ST24MK2

Mondeo V6 petrol boiled itself, turned it off the moment before the guage climbed to the red, forced water out of the header tank which went on the fan belt area and sprayed all over the screen, rad was stone cold as were the heaters, called breakdown and got dragged home, car starts and runs fine but once it gets up to fan kicking temperature the fan kicks in them it boils itself within a minute flat? Thanks

RS Grant

iTrader: (1)

Water pump issue?? The advice is usually to replace the water pump on an ST24 for one of the later metal impellar types because the older plastic impellar type are unreliable... has this been done do you know??


Cheers,
Grant

RichieST

iTrader: (2)

If radiator is cold that screams water pump to me, and they are very common with the plastic impellor pumps as grant says.

ST24MK2

Bit of an update, couldnt get hold of a thermostat brand new anywhere, so got a second hand thermostat and housing and just fitted it it came off a working V6 ghia x (same engine) that was an MOT failure, 3 hoses off, 3 hoses on, took 5 minutes. filled it up with water, ran it with the cap off, heated up slowly, got to fan kicking in temperature, fan kicked in, boiled over again.

Rad and heaters still stone cold :@

I dont know if it has been changed or not, really stuck because its my workhorse and i need it to get to work and its starting to stress me out.

Waterpump issue then? No chance of a blockage anywhere?

Im 30 miles from home at a friends aswell to make matters worse and doubt ill be able to get a pump till monday.

I hate cars sometimes :@

Thanks

tiny2white

iTrader: (2)

Deffo water pump

RichieST

iTrader: (2)

Got to be water pump. I guess to double check you don't have a blockage you could take hoses off and run a hosepipe through everything, but I doubt it's your problem, you would have noticed it overheating more and more over time instead of just straight away.

xr4x4rs

iTrader: (5)

is the water bubbling up with the header tank cap off? or is it doing it when its on?

as if its off the water will bubble over

Si B

iTrader: (59)

Water pump fo shiz

fraser9764

iTrader: (3)

Water pump as said with the rad being cold, but also worth remembering the coolant system runs under pressure, this means the boiling point of the coolant increases. Cars will often normally run quite a bit over 100 deg.C. Obviosly this wont happen with the header tank cap off or faulty.

ST24MK2

When the engine is like from cold, up to fan kicking in temperature, then the water in the header tank doesnt move, stays on MAX after refilling it obviously, i thought normally water should flow in and out, but it doesnt, it just stays still as if the engine was off?

There is 2 pipes going to the header tank, bottom one is hot and is the one that causes it bubble and boil over once the fan kicks in but the top hose is cold and doesnt seem to do anything?

But yes the water only moves and bubbles up when its reached fan kicking in temperature, with or without the cap off it does the same, only difference is if the cap is on then obviously the pressure is greater and it forces its way out.

Getting new pump tommorow metal impellor one Ł54 inc VAT easy enough job with airbox and battery out, apparantlty once i removed the old one i will find the impellor/shaft has broken off the old one inside the pump?

Its on 125k, ive never changed it, and dont seem to have a reicept for it being done either.

xr4x4rs

iTrader: (5)

ok, you have no water in the rad

what happens is the ethermostat keeps the water in the engine until running temp once it hits a certain temp for the stat to opn this is when teh water recirculates as it then enters the rad for it to be cooled down

run it up with the cap on and keep an eye on your temp gauge anything in normal is fine even if its close to the red, but obviously dont let it go into the red

let it warm up and see if the stat opens to let the waterin the rad

but the tsrange thing is you say your heaters are cold, well these should be hot so obviously now its a water pump problem by the soudns of it

ST24MK2

Waterpump has proper shit itself.

Plastic impellor is in about 7 pieces, ive pieced back together the impellor but cant find the other remaining fragments.

Smashed the shit out of my undertray with a lump hammer in a hissy fit tryna find an extension bar and its not gone down there so will it cause any further issues if parts of the plastic have gone into the cooling system?

There should be no further issues once i change the pump should there? The moment it boiled itself i lobbed it straight on the kerb and turned it off, and it was only run up to temp briefly to show the recovery guy the issue and then again when i fitted the stat to see if it worked.


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Thanks

The Youth.

iTrader: (1)

9 times out of ten when the pump goes like that at least one of the headgaskets fails, I have broke many v6 mondeos with this problem but one did run sweet as a nut for 2 years after I changed the pump so you may be lucky fingers crossed, also fit a metal impeller pump to stop it happening again

steve

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Yeh get a metal propella pump fitted and forget about it.

ST24MK2

It hasnt ran hot for more than what, 3 , 30 - 1 minute intervals so didnt think it would have fried it? There is no mayo on the dipstick or oil cap and it starts and runs fine no loss of compression or power?

