there was a sensor at the back of the pump.I took it out and it was the same as the new one.I repaced the sensor and joined the wires together.
I rebuilt the engine back up and it wont start now.Ive put an electrical pump between the fuel filter and the fuel pipe to suck the fuel through.Im sure it must have an air lock.If you squirt some easy start down the inlet pipe the engine will run.Ive been doing this and was hoping it would help suck the fuel through.
Ive also cracked the injector pipes off to get the air out.Should the fuel squirt out??
I was thinking about taking the new sensor out and refit the old one.
Any info would help.Thanks.
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#10
The annoying ginger guy
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From: Under the bonnet covered in grease
If its got common rail then yeh it should have loads of pressure otherwise it should still have pressure but not as much, I would look at the pump as the diesel knock you may be hearing is low pressure, if there isn't the required amount of pressure to crack the injectors it will knock, has it got 2 pump one low and one high or does it have the lifter pump built into the high pressure pump
#13
The annoying ginger guy
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From: Under the bonnet covered in grease
Has it bin on a code reader aswell, if yes plug it in again and go into live data and match the desired injection start (degrees) to the actual injection start to see if the pumps too advanced or retarded
#14
will no doubt be the computer on top of the pump they tend to cause diesel knock and lack of power then fail pretty soon after causing a non start, they can be repaired and are easy to take off
#17
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Glennvestite
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From: Darlington county durham
Im pissed off at the lad who told me it was the sensor on the pump inbetween the fuel pipes cause i wouldnt have this fault if he told me where the correct sensor was lol.
#21
So what have you replaced Glenn? The solenoid at the bottom of the pump, not the one inbetween the injector pipes? If so, did you make sure that the old rubber o ring that sits at the end of the solenoid came out before you fitted the new one?
#23
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Glennvestite
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From: Darlington county durham
I was thinking about taking the sensor back out and checking the seal.
#25
and make sure if you did change that solenoid glenn that it is as tight as youy can get it .i changed mine a few months ago and it wouldnt start with a tow or anything .gave that big retainging nut a tap with a long screwdriver and hammer and away it went with a bare turn of the key .
#26
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Glennvestite
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From: Darlington county durham
and make sure if you did change that solenoid glenn that it is as tight as youy can get it .i changed mine a few months ago and it wouldnt start with a tow or anything .gave that big retainging nut a tap with a long screwdriver and hammer and away it went with a bare turn of the key .
#28
It is quite common for the o ring to stay in there Glenn, I'd take it off just to rule it out first personally
#31
It will need that solenoid at the bottom of the pump then mate, there was a tsb about it years ago, it's the pump timing solenoid. If that o ring isn't seated right it could have air ingress which will prevent it from starting.
#33
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Glennvestite
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From: Darlington county durham
UPDATED.
Right ive removed the sensor and the o ring was still inside.Ive check to see if the electrical crips have made a good connection cause i cut the wires one at a time and joined them with the crips provided.
Ive got a 12volt feed at both the sensors wires.
Im gonna build it back up again and hope for the best.
Right ive removed the sensor and the o ring was still inside.Ive check to see if the electrical crips have made a good connection cause i cut the wires one at a time and joined them with the crips provided.
Ive got a 12volt feed at both the sensors wires.
Im gonna build it back up again and hope for the best.