costina

iTrader: (1)

Good man the only way to go

C'mon lads someone must have 1 grey injector kicking about if jimbo can't sort ya..

COCHYN

I'd be inclined to not just put a random 403 into the bunch, they should be flow tested and equal before putting in. For the sake of a few quid to clean and match them, it's damn site cheaper than a new engine!

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

I'm on to it

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Although you have stated your reasoning behind your injector choice, have you considered Siemens injectors?

They are arguably better, and although your 'old school' it will probably pay as in better mpg/drivability, grey injectors were never popular,you will need a remap though.

Seems easier to me than trying to hunt for an injector than isn't made anymore, plus as said you really want them cleaned and checked opposed to fitting an injector than you don't know the condition of, for the price and effort of that you could probably have got a set of new injectors?

Martin

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

Deffo sticking with Greys and if cost was no issue new are still available. Been quoted a great price for cleaning / flow testing by Jimbo.

I am not going to swap out a conversion thats done 0 miles lol. I have an injector on the way too - will be up and running by next weekend I hope.

I know what you are saying about siemens - I once had GT35 / with 83lb Siemens. Just don't fancy it. I will trust MSD and his fuel maps to control it all lol.

One other point to mention is that it was a dedicated track car but considering ptting it back on the road hence the CL spec.

COCHYN

I second old school technology, it might just be sticking with the norm. But I love the way my Light Blues perform on my engine, the fuel consumption is awesome and it's a very responsive car. No issues with Siemense injectors or anything new that comes on the market.

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

Well, I have my duff 403 replaced now but I'm not sure about the running at all. If this is meant to plug and play then not too impressed at the moment but will hold out on judgement until I have the injectors cleand and flow tested. There may be something wrong I have overlooked.

On the stage 3 set up it ran fine. Now it tries to stall and recovers. The amal valve is firing as it don't know if its on foot or horse back trying to keep the engine running. I get plumes of black somke when its poorly running / cycling. When I lightly throttle it responds differently each time. Sometimes it picks up ok other times it just misses.

It is running on all 4 now for definate but as soon as I try to blat the throttle it misses and chucks black smoke out.

I have set the fueling at 3.5 bar and I followed the instructions for the ecu 'reset'. I have not had it on a co meter but I know it will be badly out as you can taste the fuel in the fumes.

I am guessing plug gaps now - not sure what I set them too but I think they should be 0.6 - pissing down so came in.

Anything else to check other than the plugs as I didn't expect this lol. I have seen a 420bhp YB running greys at tickover with a 20p on the rocker cover - I'm not there yet ha ha.

I am loading a vid on Photobucket so ya can see the poop state its in.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Sounds as if something else is wrong, if the Amal is clicking, have you changed anything else, not knocked a hose off etc?

There is no reset procedure on the ECU'S, barring the P8.

Also you mention it run ok on the stage 3 setup? You haven't just changed the injectors have you?

Martin

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

Not just changed injectors no - got a brand new MSD 380 chip just fitted. Its got all the other goodies required. The only thing I needed to change was the chip and injectors tho as everything else already fitted.

Will give it a good going over when the weather is better - can't see anything out there and I'll get soaked lol

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

http://s1150.photobucket.com/albums/...=VIDEO0056.mp4


Here is the vid - a bit long but ya get the drift. Its taken on my phone so the mic distorts somewhat.

I know the car is in a state - 6 years of zero use and sat on my drive - just recommissioning it

B13 JUS

iTrader: (24)

Can you fit old chip and injectors to see if it runs ok again?

DAN-Saff

I sounds like you have an air leak and I also noticed no lambda sensor connected I don't think stu's chips like that.

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

I hope it does as its running CL. Its in the turbo ex housing not the down pipe

Might be an air leak though - not ruling anything out. Just views on what similar things peole have had.

COCHYN

If it's pretty much exactly the same as it was on the Stage 3 and that you've not changed anything apart from the obvious bits to up the power, I have to ask is the chip correct? Did you give them the exact specs of your engine before MSD uploaded the details to the chip?

escoskmv

Try setting base idle???

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

Gave exact spec - tbh, I can't see it being the chip. These guys do this for a living and are quite good at it now lol. I do believe I have missed something - will see if I can get out there tomoz.

Base idle would be mint if it would hold steady long enough to set - that said, it might be the ISCV dicking about..............

opposite lock

iTrader: (3)

Hard to say but it sounds like an big airleak in the vid.

costina

iTrader: (1)

you really need to get injectors cleaned and flow tested. you said its been off road for a while is it fresh fuel? super can go off.

As its not been used for a while i would have ran it about on the old set up and if all was well after a few miles then upgraded.

but that has similar symtoms as a failed ect sensor check u hav'nt pulled the plug off by accident

Paul

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

ECT sounds a good look too - had one fail years ago and you are right, it gave similar symptoms

costina

iTrader: (1)

good luck fella

drsrst2zvh

Famous last words regarding the chip. If it were mine I'd plug the old injectors and chip in and see how it runs? Then go from there flow test the injectors jimbo done my greys next day turn around cheap too. Then I'd get a different/better chip/map from elsewhere just my opinion obviously!

