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My nova: 1.55 bar = 457bhp, 2.1 bar = update on page 5

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Old 30-01-2010, 07:17 PM
  #201  
mrjenrst
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Originally Posted by Chip
Yeah its a real shame.

What I need to do now, is decide what to do next with the engine, wether I just chalk this one up as me getting unucky picking a secondhand block that had an existing defect from manufacture or wether this is going to be indicative of the realistic limits for these engines for sustained use.
TBH I could happily turn the power back down to 1.5 bar and it still be brilliant fun on track with only the 450bhp it had before, so maybe thats the way I should be going, as ultimately the extra power wouldnt have been of any real benefit to me, and would have put massive strain on the box etc.

Sadly there are very few people using these engines at big power (ie 500+) in the world for anything other than drag racing, so Ive no other examples to look at to see if its a freak occurance the block crack with that sort of power for sustained use, or if its just going to keep happening.
Tbh mate the only way you'd know if it was a defect in the block or its at its limits is to do it again other wise would it not cause a slight feeling of regret you didnt try it again?
Old 30-01-2010, 07:19 PM
  #202  
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I am gutted for you mate hope you get it sorted soon
Old 30-01-2010, 07:22 PM
  #203  
Chip
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Originally Posted by mrjenrst
Tbh mate the only way you'd know if it was a defect in the block or its at its limits is to do it again other wise would it not cause a slight feeling of regret you didnt try it again?
Of course, I really want to know what power it was making too, so would love to build another one exactly the same and give it another go just purely to satisfy curiousity.
But thats going to be a very expensive curiousity if it keeps doing this potentially, not just in terms of cash (probably only cost me a grand or so to get it back together again realistically) but in terms of time that I am really short of too.

Developing blocks is very expensive, with the YB people like mountune have done all the hard work already, with this block, no one really has, and for an individual to do so could end up being a nearly bottomless pit to throw time and money at!

I think I'm more likely to just accept that I know that the 457bhp boost level seemed fine for the block, and it went very very well at that level anyway, and just go for that and stop there if I put it back together exactly the same again.
I have no real use for anymore power than that on a racetrack anyway in a relatively light 2wd car TBH mate, so I would be chasing numbers without really having any purpose besides curiousity.

Last edited by Chip; 30-01-2010 at 07:23 PM.
Old 30-01-2010, 07:29 PM
  #204  
mrjenrst
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i see what you mean chip. What power are these running in all out drag compared to a road/track car?
Old 30-01-2010, 07:31 PM
  #205  
Chip
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Originally Posted by mrjenrst
i see what you mean chip. What power are these running in all out drag compared to a road/track car?
In this country, there are a couple of them running around the same power I was when it failed (ie in the 500-550 ballpark)
Abroad people are claiming far more, but some of them arent using the waterways with water anymore, which is fine in dragracing to fill them with resin to strengthen it, but no use in a track car which needs to do 20 mins of non stop abuse at a time, not just 8 seconds or whatever.
Old 30-01-2010, 07:32 PM
  #206  
Rick
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Sad news mate. You could get it linered but is it worth it? I hope my ST170 bottom end can take the compression pressure.
Old 30-01-2010, 07:37 PM
  #207  
mrjenrst
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end of the day a 450 bhp nova is fucking mental anyway
As you said its fast and if its reliable what more can you want
Old 30-01-2010, 07:42 PM
  #208  
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gutted for you chip i can only imagine what it was like i know that one i posted up is silly fast at 300bhp lol. hope you get it sorted fella one way or another
Old 30-01-2010, 07:43 PM
  #209  
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big shame m8
if it was me i would put a block back in it.
just for now, run it at 1.5 bar, have some great fun for this season, then get it on the rollers at the end of the season wack the boost up to 2+ and see what see what it does.
then for me myself i would put a gt3076 on it and limit power to 480ish really responsive and hopefully reliable.
Old 30-01-2010, 07:44 PM
  #210  
Chip
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Originally Posted by Rick
Sad news mate. You could get it linered but is it worth it? I hope my ST170 bottom end can take the compression pressure.
I think if I did get it linered, I would get some custom pistons and go down in bore size to 85mm or something possibly (standard is 86mm, mine was at 86.75) so that I could keep the most amount of metal in the block in doing so.

