Saph cos tracking figures for comp struts
29-07-2011, 10:48 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Saph cos tracking figures for comp struts
Does anyone know what I should be setting the track to for high speed stability on a 2wd saph that has compression struts fitted, I've got the castor set for better turn in just want to track it now for high speed runs any advise appreciated??
30-07-2011, 07:24 AM
#2
Do you realy know why compression struts are fitted and to what type of car ?
I get the feeling people are fitting items like this to road cars without any understanding what there ment for ( no offence )
30-07-2011, 01:10 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
im fully aware that i shouldnt be running comp struts however i bent my arb quite badly and couldnt get one quick so seen as though compbrake are less than 5 miles from my work i picked up a set , they have been on a few years now but im having a run down south and wanted the car to feel a little more stable at high speed, obviously i dont suffer from bush deflection as there arent any any more so hence the reason for the question, never mind,
paul if your going nat day if you have a front arb would you take it with you?
paul if your going nat day if you have a front arb would you take it with you?
30-07-2011, 04:28 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
For high speed runs I ran a different tracking setting for bush deflection but with compression struts I won't get that so was wondering what worked for other people? I run 3 degree of castor and it turns in amazing!
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30-07-2011, 05:11 PM
#8
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High speed runs and compression struts is somthing you would normaly not hear in the same sentance
Do you realy know why compression struts are fitted and to what type of car ?
I get the feeling people are fitting items like this to road cars without any understanding what there ment for ( no offence )
Do you realy know why compression struts are fitted and to what type of car ?
I get the feeling people are fitting items like this to road cars without any understanding what there ment for ( no offence )
cheers Jas
30-07-2011, 05:39 PM
#9
Jas
To fit c/struts means removal of the ARB , why would you want to reduce the stability of your car soooo much , and even more so at high speeds
Unless richard and yourself are running a Group A ARB along with your c/s system then ,,IMO,, your mad
why remove the ARB ?
Does anyone understand what the correct aplication for C/ stuts actually is ?
Last edited by Mr RS500; 30-07-2011 at 05:56 PM.
30-07-2011, 09:12 PM
#10
Jas
To fit c/struts means removal of the ARB , why would you want to reduce the stability of your car soooo much , and even more so at high speeds
Unless richard and yourself are running a Group A ARB along with your c/s system then ,,IMO,, your mad
why remove the ARB ?
Does anyone understand what the correct aplication for C/ stuts actually is ?
To fit c/struts means removal of the ARB , why would you want to reduce the stability of your car soooo much , and even more so at high speeds
Unless richard and yourself are running a Group A ARB along with your c/s system then ,,IMO,, your mad
why remove the ARB ?
Does anyone understand what the correct aplication for C/ stuts actually is ?
unless there is a differential between the two connected struts the ARB doesn nothing whatsoever other than location.
31-07-2011, 07:26 AM
#11
im thinking your a bit deluded on this Paul, why would anything in a straight line relate to an anti roll bar ? they do nothing when static tbh other than the slightest of preload across the horizontal plane.
unless there is a differential between the two connected struts the ARB doesn nothing whatsoever other than location.
unless there is a differential between the two connected struts the ARB doesn nothing whatsoever other than location.
for somone who is building a rally car you have some very strange ideas about what is safe etc
would you do a high speed run in a car with no ARB
I 100% would not
your trying to tell me that a car with no ARB is as stable at high speed as one with
Im just glad i wont be driving in any of your cars if you honestly think there will be no problems at high speed without a ARB
I do uinderstand that a high speed run is in a straight line but you have to allow for movment as no road is 100% flat and straight and if a correction had to be made due to a bump in the road etc this is when it would worry me
Mark , Im sure you know when and why C/S are used on a rally car , and if you know the answer then you will know there only used in specific conditions , unless used along side an ARB
My worry isnt doing the run if everything goes perfect , My worry is if a sudden change of direction had to take place , ie , blow out , big bump etc , then the stability would be a massive issue at high speed,
also braking at very high speeds can be an issue without an ARB unless you are sure the car will stop in a 100% straight line ( i dont know any car that will do this 100% ) and even if possible its not rocket science to know a ARB keeps stability under heavy braking
Last edited by Mr RS500; 31-07-2011 at 07:58 AM.