Someones told me to pull top n bottom rad hoses off and stick a hose in top one and flush it through.

cheers

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Just stick a new pump on it and try it.

ST24MK2

Is it true when the headgaskets go on these they dont mix the oil n water? they just ' tick ' ? do they not overheat?

xr4x4rs

iTrader: (5)

they have a ticking noise, and its usually on the back head, what it does is it warps and the ticking is the gasket flapping around from compression of the cylinder, problem is its the same exact noise as when exhaust manifold gaskets fail

i think now after seeing that i may get a new water pump as mine is having a full st200 upgrade next week and knowing my luck it will blow up

ST24MK2

minds aswell mate, im the kind of guy thats all words and no action ill say im going to do something but wont unless i really really have to and end up paying the price as you see here

ST24MK2

New waterpump fitted, touch wood problem solved.

Never retrieved the missing pieces of the old plastic impellor, so just hoping it will be ok.

Problem i have now is i took the battery off yesterday and put it back on today but the car wont idle now, keeps cutting out or stalling when the clutch is dropped?

Cheers

dojj

iTrader: (3)

as soon as i opened the thread i was thinking "waterpump has shat itself" and "he'll have to fit the metal one"

the issue you may have is that a bit of the plastic might work it's way into some difficult part of the engine which will fuck it, so make sure you get all the bits and try and piece them together again to make sure nothing major is lost in the engine internals somewhere

ST24MK2

Basically when i took the old pump off, i didnt get chance to grab it all so im not sure if some fell into the undertray, i had to tap the old pump with a hammer to get it off.

Ive got one large piece which is around 1/2 the size of the impellor, another piece thats the other 1/4 then ive got another piece that would have been the other 1/4 but id say 1/3 of its missing, so only a fraction, its heating up fine.

Just about to endure a 30 mile drive home, so i guess this is judgement time.

Will the ECU sort its head out with regards to the cutting out?

Cheers

James

how hard is it to do the water pump?

mines done 100k on a 2000 plate and i'm reluctant to fix something thats not broke, but i'm frightened it's going to leave me stranded one day!

dojj

iTrader: (3)

it may have gone into its learning mode if you've disconnected the battery so you may have to drive it to make it "relearn" some paramiters

ST24MK2

Id forgot to put this pipe back on the airbox assembly, plastic thing with a closed end. Runs fine now, done 40 miles with no issues, suppose ill have to wait and see.

James its a piece of piss to change mate, only hard part is the snap clips (like jubilee clips that hold the hoses on but they open and close with large molegrips have to pinch them to open them)

Airbox off, battery out, then its self explanatory, the metal T piece thing you see in the middle is the thermostat housing, inside is obviously the thermostat, remove that first, (itl dump most the water so either catch it or move out the way)

Basically the waterpump is bolted to a housing, and the housing is bolted to the engine.

There is 3 hoses, the one nearest the back is on a plastic join you have to be gentle with this because it can snap off, then there is one underneath and then another above the plastic one, if i was you id remove the plastic one while its bolted to the car, then there is 3 out of the 6 or 7 boltd that hold the housing to the engine, remove these 3 gives you room to get the other bottom hose and top hose off, then undo the other bolts and you may have to gently tap it with a hammer to seperate the pump from the housing.

Got a nice solid metal one in mine now.

Scrape off the old gasket from the housing, smooth it with wet and dry, apply a decent layer of universal blue instant gasket to the clean surface, apply the gasket you got with the new pump, apply instant gasket to the new pump, then put all the shorter bolts in so you have just refitted the pump back to the housing, then you can refit the awkard hoses, bolt it back up to the car and obviously as you did to dismantle it do again to re assemble. Leave the header tank cap off, fill it up, start it up, check for leaks, let it run up to temperature, once the radiater feels warm and the heaters and hot and the water level is sitting comfortably should be good to go.

Id change it now if it hasnt been changed, because if it breaks up like mine has theres a chance a bit of plastic has got into the engine somewhere and could fuck it, i havent retrieved the last part of mine so i guess time will only tell for me, id do yours while its ok if i was you.

STAFFY OWNER

Had to change the water pump on my old Mk 3 XR3i many years ago and it was a right bastard job for someone who was at the time a mechanical novice (still not much better now). It was basically the same as changing the timing belt and water pump all in one go. Changing the pump on a V6 Mondeo sounds much easier but looking in the Haynes manual it sounds like you have to remove the timing belt to change the pump on a 4 cylinder - trust me to have a 4 cylinder Mondeo, just my luck the pump will give up on that now .