Ultimately though, I suspect that I just need to decide that based on having now driven my car with engines making roughly
150
280
330
400
450
500+


That the right amount of power for it is probably around the 400-450 mark and just go down to a smaller turbo which means that I can also have massively improved spool over what I get on the GT35R at the moment!
Old 30-01-2010, 07:45 PM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by stu21t
big shame m8
if it was me i would put a block back in it.
just for now, run it at 1.5 bar, have some great fun for this season, then get it on the rollers at the end of the season wack the boost up to 2+ and see what see what it does.
then for me myself i would put a gt3076 on it and limit power to 480ish really responsive and hopefully reliable.
If ive got a fully working engine that Ive built back up and intend to run at the 400-450 mark (I see no point really in straining the gearbox at 480 when its more than I feel I have a use for) there is little point in me putting it on the rollers at 2 bar and probably kill it, just to get a figure to brag about down the pub and never use, lol
Old 30-01-2010, 07:50 PM
  #212  
Ginger Will
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Hope you get it sorted. I would build it with less power and better spool and use it.
Old 30-01-2010, 08:03 PM
  #213  
Rick
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1.5 bar on a GT3076R is what you want
Old 30-01-2010, 08:04 PM
  #214  
Red16
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Gutted about the crack in the block, good luck with the new engine whatever it may be

Whats with all the negative tags?
Old 30-01-2010, 08:07 PM
  #215  
CossieRich
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Chippa,

Sorry to hear this mate. Stick to the yellow beast and make that go faster
Old 30-01-2010, 08:10 PM
  #216  
T3ORA
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Originally Posted by CossieRich

Stick to the yellow beast and make that go faster

i with you on that one
Old 30-01-2010, 08:18 PM
  #217  
Chip
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Originally Posted by Rick
1.5 bar on a GT3076R is what you want
Yeah I think ultimately thats the right place for it to be, which would be 450 or so sort of ball park and a much bigger useable rev range (I would expect it to work well 4K-8K, versus 5K-8K now)

Thats what I said I was going to do after the last rolling road day funnily enough, to settle on the power I had, and go down a turbo size, but then temptation got the better of me and I just had to find out what it could do


Think for this year, I'll just chuck a standard LET engine in it, with my inlet and exhaust etc, and run a very gay 1 bar of boost which will be about 330-350bhp or so.
Still enough to be fun on a trackday, even if it will feel very slow to start with now that Im used to 500 odd in it, lol
Old 30-01-2010, 08:31 PM
  #218  
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Bit of a shame it gave in as i would of liked to have seen the figures. I hope mine doesnt go down the same route.... i'm pretty sure it wont though.
Old 30-01-2010, 08:38 PM
  #219  
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Originally Posted by Rs1
Bit of a shame it gave in as i would of liked to have seen the figures. I hope mine doesnt go down the same route.... i'm pretty sure it wont though.
If you are going for similar power, and planning to have it under loads for long periods, then its certainly a realistic concern to have, if you are running less power though im sure it will be fine, Rob's has taken a monstrous beating at 400bhp or so, likewise if you want this sort of power but just for short bursts drag racing, im sure it will last ages.
Old 30-01-2010, 08:44 PM
  #220  
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I know your a vaux man but why not chuck a vag 1.8 20vt in there? Will make the same if not more power safely???
Old 30-01-2010, 08:46 PM
  #221  
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PS

Annoyingly, its not like I didnt do my homework on the block first, this is one that I used to insure that a standard casting had uniform wall thickness, so its not even like I just went into it blind, lol

I overbored it again and again and again, until it broke through, so that I could check where best to centralise the bore (sometimes in the past I have found engines can be overbored offcentre to end up with a better thickness of wall on the weaker side)

DSC00018.jpg?t=1264887882

As you can see from where it has broken through in multiple places at once, the standard block is actually very good uniformity of wall thickness on the standard bore centre on these engines.