31-07-2011, 10:01 AM
#12
Mark
for somone who is building a rally car you have some very strange ideas about what is safe etc
would you do a high speed run in a car with no ARB
I 100% would not
your trying to tell me that a car with no ARB is as stable at high speed as one with
Im just glad i wont be driving in any of your cars if you honestly think there will be no problems at high speed without a ARB
I do uinderstand that a high speed run is in a straight line but you have to allow for movment as no road is 100% flat and straight and if a correction had to be made due to a bump in the road etc this is when it would worry me
Mark , Im sure you know when and why C/S are used on a rally car , and if you know the answer then you will know there only used in specific conditions , unless used along side an ARB
My worry isnt doing the run if everything goes perfect , My worry is if a sudden change of direction had to take place , ie , blow out , big bump etc , then the stability would be a massive issue at high speed,
also braking at very high speeds can be an issue without an ARB unless you are sure the car will stop in a 100% straight line ( i dont know any car that will do this 100% ) and even if possible its not rocket science to know a ARB keeps stability under heavy braking
for somone who is building a rally car you have some very strange ideas about what is safe etc
would you do a high speed run in a car with no ARB
I 100% would not
your trying to tell me that a car with no ARB is as stable at high speed as one with
Im just glad i wont be driving in any of your cars if you honestly think there will be no problems at high speed without a ARB
I do uinderstand that a high speed run is in a straight line but you have to allow for movment as no road is 100% flat and straight and if a correction had to be made due to a bump in the road etc this is when it would worry me
Mark , Im sure you know when and why C/S are used on a rally car , and if you know the answer then you will know there only used in specific conditions , unless used along side an ARB
My worry isnt doing the run if everything goes perfect , My worry is if a sudden change of direction had to take place , ie , blow out , big bump etc , then the stability would be a massive issue at high speed,
also braking at very high speeds can be an issue without an ARB unless you are sure the car will stop in a 100% straight line ( i dont know any car that will do this 100% ) and even if possible its not rocket science to know a ARB keeps stability under heavy braking
you do need to be reading it. how many top speed vehicles do you deal with that runs antiroll bars ?
even under braking the roll bar still does nothing, the suspension deflection would have to be massive (relevant terms to total suspension travel) for the roll bar to make any differance to keeping the pair of suspension units as flat to horizontal plane as possible.
In fact you would be so much more stable under braking with compression struts than an antiroll bar.
My usage of a car is totally differant to yours, you build older replica cars that look superb, older style being what they are, things have moved on, my car would be very differant in use to yours at high speed, mine on the next corner may well go to full compression then to full droop, yours will never see the extremes of travel my sport would.
I will post back later iir with the link, very interesting reading tbh.
oh and P.S - I NEVER compromise safety.
31-07-2011, 10:34 AM
#13
Paul, im going to find you a link to a book you need to be reading about suspension geometry.
you do need to be reading it. how many top speed vehicles do you deal with that runs antiroll bars ?
even under braking the roll bar still does nothing, the suspension deflection would have to be massive (relevant terms to total suspension travel) for the roll bar to make any differance to keeping the pair of suspension units as flat to horizontal plane as possible.
In fact you would be so much more stable under braking with compression struts than an antiroll bar.
My usage of a car is totally differant to yours, you build older replica cars that look superb, older style being what they are, things have moved on, my car would be very differant in use to yours at high speed, mine on the next corner may well go to full compression then to full droop, yours will never see the extremes of travel my sport would.
I will post back later iir with the link, very interesting reading tbh.
oh and P.S - I NEVER compromise safety.
you do need to be reading it. how many top speed vehicles do you deal with that runs antiroll bars ?
even under braking the roll bar still does nothing, the suspension deflection would have to be massive (relevant terms to total suspension travel) for the roll bar to make any differance to keeping the pair of suspension units as flat to horizontal plane as possible.
In fact you would be so much more stable under braking with compression struts than an antiroll bar.
