rst in breaking

iTrader: (2)

prov bought a big space heater so may bake up garage and attempt spraying it myself as cant get through to duncan to do it lol. how much paint do i need to do a rear quarter, roof, door shut and boot shut? may go abit bufty and do inner arches who knows lol and how much would it cost? its diamond white btw, cheers

tejy

iTrader: (1)

thers a shop in hanwell [next to ealing hospital] in london where i got my paint from. the shop is called "house of colour" the guy who owns it a nice chap who sorted me out. i got 2 pak mipa paint with thinner and hardener for about £180 that sprayed my car over nicely and got loads spare. i didnt have enuf cash on me at the time but he was like dont worry just take it which kinda saved my ass. if u can just go down there and ask him he'll tell u exactly what you'll need.

theres another shop in hayes where i got my primer, general purpose thinner [to clean the gun etc], masking tape and lots of wet/dry paper they are really cheap.. a tin of primer costs around 8quid, 5litre thinner 6/7quid etc etc. the shop is called "car paint" get all ur accessories from there because house of colour is a bit too expensive wen it comes to all the accessories.

i reckon u can get away with 1 tin to do all the stuff u needta do so it shuld set u back with accessories around the £120 mark!

if ya need a hand let me know i dnt mind helping ya spray ur stuff up...and im pretty local.. i done my car and it came out sexyyy loll...

rst in breaking

iTrader: (2)

cheers for the offer mate, greatly appreciated . know ive got a good laquer already as was dearest they done lol. used space heter around same size as im bought on ebay at work today and fuck me it will toast the gaage in 2 mins flat lol

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

if ur painting the whole quarter u might probably find it wont match 100% with diamond white!!! theres a million shades of it u not thought bought doing the whole car?!

Also make sure u use a decent spray gun mate, guess ur going clear and base then if u have lacquer already?! 1L may do u if it covers well, shuts dont normally need alot of paint, also depends if u use waterbase or solvent basecoat, might find it hard 2 get solvent now thou so may have 2 use waterbased which can be tricky if not used right.

What cars it on btw?! cant be tricky painting panels on the car unless its masked right with soft edges as you'll get hard edges in the paint etc

rst in breaking

iTrader: (2)

its on a fiesta turbo, got what im guessing will be an average gravity fed spray gun cost about £35 from paint shop. clear base coat? u saying laquer, paint then laquer?

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

sorry mate should have said basecoat then clearcoat (lacquer)

cookiem

No mate he,s saying you put white base coat on first, let that dry then put your lacquer on that,hope that helps.

cookiem

YOUve answerd before i typed it ,shows how slow i am,lol.

rst in breaking

iTrader: (2)

how i have in mind and norm do it is primer, base coat and paint, are you saying thats wrong?

cookiem

If you want to do it properly and your down to bare metal you want to etch prime it first,then prime it, put your white base coat on and then your lacquer .

tejy

iTrader: (1)

no problem mate. the paint i used the laquer was already mixed in so when me n my mate sprayed my car it we just did a few layers n when it was dry just 1500 gritted it down and buffed it out!

good luck with it mate will be awaiting pics wanna see how it comes out

rst in breaking

iTrader: (2)

i thought etch primer was a primer that you apply paint to?
cheers mate, spoke to duncan now so maybe helping him do it and learn to do other bits like the comps i have for it lol.

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

lacquer was mixed in?!

U sure u didnt use 2k straight colour?! no1 really mixes colour into lacquer to do a respray usual route is either 2k straight colour u mix hardner into or coloured basecoat and then clearcoat........


etch primer btw is what ur supposed to put onto bare metals first as it "eats" into the bare surface then u use whatever 2k primer u want ontop!!

U can if u want to be a cowboy just etch a panel then paint onto it but it has fuck all build to it so no good for filling any inperfections/scratches and wont give u much protection from stonechips etc!!

tejy

iTrader: (1)

ur right mate i just 4get the names of all this and that

it went straight on after sanding down and priming itt no lacquer

Ryan_3

its a solid colour mate. 2K, just the colour hardner and thinner

dingla rs

iTrader: (2)

ull need 1ltr primer .get the hardner with it
1ltr diamond white one the 34 shades they do .solid colour ,ltr hardner an ltr thinners
but if you go to good body shop suppliers they will sort you out what you need

have a go on old panel first

you'l need wet an dry also

vaughant

iTrader: (1)

Hi mate,please don't take this the wrong way but it sounds to me like you've had little or no experience in this.First things first,is your garage realistically going to be near enough dust free before you paint?have you got water to wet the booth floor to prevent the dust blowing up as you paint,this makes a huge difference.you'll need a mixing stick and cups would be handy,all available from the suppliers,sheeting,masking tape,panel wipe,blue cloth(hand wipe stuff),strainers to keep your gun clean,latex gloves and paper suits come in handy as the stuff is really sticky!!after repairs you should prime,allow at least a day for it to dry,spray a really light guide coat of satin black on it which stops you sanding too far and wet flat the primer smooth with 800 paper/water.we tend to use ech primer just before paint to seal in any areas that we may have rubbed back too far literally just before we put the paint on.if your painting diamond White then use two pack paint or "2k" as it's known.you mix this 2:1 and 10% thinners,that's two parts paint to one part hardener and obviously 10% 2k thinners,don't use the cheap stuff I.e gunwash.cover your primed areas first with a few light coats of the paint mix,then when your happy those areas are covered,start on the rest of the parts.think about where to start as well as by the time you've painted one side you may find that by the time you get back to it that panels starting to get "sticky",that's the perfect time to put the next coat on,again smooth even coats etc.if your not going too paint the entire car then you need to find a relativley discreet area to do a blow in.this is where you tie into the existing paintwork to match up with the work you've done,go a bit lighter with the gun at this point and literally dust the paint into the area where they blend,clean your gun out and then lightly blow thinners into the blend areas.this will probably look like a bit of a dry patch later on but just cut that out using g3 by hand and you'll never tell.it's not nearly as easy as it looks but it's not impossible,like you said get a mate who's a painter to do this job and watch and learn then do it yourself at a later date on a proper shitter or something like that just to practice as if you fuck this up it'll really show and you'll be gutted.don't be afraid of getting runs,they'll easily polish out with g3 after 1500 on a rubber block.if you can get the area really hot and keep the heat going while painting that will really help avoid runs.good luck with it all and I look forward to seeing the results!!

vaughant

iTrader: (1)

Fuck,forgot to tell you,just before you actually paint the car,blow dry the car with your trigger half way on the gun to blast any remaining dust off and follow it over with a tack cloth to pick up any dirt,my painter would kill me for not saying that!!

Ryan_3

mate thats exactly what I would tell him. great post

vaughant

iTrader: (1)

Why thankyou very much sir!!if asked I'd be happy to make a full sticky up for anyone interested in doing their own painting as I run my own bodyshop so I've picked up a bit.

R4N SS

iTrader: (6)

do it - would be a great read

i have seen my mate paint loads of cars and always amazed at how much work goes into it