So I had no reason to suspect I was going to have this problem particuarly.
Old 30-01-2010, 08:48 PM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by TT300
I know your a vaux man but why not chuck a vag 1.8 20vt in there? Will make the same if not more power safely???
If I go to a different engine it will be a 2.0 saab lump

Miles stronger than the vag 1.8 or the vauxhall 2.0

And its a direct fit straight onto my gearbox, although would need other adaptations of course.
Old 30-01-2010, 08:59 PM
  #223  
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cant you just get the block sleeved like on the cossies so you can run 2 bar safe,as its only the boost thats caused the problem
Old 30-01-2010, 09:00 PM
  #224  
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Originally Posted by turnover
cant you just get the block sleeved like on the cossies so you can run 2 bar safe,as its only the boost thats caused the problem
The bores are physically closer together, so ive just got less strength in the block in the first place, and less room for liners

Its possible though, but would probably take a few iterations to get right, which just isnt something I have the time/money for, i'd be better just swapping to the saab block, which is monstrously strong anyway.
Old 30-01-2010, 09:01 PM
  #225  
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Originally Posted by Chip
If you are going for similar power, and planning to have it under loads for long periods, then its certainly a realistic concern to have, if you are running less power though im sure it will be fine, Rob's has taken a monstrous beating at 400bhp or so, likewise if you want this sort of power but just for short bursts drag racing, im sure it will last ages.
Similar power.....er sort of, i'm really looking for mine to clear 500 on 1.5 bar and breach 600 before i run out of boost. It'll certainly see some abuse but ive been a bit more careful with bore size for the exact reason yours has failed.
Old 30-01-2010, 09:03 PM
  #226  
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Originally Posted by Rs1
Similar power.....er sort of, i'm really looking for mine to clear 500 on 1.5 bar and breach 600 before i run out of boost. It'll certainly see some abuse but ive been a bit more careful with bore size for the exact reason yours has failed.
My bore is only 15 thousanths of an inch thinner walls than standard, so unless you have sleeved your downwards, you wont have a significantly thicker bore wall. What diameter are your pistons?

If yours is going in a lightweight FWD nova, then it will never see the loads that mine did, so that may help you

Last edited by Chip; 30-01-2010 at 09:04 PM.
Old 30-01-2010, 09:08 PM
  #227  
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I've mapped a few of these with 500+bhp. Well, same couple of cars but MANY engine/turbo/cam etc etc specs.

Never had a block failure. I've had block failures in the past though, (a honda and Z20let) have you any pictures of the failure. Where the crack is sometimes helps to tell whats happened. DET can double PCP's as you know, did you run a lot of advance? Bad fuel if its been sat etc etc. I suspect if none of the above it was just a bad block. Most of the above car's have done top speed runs, lots of hard road and track use. Visually the C20 looks stronger than the Z, and a LOT stronger than the honda, both of these were making pretty big power to fail.

As for going smaller turbo, remember torque/cylinder pressures can be just as high, if your going to crack the block its at the point of peak torque (unless you done something wrong on the map) a gt30 might increase cylinder pressures lower in the RPM range.

Lastly, if you cracked the block and didn't blow the rad/hoses to bits i'd guess it could have done it when cooling down/driving slowly. What was the p2w clearance? I'd say you was unlucky.
Old 30-01-2010, 10:15 PM
  #228  
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Originally Posted by Chip
Well, Ive been out today in the nova, with the boost wound up to finish off the mapping and see how it went in preperation for going back onto the rollers for a final power figure next saturday when im meant to be renting the rollers again at mtech.

