The atlas or baby atlas axle
#1
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PassionFord Post Troll
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The atlas or baby atlas axle
Can anyone give me any info on these
I am after some info on what kind of power they can handle diff wise
What car were they originaly fitted to etc etc
Or would a ford 9" be better for track and santa pod?
Your thoughts please
I am after some info on what kind of power they can handle diff wise
What car were they originaly fitted to etc etc
Or would a ford 9" be better for track and santa pod?
Your thoughts please
#2
the atlas comes in many differant forms, with many stages of modifications, the best being (as you would expect) the most expensive, fully floating twin taper.
to be honoust they are not the best, the design is very old and alot of the parts are remade still but can be substandard, if your car is has good torque and your going to be using sticky tyres for launching constantly then this is not for you.
have a look at some of the sellholm/tractive axles. or even better make it more modern - independant
to be honoust they are not the best, the design is very old and alot of the parts are remade still but can be substandard, if your car is has good torque and your going to be using sticky tyres for launching constantly then this is not for you.
have a look at some of the sellholm/tractive axles. or even better make it more modern - independant
#3
The atlas and baby are the same axle just differant lenths,and they can cope with serious power, nearly all the cosworth powered escorts run a atlas,ring tom at http://www.fostek.co.uk/ hes the man to talk to, if your doing a lot of drag racing and your going to be running massive wide slicks then a 9" would be better but they are very heavy and ive heard parts are hard to get
As far as indepentant goes its been done loads and its never been any better than a live axle,i know ricky hutch has a full bmw rear set up on his mk2 escort and it was having trouble with it and was thinking about going back to a live axle
As far as indepentant goes its been done loads and its never been any better than a live axle,i know ricky hutch has a full bmw rear set up on his mk2 escort and it was having trouble with it and was thinking about going back to a live axle
#4
i've a atlas in mine with a 2.8i lsd been fine with no probs but i'm only running 330bhp they are very strong tho don't Kevin with the red mk2 have good power and run a atlas??
Paul
Paul
#6
But the 9" will sap a lot of power to drive it. There are other alternatives, that are almost as strong, but more efficient.
The GM 12 bolt, The Ford 8.8" and perhaps some of the DANA offerings.
The 8.8" is working fine for me.
Also look into which axle offers the best selection of ratios
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#9
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What to do what to do ????
Im not having any trouble with the Hilux axle but fu** me is it heavy
As the car is having a revamp im thinking of upgrading the axle but which one
I want to do some pod and track days so need a compromise on the two
I also want to lose some weight out of the car
Im on a diet but i dont think that will help much
Im not having any trouble with the Hilux axle but fu** me is it heavy
As the car is having a revamp im thinking of upgrading the axle but which one
I want to do some pod and track days so need a compromise on the two
I also want to lose some weight out of the car
Im on a diet but i dont think that will help much
#10
yo yo darren ah kid
do what we use to do with the old mk1 mk2 escorts with V8's in them
get a ford mustang axle 9" or the 8.8" and shorten it
we never broke them at all built proof
strong as fook these axle and there loads of ratios available for them aswell
marco
#11
If you want to save weight, here is an example of one option ( based in the US, although Im sure there are UK sources too who could fabricate )
This one is based around the 9" stuff. Its a fully fabricated rear axle.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/gears-...-new-pics.html
Although the basic Ford 9" housing isnt too heavy anyway I think, and would probably be more than adequate.
There is lots of good info and links within that site.
Some Moser based offerings.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/gears-...ance-plus.html
Again, whilst these are primarly aimed at Camaro's, obviously they can be custom built to fit pretty much anything.
Or for info on the Ford US stuff,
http://forums.corral.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=303
If your budget stretches, there are so many options really.
I ended up with an 8.8", I modified the housing to the width I wanted myself. Im using Mark Williams 31 spline shafts and a Ford Racing Torsen diff.
Moser shafts are a lot cheaper, but I twisted their 31's although they would probably work fine on your car.
That said...I did run multiple low 10's with their 28's too before they twisted. So maybe there are quality control issues as well.
This one is based around the 9" stuff. Its a fully fabricated rear axle.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/gears-...-new-pics.html
Although the basic Ford 9" housing isnt too heavy anyway I think, and would probably be more than adequate.
There is lots of good info and links within that site.
Some Moser based offerings.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/gears-...ance-plus.html
Again, whilst these are primarly aimed at Camaro's, obviously they can be custom built to fit pretty much anything.
Or for info on the Ford US stuff,
http://forums.corral.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=303
If your budget stretches, there are so many options really.
I ended up with an 8.8", I modified the housing to the width I wanted myself. Im using Mark Williams 31 spline shafts and a Ford Racing Torsen diff.
Moser shafts are a lot cheaper, but I twisted their 31's although they would probably work fine on your car.
That said...I did run multiple low 10's with their 28's too before they twisted. So maybe there are quality control issues as well.
