got an st220, clutch slave cylinder went, its a big pain in the arse job so bought a full new LUK clutch kit with flywheel and slave myself and got a local garage to fit it, cost £300 in labour..

got it back and all was fine for 20 miles until it warmed up..

suddenly doesnt want to go in first at a standstill or go in any gear smoothly, so parked it up on the drive, left it till next day.

jump back in and all is fine, till it gets warmed up again and does the same thing..

so back to the garage it goes, no obvious leaks or fluid loss on master or slave cylinders, mechanic tries bleeding it again just to rule that out, no air in it, then mechanic telling me its the master and thats another 160 fitted, hes also telling me that if i want the slave removing and checking over then its another 300 for labour!

iv had the master cylinder go on a focus before and it was pissing out all over my shoe while it was causing that problem??

anyway drove it home and left it overnight. got in it today, still got the same problem even while cold now, but still havnt noticed any leaks anywhere yet..

im betting on the slave being faulty myself, would anybody else expect to pay the labour charge again to have the slave looked at by the same company who fitted it two days earlier??

what do you guys think??

cheers

 

So the garage fitted parts that YOU supplied and they turn out to be faulty. It is down to you to pay and then reclaim off the supplier.

Am with the garage on this one!

 

Quite correct mate.

If the garage had supplied and fitted the parts it would have been up to them to sort it and recoup the costs but not in this case.

Are you sure its bled properly ??

Wee trick to try is to keep the clutch pedal held down overnight with a stick or something similar, remove the top from the master cylinder as well.

Used to have to do this with old Land Rover brakes that were a bugger to get bled correctly, dont ask me how its works as the first time i was told to try it i was a tad sceptical but it worked so worth giving it a go.

 

as said be very carefull about supplying parts to garages for them to fit, it's not there problem if it's faulty!!

steve

 

sounds like it needs bled to me, does the clutch clear when its in gear?

 

yeah pretty much accepted the part about the labour, but still leaves me wondering whats up with it!

not sure how you mean?

when its doing it if you come to a stand still and try putting it in first with the clutch down then it wont go in and you can feel the car trying to move while your trying the gear.

but if you turn the engine off, put the clutch down and put it in first then start it back up, thats fine, wont try moving anywhere untill you start bringing the clutch up and it will drive as normal..until you try getting the next gear..


but at the same time its intermittent, sometimes you can jump in an just drive it fine!

 

When you pump the pedal a few times does the clutch seem ok?

 

Could be a tight plate on the box spline, had this before, it doesn't fully 100% stop spinning with the clutch down, maybe they didn't apply the correct/any grease to the splines ?, this is what usually causes it.
tabetha

 

never grease the spline! totaly unnesesary and can cause contamination of the friction disc.

 

then it is not "clearing" and is "dragging" backing up most peoples theory of it needing bled. Take it to someone else and get them to bleed it.

 

It's got air in it mate. They're a pig to bleed up

 

It's got air in it, when it's cold the air isn't such an issue but as it gets hot or used more the pedal is becoming more and more difficult

when this happens next, pull the pedal up to the top of it's travel and see if this resolves the issue