engine builders/people in the know, update
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engine builders/people in the know, update
Right as some will know I've just had some work done to the focus rs engine.
I've had new rings fitted as i had a problem with number 4, also had 8 new exhaust valves and head fully stripped checked and re built, had quite a few new shims fitted also.
Now my problem is the car starts on 3 cylinders still but after about 25 seconds it starts to pick up and fire on all 4 but you can still tell its not right,its now number 1 that is missing. I've done a cold comp check last night and number 1 is only 40psi and other 3 are all 160psi.
Any engine builders got any idea please as im Fooking sick now.
I've had new rings fitted as i had a problem with number 4, also had 8 new exhaust valves and head fully stripped checked and re built, had quite a few new shims fitted also.
Now my problem is the car starts on 3 cylinders still but after about 25 seconds it starts to pick up and fire on all 4 but you can still tell its not right,its now number 1 that is missing. I've done a cold comp check last night and number 1 is only 40psi and other 3 are all 160psi.
Any engine builders got any idea please as im Fooking sick now.
Last edited by Dicko&Vacant; 27-04-2012 at 06:56 PM. Reason: title
#5
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It may simply be a badly seating valve or ring, but at the end of the day, its been built wrong somewheer down the line and in an ideal world needs to be fixed right away.
A leakdown test performed by a professional who understands what he is doing will pinpont it to valves / rings or headgasket, then you can move forward in an educated position to minimise further expense / risk / heartache.
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I presume so mate, i don't think im unlucky enough to get someone that bad that would fit valves that didn't fit the guides lol
head was done by amac engineering in northallerton
head was done by amac engineering in northallerton
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Lee, you have the worst luck with cars mate starting to really feel for you!
Leackage test is definately the way forward, note that you will need a compressor for this test and as Stu sais, somebody that knows what their doing and what to check for when doing so.
Or, we could just do a swap and you can come and pick up my S1 and i'll take the focus off your hands
Leackage test is definately the way forward, note that you will need a compressor for this test and as Stu sais, somebody that knows what their doing and what to check for when doing so.
Or, we could just do a swap and you can come and pick up my S1 and i'll take the focus off your hands
#19
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broken ring, bent valve or no clearance probably. hard to say without seeing it. why were the valves replaced? what were clearances set to? were the seats machined when the other work was done? did someone mangle one valve into another when timing up? could be one of many things
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well ive just had the rocker cover off and checked all the shim clearances, and with the first 2 loabs pointing up on the inlet cam i cant get a single feeler gauge in????
so is this likely to be my problem?
this is the the gauge size
so is this likely to be my problem?
this is the the gauge size
#28
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mate, you seriously seem to have no fucking idea when it comes to mechanics so im very surprised that you bought that car in the first place, especially as you have had soo many issues with it.
my advice would be to stop pissing money up the wall and break it, get as much out of its as you can. then buy something unmodified and reliable
just my tuppence worth
my advice would be to stop pissing money up the wall and break it, get as much out of its as you can. then buy something unmodified and reliable
just my tuppence worth
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And why dont i have any idea? did i do the engine? did i do the head and did i do the shims? ERM no i fucking didnt, i removed the engine and re fitted it and got it running but that must be a miricle as im clueless eh?
Think you will find the only bits that dont actually work properly at the moment is what ive paid experts/tuners to do, so in your opinion do none of them have a fucking idea when doing there job.
Think you will find the only bits that dont actually work properly at the moment is what ive paid experts/tuners to do, so in your opinion do none of them have a fucking idea when doing there job.
Last edited by Dicko&Vacant; 27-04-2012 at 07:42 PM.
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mate, you seriously seem to have no fucking idea when it comes to mechanics so im very surprised that you bought that car in the first place, especially as you have had soo many issues with it.
my advice would be to stop pissing money up the wall and break it, get as much out of its as you can. then buy something unmodified and reliable
just my tuppence worth
my advice would be to stop pissing money up the wall and break it, get as much out of its as you can. then buy something unmodified and reliable
just my tuppence worth
Thats a bit harsh don't you think? And a Focus RS / zetec turbo are pretty reliable, in fact hardly any go wrong, they are pretty bullet proof really.
#34
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wasnt ment as a dig, but every week there is a post about some reasonably simple things that a little research could answer.
i would only buy car in a high state of tune if i was capable of looking after it myself, or have the cash to pay someone else to look after it properly.
the car hasnt ran right since dicko bought it
i would only buy car in a high state of tune if i was capable of looking after it myself, or have the cash to pay someone else to look after it properly.
the car hasnt ran right since dicko bought it
#38
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#39
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Yep, I got confused after reading J1mbo's post
Can't see specific RS clearances but Ford state
For black top Zetec..
Confusing mixing metric and imperial
Can't see specific RS clearances but Ford state
Permissible valve clearance: Inlet (0,11 - 0,18 mm)
Permissible valve clearance: Exhaust (0,27 - 0,34 mm)
Permissible valve clearance: Exhaust (0,27 - 0,34 mm)
Confusing mixing metric and imperial
Last edited by GVK.; 27-04-2012 at 08:36 PM.