My usage of a car is totally differant to yours, you build older replica cars that look superb, older style being what they are, things have moved on, my car would be very differant in use to yours at high speed, mine on the next corner may well go to full compression then to full droop, yours will never see the extremes of travel my sport would.
I will post back later iir with the link, very interesting reading tbh.
oh and P.S - I NEVER compromise safety.
I have had many "up to date " cars
I have run many escort cosworths with and without C/S and for road / track use i would never use them again unless with an ARB
Your books can say what they like i have tried both and ,,IMO,, c/s without the extra ARB is a no no unless used for the aplication they were intended
And i will NEVER change my ,
As said i run c/s on my 440bhp escoss and it was horrific on the road and after changing back to a ARB i couldnt believe how much better it was
31-07-2011, 11:05 AM
#14
My race car runs an esc cos arb I wouldn't know if c s would improve things or not other than being solidly mounted so stopping the wheels moving back under braking.
Fitting c s is not on the cards for me until someone can prove to me that it would improve the car.
Steve
Fitting c s is not on the cards for me until someone can prove to me that it would improve the car.
Steve
31-07-2011, 11:16 AM
#15
My race car runs an esc cos arb I wouldn't know if c s would improve things or not other than being solidly mounted so stopping the wheels moving back under braking.
Fitting c s is not on the cards for me until someone can prove to me that it would improve the car.
Steve
Fitting c s is not on the cards for me until someone can prove to me that it would improve the car.
Steve
if you run a race car then you should try it, I guarantee you would not change to just a roll bar again.
Paul, you must have had something really badly wrong with the setup of your car if it gave you that type of bitter taste, I ran one of my rally cars for years with no roll bar at all and the turn in was never compromised, in fact it was better than any other car ive driven for turn in, with no compromise at full speed.
31-07-2011, 11:42 AM
#17
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Markk, could you put the link to the book up as i am sure it would benefit a lot of people on the site, not least me as i am thinking of going compression struts on my escos.
31-07-2011, 12:18 PM
#18
from personal experience:
when i ran my estate using the 29.3mm granada 24v 2wd arb the straight line stability was horrendous BUT the turn in was absolutely stunning, on par with a much smaller car like a fiesta
i didn't get much use out of the comp struts as i'd only done about 50 miles on them with the adjustable tca's and hadn't had them set up before the engine expired so i can't comment
what i can tell you though is that the 2wd and 4wd cars have different shaped arb's, anyone who's got one of each will be able to see where they are slightly different along their bends as they go into the tca's
i would assume that with more adjustability in the shape of top mounts and stuff you'd be able to find the perfect place for either cornering or straight line stuff, but possibly not both
when i ran my estate using the 29.3mm granada 24v 2wd arb the straight line stability was horrendous BUT the turn in was absolutely stunning, on par with a much smaller car like a fiesta
i didn't get much use out of the comp struts as i'd only done about 50 miles on them with the adjustable tca's and hadn't had them set up before the engine expired so i can't comment
what i can tell you though is that the 2wd and 4wd cars have different shaped arb's, anyone who's got one of each will be able to see where they are slightly different along their bends as they go into the tca's
i would assume that with more adjustability in the shape of top mounts and stuff you'd be able to find the perfect place for either cornering or straight line stuff, but possibly not both
31-07-2011, 02:14 PM
#19
if you run a race car then you should try it, I guarantee you would not change to just a roll bar again.
Paul, you must have had something really badly wrong with the setup of your car if it gave you that type of bitter taste, I ran one of my rally cars for years with no roll bar at all and the turn in was never compromised, in fact it was better than any other car ive driven for turn in, with no compromise at full speed.
Paul, you must have had something really badly wrong with the setup of your car if it gave you that type of bitter taste, I ran one of my rally cars for years with no roll bar at all and the turn in was never compromised, in fact it was better than any other car ive driven for turn in, with no compromise at full speed.