#12
Summit even sell complete new assemblies. Although given you'd want to have drive flanges to suit your wheels etc....it may be better to buy a used unit and build from there.
Or just take the hit and upgrade from new
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P.../?keyword=axle
Or just take the hit and upgrade from new
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P.../?keyword=axle
#14
Mine is bloody heavy. The centre section is cast iron, and the tubes are fairly thick.
The 9" basic uses a pressed steel housing. It also benefits from a removable centre section, which would make ratio swaps easier. Normally this is cast iron, but you can get alloy ones.
If you contacted some of the axle fab shops, they could give you weights etc.
GM 12 bolt would be similar to my 8.8" I think in design, although maybe a little lighter. Both are apparently a lot more efficient than the 9" though, so would sap less power to drive.
The 9" basic uses a pressed steel housing. It also benefits from a removable centre section, which would make ratio swaps easier. Normally this is cast iron, but you can get alloy ones.
If you contacted some of the axle fab shops, they could give you weights etc.
GM 12 bolt would be similar to my 8.8" I think in design, although maybe a little lighter. Both are apparently a lot more efficient than the 9" though, so would sap less power to drive.
#16
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Mine is bloody heavy. The centre section is cast iron, and the tubes are fairly thick.
The 9" basic uses a pressed steel housing. It also benefits from a removable centre section, which would make ratio swaps easier. Normally this is cast iron, but you can get alloy ones.
If you contacted some of the axle fab shops, they could give you weights etc.
GM 12 bolt would be similar to my 8.8" I think in design, although maybe a little lighter. Both are apparently a lot more efficient than the 9" though, so would sap less power to drive.
The 9" basic uses a pressed steel housing. It also benefits from a removable centre section, which would make ratio swaps easier. Normally this is cast iron, but you can get alloy ones.
If you contacted some of the axle fab shops, they could give you weights etc.
GM 12 bolt would be similar to my 8.8" I think in design, although maybe a little lighter. Both are apparently a lot more efficient than the 9" though, so would sap less power to drive.
Is it possible to get them over here ?
My axle i havnt weigh it but with it fully built with brakes took 2 of us to lift it off the bench
I tried to lift it onto the bench my self and it was impossible even putting one end on at a time
No wonder they could not destroy the Hilux on top gear i think its made out of armour plate
Cheers Puddy will have a chat
He does the 8.8" axles ?
Last edited by Alg1k; 03-08-2009 at 01:06 AM.
#17
Need to source an 8.8" then
Is it possible to get them over here ?
My axle i havnt weigh it but with it fully built with brakes took 2 of us to lift it off the bench
I tried to lift it onto the bench my self and it was impossible even putting one end on at a time
No wonder they could not destroy the Hilux on top gear i think its made out of armour plate
Cheers Puddy will have a chat
He does the 8.8" axles ?
Is it possible to get them over here ?
My axle i havnt weigh it but with it fully built with brakes took 2 of us to lift it off the bench
I tried to lift it onto the bench my self and it was impossible even putting one end on at a time
No wonder they could not destroy the Hilux on top gear i think its made out of armour plate
Cheers Puddy will have a chat
He does the 8.8" axles ?
puddy
#18
Daz, Chad runs a very simikar setup to this on his stock cars
he has them bult buy a company called RCD, they use the cast diff housing, cut off the cast tubes and weld on fabricated tubes to your length/spec, with torque arms, compliant links, output shaft etc as required
he has them bult buy a company called RCD, they use the cast diff housing, cut off the cast tubes and weld on fabricated tubes to your length/spec, with torque arms, compliant links, output shaft etc as required
#19
Andy Robinson can build you a fully fabbed axle like in the pic too. I seen one he did on a guys Porsche. Expensive I'd imagine though.
Not sure if the 8.8" comes in anything here in the UK. But Im sure any of the people who deal with US parts suppliers could get some used ones cheap to start work with.
I'd have preferred the 9", purely for ease of ratio swaps. But at its current spec, the 8.8 is working fine.
You can opt for larger shafts with a 9" ie 33spline or more, which you cant with the 8.8"
But at 33, there are virtually no LSD offerings, its nearly all spools. You dont want that, they're bloody horrible.
Not sure if the 8.8" comes in anything here in the UK. But Im sure any of the people who deal with US parts suppliers could get some used ones cheap to start work with.
I'd have preferred the 9", purely for ease of ratio swaps. But at its current spec, the 8.8 is working fine.
You can opt for larger shafts with a 9" ie 33spline or more, which you cant with the 8.8"
But at 33, there are virtually no LSD offerings, its nearly all spools. You dont want that, they're bloody horrible.
#20
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PassionFord Post Troll
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Daz, Chad runs a very simikar setup to this on his stock cars
he has them bult buy a company called RCD, they use the cast diff housing, cut off the cast tubes and weld on fabricated tubes to your length/spec, with torque arms, compliant links, output shaft etc as required
he has them bult buy a company called RCD, they use the cast diff housing, cut off the cast tubes and weld on fabricated tubes to your length/spec, with torque arms, compliant links, output shaft etc as required
Must find RCD and get a quote
#21
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Andy Robinson can build you a fully fabbed axle like in the pic too. I seen one he did on a guys Porsche. Expensive I'd imagine though.
