ERST not turning over after new engine fitted.
13-01-2010, 10:08 PM
#1
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ERST not turning over after new engine fitted.
IV had a new engine fitted to the RS, it will bump start but not turn over on the ignition.
IT was broken into whilst waiting for the engine to be fitted however the thieves didnt manage to get the car going as no engine was in it etc but they fucked the ignition barrel but other than that no wires where pulled or ransacked as they just tried to start it with a screwdriver.
The garage has replaced the working ignition barrel i supplied them and today i took a new starter motor as they thought this could be the problem because it was getting strong Live but not turning over but the car would bump start.
Anyway its still not turning over, i cant see how its the alarm because it will bump start/unlock/arm etc.
Has anybody got any idea what it could be??
cheers.
IT was broken into whilst waiting for the engine to be fitted however the thieves didnt manage to get the car going as no engine was in it etc but they fucked the ignition barrel but other than that no wires where pulled or ransacked as they just tried to start it with a screwdriver.
The garage has replaced the working ignition barrel i supplied them and today i took a new starter motor as they thought this could be the problem because it was getting strong Live but not turning over but the car would bump start.
Anyway its still not turning over, i cant see how its the alarm because it will bump start/unlock/arm etc.
Has anybody got any idea what it could be??
cheers.
13-01-2010, 10:17 PM
#4
You need to start with some basic checks first like checking to see if you have a live feed to starter solenoid wire, then checking the main cable from the battery to the starter and checking all earths.
Does it make a sound when you turn the key?
If you get a feed down the solenoid wire but still nothing happening (solenoid should click loudly at very least), it doesn't mean that all is well the wiring as you may have high resistance. Try putting a seperate live feed to the solenoid and see what happens.
Does it make a sound when you turn the key?
If you get a feed down the solenoid wire but still nothing happening (solenoid should click loudly at very least), it doesn't mean that all is well the wiring as you may have high resistance. Try putting a seperate live feed to the solenoid and see what happens.
13-01-2010, 10:22 PM
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Whats the exciter wire guys?
The guy whos fitted the engine has just told me that the starter is getting a strong live to it but now has said it could be the wiring somewhere from the ignition barrel but idont see how it was all fine when it went in and i know it was broken into and messed up a little but nothing much at all i checked it myself - no wires where stripped or ripped from anything!
The guy whos fitted the engine has just told me that the starter is getting a strong live to it but now has said it could be the wiring somewhere from the ignition barrel but idont see how it was all fine when it went in and i know it was broken into and messed up a little but nothing much at all i checked it myself - no wires where stripped or ripped from anything!
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13-01-2010, 10:39 PM
#9
The main one is the one straight from the battery, the smaller one is the solenoid feed (exciter) wire.
As I said before, just checking to see if you have a voltage there doesn't guarantee that cable is good. If the solenoid wire checks out to be ok and the starter is clicking away, we can rule that out. You then need to check the main cables for voltage drop. You do this by connecting a voltmeter to the live terminal of the battery and the main live on the starter. Crank over the engine and you should see a value of ideally no more than 0.5 volts. Any more than that suggests a cable issue or a starter issue. Check the earth also using the same method by connecting the voltmeter to the battery negative terminal and the engine or gearbox. Again any more than 0.5v reading suggests an earth problem (not uncommon on old cars).
As I said before, just checking to see if you have a voltage there doesn't guarantee that cable is good. If the solenoid wire checks out to be ok and the starter is clicking away, we can rule that out. You then need to check the main cables for voltage drop. You do this by connecting a voltmeter to the live terminal of the battery and the main live on the starter. Crank over the engine and you should see a value of ideally no more than 0.5 volts. Any more than that suggests a cable issue or a starter issue. Check the earth also using the same method by connecting the voltmeter to the battery negative terminal and the engine or gearbox. Again any more than 0.5v reading suggests an earth problem (not uncommon on old cars).
Last edited by Gazzonator; 13-01-2010 at 10:43 PM.
