this is my set up... ive had these in my engine for over a year now and had them set at 4degrees advance on the inlet and 8 degrees retarded on the exhaust cam.. are these setting anythink like yours? ive made 443bhp with it this way, but its a bit slugish low down...

my friend reacons i should have the settings something like 2 degrees advance on the inlet and set at 0 on the exhaust?

whats yours set up at?? i just want to impove mine a tad with out taking all the cam covers off, i know its not acurate but i'll get it all set up in a couple of months time.. ps i have a afr gauge and det cans so please save the, your blow your engine comments..

cheers

 

I did have a BD14 inlet and standard exhaust but not sure what they were dialled in at, so completely pointless me replying sorry. Thought it worked very well though and loved the lumpy idle

 

Lumpy Idle Rich ???

I had the same cams, 26 mm inlet ports, T4 turbo and 8.0:1 CR and had a perfect Idle with full lambda emissions control active !

Your cams must have had an agressive overlap !!!

 

I have no idea Si. All i know now is that im running one of Marks mental inlet cams the idle is even more lumpy which is love.

 

the actual figure on the pulley doesnt mean much

 

The best thing would just be doing a(cam) timing swing on the rollers so you could see any effects, each engine will be slightly different in terms of what it likes best.
tabetha

 

Has anyone else found fitting verniers on a cossie to make timing them up a nightmare?

 

when i put a standard one against a vernier 0 degrees is far from standard

 

Every time i have to change a belt

 

how much do people charge to setup cams on the rollers?
is it just an hours labour???

i currently run a bd14in and bd10ex but im thinking of going back to a std ex cam to help lower down power/responce.

would people say i was better going back to a std ex cam or keeping the bd10? (i think most people hate the bd10 ex cam but it was in the engine when i bought it)

 

Bump for the mornin crew.

 

Yeah, I'm going back to a standard ex cam this year,currently running bd16's and its a rite pig off boost. MAHOOOSIVE turbo probly dont help either
Having said that,when its above 4kish

 

you want to use the full lift point to time up the cams.

and verniers std marks are never right you always have to adjust them even to get std figures also the cams are never the same so thats why you use the full lift position to do the timing.

when you spec cams you have to look at the duration aswell as lift. IIRC A BD10 has a lot more duration than a std cam and then a BD14 has less duration but more lift so having a BD10 on the exhaust will make it laggy as the valve is off the seat for a long time.

all IMO

 

i've got bd10s in mine and have found no problems. When i had mixed cams it always sounded rough

 

i know it not 100% acurate but i'm still interested in numbers? ive got piper cams verniors... has anyone found what true number on the pulleys for standard timing?

i thought 0 on the vernior is standard timing, is this not right?

i would he happy to simply try it with standard timing..

 

just looked at mine mate and my ex cam is 2 degress advanced and my inlet is 2 degrees retarded on piper pulleys.
mine is set to standard.

but i would put yours against a standard pulley to see if they line up as they may be different

 

0 is normally std timing BUT that doesn't mean that you actually have std timing because if the head or block have been skimmed (or thicker/thinner head gasket fitted) then this changes it all.

 

when i put my piper verniers on 0 and put a standard pulley over the top of it the timing pointer's are not in the same place

 

I put a set of verniers on a std engine and it was 2` off on both cams.

 

I lined my Kent 5 spoke verniers up with the original pulley keyways, and moved the verniers until the teeth were exactly the same as the STD pulleys in relation to the keyways.

The inlet cam lined up perfectly on 0 degrees, the exhaust pulley was 6 degrees retarded from what I remember. I have a 14 inlet, it's set as STD at the moment so needs dialling in.

 

mine were last dailed in on the dyno packs when it was being mapped. ones set at 0 the other is advanced 2.

 

I don't know how u can dial them in with any accuracy without a r/r or an engine out dyno.

You need to adjust and measure the graph, adjust and measure the graph, adjust and measure the graph.

Good luck doing that with any accuracy anywhere except an engine dyno or a good r/r.

Reading through the topic quickly, I don't think anything else said is much useful advice as each engine is slightly different. Cam optimisation took a t4 500 spec car from 380 ish wheels to somewhere about 430 wheels and it's cams were nothing out of the ordinary in the tuning YB world.

Cheers
RW