1.8t VW tuning?
#1
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Hi
Does anyone know anything about 1.8t's found in VW's ?
I just bought a passat it has the AWT 1.8t 20v longitudal.
I have the following planned for it but then I dont know what the AWT can handle, or why its longitudal when its just FWD, surely it would fit in normally like an S3 or TT ? Can I do a swap to an S3 engine, which are 225hp standard, 265hp remapped, and forged!?
This is what I proposed:
4 coilpacks
180F temperature mods (for cooling)
motal oil cooler kit
Milltek 2.5" system with hidden tailpipes.
k&n 57i (so i can hear the turbo)
Forge FMIC
Forge Split-R BOV
Evochips remap.
This should give me around 200hp reliable hp and decrease the DBW lag, right!?
Then its on to bigger turbos as far as i understand, but im not sure at what point i have to mess about with internals on the AWT ?
Cheers
Does anyone know anything about 1.8t's found in VW's ?
I just bought a passat it has the AWT 1.8t 20v longitudal.
I have the following planned for it but then I dont know what the AWT can handle, or why its longitudal when its just FWD, surely it would fit in normally like an S3 or TT ? Can I do a swap to an S3 engine, which are 225hp standard, 265hp remapped, and forged!?
This is what I proposed:
4 coilpacks
180F temperature mods (for cooling)
motal oil cooler kit
Milltek 2.5" system with hidden tailpipes.
k&n 57i (so i can hear the turbo)
Forge FMIC
Forge Split-R BOV
Evochips remap.
This should give me around 200hp reliable hp and decrease the DBW lag, right!?
Then its on to bigger turbos as far as i understand, but im not sure at what point i have to mess about with internals on the AWT ?
Cheers
#2
Professional Waffler
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Engine swap is a non starter as the 225 motors are mounted transversely not in line.
For 200bhp;
Decent remap
710 VAG recirc valve (from BAM)
Decent exhaust and Decat
4 bar FPR (from AEB)
AS I'm struggling with a good intercooler solution for now I just drilled the arch liner out behind teh intercooler to aid air flow through it a boit which does seem to have helped.
I made 181bhp off my 150 AEB with a Superchip, K&N cone filter and a Forge 007 Re-circ valve
For 200bhp;
Decent remap
710 VAG recirc valve (from BAM)
Decent exhaust and Decat
4 bar FPR (from AEB)
AS I'm struggling with a good intercooler solution for now I just drilled the arch liner out behind teh intercooler to aid air flow through it a boit which does seem to have helped.
I made 181bhp off my 150 AEB with a Superchip, K&N cone filter and a Forge 007 Re-circ valve
#4
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Why wont the engine fit transversly into my passat ? Thats what i dont get, it doesnt NEED to be longitudal as far as I can see as its not RWD or 4WD, its FWD like a golf mk4.
Or, why wont the S3 transverse engine fit longitudally if i just turned it round ?
It seems alot cheaper to just buy an s3 engine and remap it for 265hp than it does trying to get to that power from the 1.8t I have ?
And can i swap the head for a big port one ?
Or, why wont the S3 transverse engine fit longitudally if i just turned it round ?
It seems alot cheaper to just buy an s3 engine and remap it for 265hp than it does trying to get to that power from the 1.8t I have ?
And can i swap the head for a big port one ?
#6
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Why wont the engine fit transversly into my passat ? Thats what i dont get, it doesnt NEED to be longitudal as far as I can see as its not RWD or 4WD, its FWD like a golf mk4.
Or, why wont the S3 transverse engine fit longitudally if i just turned it round ?
It seems alot cheaper to just buy an s3 engine and remap it for 265hp than it does trying to get to that power from the 1.8t I have ?
And can i swap the head for a big port one ?
Or, why wont the S3 transverse engine fit longitudally if i just turned it round ?
It seems alot cheaper to just buy an s3 engine and remap it for 265hp than it does trying to get to that power from the 1.8t I have ?