Have increased boost from the 1.55 bar to 2.1 bar, and fuck me it was going well, in fact so much so that there is NO way I would ever want to use it like that on track anywhere other than a bloody long straight (it was a big dual carriageway I was using it on and even there it felt fast!)

Came back home after a really good session out just enjoying driving it on a dry day at last, its handling SO much better now, ive altered the front suspension to give me more caster which seems to have worked well, and I was just generally over the moon with it.

When I left it idling to cool down though, I noticed that there was a bit of steam coming out of the exhaust, which was obviously a very worrying sign.
Compression tested it, and 2/3/4 were all perfectly on 11, exactly where they always are, but number one was up on 13, so I feared it had done the head gasket.
Me and gary ripped it apart figuring that if we could get it apart today, get my old man to get the head skimmed in the week and get a new gasket off steve we could get it all back together on friday ready for the rollers on saturday.

The head gasket looked mint though, no signs of any problems at all, so I started inspecting the head very closely, again no signs of any problems, so I finally turned my attention to the block, the mating face looks perfect, but when I wound that cylinder number 1's piston down the bore and cleaned the bore off very carefully, I can just make out a slightly darker coloured wiggly very feint line about an inch long, which can only be one thing, a crack!

Game over for me for a while until I decide what to do, no point just rebuilding it exactly the same as obviously I am almost certainly going to run into the problem again on another block if I start using it as hard.

Im not aware of anyone using one of these engines for anything other than short bursts drag racing at this sort of power level (must have been well over 500 judging by how much faster it was on the 2.1 bar setting than on the 1.55 bar setting that made 457bhp) so I need to decide if perhaps I need to be using a different engine instead to get this power, or accepting running less power to prevent me killing another block.

VERY bad day sadly!

Looks like the snotty old clio is going to have to get dragged back out for bedford on the 20th now.

Might see about just putting a standard bottom end into the nova and just run at a bar of boost or something in order to just get it out and get some seat time so I can work a bit more on the handling.

Will have a go at getting a picture of the crack, but TBH its just such a tiny little line I suspect I wont be able to get the camera to pick it up even on the macro setting.
its a shame that you are the only bloke running that sort of power for long periods, nobody really knows the limits. Trial and error until you find a level of tune which is reliable

is it possible that bore was already weak before you even started? could you consider using nikasil liners, or are they to expensive?

all the best with it
Old 30-01-2010, 10:27 PM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by T3ORA
gutted for you

but like you said know one has push a let that far

actually thats not correct
Old 30-01-2010, 11:00 PM
  #230  
Chip
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Originally Posted by RickyLee53
Never had a block failure. I've had block failures in the past though, (a honda and Z20let) have you any pictures of the failure.
Where the crack is sometimes helps to tell whats happened.
Not got a picture, its about half an inch or an inch down the bore that it starts though (c20let is closed deck not like the z20let)

Originally Posted by RickyLee53
DET can double PCP's as you know, did you run a lot of advance? Bad fuel if its been sat etc etc.
Was running 8 degrees of advance, and fresh optimax running down in the 10s AFR, I hadnt got to the stage of advancing and leaning it yet, so I dont believe it was anywhere near DET, also the head is totally unmarked which isnt indicative of bore breaking DET either.


I suspect if none of the above it was just a bad block.
Perfectly possible, as mentioned previously its possible its not indicative of what other c20let blocks will do, it might have once had no antifreeze in it 10 years ago and frozen up and put a stress fracture in the back edge of the water jacket or similar.


