Sapphire Cosworth ABS Query
26-08-2009, 07:19 AM
#1
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Sapphire Cosworth ABS Query
Quick question for you - i might be starting a restoration job on my 2wd sapphire soon. Amongst other things, i want to get rid of the ABS system as i never found it to be much cop to be honest, its noisy, cuts in too early and probably weighs quite a bit too.
So if i do get rid of it, is it as simple as just getting rid of all the sensors and wiring, cutting the ABS loom out of wherever it joins into the main loom and then get rid of the heavy noisy box of tricks under the bonnet where all the pipes go ?
Im guessing that its probably not as simple as that but surely it cant be that hard ?
What do you think ?
So if i do get rid of it, is it as simple as just getting rid of all the sensors and wiring, cutting the ABS loom out of wherever it joins into the main loom and then get rid of the heavy noisy box of tricks under the bonnet where all the pipes go ?
Im guessing that its probably not as simple as that but surely it cant be that hard ?
What do you think ?
26-08-2009, 12:24 PM
#9
Correct.
Put a switch in one of the wires on the two-connector plug on top of the fluid reservoir.
If your anti-lock is cutting in before you're stopping normally (ie, not throwing the anchors out), a wheel sensor is feeding a duff signal to the ABS ECU. The anti-lock cuts in when a wheel appears to be slowing quicker than the other wheels in the system. This can be caused by a faulty sensor, sensor cable, or poorly aligned sensor.
The wheel sensors work just the same way as the Crank Position Sensor - if you pull the CPS too far from the crank pulley, the ECU can't fire the coil because it's received no signal from the CPS to tell it to fire the coil - ABS sensors are exactly the same, if the ABS ECU thinks a wheel has slowed because the signal is lower/weaker than the rest (because a sensor is too far from the teeth in the hub), it does exactly what it's supposed to and cuts the anti-lock in, but 'early'.
And personally, I prefer 160 bar of hydraulic assistance to a vaccuum assisted servo.
Also bear in mind that come MOT time (if it's a road car), the ABS has to be present, and working, at the time of the test, IF the car had it fitted at the factory.
Last edited by cozmeister; 26-08-2009 at 12:28 PM.
26-08-2009, 01:43 PM
#10
Team HOTHOT!
I found with my last cossie the ABS was useless with big brakes - cut in far far too early so I binned it off the quick way - removed the bulb from the dashboard and cut the wires to the sensors - problem cured but not the propper way 
26-08-2009, 02:45 PM
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Correct.
Put a switch in one of the wires on the two-connector plug on top of the fluid reservoir.
If your anti-lock is cutting in before you're stopping normally (ie, not throwing the anchors out), a wheel sensor is feeding a duff signal to the ABS ECU. The anti-lock cuts in when a wheel appears to be slowing quicker than the other wheels in the system. This can be caused by a faulty sensor, sensor cable, or poorly aligned sensor.
The wheel sensors work just the same way as the Crank Position Sensor - if you pull the CPS too far from the crank pulley, the ECU can't fire the coil because it's received no signal from the CPS to tell it to fire the coil - ABS sensors are exactly the same, if the ABS ECU thinks a wheel has slowed because the signal is lower/weaker than the rest (because a sensor is too far from the teeth in the hub), it does exactly what it's supposed to and cuts the anti-lock in, but 'early'.
And personally, I prefer 160 bar of hydraulic assistance to a vaccuum assisted servo.
Also bear in mind that come MOT time (if it's a road car), the ABS has to be present, and working, at the time of the test, IF the car had it fitted at the factory.
Put a switch in one of the wires on the two-connector plug on top of the fluid reservoir.
If your anti-lock is cutting in before you're stopping normally (ie, not throwing the anchors out), a wheel sensor is feeding a duff signal to the ABS ECU. The anti-lock cuts in when a wheel appears to be slowing quicker than the other wheels in the system. This can be caused by a faulty sensor, sensor cable, or poorly aligned sensor.
The wheel sensors work just the same way as the Crank Position Sensor - if you pull the CPS too far from the crank pulley, the ECU can't fire the coil because it's received no signal from the CPS to tell it to fire the coil - ABS sensors are exactly the same, if the ABS ECU thinks a wheel has slowed because the signal is lower/weaker than the rest (because a sensor is too far from the teeth in the hub), it does exactly what it's supposed to and cuts the anti-lock in, but 'early'.
And personally, I prefer 160 bar of hydraulic assistance to a vaccuum assisted servo.
Also bear in mind that come MOT time (if it's a road car), the ABS has to be present, and working, at the time of the test, IF the car had it fitted at the factory.
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