And can i swap the head for a big port one ?
My mate has a S3 and has said they have very complicated ECU's so if you fit the engine you will also need the ECU also, you can't drop in a S3 engine and use your original ECU.
The blocks are different, something to do with the pulley set up and water pump set up.
Large port head can be fitted to any of the 1.8 20v blocks
The easiest way to get 260+ is to fit the S3 Turbo, manifold, Injectors and remap it
#7
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all the same ish from the n.a. to the 225 in seats tt,s s3, just turbos ecu,s ect, get a early 1.8 n.a. big valve head, gt28, injectors, mapable ecu, and rods and pistons if you want big power
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#8
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My mate know a bit about them as he is building his S3 with a bored and stroke 1.8 to 2.1, Ported AEB head, forged bottom end, Big intercooler, external waste gate, GTX3076r Turbo, Valves and springs upgrade, twin fuel pump, 870cc injectors and going for 500 bhp
Engine bay still looks standard !!
Engine bay still looks standard !!
#14
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a friend of mine has the AGU lump and it runs on 361hp at the following mods
1.8t AGU
* TD05H-18G Forced Performance turbo
* 3" Maf housing
* Bosh 440cc injectors
* 4bar fuel pressure regulator
* Jabbasport cast exhaust manifold
* 4bar fuel pump
* N75j Solenoid valve
* Jabbasport 3" downpipe with Cast Outlet
* 3" Bespoke mandrel bent de-catted system with Anniversary style exit
* Custom REVO remapped
* Carbonio cold air intake
* Forge front mount intercooler
* Forge Boost hoses
1.8t AGU
* TD05H-18G Forced Performance turbo
* 3" Maf housing
* Bosh 440cc injectors
* 4bar fuel pressure regulator
* Jabbasport cast exhaust manifold
* 4bar fuel pump
* N75j Solenoid valve
* Jabbasport 3" downpipe with Cast Outlet
* 3" Bespoke mandrel bent de-catted system with Anniversary style exit
* Custom REVO remapped
* Carbonio cold air intake
* Forge front mount intercooler
* Forge Boost hoses
#16
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Personally I wouldnt be spending the money on things like a milltek etc, I would just service it, fit a decent intercooler, and remap it, its not a car worth spending fortunes on, you would be better off fitting a bigger engine if you wanted really big power in a heavy car like that.
200bhp in it would be plenty for making i bearable to live with, and if you want to go really fast then buy something a lot lighter or with a lot bigger engine, small engine plus big car is a recipe for struggling to make it fast and reliable at once without spending fortunes IMHO
200bhp in it would be plenty for making i bearable to live with, and if you want to go really fast then buy something a lot lighter or with a lot bigger engine, small engine plus big car is a recipe for struggling to make it fast and reliable at once without spending fortunes IMHO
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I have a VRS and was told that stage 1 mods would be a decent panel filter, 007p valve, and a remap and that i should see 210ish. which imo is perfect for a daily runner.
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I would look at a few basic mods and you could get a fairly decent power from it.
I would go for a KO3s turbo, Decat and custom exhaust ( far cheaper than Milltek) and upgraded TIP and a FMIC.
With that lot you would be pushing about 230bhp with a custom Map from someone like R-Tech.
Other things to look at are give it a good service and when you change the plugs go run grade cooler. Also replace as much of your vacuum system with 4mm silicone hoses as possible and look at doing a PCV delete and catch can install. The PCV system and one way valves are prone to splitting and causing lots of vacuum issues and for the sake of £60ish you can replace the whole lot with a far simpler and more reliable set up.
The other thing I would recommend is getting your self a Vac Com (VCDS) cable and the free version of Ross Tech software. THen you can run some basic logs, fault code checks and clearing too.
I would go for a KO3s turbo, Decat and custom exhaust ( far cheaper than Milltek) and upgraded TIP and a FMIC.
With that lot you would be pushing about 230bhp with a custom Map from someone like R-Tech.
