Rick

Fully synthetic oil.

Your views please

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

Very Very Thick indeed

Rick

Well, shouldnt it be thinner than a 15 50 when cold, just not thin up as much when hot? Ive got some u see, might try it.

slowpoke

so 10w60 would be good for our cars then ?

Christian and Beccy

iTrader: (14)

If you ask people that really know, they will tell you that 60w is FAR too thick. I have spoken to 2 people involved with Competition engines that recommend a 30w oil. (10w30).

Im not brave enough to try it though.

Rick

Depends on Engine though. Karl specs his Big Boost CVH's with large bearing clearances, as does my local race engine builder. The boost tries to squeeze the oil out of the bearings.

Matt

my views after advice....

dont use fully synthetic oil on a big boost karl built yb

AlexF

you sure..

W = winter ie when the oil is cold

so 60 is thicker than 50

besides all that, why do you want racing oil in a road car?

alex

Rick

Yes im sure. If it's a 60, it wont thin up as much as a 50 does when hot.

Mobil 15 50 is a motorsport oil, and plenty of people use that..... Modern road oils are too thin for older engine designs.

AlexF

no thats not somthign you can tell...

there are three viscosity points oil is measured at... Winter (cold), hot and very very hot... the 1st two are the 20w50 people refer to, the other is not listed in the same way. But it does get listed in a round about way on the back in terms of the specs...


Alex

POPEYE

i use valvoline 5/50,as its always had fully sync in it
but if it was a newly built engine i would be mineral from the start

gtir1281

i use there 10/40 in my gtir have also used it in my cossi and my rs turbos over the last 8 years never had any props with it i will not use any thing els


john

Matt

why ask the questions if you are adamant you know the answers rick lad

is a double std power engine a race engine or not?

what should i use please ?

AndyGranger

Crisp and dry Matthew

Ian M

i tried that once only had it in for 100 mls, it lost pressure too much when really hot. put castrol rs 10 60 in and used it since.

Rick

Alex, if what u were saying is right, then an oil would thicken when hot..

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

Technically it does Rick... get researching

Rick

Lol, here we go

a 10W 40 oil is thin on startup to get to the parts it's needed quickly, and gives the protection of a 40 when hot.

Rick

Oil always thins when it's temperature is increased, ie it's viscostity decreases. A multigrade oil is one which the rate at which it thins at is reduced. Going back to 10W 40, this oil has a base weight of 10, so it when cold it acts as a 10. However, when it is hot, it does not thin as much as a normal 10 weight would. It actually has the same viscostity as a straight 40 would when hot. But, a straight 40 is still thinner when hot, than a 10 is when cold.... The bigger the difference between the two numbers, the less responsive the oil is to a change of temperature.

oilman

In my opinion sae 60 is too thick. Use sae 50 at most. A decent 10w-50 synthetic is a good bet or a fully synthetic 10w-40 or 5w-40.

60 can cause problems through oil drag and extra heat build up due to the thickness causing added friction.

I would not recommend it as a grade for modern cars.

Cheers
Simon

Matt

simon, our cars aint modern

oilman

Well, they're not exactly vintage either

Cheers
Simon

Karl

Oil man,

I think you'll find that being based on a pinto makes the YB vintage since the pinto engine originated in the early 70's. The recommended oil viscosity for this engine in europe is 20w50.

CabrioTurbo

karl dont you allways recomend using a mineral oil in CVH's?
I use 10-50 oil (mineral) in mine at the moment.

AlexF

I'm only quoting what Castrol teach

oilman

It doesn't make the recommendation of higher viscosity fully synthetics wrong.

The fact is they are far more available and affordable these days and are superior lubricants in any car 60's onwards.

Remember a 10w-50 is the same thickness when hot as a 20w-50, it just gives more instant cold start protection.

Cheers
Simon

CabrioTurbo

cant the use of synthetic oils in CVH's cause glazing of the bores.. ive read that before on here im sure it was Karl that said it. hence why i use a mineral oil..

Rick

Well, just put some in, so will watch the temp and pressure gauges to see what's going on. I can get hold of some Valvoline 5W 50, which sounds nice, just wondering if it's a tad too thin for the CVH.

Rick

It prob can, but depends also on the driving stlyle. I recentyl pulled apart a CVH thats done 130k, which has been run on mobil since new, and it's absoloutly mint. No bearing or bore wear, and much less cam wear than i expected.

CabrioTurbo

fair enough.. what 'driving style' would contribute to buggering it?
as i wouldnt mind using some 'propper' oil in mine!

Stavros

So why mineral oil?

Heard that about Rotories but thats it

CabrioTurbo

i dont bloody know.. IM SURE it was Karl that stated that the use use of synthetic oils in RST or the like is not recomended.. i will try and find the post.. sorry in advance if im wrong by the way!

oilman

Oh no my favorite subject!

Two words spring to mind, wives and tales. Apologies to anyone I offend.

There was a problem in the 80's with Diesel engines known as bore polishing and it is well documented but I personally have never seen an engine that has been rum on synthetic oils that has experienced bore glazing.

Yes it is true that running in a new or re-bored engine on synthetics will slow down the process (it will not damage the engine) so mineral oils are preferable during this period but this whole issue is a mystery to me. Has anyone got any pics of bore glazing that they could email me?

I would love to see some and pass them by a major oil company for comment.

Cheers
Simon