Are these afr readings ok?
#1
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Are these afr readings ok?
ive just fitted a stack afr gauge heres my finding.. on my escos
idle 14.6 afr
0.5-0.7bar boost 14.6 afr still??
1bar boost 12.8 afr
2.0 to 2.2bar 11.6 afr
it drives fine but when im just building up abit of speed using a little bit boost the afr seems abit week but i dont know much about this sort of thing..
cheers merry christmas
idle 14.6 afr
0.5-0.7bar boost 14.6 afr still??
1bar boost 12.8 afr
2.0 to 2.2bar 11.6 afr
it drives fine but when im just building up abit of speed using a little bit boost the afr seems abit week but i dont know much about this sort of thing..
cheers merry christmas
Last edited by dom123; 25-12-2009 at 10:31 AM.
#3
Made in Scotland
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Should the AFR not be a very similar shape to the boost curve, meaning that once in positive boost, the AFR should richen up to suit... so from my limited understanding of this subject, under 1bar boost, you're actually running leaner than you should be going by those numbers?? I think that the numbers at 1bar and over look reasonable and in the correct ballpark from what I understand and have read about.. however, being in the correct ballpark isn't quite as accurate as it needs to be!!
Who mapped the car?? Can you give them a wee email or call to discuss it??
Cheers,
Grant
Who mapped the car?? Can you give them a wee email or call to discuss it??
Cheers,
Grant
#5
Advanced PassionFord User
i thought that looks right , stoichiometic value is 14.7 for the mass of air to 1 part fuel , so at idle your about spot on, 0.5 to 0.7 maybe a little lean then 1 bar and 2 bar looks spot on as anything lower than 14.7 to 1 is classed as a rich mixture and anything over is a lean mixture so thats the mapper adding the extra fuel for the boost . iam sure this is right but anyone can correct me if iam wrong
i know my engine was on the dyno but every step of boost on the map the afr was 12.3/12.4 even upto 30 psi
hope this helps
cheers paul
i know my engine was on the dyno but every step of boost on the map the afr was 12.3/12.4 even upto 30 psi
hope this helps
cheers paul
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#9
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ive just fitted a stack afr gauge heres my finding.. on my escos
idle 14.6 afr
0.5-0.7bar boost 14.6 afr still??
1bar boost 12.8 afr
2.0 to 2.2bar 11.6 afr
it drives fine but when im just building up abit of speed using a little bit boost the afr seems abit week but i dont know much about this sort of thing..
cheers merry christmas
idle 14.6 afr
0.5-0.7bar boost 14.6 afr still??
1bar boost 12.8 afr
2.0 to 2.2bar 11.6 afr
it drives fine but when im just building up abit of speed using a little bit boost the afr seems abit week but i dont know much about this sort of thing..
cheers merry christmas
Not struck on the stack its a bit clunky on its reading in my testing and at on point it shows 10.5 when my meter shows 11.8,
So I would recomend taking it to a pro before you run it to hard and check for dett and fueling with a meter they trust.
Mark
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#13
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basically i fitted a different ecu and had no map so i called msd and stu said he didnt have a map for my car but he could make one for me, so i bought this from him, got it and set the co etc cold starts are fine, hot starts are fine. i put it on a dyno and made 443bhp on a t38 about a year ago! mad that he made it!! the dyno guy said it was abit rich so it fine to drive..
but as ive been changing bits over the past year since that r&r day eg.. ive fitted a 2wd exhaust manifold and small turbo inlet, it didnt drive very well, so i just took it up the road and kept adjusting the co screw untill it felt nice to drive again..
drove it about another month giving it shit but never holding past 5k for more a couple of seconds.. had no problems
just bought a stack gauge and there the readings i found.
i dont really want to rush it down to a dyno just yet as i want to be sure this is the spec i want.. bear in mind my escos is my only car and daily driver.. so since ive done the ecu screw ive done 5kmiles easy! so i'm not overly worried about it poping as i reacon the fueling must prity good....
shall i just richen up the co2 screw a tad to make it richer at 0.5 bar boost or turn the fuel pressure up a tad? i know it will be richer all the way through but if i get 0.5 boost in the 13's and flat out 11.0 surely it will be a tad better in the mean time..
please save the comments about the risks etc i read it all before.... this is my 3rd year of owning cossies and i use them everyday and never had a engine problem... sorry to say that just dont want the insults..
cheers i will get it mapped feb march time..
but as ive been changing bits over the past year since that r&r day eg.. ive fitted a 2wd exhaust manifold and small turbo inlet, it didnt drive very well, so i just took it up the road and kept adjusting the co screw untill it felt nice to drive again..
drove it about another month giving it shit but never holding past 5k for more a couple of seconds.. had no problems
just bought a stack gauge and there the readings i found.
i dont really want to rush it down to a dyno just yet as i want to be sure this is the spec i want.. bear in mind my escos is my only car and daily driver.. so since ive done the ecu screw ive done 5kmiles easy! so i'm not overly worried about it poping as i reacon the fueling must prity good....
shall i just richen up the co2 screw a tad to make it richer at 0.5 bar boost or turn the fuel pressure up a tad? i know it will be richer all the way through but if i get 0.5 boost in the 13's and flat out 11.0 surely it will be a tad better in the mean time..
please save the comments about the risks etc i read it all before.... this is my 3rd year of owning cossies and i use them everyday and never had a engine problem... sorry to say that just dont want the insults..
cheers i will get it mapped feb march time..
Last edited by dom123; 26-12-2009 at 10:33 AM.
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the Durham rsoc did a R/R day in june and about 5 cars had just been "live mapped" and all of there print outs showed doddgy AFR readings (10's).......i'd trust a mappers gear over anything else........jmo.....
#17
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Different engines do respond to different AFRs
Only way to really know if they are right is with a rolling road and an EGT probe, to make sure they arent losing your power or generating too much heat.
They dont look too bad though at first glance if they are accurate in the first place (cheap gauges are a guide only really, best checked out on something like a dyno dynamics)
Only way to really know if they are right is with a rolling road and an EGT probe, to make sure they arent losing your power or generating too much heat.
They dont look too bad though at first glance if they are accurate in the first place (cheap gauges are a guide only really, best checked out on something like a dyno dynamics)
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