Crank position sensor spacing
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,777
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From: milton keynes
Hi peeps
Quick question.
I have a s2 rst I've just fitted omex too.
The cps runs off a toothed trigger wheel on the fan belt pulley.
It's running ok ish , would the distance between the trigger wheel and the sensor affect running ?
Or would it simply run or not run ?
Cheers guys
Quick question.
I have a s2 rst I've just fitted omex too.
The cps runs off a toothed trigger wheel on the fan belt pulley.
It's running ok ish , would the distance between the trigger wheel and the sensor affect running ?
Or would it simply run or not run ?
Cheers guys
The air gap is very important. But different ecu's will have different voltage thresholds for recognising a trigger.
So too close or too far could cause issues. As will wiring polarity.
Is there any diagnostic ability with the Omex ?
So too close or too far could cause issues. As will wiring polarity.
Is there any diagnostic ability with the Omex ?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 1
From: milton keynes
Thanks Steve
I have no idea about diagnostics.
When I removed it from a friends rst I think it was almost touching the trigger wheel. I put a small washer between the sensor and bracket to bring it out a tiny bit more cos it looked too close.
Is there a general setting for the gap here ? Should it be set with a feeler gauge ?
I have no idea about diagnostics.
When I removed it from a friends rst I think it was almost touching the trigger wheel. I put a small washer between the sensor and bracket to bring it out a tiny bit more cos it looked too close.
Is there a general setting for the gap here ? Should it be set with a feeler gauge ?
Thanks Steve
I have no idea about diagnostics.
When I removed it from a friends rst I think it was almost touching the trigger wheel. I put a small washer between the sensor and bracket to bring it out a tiny bit more cos it looked too close.
Is there a general setting for the gap here ? Should it be set with a feeler gauge ?
I have no idea about diagnostics.
When I removed it from a friends rst I think it was almost touching the trigger wheel. I put a small washer between the sensor and bracket to bring it out a tiny bit more cos it looked too close.
Is there a general setting for the gap here ? Should it be set with a feeler gauge ?
Too close and the gaps may not be seen....and too far away and again nothing will be seen
Aim for around 0.5-1mm, although that also depends on the diameter of the wheel and tooth spacing. On a small wheel 1mm might be too much.
If its spaced wrong the main thing you will notice (without being able to data log) is it wont start very well as at low RPM is where the signal is weakest.
Ideally you need to be able to see if the ECU is seeing the teeth properly or not, on something like Autronic SM4 for example, you can datalog it and see every single tooth to see if its working.
Ideally you need to be able to see if the ECU is seeing the teeth properly or not, on something like Autronic SM4 for example, you can datalog it and see every single tooth to see if its working.
Every ecu is different as Ive said. No idea what Omex is like
Too close and the gaps may not be seen....and too far away and again nothing will be seen
Aim for around 0.5-1mm, although that also depends on the diameter of the wheel and tooth spacing. On a small wheel 1mm might be too much.
Too close and the gaps may not be seen....and too far away and again nothing will be seen
Aim for around 0.5-1mm, although that also depends on the diameter of the wheel and tooth spacing. On a small wheel 1mm might be too much.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,777
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From: milton keynes
I'm not stupid mate I can read so please don't be patronising.
I'm asking what problems I will have if the spacing is wrong.
You say the gaps may not be seen etc , but as a result of that , will it not fire ? Run lumpy ? Cut out ?
That's what I'm trying to find out
I'm asking what problems I will have if the spacing is wrong.
You say the gaps may not be seen etc , but as a result of that , will it not fire ? Run lumpy ? Cut out ?
That's what I'm trying to find out
It's pretty simple.
If the teeth cannot be read correctly for whatever reason, the engine isnt going to run ! Or at best, it could run very badly or perhaps worse, run in such a way it could be destructive to the engine
In it's simplest form....do you have a spark ? Are you getting an rpm reading ? Are the injectors being triggered ?
What do the Omex instructions state about trigger requirements ?
If the teeth cannot be read correctly for whatever reason, the engine isnt going to run ! Or at best, it could run very badly or perhaps worse, run in such a way it could be destructive to the engine
In it's simplest form....do you have a spark ? Are you getting an rpm reading ? Are the injectors being triggered ?
What do the Omex instructions state about trigger requirements ?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 1
From: milton keynes
I don't have any instructions or anything.
The only prob I seem to be having is car won't start when hot and idle is fluctuating alot.
Seems to drive ok but when Ron drops to tick over I have to blip the pedal to keep it going cos if I let the Rpm drop to tickOver by itself it will stall
The only prob I seem to be having is car won't start when hot and idle is fluctuating alot.
Seems to drive ok but when Ron drops to tick over I have to blip the pedal to keep it going cos if I let the Rpm drop to tickOver by itself it will stall
Hi peeps
Quick question.
I have a s2 rst I've just fitted omex too.
The cps runs off a toothed trigger wheel on the fan belt pulley.
It's running ok ish , would the distance between the trigger wheel and the sensor affect running ?
Or would it simply run or not run ?
Cheers guys
Quick question.
I have a s2 rst I've just fitted omex too.
The cps runs off a toothed trigger wheel on the fan belt pulley.
It's running ok ish , would the distance between the trigger wheel and the sensor affect running ?
Or would it simply run or not run ?
Cheers guys
I don't have any instructions or anything.
The only prob I seem to be having is car won't start when hot and idle is fluctuating alot.
Seems to drive ok but when Ron drops to tick over I have to blip the pedal to keep it going cos if I let the Rpm drop to tickOver by itself it will stall
The only prob I seem to be having is car won't start when hot and idle is fluctuating alot.
Seems to drive ok but when Ron drops to tick over I have to blip the pedal to keep it going cos if I let the Rpm drop to tickOver by itself it will stall
So is this a new install that has never ran, or one that previously did run, you've done something and now it wont run ?
I'm assuming you have no means of communicating with the ecu either ? and it would seem obvious from your posts, that the base setup has never been carried out, and then mapped for your engine ?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 1
From: milton keynes
I removed the engine and management from my friends rst which he was breaking. It was all running , mapped etc etc.
I simply transplanted the whole lot into mine.
I simply transplanted the whole lot into mine.
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