Mark
My escoss was set up correctly ,
your talking Rally car tho , NOT road / track car
do you honestly know what the correct aplication for c/s is ?
some how i think you dont
c/s will 100% give you better turn in , im not doubting that at all as you can alter caster and with ajustable TCA"s you can give more neg camber also making the car turn in better , BUT the car will transfer the weight to the front under heavy braking and have bad roll ( unless running stupidy hard sus that isnt again correct for a road / track car )
Rally cars and road / track cars are nothing like each other and this is my point , people are fitting rally car equipment to road cars and they should think twice and find out exactly what the parts they are fitting are intended for
Dave
Im running a 1600 twin cam ARB with ajustable TCA"s on the mk2
Last edited by Mr RS500; 31-07-2011 at 02:44 PM.
31-07-2011, 02:21 PM
#20
My race car runs an esc cos arb I wouldn't know if c s would improve things or not other than being solidly mounted so stopping the wheels moving back under braking.
Fitting c s is not on the cards for me until someone can prove to me that it would improve the car.
Steve
Fitting c s is not on the cards for me until someone can prove to me that it would improve the car.
Steve
Please find out what the correct use of c/s is before you even try
31-07-2011, 02:39 PM
#22
I also think we have forgotten what the OP thread was asking , its use of C/S for straight line high speed runs , not turning in on a rally car
anyway , i can see this turning into the usuall PF thread that will just go round and round in circles so i will leave you c/s users to it
lol
Last edited by Mr RS500; 31-07-2011 at 02:41 PM.
31-07-2011, 03:21 PM
#23
31-07-2011, 05:50 PM
#25
it certainly wasnt the best way by any means.
Of course I know why I/we use compression strut, but please do not quote me from th eold works escort (mk1/2) books about forest/tar settings as it really doesnt apply in todays world of suspension design.
and never in a month of Sundays will the arb do anything for you braking in a straight line, as both wheels compress(weight transfered to the braked axle) then the roll bar will see no differential on either side, hence both wheels will go up together, there will be no torsional twist (this is how an ARB works) on the bar whatsoever.
the relevance between rally/race/road has no bearing on what we are discussing here, you are saying that comp struts are no good for the road/track - everyone who has used them disagrees.
your car cannot have been setup properly if it didnt work (to make it as bad as you say ! )
31-07-2011, 05:59 PM
#26
Paul you are probably better off not comenting, as to be honest its not doing you any good , have a look at every car that isnt fitted with the design of suspension that the sierra/escort uses, they all have fore and aft wheel location i.e compression located wishbones/arms etc, simply put, using the arb to locate the wheels castor position is the cheapest way to mass produce (or was in the 80's etc) hence why it was used.
it certainly wasnt the best way by any means.
Of course I know why I/we use compression strut, but please do not quote me from th eold works escort (mk1/2) books about forest/tar settings as it really doesnt apply in todays world of suspension design.
and never in a month of Sundays will the arb do anything for you braking in a straight line, as both wheels compress(weight transfered to the braked axle) then the roll bar will see no differential on either side, hence both wheels will go up together, there will be no torsional twist (this is how an ARB works) on the bar whatsoever.
the relevance between rally/race/road has no bearing on what we are discussing here, you are saying that comp struts are no good for the road/track - everyone who has used them disagrees.
your car cannot have been setup properly if it didnt work (to make it as bad as you say ! )
it certainly wasnt the best way by any means.
Of course I know why I/we use compression strut, but please do not quote me from th eold works escort (mk1/2) books about forest/tar settings as it really doesnt apply in todays world of suspension design.
and never in a month of Sundays will the arb do anything for you braking in a straight line, as both wheels compress(weight transfered to the braked axle) then the roll bar will see no differential on either side, hence both wheels will go up together, there will be no torsional twist (this is how an ARB works) on the bar whatsoever.
the relevance between rally/race/road has no bearing on what we are discussing here, you are saying that comp struts are no good for the road/track - everyone who has used them disagrees.
your car cannot have been setup properly if it didnt work (to make it as bad as you say ! )
you all seem to be forgetting what the OP post was regards
ITS A COSWORTH not some modern full blown WRC car
And regards braking , im talking about a car in an unstable situation not a perfect straight line , please read my earlier post regards the high speed run and posible having a blow out or hitting a bump etc
you seem to be a bit like a religious man and ownly pick parts you want to read
I would NO WAY ever tell anyone to run C/S without a ARB on a cosworth ,road / track car , I have done it on 3 different cars . correctly set up and found the results simply shocking , and we are talking ROAD / TRACK cars NOT rally cars that have all the other correct parts fitted
Have you ever run a road car Mark with c/s ?