BRAMMER

iTrader: (23)

Thats not a mapping problem i'd put good money on it, everyone always says the map but how many maps have ever been the issue? - i've had my ecu at MSD twice in 3 conversions and both times the map is perfect and the problem stems from other mechanics once was the FPR diaphragm had failed and the other was one of the ignition amps if i remember right.

Get everything cleaned, new plugs if not and regap, check every hose is on and tight, zip tie vacuum hoses, run new fuel through and maybe swap the filter, inspect the iscv and maybe adjust the idle screw on the throttle - sounds more like it needs a service.

Have the spray nozzles been cut on the injectors yet as i know mine did?

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

As said, I am recomissioning the car - just had full service including cam belt and fuel filter - new fuel too. It had been running ok on the greens etc.

I cant seem to recall any hoses off etc as new turbo fitted too. Will be checking the ISCV, ECT & ECU temp sender as it might be getting shonky readings from that also.

I dont believe its the chip / map. Could well be air leak or plug gaps (the missfiring on demand).

Injector pintles are 7mm

Such fun

opposite lock

iTrader: (3)

Are the grey injector seals in good order?

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

Got the little bastard!!!!!!!!!

I was having a good sort through systematically. I started with hoses (vac / boost etc) then all connections / connectors, then did the plugs (sooted up obviously) and gapped em to 0.6 from 0.7. I then fired it up to start to listen for air leaks etc and was prepared to start spraying wd40 about to see if there was any change.

It was running (better than yesterday) but don't know why. All ok untill slight demand - deffo an air leak. Went to operate the throttle and it started cycling when I was right there and BINGO......... dump valve. Whipped the top off and here is what you see...........

http://i1150.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMAG0338.jpg

http://i1150.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMAG0339.jpg

http://i1150.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMAG0340.jpg

It did run with the stage 3 set up but that was only really to get it going and to make sure all was ok oil, fuel and cam belt wise - didn't really do too much else - never drove it etc.

Fitted the 380bhp kit and so I'm like a bloke with 2 cocks and want to rev it etc - dump valve says no. Not sure if it was perished but whole until great demand was placed on it or it was as seen in pics? Don't care - its simple and cheap to fix.

Just ordered a kevlar reinforced jobbie - will keep you posted.

Thanks to all with their general interest and all who put forward suggestions. Between us we knew what was wrong, it was just pin pointing it - it was a massive air leak.

DAN-Saff

Sweet it did sound like an air leak from the vid

Smit

iTrader: (5)

'Ditch the Dump'

I like that lol

Glad you sorted it

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

Well, still the same - ah well, back to square 1. Thought the DV was the issue but alas no

opposite lock

iTrader: (3)

How much 'new' fuel did you put in ?

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

25L - dry tank

DAN-Saff

What did you do about the dry injector?

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

Taking them out today and going to Jimbo. Gonna try another ECU before I do though. To me it seems that it is too rich tbh with the black smoke, sooted plugs and misfire. It is overfueling I think rather than too much air.

Would be nice to know why it cycles like it does though.

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

Well,

some progress made.......... It now runs like a watch on tickover After sorting the DV today I have just reset the base idle as it would not run fully hot with the ISCV disconnected. That sorted it runs like it should with no cycling or fluctuation even after revving - sweet

However........ I do have a problem still. To enable the engine to run properly I had to still find the misfire that was cusing it to run all over the place (had to sort this 1st to set base idle).

I knew injectors were fine and so proceded to remove plug leads 1 by 1. The situation I'm in now is that if I disconnect plug lead 2 & 4 and have them resting in the holes of the cam cover it runs mint. If I actually connect them I get misfires. This is real odd. Is there something so wrong that it needs so much resistance? Is this the leads as they work e.g. carry spark but not when connected lol. Is this the phase sensor out on one side? Had the cap off and all looks ok (I know ya can't see inside a sensor).

Why does my engine run perfectly but with 2 plug leads only resting in the holes?

DAN-Saff

My petrol lawn mower does the same thing - wont run with lead plugged on the plug but will if its near it....very odd

Fast Guy

Could it be the plug gaps are too small? With the plug lead off it has to jump a gap to get to the plug which is bigger than the plug gap itself?

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

Well, gapped them to 0.6 which is recomended.

KSA-Cossie

iTrader: (4)

What plugs ?

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

Ford 071's mate - 0 miles cleaned and gapped.

William MK2 Cosworth

worth a look, when you got the fuel rail off maybe the plug leads got pulled or something... try changing the leads around

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

Had cap off - looks perfect as does the rotor arm. The leads at both ends look spanking new (only 3k covered on new 909's). Leads are correct as it runs like a watch - just with the leads not on the plugs on 2 & 4.

Just wondering if anyone else has had this and what it was?