-beefy-

iTrader: (6)

im looking at putting comp struts on my cossie project , for the adjustability

but how do i stand regarding a front arb ?

do you use one , what setup and where from ect ,


much appriceated

beef

paul16v

They replace the roll bar Beefy

joffy

iTrader: (1)

i thought you could run both but the ARB runs forward of the x member, might be wrong, also have been advised not to lose the ARB if its going to be used on the road??

Jon(M600BHP)

I use a bladed arb with compression struts. thx Jon

dojj

iTrader: (3)

if you use comp struts you will either need to run coil overs or very stiff suspension to counter the roll

or invest in a front mounted arb with drop links and stuff to counter the roll

lots of hassle but if you want it to handle then there are other cheaper more basic things you can do

my advice would be to have a short talk with rainbird to see what he suggests, although other suspension type peeps are also available

Jon(M600BHP)

Just looked at some pics of under my car not 100% sure it has got compression struts now?

Jon(M600BHP)

heres the arb

paul16v

Yeh it has Jon that is a compression strut.

Jon(M600BHP)

Thanks m8 i wasnt sure lol

-beefy-

iTrader: (6)

its more for the adjustability factor , it will be running coilovers , i think ill re mock the front end in with the arb , and see whats what ,

how much are bladed arbs if i have to go that route

Jon(M600BHP)

Not to sure on price m8 but i think you can get bladed arbs secondhand for about 250/300 quid. thx Jon

Psycho Warren

iTrader: (5)

Im sure i remember seeing some fancy kit that meant you could run a repositioned std roll bar and compression struts.

dojj

iTrader: (3)

yup, comp struts on the first pic
bladed front mounted arb in the second

the comp struts are easy to find and fit
the arb relocation gubins is pricey and not nearly as common as you would think

someone on here posted up pics of the official cradle gubbins for the front mount, they may be able to give you some more info on it

Mr C

iTrader: (2)

You will require heavy spring poundage to make up for the removal of the ARB and to help stop some body roll so its usually only used on a track car due to the harsh ride on road. More pics of aftermarket front ARBs please, thats a good option for you

Psycho Warren

iTrader: (5)

is the ARB relocation kit not a cheaper and practical way of doing it for a road/occasional track day car???

dojj

iTrader: (3)

you can't use the standard bar mate

it's got to be that drop linked thing with the cradle and the works

Mike1

Just as an aside, I'm sure that Jay, the guy with the extremely fast white 3-door that chased Si B round at Combe in July, said he ran a front mounted ARB. His car certainly seemed to handle well

dojj

iTrader: (3)

if these are your pics, sorry, don'tknow who's they are so someone wil lcome and claim credit for them eventually






looks like you'll need the adjustable tca's with the correct fitments on them to take the drop links too mate

buzznwood

The original group A blade ARB parts for the sierra never used a cross member it was basically the same components front and back, it was attached to the chassis rails using a simple bracket. This is what Jon(M600BHP) from the pics appears to be using.



You'll need to click to see the larger picture, not the best pictures but should give you an idea.

As to if you need the front ARB well as suspension and handling is one of those subjective things and down to personal preference you'll find people running with and without a ARB, now while technically an ARB is bad as it ties both sides of the suspension together with a front strut set up you just can't dial in the same amount of camber change under compression that you can with a double wishbones that typically allows you to get away without an ARB IMO.

wildheart

iTrader: (4)

Im running compression struts,drop links and bladed roll bar.
Got it all from Rally Design.

-beefy-

iTrader: (6)

this is my problem i would like the adjustability of comp struts but not the harshness thaat seems to be associated with them ,

the car will never see a track !!!!!


ill start getting the parts together and mock up the front and rear again ,

go from there ,

andy escos

iTrader: (1)

the pics are from b9 cos (richie)& its just sat in his garage collecting dust the fitment has nothing to do with adjustable tca,s the bladed roll bar bolts into the end of the comp strut set up he,s supposed to be copying the whole set up as well so other peep,s can use it to so i can have a set on my car as well. hes at see for a month or so but pm him when he gets back im sure he,ll help.

RONNIE AMIS

iTrader: (17)

touring car spares do the mounts for the roll bar

http://www.touringcarspares.com/part...cat=susp#thumb

markk

iTrader: (2)

running compression struts does not mean you have to run stupid hard springs at all.

Touring Car Spares

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Ronnie ,we also fit the brackets to your car , modify your track control arms,supply bars, drop link kits , etc..etc...

-beefy-

iTrader: (6)

how much is a set up like that tony ?

would you have to do the welding , or could you give an accurate location when supplying the kit ?

beef

Touring Car Spares

iTrader: (6)

i'd be delighted to just supply mate , welding them on is a pain unless the engines out anyway . the bar is the major expense because theyre made new from spring steel , Scotty sells Blades on e-bay , drop link kits are Ł150 the pair , bars are Ł300 ( yes, i know but its not my price ) alloy bracket sets & bushes are Ł80 ,all plus the vat + carriage . We have a 24 hour delivery on these available , other than the weld on brackets which im waiting to have re-stocked soon . The fitment to chassis is pretty self explanatory , once the blades fitted it establishes where you fit them on to keep the drop link upright .

-beefy-

iTrader: (6)

so around 550 for the kit ?

and then id need modded adj tca's and a "blade "


is this correct fella

Touring Car Spares

iTrader: (6)

yup , pair of blades that is , and the weld on brackets .

jacko

thats actially not allot for what you get and looks like a far better way of doing it than the wrc type

righthooker

you have answered your own question beey , you dont need it, spend the money else where dude, you wont see a track anyhow and on the road it would just spoil it imo

jacko

im with clive on this to be honest beef

it wouldnt make a nice road car

-beefy-

iTrader: (6)

im just thinking if i need the adjustability jack .

or you reckon a set of adj tcas and some adj top mounts will be enough ,


?

righthooker

why would you need to adjust it mate , your not setting up for diferent conditions tracks ect, spend it where you need it











































suspension is where your at lol

jacko

tca,s and top mounts will be fine

clive his car wont drive like a cosworth and will need the adjustabuility to make it right but he wont need wrc stuff

-beefy-

iTrader: (6)

what he said

andrewg

any coilover and comp strut with uprated spring without going stupidly stiff will give less roll than standard springs and arb,,get them on then worry about it!! then if you feel it rolls you can go that way,

jacko

its going to be a bufty road car lol not realy much point in making it track set up cos it will never see the track

out of curiousity has the focus got an atb as i cant remember

markk

iTrader: (2)

the front WRC item mounts to the front crossmember, how does this make this system beter than a WRC item ?



I ran no roll bars at all on my last car for 10 years or so

jacko

far better for a road car as in an easier way of doing it aspecialy as beefys car is a mk4 escort with r wheel drive and would have no where for a wrc type to go