I agree that the syatem will work well if all other suspension parts etc are uprated with the correct items to match , what im talking about is a heavy old road / track car that was never designed to run this syatem , and again ,,IMO ,, the cosworth does not drive / handle well with c/s without the ARB
We acn go on and on all day , I have done it and would never do it again ON A COSWORTH without the rest of the suspension etc uprated to suit
And why is a mk2 escort any different from a cosworth Mark other than the weight etc , the suspension set up is almost identical is it not ?
And when and why do they use c/s on them ??
If your happy to tell people that c/s is ok without a ARB on a road / track mark then fine , as said above we will have to agree to disagree as i have been there and done it and will not do it again
Last edited by Mr RS500; 31-07-2011 at 06:12 PM.
31-07-2011, 06:20 PM
#27
Im getting bored of this now, but will say, that I have no problem whatsoever using them, ye sI have used them on a road car, please remember before I decided that cosworths where something I wanted to use in competition, road cars is where I started, ive had a good few in various states of tune.
I would never ever own another for the road, but that is a differant story.
How many people who actually do track days/one make saloon races etc use other than std uprights/struts/rear beam etc ? they are no differant to a road car, most have poorly specced off the shelf dampers, just like the ones you would buy for yours, Gaz/Leda/Avo will all sell you a damper to fit in a std hub, 99.9% of people buy them thinking they have bought a competition part for a road car, they havent. they have bought an incorrectly specced part for their intended use.
As for the escort, similar but reversed and their was a big uprorar when ford started using compression struts, then it was only for tar, and arb for gravel, was a long drawn out saga.
enjoy !
I would never ever own another for the road, but that is a differant story.
How many people who actually do track days/one make saloon races etc use other than std uprights/struts/rear beam etc ? they are no differant to a road car, most have poorly specced off the shelf dampers, just like the ones you would buy for yours, Gaz/Leda/Avo will all sell you a damper to fit in a std hub, 99.9% of people buy them thinking they have bought a competition part for a road car, they havent. they have bought an incorrectly specced part for their intended use.
As for the escort, similar but reversed and their was a big uprorar when ford started using compression struts, then it was only for tar, and arb for gravel, was a long drawn out saga.
enjoy !
31-07-2011, 06:25 PM
#28
Im getting bored of this now, but will say, that I have no problem whatsoever using them, ye sI have used them on a road car, please remember before I decided that cosworths where something I wanted to use in competition, road cars is where I started, ive had a good few in various states of tune.
I would never ever own another for the road, but that is a differant story.
How many people who actually do track days/one make saloon races etc use other than std uprights/struts/rear beam etc ? they are no differant to a road car, most have poorly specced off the shelf dampers, just like the ones you would buy for yours, Gaz/Leda/Avo will all sell you a damper to fit in a std hub, 99.9% of people buy them thinking they have bought a competition part for a road car, they havent. they have bought an incorrectly specced part for their intended use.
As for the escort, similar but reversed and their was a big uprorar when ford started using compression struts, then it was only for tar, and arb for gravel, was a long drawn out saga.
enjoy !
I would never ever own another for the road, but that is a differant story.
How many people who actually do track days/one make saloon races etc use other than std uprights/struts/rear beam etc ? they are no differant to a road car, most have poorly specced off the shelf dampers, just like the ones you would buy for yours, Gaz/Leda/Avo will all sell you a damper to fit in a std hub, 99.9% of people buy them thinking they have bought a competition part for a road car, they havent. they have bought an incorrectly specced part for their intended use.
As for the escort, similar but reversed and their was a big uprorar when ford started using compression struts, then it was only for tar, and arb for gravel, was a long drawn out saga.
enjoy !
