Dry sump disadvantages?
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Is there any disadvantages of fitting a dry sump? Car will be used on the road, few track days and a fair bit of 1/4 mile. It's for a zetec turbo as I don't want the oil pump worries.
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Same old story , you always have to weigh up the advantages over disadvantages , Agree with Luca about his 2 disadvantages , but there are more
1 Cost ( As per Luca )
2 Space for Tank ( As per Luca )
3 Drive belt , both positioning and its impact on other belts , it should have its own dedicated belt , which is fine in RWD installations , but with not much space at the nose of the crank can be difficult in fwd applications
4 The pump itself should be mounted low for good scavenging , and in a ERST or FRST this can be difficult as you know the low position is taken by alternator and driveshaft , so you need to relocate the alternator higher ... but where as it gets close to exhaust manifold at front and inlet at rear .... nothing is impossible but sometimes it just is not worth it .
5 Plumbing pressure back in , always a problem in converted engines as it has to be externally done from pump and can be another weak point
Would say if pump is the worry then fit a new one every 12 months , may seem extreme but cost (pump only) versus cost and complexity (dry sump) , might be the better route
1 Cost ( As per Luca )
2 Space for Tank ( As per Luca )
3 Drive belt , both positioning and its impact on other belts , it should have its own dedicated belt , which is fine in RWD installations , but with not much space at the nose of the crank can be difficult in fwd applications
4 The pump itself should be mounted low for good scavenging , and in a ERST or FRST this can be difficult as you know the low position is taken by alternator and driveshaft , so you need to relocate the alternator higher ... but where as it gets close to exhaust manifold at front and inlet at rear .... nothing is impossible but sometimes it just is not worth it .
5 Plumbing pressure back in , always a problem in converted engines as it has to be externally done from pump and can be another weak point
Would say if pump is the worry then fit a new one every 12 months , may seem extreme but cost (pump only) versus cost and complexity (dry sump) , might be the better route
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If I only had got replace the std pump every 12 months I think we all would be laughing. That's the problem they don't last that long.
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Is it Julian godfreys cossy drysump kit that runs off the cambelt?
If so a well thought out design! If that belt goes your in trouble anyways, the oil pump is the least of ya worries!!
If so a well thought out design! If that belt goes your in trouble anyways, the oil pump is the least of ya worries!!
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Suppose there's a chance of anything locking up though isn't there...
Like rich's saff in France years ago, the alternator tensioner bolt working it's way loose into the cam belt! Now we thought at the time maybe if he didn't run a Cambelt cover that may not of happened.. it just one of those how's ya luck moments!!
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just been having a read about the failure mode of the pumps , I have to say it sounds like high revs and high power are the key to the crank flex that people are putting these down too , i for one realise that a dry sump kit would be the way to go ultimately , but for a road going car then I would of thought getting a non flexing crank would be the way to go , and to keep the harmonic front pulley , would think any pump would fail if crank nose is moving and it is using the pump gears to support it , could always go forged crank , kill 2 birds with one stone
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Dry sump are the right way to go about it , as stated down side is cost and space as for position hight wise that's not so much of a problem as a good pump sucks like fuck and will lift solid state oil no probs but this don't mean you want to mount it in the boot lol, but saying that I think we ( ie pace when I worked there) had a drag car in with a pump in the boot which pumped the oil forward to the engine , not ideal but it worked, I worked with dry sumps for 10 year and now I'm looking at manufacturing dry sump systems my self , there is no real down side other than the above and if you have a 10k plus engine then you want it to last a while, the main prob you will have is who to use as titans are what they are in the way they look nice ( other than there sump lol) but are not the best by far, and pace was at one point very good but now with stuff subbed out to who ever they feel like that day and the fact they ain't got fuck all in stock and take 12 months to supply and some make it a hard choice ( I am lead to believe titans leed times are not that good to ???), the pulleys and belt are fine alll the time I was at pace I can't remember a pump chucking a belt off due to dirt/stones ( rare but possible) and the boss of pace is a silly horrible person ( that was very nice way of putting it , as most people
I know that know him will agree ) ( lol his little spy's will tell him I wrote that lol there cocks to)
After all that if you can afford it then do it.
I know that know him will agree ) ( lol his little spy's will tell him I wrote that lol there cocks to)
After all that if you can afford it then do it.
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I agree with the belts being almost impossible to break as we had loads of the single seaters go through gravel when many moons ago I worked for Jim Russell Racing Drivers School at Donington , they would more likely punch a hole through the belt rather than snap it completely , but its all the "ifs and buts" that i kinda get worried about , 100% dry sump is the ultimate way to go , its just getting there that is the problem with the confines of everything around the "normal" mounting place for the pump that exist in a zetec FWD Turbo
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Space is always a problem ( my shed is full up with bikes and toys lol) couldn't resist lol, it is a problem but it normally is on most installs that's part of the fun ( some times) as much as I fuck hate push work paces way they do/did a fwd kit , as for space you have to make do with what you have got that's why I had to design a manufacture a dry sump kit for a duratec in a f3 car ( over 300 hp in a car that's about 440 kilos / nice) it ended up with a billet 25mm pan with pump built on to it ( the sump is lower that the engines front cover) and it looks the tits , it has been used and done bloody well, so you can always work around space issues it just costs a little more
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