Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

Lets have a summary of the fault and what youve checked Erik. I know kenny spent some time with you yesterday, thus i havent contributed to this topic.

Fastmaul

Thanks Stu, I'll have to check everything over. Please give a big Thank You to Kenny!! He gave me a list of things to check! Extremely helpful chap! I'm missing some tools so I'm going to try everything again this Saturday.

Rhys

Good luck dude!!

Say if theres anything give me a tinkle too, but on Saturday i will be mostly pissed all day cos of the Big game, so best not to unless u wont drunk speech

XR4Timan

Eric...try these steps:

The first thing is try drying out the distributor cap & rotor with a dry cloth. Make sure the fuel pump has it's two connectors plugged in, and that the car has over a 1/8-1/4 tank of fuel. Make sure you are using a good set of spark plugs.

Providing the above is true, let's go over what Ford says to do in it's troubleshooting manual:

Step 1: Is the Engine Management (Check Engine) Light continously on (it takes the place where the Fasten Seatbelt light is on the Merkur)?
* if yes, go to Step 2
* if no, go to Step 3

Step 2: Does the self test give any indication of system failure?
* if yes, refer to system codes
* if no, switch ignition 'off' wait 5 seconds. Switch ignition 'on' - codes should now be given

Step 3: Are all electrical system connections clean & secure? Is battery voltage above 7V (ECU will not work below 7V) when cranking? Are vacumn & fuel lines in good condition?
* if yes, go to Step 4
* if no, tighten loose connections. Charge battery if necessary. Fit new fuel/vacumn lines.

(to be continued)...

XR4Timan

Step 4: Is the fuel pump functioning properly? - Disconnect multiplug from engine coolant sensor. - Then switch ignition on but do not start engine. Fuel pump should now run for more than 1 second.

*if it is functioning properly, go to step 5
* if not, carry out breakbox test procedures

Step 5: Is HT (spark) available to all the spark plugs? - Remove No. 1 plug lead from spark plug, connect safe-gap on plug lead and ground - Crank engine & spark should jump air gap - refit plug lead.

* if this works, go to step 7
* if it doesnt, go to step 6

XR4Timan

Step 6: Is the coil producing HT (spark)? - Remove ignition coil HT lead from coil, connect safe-gap lead into coil and onto a good ground and crank engine. Spark should jump air gap. Remove safe-gap lead & reconnect HT lead into distributor.

* if coil is producing spark, then check dist. cap for wear, wetness or cracks. Check rotor & resistance of coil and HT leads. Fit new parts as necessary & go to step 7.
* if it is not producing spark, then carry out breakout box procedure

Step 7: Is the fuel system pressure to spec? - Connect pressure test equipment to fuel rail. Ensure valve is on guage is open & engine coolant temp sensor is disconnected. Switch ignition 'on'. System pressure should be 3.2 bar - 3.8 bar.
* if yes, go to step 8
* if no, check fuel system for leaks or damage. Fit new filter/fuel lines as necessary & repeat test. Fit new fuel pump if fault is evident.

XR4Timan

Step 8: Does the engine start?
* if yes, remove pressure test equipment. Reconnect engine coolant temp sensor. System OK
* if no, go to Step 9 (final step)

Step 9: Remove presure test equipment. Reconnect engine coolant temp sensor. Disconnect multiplug from engine management module & connect breakout box using the appropriate test lead.

At this point, I would replace the ECU itself.

XR4Timan

I told SVONY to give you my number so we can go over the issues. Keep in mind I also have lots of good spares (fuel dist, another L1 ECU with stock chip, etc). Feel free to call me. - Mo

capri-rs

have had the same problems with mine.was the connectors in the wiring loom that was corroded.the loom is probably getting old so check it out

Fastmaul

Thanks guys for your help, SVONY and I were ready to tackle this little annoying problem or throw it in the river! (well not really Svony would have fished it out and taken it home!)
Well The problem was................
We don't know! put in his plugs and cap, rotor,leads, finally turned on, but ran like crap missing everywhere, we put my old plugs back in ok that's better, put on my old rotor and cap,leads and it's fine pretty much the same way it was when it didn't start! ( I think the threat of getting rid of it made it turn on! ) Everything works fine just like it did before. Took it out for a nice drive tomorrow I'm treating my boy to a wash.
So thanks again to all those peeps that chimed in, and to Kenny from Motorsports Developments for taking time out of his busy day to give me some tips/pointers Thanks mate, you're a star. A super huge Thanks goes to SVONY for the help.!!! Woo hooo happy again.

SPADGE

Sounds like you drowned the poor thing in fuel to me Erik
Glad you got it sorted

Rhys

Sweet, mate aslong as the car is now working

88_WRC_Replica

Good news Erik!!! Now bring it on up here we are doing a drive around Niagra Falls today! It's going to be 15 and sunny all day long!!!

XR4Timan

Good to hear it's working again.

Fastmaul

Thanks peeps,
Simon, I thought you were coming down here?

Ztee24

please remove

Rhys

svony

iTrader: (3)

Glad I could help Erik. I would feel a lot better if I knew what the hell it was that I fixed I have to agree with the others, sounds like it flooded and your plugs would not fire.

gearboxman

Maybe, when you took all that stuff off Svony, and maybe took it indoors, it all dried out?

Fastmaul

Bernie, it was all changed on the spot, he has(had cause now I used them LOL) a brand new set of NGK plugs that we used, while my champs just stood there on the slam panel watching.
hmm maybe the plugs really did get flooded?? Ok if so, why didn't it start in the first place? that's the mystery.