Hasnt you point about people buying " off the shelf struts etc " totaly agreed with my point , lol
As i said the same , this system isnt any good without the other CORRECT parts that go with them
we are talking coworth road cars here , not correctly prepared race cars
why you getting board Mark , please dont give up
I like it when people dont agree it saves me having to watch the telly
Last edited by Mr RS500; 31-07-2011 at 06:36 PM.
31-07-2011, 08:37 PM
#29
I actually have 909 billys
Hasnt you point about people buying " off the shelf struts etc " totaly agreed with my point , lol
As i said the same , this system isnt any good without the other CORRECT parts that go with them
we are talking coworth road cars here , not correctly prepared race cars
why you getting board Mark , please dont give up
I like it when people dont agree it saves me having to watch the telly
Hasnt you point about people buying " off the shelf struts etc " totaly agreed with my point , lol
As i said the same , this system isnt any good without the other CORRECT parts that go with them
we are talking coworth road cars here , not correctly prepared race cars
why you getting board Mark , please dont give up
I like it when people dont agree it saves me having to watch the telly
Sorry, decided to go and watch a chick flick for something interesting to watch
01-08-2011, 09:49 AM
#31
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Paul, don't get the hump, this is quite an interesting topic. Both you & Markk have experience that could be very valuable to pass on 
Incidently, what problems did you find running only compression struts as opposed to an ARB? My Escos is fitted with comp struts, with no arb. It seems to be a vast improvement over just the old ARB, but I am running gravel spec 909 billies front & rear, and the entire car is solid mounted & rose jointed, bar the differential mount.
Personally I have found turn in to be much more positive, & braking vastly more stable. That said, my spring rates are quite stiff, 480lbs/in I seem to remember, but I do have a bladed ARB tucked away to fit should I ever feel it is required.
Incidently, what problems did you find running only compression struts as opposed to an ARB? My Escos is fitted with comp struts, with no arb. It seems to be a vast improvement over just the old ARB, but I am running gravel spec 909 billies front & rear, and the entire car is solid mounted & rose jointed, bar the differential mount.
Personally I have found turn in to be much more positive, & braking vastly more stable. That said, my spring rates are quite stiff, 480lbs/in I seem to remember, but I do have a bladed ARB tucked away to fit should I ever feel it is required.
01-08-2011, 10:10 AM
#32
Regular Contributor
While not haveing much experience with the Cosworth, but many other cars, and podiums as a result.
I imagine that running compression struts means that when braking, the is not change in toe compared the the standard ARB mounted to the TCA with rubber bushes. While braking in a straight line, there should be no difference, but braking into a corner would be a different matter due to no ARB, and the load being transferred onto the outer front wheel. The big difference to Will's car running an ARB, would be the ability to run softer front springs, therefore increaseing mechanical grip, and using the ARB to control roll. Being able to adjust the ARB is handy for dailing under/over steer in the car. Having a rear adjustable ARB is an even bigger bonus
John
I imagine that running compression struts means that when braking, the is not change in toe compared the the standard ARB mounted to the TCA with rubber bushes. While braking in a straight line, there should be no difference, but braking into a corner would be a different matter due to no ARB, and the load being transferred onto the outer front wheel. The big difference to Will's car running an ARB, would be the ability to run softer front springs, therefore increaseing mechanical grip, and using the ARB to control roll. Being able to adjust the ARB is handy for dailing under/over steer in the car. Having a rear adjustable ARB is an even bigger bonus
John
01-08-2011, 12:17 PM
#33
While not haveing much experience with the Cosworth, but many other cars, and podiums as a result.