13-01-2010, 10:43 PM
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Whats the exciter wire guys?
The guy whos fitted the engine has just told me that the starter is getting a strong live to it but now has said it could be the wiring somewhere from the ignition barrel but idont see how it was all fine when it went in and i know it was broken into and messed up a little but nothing much at all i checked it myself - no wires where stripped or ripped from anything!
The guy whos fitted the engine has just told me that the starter is getting a strong live to it but now has said it could be the wiring somewhere from the ignition barrel but idont see how it was all fine when it went in and i know it was broken into and messed up a little but nothing much at all i checked it myself - no wires where stripped or ripped from anything!
, i changed my engine and wouldnt start after, fuel pump relay was fucked, it was perfectly fine before
, sounds like a wiring problem to the starter as stated above.
13-01-2010, 11:03 PM
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I want to mate i do, iv been told now that he didnt use the newn he rebuilt the one that was fucked because there wasnt much wrong with it but that still makes no sense to me really cause i supplied a new working ignition barrel with steering lock to be fitted cause the others where fucked.
13-01-2010, 11:08 PM
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i know mate, im getting really fucked off now because what should have been simple is starting to snowball.
Neal
right so you took the pieces out of the newn to put into the old one?
23:54Nick
no i just got the barrel back together with switch so i can use it to try and start the car
from what i can gather hes managed to get the old ignition barrel back together instead of fitting the new one i supplied?
Neal
right so you took the pieces out of the newn to put into the old one?
23:54Nick
no i just got the barrel back together with switch so i can use it to try and start the car
from what i can gather hes managed to get the old ignition barrel back together instead of fitting the new one i supplied?
13-01-2010, 11:24 PM
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I cant, i wanted the new working barrel i supplied fitted in place of the old one because it also had a working steering lock on that the thieves had fucked on mine aswell as the ignition barrel.
I thought it would make sense to fit what i supplied as it was all working etc.
I thought it would make sense to fit what i supplied as it was all working etc.
14-01-2010, 07:02 PM
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ok Q..
Is Ł340 expensive to have removed the dud engine and fit the other engine? nothing else needed doing besides this, the car was broken into whilst he left it outside his unit thats why it needed the new barrel.
HE said he wouldnt use old oil so he supplied fully synth oil a filter and some coolant at most say Ł60 in parts? i didnt ask for that to be done either. So the rest is labour charges to remove one block and fit the other.
Does that seem expensive?
Is Ł340 expensive to have removed the dud engine and fit the other engine? nothing else needed doing besides this, the car was broken into whilst he left it outside his unit thats why it needed the new barrel.
HE said he wouldnt use old oil so he supplied fully synth oil a filter and some coolant at most say Ł60 in parts? i didnt ask for that to be done either. So the rest is labour charges to remove one block and fit the other.
Does that seem expensive?
14-01-2010, 07:33 PM
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I told ya nealo 3 months ago id have charged 100 quid plus parts.
I changed a landrover 90 tdi engine a month ago outside freezin cold and charged 175 quid only as i had to change a load of stuff from old engine to the new.
Oh and i did it in a day and half taking my time having plenty of brews!
I changed a landrover 90 tdi engine a month ago outside freezin cold and charged 175 quid only as i had to change a load of stuff from old engine to the new.
Oh and i did it in a day and half taking my time having plenty of brews!
Last edited by kidsRS; 14-01-2010 at 07:34 PM.
14-01-2010, 07:44 PM
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I told ya nealo 3 months ago id have charged 100 quid plus parts.
I changed a landrover 90 tdi engine a month ago outside freezin cold and charged 175 quid only as i had to change a load of stuff from old engine to the new.
Oh and i did it in a day and half taking my time having plenty of brews!
I changed a landrover 90 tdi engine a month ago outside freezin cold and charged 175 quid only as i had to change a load of stuff from old engine to the new.
Oh and i did it in a day and half taking my time having plenty of brews!
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