Not sure if the 8.8" comes in anything here in the UK. But Im sure any of the people who deal with US parts suppliers could get some used ones cheap to start work with.
I'd have preferred the 9", purely for ease of ratio swaps. But at its current spec, the 8.8 is working fine.
You can opt for larger shafts with a 9" ie 33spline or more, which you cant with the 8.8"
But at 33, there are virtually no LSD offerings, its nearly all spools. You dont want that, they're bloody horrible.
Not sure if the 8.8" comes in anything here in the UK. But Im sure any of the people who deal with US parts suppliers could get some used ones cheap to start work with.
I'd have preferred the 9", purely for ease of ratio swaps. But at its current spec, the 8.8 is working fine.
You can opt for larger shafts with a 9" ie 33spline or more, which you cant with the 8.8"
But at 33, there are virtually no LSD offerings, its nearly all spools. You dont want that, they're bloody horrible.
#22
Honestly no idea.
Obviously with 9" parts, you can use a pressed steel case, or a fully fabbed case with alloy centre piece for the diff unit, which will undoubtedly be lighter.
With the 8.8" or GM 12 bolt, you're stuck with the heavy steel/cast casing, and not much you can do to lighten it I think.
Just depends how much money that weight reduction costs.
Some also say the pinned tubes in the fixed types like mine are a weakness. They weld the tubes to the centre, and some add braces too.
I DIY welded mine, although I never experienced any problems with the pins just. My crappy welding has probably weakened it if anything lol
I wouldnt actually say my casing is overly heavy. But the diff itself is heavy, the CWP is heavy, the shafts are heavy lol.
But thats gona apply to them all.
Obviously with 9" parts, you can use a pressed steel case, or a fully fabbed case with alloy centre piece for the diff unit, which will undoubtedly be lighter.
With the 8.8" or GM 12 bolt, you're stuck with the heavy steel/cast casing, and not much you can do to lighten it I think.
Just depends how much money that weight reduction costs.
Some also say the pinned tubes in the fixed types like mine are a weakness. They weld the tubes to the centre, and some add braces too.
I DIY welded mine, although I never experienced any problems with the pins just. My crappy welding has probably weakened it if anything lol
I wouldnt actually say my casing is overly heavy. But the diff itself is heavy, the CWP is heavy, the shafts are heavy lol.
But thats gona apply to them all.
#23
hi daz
if you want me to ask the twins ill will galdy do so , they know where to get the axles from .... as my mate he fits these axles to the Mazda Rx7's with the tunned lS1 engines in them
marco
if you want me to ask the twins ill will galdy do so , they know where to get the axles from .... as my mate he fits these axles to the Mazda Rx7's with the tunned lS1 engines in them
marco
#24
some 8.8" setups in this thread
http://forums.corral.net/forums/show...ght=axle+brace
http://forums.corral.net/forums/show...ght=axle+brace
http://forums.corral.net/forums/show...ght=axle+brace
http://forums.corral.net/forums/show...ght=axle+brace
#25
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Honestly no idea.
Obviously with 9" parts, you can use a pressed steel case, or a fully fabbed case with alloy centre piece for the diff unit, which will undoubtedly be lighter.
With the 8.8" or GM 12 bolt, you're stuck with the heavy steel/cast casing, and not much you can do to lighten it I think.
Just depends how much money that weight reduction costs.
Some also say the pinned tubes in the fixed types like mine are a weakness. They weld the tubes to the centre, and some add braces too.
I DIY welded mine, although I never experienced any problems with the pins just. My crappy welding has probably weakened it if anything lol
I wouldnt actually say my casing is overly heavy. But the diff itself is heavy, the CWP is heavy, the shafts are heavy lol.
But thats gona apply to them all.
Obviously with 9" parts, you can use a pressed steel case, or a fully fabbed case with alloy centre piece for the diff unit, which will undoubtedly be lighter.
With the 8.8" or GM 12 bolt, you're stuck with the heavy steel/cast casing, and not much you can do to lighten it I think.
Just depends how much money that weight reduction costs.
Some also say the pinned tubes in the fixed types like mine are a weakness. They weld the tubes to the centre, and some add braces too.
I DIY welded mine, although I never experienced any problems with the pins just. My crappy welding has probably weakened it if anything lol
I wouldnt actually say my casing is overly heavy. But the diff itself is heavy, the CWP is heavy, the shafts are heavy lol.
But thats gona apply to them all.
The reason im being so anal is that im building another car and need it to be as light
and as reliable as poss
The old Dolomite was let down with weight
Perhaps i will have to use one of these heaveeeey axles and just live with the extra weight
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