Visually the C20 looks stronger than the Z, and a LOT stronger than the honda, both of these were making pretty big power to fail.
Top of the block appears stronger (if this was a Z it would have cracked right up to the mating face probably) but the bottom appears weaker (no girdle)


As for going smaller turbo, remember torque/cylinder pressures can be just as high, if your going to crack the block its at the point of peak torque (unless you done something wrong on the map) a gt30 might increase cylinder pressures lower in the RPM range.
[quote]Lastly, if you cracked the block and didn't blow the rad/hoses to bits i'd guess it could have done it when cooling down/driving slowly.
What was the p2w clearance? I'd say you was unlucky.
Its pushed a little water out of one of the joints in a hose at the front, (there is water sat on top of the petrol tank) not actually split though, I guess if there wasnt perfect seal this has let the pressure off, its lost very little water though, not even a litre I should think.
It was still running perfectly, absolutely no hint from the way it sounded on idle or anything, the moisture in the exhaust was the only clue at all, so I think I was very lucky to catch it straight away TBH, few more hard miles and I could have been a lot less lucky.
4.5 thou piston to bore clearance, it was always intended for big boost and some nitrous as well so I was fairly generous on the clearance.
Old 30-01-2010, 11:02 PM
  #231  
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Originally Posted by LHD220Turbo
is it possible that bore was already weak before you even started?
Very possible, its a 20 year old block at the end of the day, with multiple previous owners etc

could you consider using nikasil liners, or are they to expensive?
Its a possibility, likely to be pretty expensive if there arent any already specced and tested etc


all the best with it
Thanks
Old 30-01-2010, 11:39 PM
  #232  
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sorry to hear the bad news chip

what was the spec of the engine ?

was it std compression with rods pistons ported head?

and good luck with the new engine build mate
Old 30-01-2010, 11:47 PM
  #233  
Chip
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Originally Posted by mrviper
sorry to hear the bad news chip

what was the spec of the engine ?

was it std compression with rods pistons ported head?

and good luck with the new engine build mate


Engine Bottom End:
C20XE block
Line Bored
Sump surface machined flat
Head mating surface machined perfectly parrellel to bearing tunnel
Bores exactly perpendicular to bearing tunnel
Block stress releived by hand to remove casting marks and other stress raisers
ARP mains
ARP headstuds
ARP2000 rod bolts
Steel XEV crank
Arrow Conrods
Arias Pistons, 8.2:1
Oil Squirters



Cylinder Head:
Coscast casting
Neil Roper Developments port bored inlets
Neil Roper Developments port bored exhausts
Neil Roper Developments hand finished inlets
Neil Roper Developments hand finished exhausts
Piper double valve springs
Solid lifters
+1mm 214n stainless exhaust valves with stelite seats
+1mm 214n wasted stem stainless inlet valves
Cometic 1.9mm gasket



Gearbox
VX220 Turbo F23 gearbox
Quaiffe ATB diff
Twin plate paddle clutch
Lightweight flywheel



Inlet
SBD/Jenvey throttle body manifold
Jenvey throttle body spacers, 50mm
Custom made inlet adapter plate
19mm ally trumpets
RS200 inlet plenum
Vectra V6 64mm throttle body
2.5" ally inlet piping
silicon hoses and joiners



Turbo
GT35R Garrett
Tial 38mm wastegate
Earls filter
Braided feed line with inline flow restrictor

Exhaust
Garage19 manifold to my specs
Garage19 produced exhaust to my specs
Garage19 wastegate pipework to my specs
Steel exhaust gasket

Ignition system:
NGK Iridium plugs
Nologoy hotwire leads
Coilpack conversion
Autronic SM4 engine management

Last edited by Chip; 30-01-2010 at 11:48 PM.
Old 31-01-2010, 12:05 AM
  #234  
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bloody hell you dont do things by half do you :cry

goes to show what a sorted head can do! and a big turbo

what are your plans with the saab engine ?
same spec but with more boost?
can you salvage may parts to use on the next engine?