Other things to look at are give it a good service and when you change the plugs go run grade cooler. Also replace as much of your vacuum system with 4mm silicone hoses as possible and look at doing a PCV delete and catch can install. The PCV system and one way valves are prone to splitting and causing lots of vacuum issues and for the sake of £60ish you can replace the whole lot with a far simpler and more reliable set up.
The other thing I would recommend is getting your self a Vac Com (VCDS) cable and the free version of Ross Tech software. THen you can run some basic logs, fault code checks and clearing too.
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#20
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Cheaper but not usually worth a squirt. Decent custom system that will actually deliver the goods will be on par price wise with the Milltek or even more expensive
#21
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I wouldnt mess around with an ecu from the s3 i would just autronic it and have Chip here map it ![Grin](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
It seems the best option is the 2.7tt out of the S4, im told (and shown) its a direct fitment and has the power and torque to match, a few changes and your knocking on 380hp, im also told i can convert to 4wd easily too.
Chip: im not sure 200hp will be enough after I put my ICE in
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It seems the best option is the 2.7tt out of the S4, im told (and shown) its a direct fitment and has the power and torque to match, a few changes and your knocking on 380hp, im also told i can convert to 4wd easily too.
Chip: im not sure 200hp will be enough after I put my ICE in
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#22
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200bhp in it would be plenty for making i bearable to live with, and if you want to go really fast then buy something a lot lighter or with a lot bigger engine, small engine plus big car is a recipe for struggling to make it fast and reliable at once without spending fortunes IMHO
#23
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My misses has got a A3 1.8t on a Y plate. Been very reliable from new bar the odd sensor, miltek, decatted, air filter. Want it remapping next. Gearbox's don't like fast changes. So no point IMO of having big horse power.
#24
The more turbos,more fun!
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You wont get more than 340bhp tops on standard turbos on the S4 2.7tt lump.
Also my Octavia vrs is running 330bhp on a standard engine and my car was built by jabbasport
Also my Octavia vrs is running 330bhp on a standard engine and my car was built by jabbasport
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#25
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From what i was told 360 is the limit of the rods. It was also mapped on normal 95 ron fuel @ AMD essex.
He now runs a Blitz boost controller and is always running V power
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Its not the BHP that kills the rods, its thr torque.
Always been said that over 300lb fts kills rods on the 20vT engine.
you could stick a t3 manifold and T34 turbo on your passat, S3 MAF, S3 injectors, decent FMIC, decat / sports cat and decent exhaust system and have around 280bhp.
An "uprated" tip isnt really going to make a massive difference. Dont run a Split-R valve, they're not good for this engine, run a recirc valve.
a K03s will fit straight on your car, just need some jiggery pokery to make it fit the downpipe and you'd have a turbo capable of around 240bhp.
It depends how much you want to spend really!!
Always been said that over 300lb fts kills rods on the 20vT engine.
you could stick a t3 manifold and T34 turbo on your passat, S3 MAF, S3 injectors, decent FMIC, decat / sports cat and decent exhaust system and have around 280bhp.
An "uprated" tip isnt really going to make a massive difference. Dont run a Split-R valve, they're not good for this engine, run a recirc valve.
a K03s will fit straight on your car, just need some jiggery pokery to make it fit the downpipe and you'd have a turbo capable of around 240bhp.
It depends how much you want to spend really!!
#27
The more turbos,more fun!
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Ive just looked at mine, and im octavia is defo a standard engine and was rolling roaded at 326bhp/311 torques @ 1.4 bar.
Been running this sort of power now since it 50k, and now on 117k it had a new turbo at 109k tho.
Been running this sort of power now since it 50k, and now on 117k it had a new turbo at 109k tho.
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Which engine were they from chip? Auq/bam? Etc if you can remember?
The rods in the BAM engine aren't that much different to the ones in the auq engine
The rods in the BAM engine aren't that much different to the ones in the auq engine
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