I imagine that running compression struts means that when braking, the is not change in toe compared the the standard ARB mounted to the TCA with rubber bushes. While braking in a straight line, there should be no difference, but braking into a corner would be a different matter due to no ARB, and the load being transferred onto the outer front wheel. The big difference to Will's car running an ARB, would be the ability to run softer front springs, therefore increaseing mechanical grip, and using the ARB to control roll. Being able to adjust the ARB is handy for dailing under/over steer in the car. Having a rear adjustable ARB is an even bigger bonus
John
I imagine that running compression struts means that when braking, the is not change in toe compared the the standard ARB mounted to the TCA with rubber bushes. While braking in a straight line, there should be no difference, but braking into a corner would be a different matter due to no ARB, and the load being transferred onto the outer front wheel. The big difference to Will's car running an ARB, would be the ability to run softer front springs, therefore increaseing mechanical grip, and using the ARB to control roll. Being able to adjust the ARB is handy for dailing under/over steer in the car. Having a rear adjustable ARB is an even bigger bonus
John
you seem to have grasped it
Wil
you also have hit the nail on the head , your car is not you every day cosworth and to compensate for no ARB you have drasticly uprated your front springs to stop " dive " into a corner
this is the exact points i have been trying to make , C/S is no good for a simple swap on your average road / track car , you need to drasticly change many other things on the car to match how you have changed the front end of the car
The problem these days is people dont realy understand what there fitting and think because mr x has them on his car then they must be ok , they dont realsie the other mods mr x"s car has
Last edited by Mr RS500; 01-08-2011 at 12:34 PM.
01-08-2011, 12:26 PM
#34
Regular Contributor
I bloody hope so, I'v been at it long enough.
Though I will add, you see so many cars built by good names in the race/track business, and have no idea about spring and bar rates, roll centre's, toe change in corners, etc. We in Ireland are very lucky to have Mondello race track, it's very tight, twisty, and very technical, and it sort's out the men from the boys.
John
Though I will add, you see so many cars built by good names in the race/track business, and have no idea about spring and bar rates, roll centre's, toe change in corners, etc. We in Ireland are very lucky to have Mondello race track, it's very tight, twisty, and very technical, and it sort's out the men from the boys.
John
01-08-2011, 02:28 PM
#35
Im confused Wills car has 480lb springs and uses cs, mine has an arb and is at 550lbs and this week I'm fitting 750lb springs as last week at croft it was still too soft at the front, (outside footage shows it's still leaning badly)
I know I need to change the struts to match the spring rate but I don't have any yet!
very interesting subject tho!
Steve
I know I need to change the struts to match the spring rate but I don't have any yet!
very interesting subject tho!
Steve
01-08-2011, 03:22 PM
#36
Im confused Wills car has 480lb springs and uses cs, mine has an arb and is at 550lbs and this week I'm fitting 750lb springs as last week at croft it was still too soft at the front, (outside footage shows it's still leaning badly)
I know I need to change the struts to match the spring rate but I don't have any yet!
very interesting subject tho!
Steve
I know I need to change the struts to match the spring rate but I don't have any yet!
very interesting subject tho!
Steve
I think you need to invest in some propper suspension front and rear Steve
you must remember that the rear is just as important as the front , No matter what you do to the front if the rear is shite it will never handle correct
Plus somtimes its the style of driving that can make a total differance to how a car handles
Last edited by Mr RS500; 01-08-2011 at 03:23 PM.
01-08-2011, 03:38 PM
#37
Regular Contributor
Im confused Wills car has 480lb springs and uses cs, mine has an arb and is at 550lbs and this week I'm fitting 750lb springs as last week at croft it was still too soft at the front, (outside footage shows it's still leaning badly)
I know I need to change the struts to match the spring rate but I don't have any yet!
very interesting subject tho!
Steve
I know I need to change the struts to match the spring rate but I don't have any yet!
very interesting subject tho!
Steve
John
01-08-2011, 04:00 PM
#38
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Im confused Wills car has 480lb springs and uses cs, mine has an arb and is at 550lbs and this week I'm fitting 750lb springs as last week at croft it was still too soft at the front, (outside footage shows it's still leaning badly)
I know I need to change the struts to match the spring rate but I don't have any yet!
very interesting subject tho!
Steve
I know I need to change the struts to match the spring rate but I don't have any yet!
very interesting subject tho!
Steve
Roll Centre:
750Lb springs will probably crack your windscreen
Last edited by RWD_cossie_wil; 01-08-2011 at 04:10 PM.