i cant think of any more stupid questions

Last edited by mrviper; 31-01-2010 at 12:08 AM.
Old 31-01-2010, 12:12 AM
  #235  
Chip
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Originally Posted by mrviper
bloody hell you dont do things by half do you :cry
It was a pretty comprehensive build, about the only thing not upgraded much was the block, typical eh? lol


goes to show what a sorted head can do! and a big turbo
TBH it needs a smaller turbo really, if im going to keep the power back down at 450ish next time if I go LET again


what are your plans with the saab engine ?
If I go down that route, it will be a case of fit a totally standard engine, bolt a big turbo on, remap it, and whatever it makes, it makes, then that way if it dies I know its just a few hundred quid and a couple of afternoons to swap another one in again.

can you salvage may parts to use on the next engine?
Everything mate, nothing other than the block has any sign of damage at all, although ive also got an Arrow crank as well now that I hadnt got round to fitting yet so if i fit that i might go dry sump too, as it will see me safe to 9Krpm or so then.
If I do that, it will be to go into my mini though, so will need different manifolds too, not really sure on that yet though, might got ST185 GT4 engine instead, will decide nearer the time I guess

i cant think of any more stupid questions
Old 31-01-2010, 02:54 PM
  #236  
andy@amt
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Chip the block must be a old one as i have built no end over 500bhp and in all the years doing them never seen it happen before the cranks move about abit which causes the block to crack down below but thats at 9000rpm.
Old 31-01-2010, 03:12 PM
  #237  
Chip
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Was a fairly early XE, so definately an old block mate, trouble is of course, for all I know at some point a previous owner ran it without proper antifreeze or similar.
Old 31-01-2010, 09:46 PM
  #238  
RickDraper
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TBH its hardly ground breaking. You broke a block, not epic failure. Countless other people around the world are claiming 500+ from a unproven RR'd let...

Its not much cash to rebuild it and if you have not got the time farm it out to steve, he could probably rebuild it totally for under £2k.
Old 31-01-2010, 10:18 PM
  #239  
RickyLee53
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[QUOTE=Chip;4690209] 1)Not got a picture, its about half an inch or an inch down the bore that it starts though (c20let is closed deck not like the z20let)


2)Was running 8 degrees of advance, and fresh optimax running down in the 10s AFR, I hadnt got to the stage of advancing and leaning it yet, so I dont believe it was anywhere near DET, also the head is totally unmarked which isnt indicative of bore breaking DET either.




3)Perfectly possible, as mentioned previously its possible its not indicative of what other c20let blocks will do, it might have once had no antifreeze in it 10 years ago and frozen up and put a stress fracture in the back edge of the water jacket or similar.



4)Top of the block appears stronger (if this was a Z it would have cracked right up to the mating face probably) but the bottom appears weaker (no girdle)




5)Lastly, if you cracked the block and didn't blow the rad/hoses to bits i'd guess it could have done it when cooling down/driving slowly.
Its pushed a little water out of one of the joints in a hose at the front, (there is water sat on top of the petrol tank) not actually split though, I guess if there wasnt perfect seal this has let the pressure off, its lost very little water though, not even a litre I should think.
It was still running perfectly, absolutely no hint from the way it sounded on idle or anything, the moisture in the exhaust was the only clue at all, so I think I was very lucky to catch it straight away TBH, few more hard miles and I could have been a lot less lucky.
4.5 thou piston to bore clearance, it was always intended for big boost and some nitrous as well so I was fairly generous on the clearance.
I've numbered the quote so I can add reply.

1) Thats probably what 40 degrees past TDC then, highly unlikely its DET.
2) As above.
3) Possibly, I don't think i'd build another engine and worry about it.
4) Yes, the 1 that failed on us at probably 520hp blew the whole cylinder wall out, highly likely it cracked, pulled some water in and hydrolocked.
5) Yes probably more luck/quick to diagnose a problem etc. I reckon it probably cracked when running a full chat on the last pull or something. The crack worsened as it cooled and it obviously pulled some water in when cranking it over.
Old 01-02-2010, 06:52 AM
  #240  
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sorry to hear this Chip, interesting about the Saab engine though, is that a later Saab/Vauxhall 2 litre or the old Saab/Triumph slant 4?


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